Ok, thanks for the advice. I think I might look into DCC in the future. I like the idea, it's just expensive and I do have a good number of locomotives, and if I mess up on the decoder installing, I'm screwed. I also have a lot of mixed code track. A majority of it is code 83. I bought some code 100 switches back in the summer, not knowing that most of my track is code 83. When I lay track on this new layout, I will probably keep it at code 83, but only adding the code 100 switches that I bought because track ain't cheap, and I'm not going to waste a good pair of switches. I just bought the polystyrene foam for the board. I want to make sure this layout is made the right way, and looks as good as some of the layouts you see in MR Magazine (except smaller. Some of the layouts they put in the mag are insane).
CSXman14 I'm using DC and DC only because I'm sorta on a budget since I'm only 14 and on a $20 monthly allowance, and DCC cost a heck of a lot of money with the system and all the decoders you have to put in the locomotives.
Have you seen the Arduino-based DCC system that some guy named Gregg came up with? You could probably build it for about the same price as a DC power pack. You can get Arduino clones for as little as $10. The motor shield sells for about $25, the power source about $10, and a few dollars for a USB cable to connect to a computer. You still have to get decoders, but since you're on a budget you probably don't have a ton of locos to do.
http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?threads/introducing-dcc-a-complete-open-source-dcc-station-and-interface.84800/
Also, it's okay to have different codes of track as long as you make the proper transition between them. There are commercial solutions as well as DIY methods.
Steve S
Hi, I am planning on making a new layout that will be a HO scale 9' x 9' 8" L - shaped layout with a dual track main line. The track layout will be a L - shaped figure 8-ish design, but it will crossover each other with a bridge. I will be laying 1 inch thick insulation foam (i think it's called polystyrene, the pink stuff). when the track gets to the crossover, the track will dip down to the board and it will have to raise up at least three inches to go over the bridge. I will have branch tracks at each station (which there are three of them) and and I will have a double ended rail yard ( at least 4 tracks) on a separate piece of plywood that measures 4' long by 1' 1". I need to fit as much track as I can on it, but leave enough room either beside the tracks or in between the tracks for industries (coal, steel, etc.). I will be having a ho scale afx slot car track in the city and suburb section, but not in the country. I'm using DC and DC only because I'm sorta on a budget since I'm only 14 and on a $20 monthly allowance, and DCC cost a heck of a lot of money with the system and all the decoders you have to put in the locomotives. I need to make this work because I tore my layout apart because I just wasn't happy with it because it was flat and the track (which I mixed codes of track, which I know is a no-no in model railroading) made locomotives jump and the grades I used were to much for the locos. I would really appreciate anybody's advice on what grades are best for this new layouts do for the trains, what is the most affordable code of track, even some afx car info if you know any (which am having problems with as well). I have my plan drawn out on graph paper and I have a photo of it, but since this type box thing is so ancient, I can't put it in. Thank you for reading this and seriously throw some facts at me.
thanks