I am making a new control panel. I want to control all powered turnouts from one location. I will have 30 toggle switches which need 1/4 " holes and 60 LED lights that need 3/16" holes. My facia is hardboard but it doesn't make real clean holes.
I haven't determined the exact size yet, probably about 16x20 or 16x24. I thought of dark plexiglass but my son says it is to easy to shatter when drilling holes.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Your son is correct. However back in 1978 I picked up a 2x12 piece of smoked plexiglass for $5.00. This was part of a IBM computer trade show exhibit. It is still in use today with hundreds of holes drilled, mini toggle switches mounted, and Atlas electronic control devices mounted. As I remember use a very sharp bit, start out slow, let the bit do the work, apply minimal pressure. One of the first holes I drilled in this did result in a crack in the plastic which is camoflauged with a 9"x12" PRR metal sign. It is mounted vertically to the 2x4 bench work. I use Dymo label maker to identify the many switches. If changes are made, these labels can be removed easily. Holes for both wire to pass through and mounting Atlas electronic components with miniature brass wood screws have been drilled successfully. Plexiglass has served me well for 38 years and now resides on my second and final layout. Give it a try and best of luck
I think, but do not know for a fact, that acrylic sheets are less prone to cracking. Worth looking into.
Polystyrene sheets are pretty cheap, I think I paid around $26 for a 4x8. Glue that to a piece of masonite and you have solved your roughness around holes in hardboard.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I followed a MR article in early 2012, which described how to make a panel with a piece of sheet aluminum. I'll have to check, think it was 11/64". I Googled a supplier, where you just order the exact dimensions you want. I think it was about $15, plus shipping. Worth it to me as the project took some time and was easy with the aluminum.
I drew my schematic on graph paper and used that to mark the turnout and indicating LED spots needed to be, then drilled the holes. Then primed it and painted it white. Then drew my diagram on the white and used pinstriping to mask the track schematic, then painted black, making a white track diagram. The DPDTs fit in readily, and I used one of the 2-piece LED holders as an insert for the LEDs, which simply force fit into same. I sprayed a coat of semi-gloss clear over it when done, wiping off the LEDs and toggle handles. I also modified it successfully, easier with additions than deletions; i.e., I did not need to fill any unneeded holes.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Thank you very much for the suggestions, this will help us alot.
RR_MelAnother vote for Acrylic
Wiki says they are ALL the same. In the motorcycle windscreen world (and small aircraft) they ARE NOT and it is a hot button. The concern there, is does it turn to sharp shards as you pass through it. There is said to be much false advertising.
BigDaddyWiki says they are ALL the same.
Unless you are talking about polycarbonate, which goes under the trade names of Lexan® Makrolon® and others. I worked with lots of this stuff making guards and shatterproof shields.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
I was fortunate to be able to have the scraps to use on the model RR. It makes excellent edge guarding so rolling stock doesn't fall to the floor. You can bend it cold, I have even made 90° bends using a sheet metal brake. It is easy to sand and cut using woodworking tools (at slower feeds).
Some larger home center stores will have polycarbonate.
Plexiglas® is Acrylic. It will snap and splinter like a dry chicken bone. Not the same stuff.
Polycarbonate is used for FRA glazing on railroad equipment to stop rocks (and some bullets).
I have had great success in making panels out of polycarbonate.
Good luck, Ed
Hi williamsb
I make my control panels out of aluminium sheet.
I paint it light blue like the local signal panels I use coloured auto pin stripe.
To represent the track using dk blue and yellow for the up track brown green for down track and black for what would be un Ctt sidings in the real world.
All switches are put in the track markings exept lights and ones that don't directly apply to train runing these are in a neat row and marked with use at the base of the pannel.
The colours where chosen on the basis that's what the real railways use where I live, and it stands out from the boriing grey colour I use for facia boards.
I also think its a nice finishing touch if the panels look something like a real signal panel.
Just make sure what ever you decide to do its neat tidy and easy to follow
regards John
I use Lexan which is available in different size sheets at Home Depot and other big box stores.
I start with a pilot hole using a very small drill bit, then move to a reamer to finish the hole. No cracks, no fuss.
Rich
Alton Junction
williamsbI am making a new control panel. I want to control all powered turnouts from one location. I will have 30 toggle switches which need 1/4 " holes and 60 LED lights that need 3/16" holes. My facia is hardboard but it doesn't make real clean holes.
To get clean holes drilled in hardboard, I assume you're referring to tempered hardboard, aka, Masonite, put a piece of wood (2x4 or 1x4) underneath when drilling.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Hardboard will work, that's what I make mine out of.
I'm not big on fancy panels, I just need functional. Be sure to use tempered hardboard. It's not mushy like the untempered.
Another trick is to drill the hole slightly undersized for the intended object that fills it. Then use a tapered ream to open the hole to the exact size needed. This will give you nice smooth edges.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I have used a piece of laminated masonite of the back of on old cupboard cut to size...
Cheap and practicle...:)
Cheers...
Chris from down under...
We're all here because we're not all there...
I used .08" aluminum for my panels that I got from a sign shop and they cut it to size for me. It comes painted on both sides with white enamel. I like it because it is easier to drill than Plexiglas and it won't shatter or split at the holes (you really need special drills for acrylic; don't remember what tip angle it is?). It is very strong and could actually be used to carry power to the LED's if you wanted. I had my large panel (Harmon Yard as shown) printed at a local print shop (did artwork in Corel Draw) as it was too big for my home printer. I cemented it to the aluminum and then drilled all the holes. I spray mine with Dulcote for some additional protection but could have used a clear laminate film also. My smaller panels I print at home and use the same procedure but laminate with the clear film before drilling the holes.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
For a smaller control panel I did something very simple. Made the track diagram on MS Paint. Had it printed and laminated at Staples then glued it to 1/8" thick plywood and drilled and mounted my toggles that control Tortoises. Very simple and effective.
