By my measurement, I get 5/8". The reason that I ask is that I am considering the purchase of .080" x .625" styrene strips from Evergreen to use as track alignment guides. Has anyone tried this?
Rich
Alton Junction
ndbprrDividing 4'8 1/2" by 87 I get .649" if in true scale. 5/8" is .625". So it should be 41/64" which is 1/64" wider than 5/8".
Hi, Rich,
In this earlier thread you recommended Ribbonrail alignment gauges.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/245412/2735538.aspx
Won't these work for you now? To my thinking, the .080 styrene will be too flexible to keep tangent track aligned.
When I laid much of my track I used varying lengths, as needed, of aluminum straight edges along one rali. The opposite rail stayed straight since they were held by the ties.
Regards, Ed
NMRA Standard - Minimum .649", Maximum .672"
gmpullman Hi, Rich, In this earlier thread you recommended Ribbonrail alignment gauges. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/245412/2735538.aspx Won't these work for you now? When I laid much of my track I used varying lengths, as needed, of aluminum straight edges along one rali. The opposite rail stayed straight since they were held by the ties. Regards, Ed
Won't these work for you now?
Don't forget the curved and tangent track alignment tools from JMD Plastics
http://jmdplastics.yolasite.com/ho-and-n-scale-track-laying-gauges.php
Either Ribbonrail or JMD really do work well and it is worth waiting for the right tool to do the job right.
Rather than use between the rails tools, for years guys pushed one rail (or one edge of the ties, assuming they are even length) of the flex track against a 3 foot yardstick made of steel. The method still works.
Dave Nelson
Rich:
According to the math, the styrene strips will be too narrow by 1/64", not too wide.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Why can't you use something like this?
My tools of choice for keeping tangent rails tangent are carpenter's aluminum levels (which I also use for the intended purpose.) Short tangents, 24 inch level. Long tangents, 48 inch level.
And then there's the prototype tracklayer's key tool, the Mark 1 Mod 0 eyeball - sighting down the rails with the eye just above rail level. Even tiny deviations all but stand up and shout, "Here I am."
A small mirror can be used to adjust eye level if obstacles prevent direct sighting.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
dknelsonRather than use between the rails tools, for years guys pushed one rail (or one edge of the ties, assuming they are even length) of the flex track against a 3 foot yardstick made of steel. The method still works.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
dknelson Rather than use between the rails tools, for years guys pushed one rail (or one edge of the ties, assuming they are even length) of the flex track against a 3 foot yardstick made of steel. The method still works. It also so works well with a metre steel rule. Cheers, the Bear.
dknelson Rather than use between the rails tools, for years guys pushed one rail (or one edge of the ties, assuming they are even length) of the flex track against a 3 foot yardstick made of steel. The method still works.
Bear,
Is that NZ speak?
Take Care!
Frank
Take a telephoto picture of any stretch of rail you like, likely it wont be perfectly strait, and also it probably will not be perfectly level. A plastic ruler from walmart will also work perfectly, and wont dead short your layout if you forget about it.
I appreciate all of the suggestions and comments. I guess that I need to break down and order some Ribbonrail Track Alignment gauges. The metal ruler idea is a good one, but you need space to the sides of the flex track to effectively use a ruler. Some kind of tool inside the rails makes the most sense, so I will bite the bullet and buy some.
Rich,
Go to Home Depot and pick up a 1/2 x 3/4 x 96'' length moulding and cut Your own length...the 1/2 will fit in between the spikes, just press one side flush with spike detail.....I do it all the time, if I can't use My ruler or level.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodgrain-Millwork-WM-254-1-2-in-x-3-4-in-x-96-in-Wood-Pine-S4S-Moulding-109613/203898784
You don't have to order it and it won't break the bank and they are straight.....
Thanks, Frank, I have actually tried that but what I don't like about wood mill work is that it is usually warped or bowed, at least enough to keep it from being absolutely straight.
I don't know where You got Yours from....but the one's I have are not warped or bowed. I'm sure there must be at least a four ft section that's not bowed. I actually never saw any of those type mouldings that were warped.....bowed maybe.
Good Luck, with Your decision!
A lot of moldings are avaiable in plastic. As straight as an arrow.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I laid my track yesterday in the newly created passenger station section of my layout using a combination of techniques to lay the track as straight as I could.
I have to say, laying laser straight track is not easy, irrespective of the technique. For a couple of years now, I have contemplated building my Dream Layout. The prospect of laying laser straight track is daunting. Maybe the solution is to build a template into which flex track is fitted into an opening.