RR_MelAnother vote for Acrylic
Wiki says they are ALL the same. In the motorcycle windscreen world (and small aircraft) they ARE NOT and it is a hot button. The concern there, is does it turn to sharp shards as you pass through it. There is said to be much false advertising.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Thank you very much for the suggestions, this will help us alot.
I followed a MR article in early 2012, which described how to make a panel with a piece of sheet aluminum. I'll have to check, think it was 11/64". I Googled a supplier, where you just order the exact dimensions you want. I think it was about $15, plus shipping. Worth it to me as the project took some time and was easy with the aluminum.
I drew my schematic on graph paper and used that to mark the turnout and indicating LED spots needed to be, then drilled the holes. Then primed it and painted it white. Then drew my diagram on the white and used pinstriping to mask the track schematic, then painted black, making a white track diagram. The DPDTs fit in readily, and I used one of the 2-piece LED holders as an insert for the LEDs, which simply force fit into same. I sprayed a coat of semi-gloss clear over it when done, wiping off the LEDs and toggle handles. I also modified it successfully, easier with additions than deletions; i.e., I did not need to fill any unneeded holes.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I think, but do not know for a fact, that acrylic sheets are less prone to cracking. Worth looking into.
Polystyrene sheets are pretty cheap, I think I paid around $26 for a 4x8. Glue that to a piece of masonite and you have solved your roughness around holes in hardboard.
Your son is correct. However back in 1978 I picked up a 2x12 piece of smoked plexiglass for $5.00. This was part of a IBM computer trade show exhibit. It is still in use today with hundreds of holes drilled, mini toggle switches mounted, and Atlas electronic control devices mounted. As I remember use a very sharp bit, start out slow, let the bit do the work, apply minimal pressure. One of the first holes I drilled in this did result in a crack in the plastic which is camoflauged with a 9"x12" PRR metal sign. It is mounted vertically to the 2x4 bench work. I use Dymo label maker to identify the many switches. If changes are made, these labels can be removed easily. Holes for both wire to pass through and mounting Atlas electronic components with miniature brass wood screws have been drilled successfully. Plexiglass has served me well for 38 years and now resides on my second and final layout. Give it a try and best of luck
I am making a new control panel. I want to control all powered turnouts from one location. I will have 30 toggle switches which need 1/4 " holes and 60 LED lights that need 3/16" holes. My facia is hardboard but it doesn't make real clean holes.
I haven't determined the exact size yet, probably about 16x20 or 16x24. I thought of dark plexiglass but my son says it is to easy to shatter when drilling holes.
Thanks for any suggestions.