Wood frame blocks Tortoise machine

[kasskaboose]

I have 1x3s are every 2 feet that support the 2" foam sub-road bed.  After laying the track, scenery, etc.  I had enough money to install Tortoise switch machines.  The issue I found was one turnout is DIRECTLY above a 1x3!  How to install a Tortoise spring wire to operate the turnout? Should I drill a hole through the 1x3?  The other option I can think of is cutting away a section of the 1x3x.    Doing that is not only more labor intensive but undermines slightly the support.

I tried cutting the foam at an angle through the foam yesterdy evening to install the wire, but that didn't work.  

TIA!

[MisterBeasley]

For a simple installation, you can get a piece of "music wire" at the hardware store and create a custom-shaped actuator wire.  Mount the Tortoise next to the benchwork frame and connect the wire to the side of the throwbar rather than to the center.

Circuitron also makes a cable linkage that lets you position the Tortoise nearby at any angle and have it operate a small secondary lever.  I used one to operate a couple of crossing gates.

[dknelson]

Hard to say without being there to see the situation but is it possible to install a new 1x3 next to the problem one and then remove the problem one? 

Dave Nelson 

[JimT]

dknelson

Hard to say without being there to see the situation but is it possible to install a new 1x3 next to the problem one and then remove the problem one? 

Dave Nelson 

that was my reaction. one benefit of L-girder is it allows these modifications pretty easily, but if you have a box-construction type of rigid frame directly underneath the foam, you might be able to install a number of braces that are perpendicular to your 1x3s (before cutting out the piece under the switch), and retain the rigidity of the whole frame.

Some photos would help us with possible solutions.

[peahrens]

I;ll second the idea of using the Tortoise Remote Mount, which lets you put the Tortoise where you can and run a cable to a pivot under the throwbar.  That takes less room than the big Tortoise box under the throwbar.  Take a look at its instructions first to understand how it might mount for that turnout.  I used one in a tricky spot where I did not plan right when doing a modification, by placing a turnout over a submerged arc in a tunnel, leaving no room for a Tortoise due the through track underneath.  If the 1x3 is dead under the throwbar, that complicates things and you may want to address otherwise.

http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/tortoise.htm

 

[hon30critter]

One other option is to keep the link on top of the layout and disguise it. To do that you would mount the tortoise beside the 1 x 3 as close as possible to the turnout. Run the actuator wire straight up through the foam so it comes out beside the turnout, and then make a lateral link to the throw bar. The lateral link could be disguised as a switch stand (or switch heater if your layout is set in a northern climate), or you could hollow out a small trench in the foam and then cover the trench once the switch is operating. Just make sure you don't fill the trench with scenic glue or paint when you are doing your scenery.

As an aside, one of the things I did with my layout planning software (3rdPlanIt) was to create a map of where all the tortoises would be and compare that to the benchwork plan. I ended up having to relocate several frame members.

Dave

[richhotrain]

dknelson

Hard to say without being there to see the situation but is it possible to install a new 1x3 next to the problem one and then remove the problem one? 

Dave Nelson 

 

That is what I have done in a couple of instances. If the the turnout cannot be moved, then just move the 1x3 support.

Rich

[kasskaboose]

Sadly, I cannot remove the 1x3 since it's screwed in from the top.  Even worse is I drilled under the turnout through the frame and ruined the turnout! At least now I can create a suitable hole while waiting for the replacement.

The lesson I learned is to not use power tools near turnouts.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. 

[Medina1128]

kasskaboose

Sadly, I cannot remove the 1x3 since it's screwed in from the top.  Even worse is I drilled under the turnout through the frame and ruined the turnout! At least now I can create a suitable hole while waiting for the replacement.

I saw a post where someone forgot to drill the hole before installing the turnout. He slipped his NMRA gauge under the turnout, then drilled the hole, stopping when he hit metal.

 

[MisterBeasley]

I have a set of these, just 2 of them in the set, small and large.

They are simply called drill stops.  Or, you can simply measure the depth you want to drill and wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit at that point, then watch that you don't go any further.

[BroadwayLion]

Tortoise machine does NOT have to bu under the turnout.

LION mortoised a notch in the ground. The Tortoise is glued to a rear fascia.  I used 1/16th inch welding rod to connect the throw rod to the Tortoise. (You mest enlarge the hole in the throwbar, or else solder a thiner wire to the end of the rod.) I manually center the morot on the Tortoise, I used a little loop of stiff wire aroung the actuator, and then with the turnout also centered, solder the loop to the control rod.

 

ROAR