ctyclsscsWhat is the jewelers cement used for? Setting stones? Where do you get that? Jim
Jim,
Many places carry it and seem's they all charge a different price for the same thing. Jeweler's use it for setting stones, watch crystals, etc. My 1st. floor windows in the Merchants row kits and a lot of My other buildings have real glass from Ngineering and I use the Hypo for that also...been using it quite a few yrs. now and really like it's strength, etc.....there is a learning curve though, I believe I have that part mastered....a little bit goes a long way. All the miniature Truck/Car models I make, all the window glazing is held in place with it also, some also are real glass:
http://www.hobbylobby.com/Beads-Jewelry/Tools-Adhesive/Jewelry-Glue/G-S-Hypo-Cement-with-Precision-Applicator/p/10612
Take Care!
Frank
BTW:The windows in the fix-it plumbing store is real glass...doing the rest of them at the work bench. The Santa Fe sign was assembled and mounted to roof using the Hypo, that roof is removeable, just have to unplug it for the lights, simple to do.
Different version but shows color choices I made. I also primed with rattlecan white and then cheap acrylics for the final colors.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
ctyclsscs ...Can you tell us how you painted them? Mask and spray? Any brush painting? What brands of paint did you use?
...Can you tell us how you painted them? Mask and spray? Any brush painting? What brands of paint did you use?
If you are talking to me.
Paint: Tamiya Acrylic Paint. For all my structures I use this paint exclusively. It is easy to airbrush and cleaning the airbrush is a breeze.
For painting the walls and window frames I used painters' masquing tape with news paper and airbrushing. Lot of masquing tape.
For window sills and "tops" (Sorry, I don't know the right word in English) I used a fine angled brush. When brush painting, I put some paint on walls. I used the same fine angled brush to paint over those tiny spots with the same (diluted) paint I used on the walls.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Well, they're both very nice, but I was hoping Guy would tell us too since he seemed to question his painting skills. Can never have too many good ideas on painting!
What is the jewelers cement used for? Setting stones? Where do you get that?
Jim
If Your talking to Me.. For all the large area's I masked with 3M fine line tape, then blue painter's tape together with Automotive brown paper mask, that I have ton's of when I painted Trucks/Cars. All window trim, ledges so forth, I used Golden Eagle Artist brushes,#1, 2/0 and #3 depending on what it was. I have a gift of being able to free hand with My right hand without being supported most times. My left hand must be supported and shakes somewhat. I was even better, before My stroke in 2007, but a lot of therapy and determination got Me going again.....Also quit drinking alcohol and that helped a real lot with shaking, never realized that part, but it's true.
Paint, was some Floquil I have left, I'm partial to solvent based paints and Tamiya Acrylic's which I slightly thin with denatured alcohol when brushing on and air brushing, flows better when brushing. Everything was painted before assembly, (almost) used Jeweler's cement to assemble, sticks to paint. Goes on clear and drys clear......there's a learning curve to using it. GS-Hypo cement. Looks like thick CA, but isn't...extremely strong, once cured. Sets in 15minutes, cures in 24hrs, sometimes less, sticks to most anything, like, unlike materials.
Those look great! Can you tell us how you painted them? Mask and spray? Any brush painting? What brands of paint did you use?
How Ironic.....The orange on one of the buildings is Floquil SP Daylight orange, another color is Floquil Tuscan, Blue is Floquil dark Blue, white is Floquil Reefer white....I forget what one of the greens are, but it is also a Floquil Railroad color. All air brushed and brush painted.
This is slightly off topic, but has anyone ever used locomotive color theme combinations to paint their buildings? Obviously professionals carefully selected them to match well.
I mean, most buildings would look a little garrish in Southern Pacific Daylight colors, but I could imagine SP Scarlet trim on a gray building.
It could emphasize a layout's location if done selectively. And casual viewers would be unaware of the significance.
Strength in diversity!
Thank You, Henry...
Guy, I forgot to mention...You did a great job, on Your painting.
We all at one time or another think We can't...until We try...that's the first step. People would be amazed at what they could accomplish, if only they tried.......
Yes it is. Here are the assembly instructions so you can see how it goes together.
https://www.walthers.com/instructions/0933/09330000003028.pdf
James in Texas
zstripeYes....As are the backs and roof.....
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddy Is the front of the buildings molded as one single piece of plastic?
Is the front of the buildings molded as one single piece of plastic?
Yes....As are the backs and roof.....
EDIT: Kits II & IV together, roofs and backs not on yet! Width's have been cut down to 2 1/2'' to make them a backgound scene. Normally they would be 5 1/2'' to 5 3/4'' wide.
Yes. This building is quite easy to assemble : one front, one back, two sides, one roof for five buildings. The painting is then the more difficult part. At least it was for me.
I understand. This building stood in bare plastic for many years.
Looking good, Im about to start the same kit,as soon as I work up the nerve.
Although I posted that in WPF thread a few weeks ago, I decided that those who participated to this thread deserved a follow up. So here are two shots at the buildings after painting. There is still some work to do before I can call this project finished like addind signs, interiors, curtains and shades. As you can see I didn't detailed them too much as my painting skills are limited and I learned that ''The Evil is in the details''.