Mark
I didn't need fancy, I needed functional. I used 1/8" masonite as I added my own schmatic made out of auto pin stripe tape, mini push buttons to control switches and rotary switches to control the signals for the interlocking panels.
Neal
Mine is functional and somewhat fancy. I used tempered masonite for my board and has many holes for switches and lights. My DC layout has 10 blocks with two cabs. The mini toggles are used for cab selection. It also has two 3mm LED's per switch that indicate which cab is selected. Additionally, I have toggles in staging and at my engine servicing facility where the tracks can be turned on/off independent of the blocks that these areas are located in. So, I have 40 holes in a 7" x 18" piece of tempered masonite, not to mention the 10 holes for the screws that go through to the mounting frame - - no rough edges left from drilling. I first painted the entire board white. I too used auto pin striping to apply the track schematic, then painted the entire board gloss black. I then pulled the tape off, drilled the holes for the toggles and lights. I used decals to label the toggles/blocks, as well as town locations. As a finishing touch, I used some 3/4" leters to identify the railroad itself. After labeling, I sprayed the entire board with a clear gloss coat.
What took the longest was soldering all those tabs (seemed like it took an eternity), then splicing wire onto the wire that is connected to the cabs and track that all runs through an easy to access (behind a removable fascia panel) terminal board. Additionally, the back of the control panel can be accessed easily as well. It is mounted on hinges located at the bottom, so it can be opened so as to swing out flat.
It is worth it, as I now have an easy to operate, easy to control railroad with a control panel that is easy on the eyes.
I used shatter-proof Lexan plastic...the kind used for replacement windows. Left protective covering on both sides when drilling and used carbide drill bits that have a small starting hole tip built into the bit. Used My drill press set at 1000rpm...any further touch-up, was done with a rat tail file, I have many sizes and prefer that over a reamer for doing that. After holes were drilled, everything test fit, I removed the protective coating on both sides, washed both sides and sprayed two coats of original equipment black Automotive paint on the inside of panel. Mounted to piano hinges and installed all controls. At time pic's were taken, panel was really dirty, had been doing a lot of things......the panels are really shiny! I have three of them, the one in pic' is 25yrs old.
Take Care!
Frank
BTW: I run DC....
What ever material You decide on, just make sure It is not so thick that it will effect mounting Your controls with a lock nut/hardware. I used all sub-minniature 6amp toggles and pilot lights and some 10amp switches, so the material I used could not be very thick. I believe that Aluminum sheet or Lexan sheet would be about the best......but that is My opinion. I have used Electrical circuit panel steel boxes in the past, but I had some on hand...they aren't cheap.
My panels above have 120vac in them for the power transformers...so I had to account for that also.....I don't believe in wall warts for that.
I used black Delrin sheets sold by McMaster-Carr. Very sturdy and shatterproof.
I used Lexan along with a bit made specifically for drilling in plastics. Has a different angle on the tip and I have never had a sheet break on me.
Another option. I designed my board on my computer including where I wanted to drill holes then I took the file (as a PDF) to my local printing shop who printed it out on a vinyl sheet. The sheet was a peal and stick but it goes on wet like a decal so you can slide it around to get it in position. They told me to spray the Lexan with Windex then apply the vinyl, rub out the bubbles and let it dry. Worked great!
Paul D
N scale Washita and Santa Fe RailroadSouthern Oklahoma circa late 70's
PED,
Without the Windex trick, putting the graphic's on this 1/8 scale RC truck, would have been near impossible...especially the flames, which are eight pieces and they are not pre-cut...You have to cut them out...LOL. I built it for one of My Grandson's last summer...It's a Lexan clear polycarbonate body...that also had to be cut-out.
Whenever I need plexiglass for any project -- My LHS (Local Hardware Store) cuts it to the exact dimensions provided. They handed out a wise hole-drilling tip = Place a wood-scrap behind (and up against) where you are drilling where there will then be a complete absence of plexiglass cracking.
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
One trick no one has mentioned - using a piece of thin sheet steel for a panel face and sticking train markers made from refrigerator magnets to it. This works best where the dispatcher is in an isolated booth and can't see the layout.
My own panels are built on sheets of heavy styrene acquired by dumpster diving. Track schematics are laid on with Dymo tape around pre-drilled holes for switches and lamps, and for the studs of my stud contact point controls. These are all Zone panels in MZL; the Main (CTC) panel is still future tense.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - analog DC, MZL)
Thought I would give you all an update. Thanks for the help. Here is the almost finished product.
Special thanks K Stapleton at http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM for the switches we used. They are on/on (no off position). They give a pulse to the twin coil switch machines but keep a constant power to light the led indicators. We went with the black plexiglass and auto pinstriping for the lines. Found a step drill did the trick for drilling the holes in the plexiglass without any concern for cracking.
I wanted this to control the whole main line from one position and have the lights indicate which way the turnouts were lined.
Your results are outstanding!
May I help myself to one of those CNR timetables, now?
Regards, Ed
William:
Very well done indeed!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Williamsb,
Thanks for the update. You did an outstanding job on that!
Sort of resembles one that I have seen somewhere before!