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Walthers Shinoaras turnouts

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Walthers Shinoaras turnouts
Posted by Lillen on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 4:20 PM

Hi,

I'm thinking of adding a few of these to my layout: https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/948-8812

But now I wonder how you control them. Are they like Peco switches so that they have an inbuilt "sping" so that you can just manually flip them witout a switsmachine or are they like for example Atlas turnouts and need a swith machine of some sort? So anyone know how they match up to Peco C83 track?

Thanks for your help.

 

Magnus

 

Unless otherwise mentioned it's HO and about the 50's. Magnus
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Posted by cacole on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 4:33 PM

Shinohara turnouts do not have a built-in spring, so you will need to use some type of switch motor or ground throw.

 

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Posted by modelmaker51 on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 4:35 PM

They should be compatable with any other code 83 track. You will need to power them with either 4 ground throws or 4 switch machines, either solenoid type or motor driven. They are not sprung.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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Posted by Lillen on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 4:44 PM

Thanks for the quick help. Guess I better get Tortoises then. :)

 

Magnus

Unless otherwise mentioned it's HO and about the 50's. Magnus
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Posted by Lillen on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 6:17 PM

Do anyone of you know if Caboose ground throws 202s will work for them?

 

Magnus

Unless otherwise mentioned it's HO and about the 50's. Magnus
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 6:28 PM

You might want to go with the 218S, it has the 5 different adapters diferent types of turnouts, however I cannot confirm that they will work unmodified.  You should be able to drill a small hole #55 hole or so in the throwbar and slip the peg from the 202s in, however.  I do that with the PECO code 100s.   The Shinorhara Code 83 turnouts in the 2014 Reference book appear to have a hole drilled in the throw bar.  Note: the ground throw can only be mounted on one side of these turnouts, so check clearances.  If the hole in the throwbar is not large enough, you can always make it slightly larger with a drill bit that is slightly larger than the peg on the 202S.  If you want to go with 218S or similar throws that come with 5 adapters, it looks like one of them will work (there are two with the little pegs on them).  Again if the hole in the throw bar is too small, you can easily make it larger.

Also note that the turnouts you indicated are not currently instock with Walther's, so you may have to wait to get them unless you have a local source for them.

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Posted by Capt. Grimek on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 6:43 PM

Mine have the Tortoise throw wire come up through either the r.h. or l.h. rivet hole rather than the central hole. They have worked fine for several years. I was worried they weren't done correctly (by a work session friend) but they haven't been a problem so far.  (anyone else do this?)

Jim

Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.

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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 9:08 PM

In the long term, if your throw has a rivit hole, best to use it. But the plastic is tough and many model turnouts see relatively few cycles, so probably not an issue if you've noticed no problems over several years.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by skagitrailbird on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 9:58 PM

Mangus,

Yes, the 202S's will work just fine.  If the throw bars on the double crossover are the same as those on Walthers code 83 plain turnouts (very likely, I would guess) you will have to do a little simple modification.  The end of the throw bar has a loop on the top side.  The throw bar is long enough that I just cut off the loop end, drill an appropriat size hole for the groud throw pin and cut a smidge off that pin since it is a bit too long.  Thes modifications take about two minutes, most of which is drilling the hole.

Good luck.

Roger Johnson
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, July 31, 2014 6:42 AM

I've been using Walthers-Shnohara turnouts for a few years now.  I drive them with Tortoises.  I mounted most of them using the center hole, but I put one on an offset hole.  I think I did it just because I could, but this gives you a bit of wiggle-room in situations where the Tortoise wants to be where you've already got benchwork structure.

I would strongly advise powering the frogs.  It can be done post-installation, but it's a lot easier to plan ahead, wire the frogs and at least drop the wire through so it's there later.  As long as you've got Tortoises, though, you'd might as well just do it right from the start.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by wp8thsub on Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:01 PM

Lillen
So anyone know how they match up to Peco C83 track?

Walthers/Shinohara and Micro Engineering have the thinnest ties of any HO plastic tie track, while Peco ties are the thickest.  Be careful about vertical alignment.  It's a good idea to shim the Walthers turnouts with some thin cardstock or styrene to ensure the tops of the rails match up with Peco flex.

Rob Spangler

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Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:02 PM

Lillen
....So anyone know how they match up to Peco C83 track?

 

The Shinohara ties aren't quite as thick as those of Peco, so you'll need to place some sort of shim under them.  The difference is about .020", so a piece of sheet styrene of that thickness will do the trick.  You may also use the thin cardboard in which Walthers packages their structures and the Shinohara turnouts.
The head of the Shinohara rail is also wider than that of the Peco, by about .007".  Of course, the difference is all outside the gauge, so it won't cause any operational issues, and once the rail has been painted, won't be noticeable.


Wayne

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Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, July 31, 2014 1:26 PM

MisterBeasley

I would strongly advise powering the frogs.  It can be done post-installation, but it's a lot easier to plan ahead, wire the frogs and at least drop the wire through so it's there later.  As long as you've got Tortoises, though, you'd might as well just do it right from the start.

 

Or, at least add feeders on all four ends of the double crossover.  I have two of them on my layout, and they can be problematic without adequate feeders.   I use four Tortoises on each of mine, and all four Tortoises are wired together, so they all point straight through or they all point divergent.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by Lillen on Thursday, July 31, 2014 7:28 PM

Thanks for all your help guys. I really apreciate it. I'm starting to play with the idea of scratchbuilding one with one of my fast tracks jigs as a guide. But I get dizzy just looking at the complexity! :)

 

Magnus

Unless otherwise mentioned it's HO and about the 50's. Magnus
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Posted by mlehman on Thursday, July 31, 2014 7:49 PM

richhotrain
I use four Tortoises on each of mine, and all four Tortoises are wired together, so they all point straight through or they all point divergent.

There's a good idea. Doubt I'll ever have need for it down here in the San Juans, though, unless that urban sprawl thing gets really out of control...Stick out tongue

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by hardcoalcase on Friday, August 1, 2014 7:19 PM

There was an article a few years back in MR about using one Tortoise to throw all four turnouts using a series of linkages.  I think it would take some tinkering to get it all working correctly so it's a time vs. $$ decision; but if you're thinking of using several double crossovers, might be worth a try.

Jim

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Posted by Capt. Grimek on Friday, August 1, 2014 7:50 PM

Mike and Mr. B.,

Thanks. My concern wasn't so much for the durability of the rivet hole, but that they're off center-but they've seemed to work fine.

Thanks again,

Jim

 

Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.

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Posted by Marc_Magnus on Saturday, August 9, 2014 2:41 PM

Shinoara track is a good brand of track, they offer numerous switch and crossing which look great on any HO layout.

Sometimes they need a few adjustement and are compatible whith other brand of track in code 83 like Peco.

Anyway choice a slow motion motor to move the points like Tortoise or Switchmaster, try to avoid selenoid motors because I beleive they are from an other age.

They are nearly bullet proof and DCC compatible, they also offer fine tuning to move the points.

Another option is RC servo motor but they need a controler to move; they are inexpensive but whith the controler the price reach the one of Tortoise or Switchmaster, it's a choice www.tamvalleydepot.com promote them and offer controler.

Good luck

Marc MAGNUS

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