May 2016 MR page 53 - article on "Painting and Detailing Plastic Kits" - painting a DPM building
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
Thank you all. You gave me the motivation to start the project. Here is the first step: painting the brick walls.
dknelson Actually, whoever it was that did the assembly and painting for the cover of the Walthers box (and there are several good modelers who work there at Walthers) made a good choice of subdued/drab/vintage colors that looks realistic to me. I note they also re-used certain colors from building to building.
Actually, whoever it was that did the assembly and painting for the cover of the Walthers box (and there are several good modelers who work there at Walthers) made a good choice of subdued/drab/vintage colors that looks realistic to me. I note they also re-used certain colors from building to building.
Dave, I completely agree with you. The problem is that I am not such a talented modeler.
This is an excellent suggestion. When putting together a block of buildings like the Merchant's Row or DPM structures, you can often replace the rear walls and the interior side walls with plain styrene. You can have the storefronts facing the aisle making a street scene on one side of the tracks. You can then use the rear walls and left over side walls with the window and door details for a block of buildings or flats on the other side of the tracks.
Good question. I'm just getting ready to build the same kit.
I kitbash almost all of the kits of this type . . . very few of these buildings can be viewed from both front and back, so I use the backs elsewhere, and replace them on the kit with plain styrene. Gives me two kits for the price of one.
Want more? Take a look at the back of the building, where it's placed on your layout and how you're going to illuminate the inside. On my layout, there are tracks between the back of the building and the wall of the train room, and there are windows on the back of the building. You want to block those windows with cardstock if there will be lights inside, because the light shining out will cast an image on the wall of the train room.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Actually, whoever it was that did the assembly and painting for the cover of the Walthers box (and there are several good modelers who work there at Walthers) made a good choice of subdued/drab/vintage colors that looks realistic to me. I note they also re-used certain colors from building to building. It is not unusual for the same landlord to own several buildings in the same block and thus they may well be painted at about the same time by the same crews using the same choices of paint.
Dave Nelson
Steven Otte I built a Merchant's Row for the Bay Junction project on the Milwaukee, Racine & Troy. The picture is the cover photo right now on MR's Facebook page.
I built a Merchant's Row for the Bay Junction project on the Milwaukee, Racine & Troy. The picture is the cover photo right now on MR's Facebook page.
Nicely Done!
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I have a lot of brick buildings on my layout, from Walthers, DPM and City Classics. One thing that's lacking in all of them is the interior brick of the parapets around the roof. The plain, flat plastic of the reverse side of the castings just doesn't make it for me.
Since my layout is low enough that the roofs of my structures are clearly visible, even prominent in some scenes, I dress the roof up a bit. I take brick sheet and cut it into thin strips, three or four bricks high, and then paint and mortar the strips. Then I glue them into place on the interior of the parapets.
For my roofs themselves, I use thin foamboard. I spray it with Rustoleum textured speckled black paint from the hardware store. This gives the closest surface I can easily find to model an asphalt roof. I also picked up a Walthers "Roof Details" set, which gives me a large assortment of smokejacks, vents and blowers to add to the detailing.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
Hi Guy,
Well I don't have 1, but I bashed 2, 3&4 together.....but I also had to change the width to 2 1/2 inches wide, so they would fit as backdrops in a scene which is a work in progress. Everything was made removable, held in with screw's. Lighting, LED's and Incandesants are mounted on a scratch built base that slides into buildings....The backs of the buildings are screwed on, with #0 3/8'' wood screw's. The interiors, I am working on now.....with a whole bunch of SS Ltd. castings. They eventually will be glued to the stores floors, so the slide in lighting/w/walls, will not interfere with them. Making the width's smaller was not such an easy task, in regards to moulded on detail, like window's and doors...but it worked out pretty good.
The Brass rod's under the overpass, are what the wiring is soldered to, so no wires are visible and only takes two wires to disconnect. They also provide power for the lights and hold the bridge in place.
Not yet installed in pic'.
Still a lot to do, on the whole scene!.......
Mine's a different model in the Merchants' Row series, but hopefully these examples will help. I found this to be a really nice model that's quite an eye-catcher, so I gave it a prominent location, dressed it up with an interior and detailed the street scene as well.
I planned things during construction by adding interior floors and walls of foamboard. Some of this is overkill, particularly the second floor where the windows are small and it's hard to see anything inside, but it takes almost no extra time to print wood, tile or carpet floors on my computer, cut them to size and glue them to the foamboard inside. I also installed both interior and exterior lighting at this point.
This is the lower floor, where the windows are larger and it's possible to see the details inside. Again, there's nothing here but foamboard and stuff printed on the computer.
Although the 4 walls are each one piece of molded plastic, they represent multiple buildings with different facades. So, I did a lot of masking and used quite a few colors. I use rattle-can spray paints from the hardware store, mostly. As I recall, I used thinned acrylic paint for the mortar.
Illumination gives the interiors some life. They included a lot of signs with this kit, and I used them as suggestions for the bike shop and the Oriental rug place.
Figures and parking meters make the scene "deeper" and more interesting to the viewer. I should NOT have used that thick plastic for the window glazing on the lower floors. It obscures the interior, and clear acetate would have been a better choice.
And finally, good night. I used City Classics window shades and Venetian blinds in the upstairs windows. Is it my fault that the girl in the turret room didn't close them?
Mine was cut apart and kitbashed so proubly wouldn't be of any help.