rrinker If you forget the holes and the track is not easily lifted, try an alternate linkage. Drill a hole a couple of ties away from the throwbar and bend a wire like an upside down J.
I seem to to be exceptionally skilled at placing joists under the spot where a Tortoise needs to be. As a result, I've given up and converted to the "upside down J" approach Randy describes. Placement is much more flexible this way and far less precision is required - a win/win in my book.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
With just foam, it is easy. Just puch a wire down where you need the hole and drill up by hand the dia. you want.
Could you have drilled up under the plywood instead of through the track?
I too need to install the switch machines but have 2" of foam to go through. The Atlas turnouts have holes, so I just need to create a suitable hole for the switch machine to sit under the turnout. I also straigthen a large paper clip to serve as a pilot hole for the switch machine wire. Once the paper clip can go through the entire hole, I know the wire also can.
gmpullman*Mike, Your photo looks like a land mine went off under there! Reminds me of that WWII film the O.S.S. made where they were trying to derail railroad cars.
At the time, my spirits felt like a land mine went off. I was trying to be careful, too, just like when I hacked my finger a couple of days back. Nickel-silver is some amazing stuff is all I can say. Takes a licking, comes back ticking.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I forgot too. I'm going to use "woodone"s idea. Drill from the bottom with a brad point drill. My layout is 1/2" plywood with 1/2" foam. Once i get through the plywood, i'm sure a hobby knife can do the rest...carefully.
Although I managed to get most of my throwbar holes in place beforehand, there were a few cases where I had to widen them or make new ones.
I used a Rotozip which is like a Dremel and by carefully setting the depth I could cut through to the point where I could use an Exacto #11 to clean up the rest of the remaining cork under the throwbar.
This was through 3/4" plywood—your 1/4" ply and foam should be easy by comparison.
*Mike, Your photo looks like a land mine went off under there! Reminds me of that WWII film the O.S.S. made where they were trying to derail railroad cars.
{Hey! I just noticed that WOOD bay window caboose USA #905 at 4:45. I thought those were a result of excess-height cars and here's this one in 1944}
Good Luck, Ed
If you forget the holes and the track is not easily lifted, try an alternate linkage. Drill a hole a couple of ties away from the throwbar and bend a wire like an upside down J.
Like this: http://www.readingeastpenn.com/images/construction2/turnout1.jpg
Only closer to the throwbar - I had to put that one down so far because there was a cross brace under there. This works no matter how thick the benchwork - that layout has 2 layers of 2" foam plus 1/4" plywood on the bottom. There is a brass tube in the hole to act as a bearing surface for the throw wire.
I am probably going to do all of mine that way in the future, no lining up of holes.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Try to avoid this...
I actually was able to rebuild it.
It's rough, but track was always rough in Red Mountain.
I didn't forget in this case. It's the oldest part of the layout, built as a module before I bought the present layout shelter AKA house. Use caboose throws. Still have 3, but they're over such a knot of benchwork they'll likely stay that way.
The mess you saw above came when I converted 4 to manual remotes that were the longest reach away. I was even trying to be careful. Oh well.
Drill hole beside not under turnout. Connect linkage to throwbar outside of turnout.
Something like this, but could probably drill hole closer and have shorter linkage.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/Brunton/200792712166_05-09-07RemoteTurnoutcontrolLinkage.jpg
Possible wat to disguise hole and linkage
http://www.nmra.org.au/Hints/Turnout_Tips/05882.jpg
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
MisterBeasley rrebell next time take a long 1/8" bit ... Next time I hope he remembers how silly he felt this time, and does it right.
rrebell next time take a long 1/8" bit ...
Next time I hope he remembers how silly he felt this time, and does it right.
Amen.
Richard
rrebellnext time take a long 1/8" bit ...
Next time?
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
next time take a long 1/8" bit and drill down in the next tie over in line with where you want the hole. Then mark the ply underneath where you want the hole, then drill 1/2" hole only, not only though the ply. next with finger presure only drill the hole though the foam to the turnout, you will not damage the turnout if you use hand presure (like turning the bit only with your hand like you do in a pin vise, if you are very carefull you can use one of them).
Thanks to all for the advice. I had enough room to move the rail joiners and remove just the turnouts. I did mark the location of the drill-outs before I pulled it all up. I am also working to scrape off as much of the caulk as possible to get a clean, smooth surface when it is time to put the turnouts back in place.
How did you mount the track and turnouts? Some adhesives take a while to set hard, and you may be able to slip a putty knife underneath enough to loosen them.
Or, as I mentioned over in the Diner, you can offset-mount the Tortoise machines and either extend the throwbars or bend the top of the wire into a dog-leg and slip it under the throwbar.
Rich:
On each turnout, use a hobby knife to cut under the rails of the joining track at the heel end. Then you can slide those rail joiners back and remove the turnout.
You will of course mark where you want the hole before you do this.
Dave
I would drill a small hole (1/8) from the top side. Then using a brad point bit of the proper size and also use a depth collar for the proper depth and drill from the bottom using the 1/8 hole as a guide.
I laid about 30' of N-Scale, Peco track including five turnouts. I just realized this morning that I forgot to drill the holes for the Tortoise motor control rods before I laid the track. I really do not want to tear up all of the track. Any suggestions on a way to retroactively add the holes? The base is cork roadbed on 1" foam on 1/4" plywood.