Tunnel Portal

[BroadwayLion]

Cut the portal in half in the middle. Put one half on each side. Disguise the gap with some foliage.

ROAR

[Anonymous]

Bill,

Page 48 of the August 2015 Model Railroader has a short article on how to make a tunnel portal.

Andrew

[skagitrailbird]

Bill,

Who is the maker of your tunnel portal? Of what material is it made? How thick is it?

Roger

[mlehman]

Carved linoleum is a traditional method for cut and random stone, but the low prices for sheet goods embossed with decent patterns make them a ready alternative. JTT is one brand, with Wee Scapes another, essentially the same stuff only cheaper. I can Wee Scapes at the local art store for about $4/pkg of 2 sheets.

I haven't done any portals with it, but that sounds pretty easy to do.I generally attach it to a backing of wood or foamcore by spraying the back with 3M 77 adhesive and it sticks well.

 

Here's a few pics of structures made with random and cut stone sheeting from the 2 suppliers named above.

Purgatory station

The 9 Lives Cat House

Retaining wall at the Merry Widow Mine

[tomikawaTT]

If you want to try your hand at a fairly easy scratchbuild:

1. Plot the opening arch on a suitable backing material - pine 1x6, thick styrene or whatever.  This is your base for building up the surface.
2. For concrete just sand super-smooth, add the equivalent of lintel and other details by laminating sheet and strip stock to the base strate, then prime and paint an appropriate concrete grey, possibly with moss green at the bottom and that soot smudge over each track.
3. For cut stone, laminate a layer of linoleum to the base (finish side against the base) and carve stonework details into the linoleum with small chisels.  Remember to keep it fairly symmetrical - a commercial product will provide a suitable prototype from which to deviate.  Coloring the stones will be a bit more work after spraying concrete color for the mortared joints.  (This method was popular with John Allen.  I did similar things 'way back when, and will be using similar methods as my scenery needs develop.)

Good luck, and have fun.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with concrete and cut stone portals)

[streetspook]

Nope, I couldn't find one anywhere. I guess I could try and bash two together but at first glance I might need three or four to get it wide enough. It seems the top curves downward relatively quickly from the center, thus not leaving much room to "cutout" a straight portion to plug in the middle.

[davidmurray]

Bill:

I just looked my Walthers catalog:  they don't have a 3 track portals.

Looks like you will need to bodge two doubles to fit, or else scratch build a wide one.

Sorry about the first suggestion, unless eBay works.

Dave

[streetspook]

Thanks Dave, I didn't know they made such a creature.  It's off to eBay I go!!

 

[davidmurray]

Bill:

Have you tried looking for a 3 track tunnel portal.  You could probably cutt out a piece in the centre, and put the edges back together.

My advice is worth what you pay for it.

Dave

[streetspook]

Hi all and thanks in advance for the advice and even the good natured ribbing I'm sure I will get. To the point, I have laid a double HO scale (code 83) track where it goes into a mountain. Bought two random stone tunnel portals. One works fine, however at the other end my track is spaced "just a bit outside" the regular width. I need a portal that has an inside dimension of no less than 5.5". Most of these are in the 4.75" range. Any suggestions or can you point me to a manufacturer that makes em a bit bigger. Or, do I get to try my luck at free handing a wooden plank portal? I was really hoping to match the portal that is at the other end. See, I thought I was ahead of the curve by giving myself a little more than the regular width for car clearance so I didn't have to worry about cars tapping each other inside a tunnel. 

Thanks again for the help..

Bill

 

******UPDATE  7-11  **********

Thank you all for your good thoughts and ideas. I just knuckled down and moved one track closer to the other and nailed it in place. It was difficult because of lack of space but I'm pretty sure it's over enough now.

Thanks again

Bill