I know we use cork roadbed on the main tracks. But, do we use it in the yards on top of the N scale cork. I am having a hard time seeing this on the videos and on postings. I am getting ready to do it.
i'm certainly no expert but i'm just starting to make my layout a reality and i went to Michaels and got some cork by the roll for my freightyard as it just seemed way simpler than laying all of those smaller pieces of cork...
midwest also sells cork in larger pieces, i looked at that option at billstrains.com but Michaels is way cheaper plus if you signup at the michaels website within like a week they send you a 40% off any one item coupon...thats what i used to buy the cork roll
good luck
matthew
Going with sheet cork is often mentioned. One thing you might want to consider is a thinner cork than your roadbed. Yards and sidings are usually lower in the prototype, so there are many mentions of using N scale roadbed on them or thinner cork. Some even go down to the layout base (plywood or foam). Using a shingle, sanding the cork, digging a taper into the foam to the depth of the cork (or as deep as needed to match other material) are all ways I have seen talked about to change elevation smoothly.
Have fun,
Richard
NO
Cork roadbed is used on the mainline to simulate the ballast and drainage required or necessary on mainline trackage. It elevates the mainline so water drains away faster so the mainline will be more stable at track speed.
Yards are not ballasted as well and sink into the ground over time. To simulate this, most experienced modelers lay their yard tracks right on the table top. This makes the level of the yard in a bowl of sorts. Because of that, loose cars in the yard can't roll out on the mainline because they would have to go up a slight grade or rise.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I use sheet cork 3/16ths by the roll from JoAnn Fabrics for my yard area and transition it from mainline, Midwest cork roadbed with a 1/16th Balsa piece about a foot and a half long. I sand it to match and then seal the balsa with a clear coat. I unroll and flatten the cork for a day or two. I glue down the sheet cork with Titebond liberably and flatten and pin every three or four inches and let it sit for a day. Pushing down hard as I pin (using the plastic head colored push pins into the plywood) has given me great flat yard areas with no problems ever. This is the second build I have used this method on and have never had a failure and were talking 25 years. I like using sheet cork because it holds fasteners much better than foam. I paint it my basic earth color latex, two coats to seal it before I lay any track. Hope this helps. Doug
My yard goes right on the foam. I lower the cork into it by cutting a trench. Caulk acts as a filler and leveler for any errant gouges.
Here's one in a different spot.
Don't forget to check with a level.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Some comments on the prototype, to help steer your thinking:
If you're using cork for roadbed (I'm not!) then use thinner sheet cork for your yard.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in 1964)
I use 1/8" cork sheet for my yard base. I use 1/4" cork strips for my mainlines.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I use cork for main lines only. All sidings, spurs and yard tracks are on the layout surface.
Do you use cork roadbed in the yards? I guess you certainly can. I didn't, however. I used a sheet of Homosote for my staging and main yards.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
Hi,
On my previous (1994-2007) and current (2008 - ) HO layout I used the regular cork roadbed for mains, and sheet cork for yards, terminal, and other siding tracks. I believe the latest sheeting is about 3/32 or so thick and it works like a charm.
I glue over the entire area, and held it down with a plethora of press pins, and when dry painted with earth colored latex paint. The cork gives an excellent base for track, roads, structures, whatever, and fills any seams between the wood or whatever benchwork.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
My thought is: it's expensive! I cut a 12" ramp patiently in the foam roadbed and lowered the lines entering the yard. Then I just spiked the flex track down ... No adhesive yet.
What about industrial sidings? Do it the same as the yard?
My industrial sidings except one Dock has roadbed. This is because to drop and gain 0.25" elevation from cork to no cork takes about 12" at 2% grade. It is also a pain to cut the ramp. So it did not make sense for each siding for me.
I only did it for the afore mentioned entree into the docks ("Brendam Docks") and the staging/ interchange yard. I do notice a rumble of foam when trains are running directly on track over foam. Does not bug me because all my engines are sound and they drown it out.
NP.
PRR1,
I don't see why you cannot,, a siding is similar to a yard,,just smaller,,,,that way it will all be uniform..
Glad you found the Thread,,,..
Cheers,
Frank
When I was building my sidings which are lower than mainlines, I started the siding with about 16" of cork roadbed. Then, using a belt sander, I sanded it down to the base level, starting about 6" from the turnout.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I'd like to add another element to the question: How about Kato track?
My N-scale Cha-Cha Chesapeake Industrial RR is almost all yards and industries and I use Kato track for its reliability. But Kato sections have a built-in plastic roadbed which raises the rails above the Homasote surface. What is a good, lightweight filler to use between the sections to bring the ground level up to the ties? Maybe Sculptamold?
I specify lightweight because this is a semi-portable layout that I want to be able to carry from one room to another.
If it were me, I would cut very thin slices of foam with the bread knife and fit them in. Next paint it a dark earthy colour. I would then sprinkle your ground cover of choice over it. Ballast, dirt or whatever.
I like to keep everything as flat as possible. I like to uncouple over magnets and use the Kadee "delayed" uncoupling trick to spot cars. I also use a MicroMark Truck Tuner to make sure my metal wheels and axles give me the most friction-free running they can. Between the two of these, level track is a must, as loose cars will either take off ahead of a pushing-but-uncoupled engine, or roll back and re-couple after spotting.
My most recent yard is a staging / storage yard which is visible behind tall buildings, so I wanted it to look good. I used sheet foam, so I didn't end up with an above-grade line but the track remained level and even with the mains coming in.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
matthewd5 i'm certainly no expert but i'm just starting to make my layout a reality and i went to Michaels and got some cork by the roll for my freightyard as it just seemed way simpler than laying all of those smaller pieces of cork... matthew
Matthew,
I did the same thing, but didn't like the results. Perhaps it was the way I attached it to the plywood, but it tended to bubble up after a while. I ended up scraping it off and going the traditional way.
I would suggest that you spread the adhesive thoroughly over the area you are going to lay it over, with no voids. I think mine had pockets where the adhesive was thinner and didn't secure the sheet cork properly.
- Douglas