I just order some atlas code 83 tracks, problem is atlas HO nickel silver 100/83 rail joiners are out of stock in almost every place. What would be the best alternative to hook up these track together without actually messing with the joiners. I saw in some places that people use atlas N 80 joiners with HO 83, but with some modifications, anything else that might work?
Thanks
Other brands of rail joiners such as Peco should work just as well. A local hobby shop has Peco rail joiners in stock but no Atlas.
Atlas N for code 80 work perfectly without any modification.
I tried Peco code 83 found them too tight a fit.
Jack W.
Cool, I'll give it a try. I have some peco ones coming as well (didn't know about the incompatibility when ordering).
I used some Atlas brass ones, possibly for code 100 track, on a couple of recently installed staging tracks. Give 'em a squeeze with pliers after they're installed, then solder them in place. Once they're painted, their origin is not noticeable. I did use a cut-off disc to shorten them, and you can also make two joiners out of one in the same manner - these short ones are best used on straight track, and, of course, soldered in place.
Wayne
I also use Atlas N Scale Code 80 rail joiners on my HO Code 83 track. No modifications needed although things go together a little easier if you pre-size the ends of each joiner prior to installing on the actual track pieces. This re-sizing can be done by filing a slight taper onto the end of a scrap piece of Code 83 rail. Wrap the other end with some elctrical tape to form a handle and it is easy to gently push the tapered end of the tool into each end of the Code 80 joiners. The pre-sized joiners will then slip onto the Code 83 rails quite nicely. Best of all, these tiny joiners almost disappear once the track is painted and ballasted. If it wasn't for the joints in the rails, I'd almost never be able to find these joiners again.
Hornblower
Hiawatha Hobbies shows 111 packages in stock:http://www.hiawathahobbies.com/Atlas-Code-10083-metal-Rail-Joiners_p_11766.html
No connection, just a satisfied customer.
hornblowerI also use Atlas N Scale Code 80 rail joiners on my HO Code 83 track. No modifications needed although things go together a little easier if you pre-size the ends of each joiner prior to installing on the actual track pieces. This re-sizing can be done by filing a slight taper onto the end of a scrap piece of Code 83 rail. Wrap the other end with some elctrical tape to form a handle and it is easy to gently push the tapered end of the tool into each end of the Code 80 joiners. The pre-sized joiners will then slip onto the Code 83 rails quite nicely. Best of all, these tiny joiners almost disappear once the track is painted and ballasted. If it wasn't for the joints in the rails, I'd almost never be able to find these joiners again.
I second Hornblower's suggestions. I had seen this info earlier and used the Atlas N80 on my code 83 Atlas flex with Walthers Shinohara turnouts. As he notes, a bit of pre-sizing made putting them on pretty easy, and I really like the smaller profile compared to the larger ones.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I needed some code 100 rail joiners a month or so ago and could only find Peco which were outrageously priced. I went to Amazon.com and found a ready supply. You might try there. It forever amazes me that things as simple as rail joiners can't be found.
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....
I've long pondered, but never tested, the idea that the rail joiner being unneccesary if one solders all joints. Once they're soldered, shouldn't the alignment be forever sealed? I seem to recall once seeing someone solder small pieces of brass wire in the web of the rail. I think. Maybe I imagined that.
I use the Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 joiners with Walthers/Shinohara track. I have not tried them with Atlas track but they are smaller, better looking and a much tighter fit than Atlas joiners, making the electrical connection more likely permanent. Try them; you might like them!
Dante
For those that have mentioned that the Peco rail joiners being too tight; I found the same issue with Micro Engineering joiners, as well.
Using about a 2 1/2-3" section of rail, I ground the rail to a point. I also cut a slot in a piece of 1x2 pine with a reinforced cutoff disk in a Dremel (remember, always use eye protection!) I hold one end of the joiner, then just get it started on the "joiner loosener" tool. Push the rail into the slot. The slot is narrow enough to allow the rail to slide down into it, but not the joiner.
Rail joiner spreading tool.
Barely slide joiner onto tool.
Push tool into slot cut into pine.
Slot is only wide enough to allow tool to fit, sliding joiner onto rail.
Joiner at top shows before. Lower joiner after spreading. I leave the short tabs on to grasp with needle-nosed pliers to slide onto rail. They are still plenty snug on final assembly.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
NittanyLion I've long pondered, but never tested, the idea that the rail joiner being unneccesary if one solders all joints. Once they're soldered, shouldn't the alignment be forever sealed?
I've long pondered, but never tested, the idea that the rail joiner being unneccesary if one solders all joints. Once they're soldered, shouldn't the alignment be forever sealed?
Nope. The joint is a zone of weakness anyway, and without the joiner even a soldered joint can break. If the joint eventually loosens, and you have a joiner in place, at least alignment should be maintained. Without a joiner, lateral force around a curve, or expansion and contraction of the benchowrk is likely to cause the joint to fail.
I seem to recall once seeing someone solder small pieces of brass wire in the web of the rail. I think. Maybe I imagined that.
That used to be fairly common. I know a guy who still does it because he claims to have trouble creating bumps at the joints when he uses joiners. Even in a climate-controlled space, he still has failed joints from rail wanting to shift outward on curves and the small amount of movement in the benchwork lumber with the seasons causing the solder to snap. I've chided him about how joiners could solve all that.
Rob Spangler