Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Layout Room Questions

6581 views
37 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Morristown, NJ
  • 808 posts
Posted by nealknows on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 10:24 PM

BigDaddy

I use lag bolts screwed into T-nuts, what are you calling leg levelers?

Thanks

Henry, these are flat furniture leg levelers sold in HD. They come 4 to a pack and I use the T-nuts to hold them in the wood legs. I'm traveling so I can't get you the name of them. In Home Depot they're down the aisle that has all of the chair and furniture leg protectors. Sorry I don't have the name. Made not to scratch the floor. 

Message me here and when I return next week I can get you the manfacturer..

Neal

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • 1,500 posts
Posted by ROBERT PETRICK on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 6:35 PM

2. Lighting

Having light fixtures follow the track plan is a good idea . . . but, the ceiling lights will be installed first (presumably), and once installed they will become hard fixed points that will be difficult to change if you change the track plan.

I made a mistake and did not give enough thought to placement of lights relative to a skyboard scene divider on the Wind River Canyon peninsula of my layout. I installed track lighting with 14 wide-dispersion LED spotlights, but there were too many strong shadows I couldn't eliminate (even with movable fixtures), so I removed the scene divider. I'm satisfied with the results, but it could have been worse. 

Good luck.

Robert 

LINK to SNSR Blog


  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: East Central Florida
  • 480 posts
Posted by Onewolf on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 6:33 PM

1) Flooring - I went with 2x2 "random" carpet tiles because they were the least expensive flooring option that are 'easy' on the feet. They are also easy to replace should an ugly accident occur.

2) Lighting - You need to think about room lighting for construction and layout lighting as two separate systems.  I went with 4ft T8 flourescent fixtures for room lighting which is quite bright. I am using 2835LED strips for layout lighting.

3) I painted my backdrop directly on the drywall and used 1/8" masonite to cove the backdrop corners.

Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.

- Photo album of layout construction -

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 5:40 PM

nealknows
I have two peninsulas. Also the legs on the layout have adjustable leg levelers and not the lag bolts others use.

I use lag bolts screwed into T-nuts, what are you calling leg levelers?

Thanks

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Morristown, NJ
  • 808 posts
Posted by nealknows on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 5:29 PM

Hi,

I would take into consideration a couple things. First, how are you accessing the room, from inside the garage or thru your house? I ask this so you should keep in your mind that when it comes time to move and sell the house, the room you're adding gives value to the house.

Also, if you are adding value to the house, put down a laminate or hardwood floor. I did just that and around the walking area of the layout are the square rubber/foam pads you can buy at Harbor Freight or Home Depot. Very reasonable, no need to glue them down and the room is intact. I have two peninsulas. Also the legs on the layout have adjustable leg levelers and not the lag bolts others use. 

I finished the room we added to the house with sheetrock and painted it white. I'm adding flats around most of the room and printed backdrops. When it comes time to tear it down to move (or worse), some spackle and paint will put the room in pristine condition.

As for lights, I put in high hats in rows with CFL lights. Very cost efficient. I didn't make mine dimmable, but with the new LED bulbs out, anything can be done.

I did all this to add value when the tme comes to get out of the place.

Good luck!

Neal

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 5:28 PM

For the lighting in or attached track, to a dropped ceiling, you shouldn't have any problems just running the track and drop in the panels when finished. Some do perfer to use a flowing upper valance the follows the benchwork. That is more your choice for final asthetics of your RR. When you layout the ceiling grid, you may want to consider the rough footprint of the layout as to have most of the ceiling tiles positioned to work better with the lightininstallation as well as looks; ie. recessed landing on a grid and have to skew off installed position to work. 

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 5:07 PM

I went with 2’ x 2’ carpet tiles after I finished my basic layout construction.  They are easy to clean and look good on the floor.  If you want to do some heavy work after words they come up easily.
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
  
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Southeast Texas
  • 5,449 posts
Posted by mobilman44 on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 4:56 PM

Hi,

I can comment on 1 & 3, but not # 2..........

The flooring is gonna get a lot of traffic and abuse during construction.  I would suggest linoleum as it is easy to clean and will withstand a lot of wear.  After the layout is up and running, then I would get some carpeting and cut in around the benchwork.

Assuming the layout room walls are vertical, I would put the backdrop directly on the walls.  However, for corners I would get 1/8 inch masonite and bend to form a curve at those locations.

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

  • Member since
    October 2017
  • 14 posts
Layout Room Questions
Posted by MGAMike on Wednesday, May 9, 2018 11:08 AM
Hi There!!  I am going to be building a room (second story of garage) dedicated for my new model railroad.  I have a few questions regarding some of the characteristics of the room I would like to get your options on.

1.       Flooring – What type of flooring should I use?  I have been reading about using interlocking rubber or foam mats.  Would carpet or laminate be better?

2.       Lighting – Since I am planning to install dimmable recessed lighting in a suspended ceiling in a pattern to match that of the track plan and layout footprint, is it necessary to build a valance?

3.       Backdrop – The layout will be an around-the-walls shelf layout with a center peninsula.  Should I put the backdrop directly on wall of the room on the finished drywall, or include a separate dedicated hardboard for the backdrop?

Thanks in advance for you help!!

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!