Help! I Forgot to Drill Holes for My Turnouts.

[RideOnRoad]

I laid about 30' of N-Scale, Peco track including five turnouts. I just realized this morning that I forgot to drill the holes for the Tortoise motor control rods before I laid the track. I really do not want to tear up all of the track. Any suggestions on a way to retroactively add the holes? The base is cork roadbed on 1" foam on 1/4" plywood.

[woodone]

I would drill a small hole (1/8) from the top side. Then using a brad point bit of the proper size and also use a depth collar for the proper depth and drill from the bottom using the 1/8 hole as a guide. 

[davidmurray]

Rich:

On each turnout, use a hobby knife to cut under the rails of the joining track at the heel end.  Then you can slide those rail joiners back and remove the turnout.

You will of course mark where you want the hole before you do this.

Dave

[MisterBeasley]

How did you mount the track and turnouts?  Some adhesives take a while to set hard, and you may be able to slip a putty knife underneath enough to loosen them.

Or, as I mentioned over in the Diner, you can offset-mount the Tortoise machines and either extend the throwbars or bend the top of the wire into a dog-leg and slip it under the throwbar.

[RideOnRoad]

Thanks to all for the advice. I had enough room to move the rail joiners and remove just the turnouts. I did mark the location of the drill-outs before I pulled it all up. I am also working to scrape off as much of the caulk as possible to get a clean, smooth surface when it is time to put the turnouts back in place.

[rrebell]

next time take a long 1/8" bit and drill down in the next tie over in line with where you want the hole. Then mark the ply underneath where you want the hole, then drill 1/2" hole only, not only though the ply. next with finger presure only drill the hole though the foam to the turnout, you will not damage the turnout if you use hand presure (like turning the bit only with your hand like you do in a pin vise, if you are very carefull you can use one of them).

[MisterBeasley]

rrebell

next time take a long 1/8" bit ...

Next time?

Next time I hope he remembers how silly he felt this time, and does it right.

[RideOnRoad]

MisterBeasley

rrebell

next time take a long 1/8" bit ...

Next time?

Next time I hope he remembers how silly he felt this time, and does it right.

Amen.

[ndbprr]

I would have drilled a hole in a block of wood with the tip exposed equal for the depth of the substrate. The block is to stop thedrill bit under the turnout. Any remainder should be readily removable with an exacto knife.

[DSchmitt]

Drill hole beside not under turnout. Connect linkage to throwbar outside of turnout. 

Something like this, but could probably drill hole closer and have shorter linkage.

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/Brunton/200792712166_05-09-07RemoteTurnoutcontrolLinkage.jpg

Possible wat to disguise hole and linkage

http://www.nmra.org.au/Hints/Turnout_Tips/05882.jpg

 

 

[mlehman]

Try to avoid this...

I actually was able to rebuild it.

It's rough, but track was always rough in Red Mountain.

I didn't forget in this case. It's the oldest part of the layout, built as a module before I bought the present layout shelter AKA house. Use caboose throws. Still have 3, but they're over such a knot of benchwork they'll likely stay that way.

The mess you saw above came when I converted 4 to manual remotes  that were the longest reach away. I was even trying to be careful. Oh well.

[rrinker]

 If you forget the holes and the track is not easily lifted, try an alternate linkage. Drill a hole a couple of ties away from the throwbar and bend a wire like an upside down J.

 Like this: http://www.readingeastpenn.com/images/construction2/turnout1.jpg

Only closer to the throwbar - I had to put that one down so far because there was a cross brace under there. This works no matter how thick the benchwork - that layout has 2 layers of 2" foam plus 1/4" plywood on the bottom. There is a brass tube in the hole to act as a bearing surface for the throw wire.

I am probably going to do all of mine that way in the future, no lining up of holes.

                    --Randy

[RR_Mel]

For what it’s worth

 

When I built my layout I purposely didn’t drill the holes for my turnouts.  I wanted to make sure my track plan was going to work first.  I made sure I could slip the joiners far enough to remove the turnouts.  I didn’t want holes all over the place if I eroded on my track plan.

 

I’m a weirdo and I do my own thing trying to stay as close to logical as I can.  I made sure the joiners can be moved enough to remove the turnouts and that has really paid off over the years.  I only anchored my track so that my turnouts can easily be removed for maintenance or replacement and I’ve never had a problem from them not being anchored.  Over the 30 years since I laid my track I’ve had to tweak several and replace four out of twenty one turnouts that just plane wore out, three Atlas code 83 Custom Line #6s and one #4.

 

    

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[gmpullman]

Although I managed to get most of my throwbar holes in place beforehand, there were a few cases where I had to widen them or make new ones.

I used a Rotozip which is like a Dremel and by carefully setting the depth I could cut through to the point where I could use an Exacto #11 to clean up the rest of the remaining cork under the throwbar.

This was through 3/4" plywood—your 1/4" ply and foam should be easy by comparison.

*Mike, Your photo looks like a land mine went off under there! Reminds me of that WWII film the O.S.S. made where they were trying to derail railroad cars.

{Hey! I just noticed that WOOD bay window caboose USA #905 at 4:45. I thought those were a result of excess-height cars and here's this one in 1944}

Good Luck, Ed

[willy6]

I forgot too. I'm going to use "woodone"s idea. Drill from the bottom with a brad point drill. My layout is 1/2" plywood with 1/2" foam. Once i get through the plywood, i'm sure a hobby knife can do the rest...carefully.

[mlehman]

gmpullman

*Mike, Your photo looks like a land mine went off under there! Reminds me of that WWII film the O.S.S. made where they were trying to derail railroad cars.

At the time, my spirits felt like a land mine went off. I was trying to be careful, too, just like when I hacked my finger a couple of days back. Nickel-silver is some amazing stuff is all I can say. Takes a licking, comes back ticking.

[kasskaboose]

Could you have drilled up under the plywood instead of through the track? 

I too need to install the switch machines but have 2" of foam to go through.  The Atlas turnouts have holes, so I just need to create a suitable hole for the switch machine to sit under the turnout.  I also straigthen a large paper clip to serve as a pilot hole for the switch machine wire.  Once the paper clip can go through the entire hole, I know the wire also can.

[rrebell]

With just foam, it is easy. Just puch a wire down where you need the hole and drill up by hand the dia. you want.

[carl425]

rrinker

 If you forget the holes and the track is not easily lifted, try an alternate linkage. Drill a hole a couple of ties away from the throwbar and bend a wire like an upside down J.

I seem to to be exceptionally skilled at placing joists under the spot where a Tortoise needs to be.  As a result, I've given up and converted to the "upside down J" approach Randy describes.  Placement is much more flexible this way and far less precision is required - a win/win in my book.