Can anyone advise me on how i should lay track and fix it to foam board with no underlay.From what i have learned so far is that industrial layouts do not have underlay so how would i fix the track directlly to the foam.Do i glue it permantlly or do i simply just pin it down.I have searched youtube for a demonstration but they all refer to mainline using cork or foam.
In railroad lingo, the term is not "underlay" but roadbed and it´s true that sidings, passing tracks, yards and industrial spurs usually do not have a built-up roadbed like the mainline.
To simulate that, you should be fine just fixing the track to your foam base.
I put a thin layer of Liquid nails then when you put some Ballest and white glue it's set.
Yes, you'll need to use an adhesive. You won't have much luck with pins, spikes or other such mechnical fasteners holding in foam.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I put down sheet cork from AC Moore, but I'm not sure there is a big advantage to that. Ken Patterson, a prolific you tuber, doesn't use cork at all, anywhere.
I would paint the foam first, because I don't want to see any pink or purple ever again. Any cheap latex paint from Home Depot in an earth or grass tone will do. Look in the bin where they have premixed paint that's been returned.
You may need longer pins or T-pins to hold the track while the caulk or glue dries. MR uses caulk, others use liquid nails. You don't want it so thick it oozes up between the ties. Keep it away from moving parts of the turnout. Some people don't glue the turnout at all.
Sight down the length of the track to make sure it is straight.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
When yo use adhesive caulk to adhere the track directly to the "subroadbed" foam (you really aren't using "roadbed" in the traditional sense), you can use full soup cans, veggie cans, etc. laid on their side if you dont want to buy T pins.
I once used a quart paint can that was lying around and learned the hard way about lids not being well secured. But then I also discovered that a good amount of latex paint behaves a lot like latex caulk. It held the track plenty well until more permanently secured with glued ballast.
- Douglas
Tanks everyone a great help as always.Im going to go with either liquid nails or caulk.This may be a silly question but can i lay the track then fit point motors or do i need to cut a square out off the foam and insert a base board to connect the point motors too.
I have used caulk and it works just fine, spread a very thin layer as you don't want excess caulk coming up between the ties. Ballast will secure it permanentl.
If you ever need to remove the track once caulked just slide a putty knife under the track and it will come up fine.
track nails can be used to hold the track in place and prevent it moving side to side, I too use cans to hold it down while dryin.
Andy110675 can i lay the track then fit point motors or do i need to cut a square out off the foam and insert a base board to connect the point motors too.
You at least need a hole big enough for the throw arm of the switch machine to travel. A tortoise can mounted below the foam. Other machines, I dunno.
Please don't spend a lot of money on the more expensive adhesives. A cheap acrylic latex caulk spready very thinly will do a good job keeping your rails in place.
What I do to keep heavier weights from deforming the tracks or their underlying support material is to use a 3' lath or furring strip, place it along the tops of the rails, and weight it. The lath will not deform as easily as extruded foam will, so the rails will be nice 'n level to the extent that they can still get a purchase on the underlying caulking spread below them.
I cant make up my mind if i should use the foam or remove it and lay down some 12mm plywood and use the foam for scenery.
How thick is your foam?
My foam is 50mm
50mm gives you enough room to do some ditches and mild landscaping. Some people try to go with much thinner foam and needs more support than what you are using.
I am looking to be able to move my layout one day, so the foam is a big advantage in weight. However people have been building layouts on 4x8 plywood for years, so there is no wrong answer.
Rebuilt my layout today with a ladder frame in a U shape then used plywood top throughout.I feel more comfortable using ply rather than the foam top,it is in two pieces down the length rather than numerous pieces of foam stuck together.I went for 12mm pre finished ply and i am happy with the result of a clean crisp smooth finish throughout the build and unesecarry carving off the foam board to introduce turnout platforms to attach motors too.I am happy with the results so far and will keep you posted on my progress.Going on abit but its Friday night and im abit tippsy
Hello all,
I second the use of caulk. I use silicone caulk.
The GE clear silicone I or II is what I use. The difference between the two is the II has a quicker curing time.
If using without roadbed I would mark the outside edges of the track on the foam and then mask off with blue painters tape.
Then I would lay down a bead of silicone caulk on the center line on the foam. Then, with a plastic putty knife, I would spread the caulk thinly between the masked area.
Press the track in place and weight down until the caulk cures- -I wait 24-hours.
The advantage of using silicone caulk is that the track can be pulled up without damaging the foam.
I use silicone caulk under my roadbed and have repositioned the roadbed even after the caulk has fully cured.
I simply pulled up the roadbed and rubbed the caulk off of the foam and the roadbed with no damage to either.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Ive gone for plywood finish now so will i now need some kind of raodbed.
Andy110675 My foam is 50mm
That works out to a hair under 2 inches. ????
selector My foam is 50mm That works out to a hair under 2 inches. ????
My foam is 50mm That works out to a hair under 2 inches. ????
1.9685 inches, Seinfeld had an episode about shrinkage
Not using foam now i have gone for a plywood top so will i now need a roadbed and if so what would you suggest and what thickness.Sorry for all the questions but i have never done this before.
5-7 mm thick would be plenty. As I suggested earlier, phone around and ask hardware stores if they sell cork underlay from an open roll. If so, you'd only need maybe two or three feet of the 1/4" thick cork. Then, using a sharp utility knife and a 4' straight-edge, you cut strips about an inch wide and glue them into place.
Thanks for the info as well. I think the best is combination of thin plywood and foam. My last layout was built 20 years ago with just plywood and foam.
While the OP has switched to ply, for anyone else still checking this thread for advice on gluing track to foam, I used carpenter's glue and even plain old white glue throughout my unscenicked staging yard and both types have held very well for a decade now. I've also used those glues to hold track to cork roadbed with only a few minor glitches over time. That may be the absolute cheapest, easiest way to go, although if I had to do it over I might use silicone caulk instead, as I like the idea of being able to remove the adhesive residue without damaging the foam surface if you ever want to peel up and relay the track for some reason. I've also "heard" that old white glue can dissolve if it gets soaked in the process of applying ballast or other 'wet' scenery work nearby - but I've ballasted and completed scenery on 15-20 linear feet of layout so far and haven't had this happen to me yet.
FYI, it's 25.4 mm to the inch.
If my track has no underlay in the industrial area how would i add underlay as the track moves outward into the mountains and what depth of underlay should i use.Do i just start with a thin cork underlay then thicken it as it heads out?