Hi all,
First I want to thank everyone who was so helpful with my design phase. Now we move from design to build.
I think I have finished my planning, my train room is painted and the benchwork is assembled. Now I am on to rough wiring.
I have run two sets of 14 gauge bus wires, see the two picture attached below. One set for the inner or upper loop and one set for the outer or lower loop. I have not run the bus for accessories yet.
My questions are:
How to you anchor the ends of the bus to the benchwork?
If you have your control center in the middle of the layout what is the preferred method to connect the transformer to the bus? Do you cut the loop and connect to the transformer as two seperate wires? Or pass the wire through a terminal block and then feed the transformer to the terminal block? All suggestions and experience is appreciated.
Pictures would be awesome.
I will continue to post updates as I go.
Thank you in advance,
Aflyer
Looks really nice.
I just stapled my main bus wires to the last cross piece and ran separate wires from the bus to my mrc controller's wiring blocks...
matthew
I have a question about your frame work, is that a professionally made benchwork or did you make it yourself? I have never seen benchwork like that.
Woodman,
I can't take credit for the benchwork, this is Mianne benchwork. I saw it displayed a year ago at a train show and finally decided that I would buy it last month.
Tim Foley owns the company and was a pleasure to work with. I basically started with one of his standard layouts and made a few modifications to fit my track plan. I have pasted the link to his website below. Take a look around and see what you think.
http://www.miannebenchwork.com/benchwork_kits.htm
There are also some You tube videos of his benchwork to review, and one of the recent Classic Toy Trains layouts was done with Mianne benchwork and that can be seen in the magazines or on YouTube.
Great stuff, I assembled the whole thing in about a day, and I am impressed with it.
MATTHEWD5,
HI, thank you for the response. I am guessing your MRC controller is at one end of your layout? I think mine will go in the middle, but maybe the hook up to my Flyer transformers can be done the same way.
Thank you again,
Right now it's connected to the middle.
I worked on the base level decking today and got the long leg completed. I have started the short leg, and expect to get that completed tomorrow and hope to start on the upper level.
I have posted a couple of pictures below, please have a look and let me have your comments, and suggestions.
This is the first layout I have ever done with multiple track levels and grades. I have left the center section open, because it saves on plywood and provides needed access for wiring the upper level.
All suggestions are welcome.
Thank you,
Hi guys,
I got started on cutting out the elevated decking today. It sure doesn't look like I got much done, but I feel like I worked hard at it.
I can tell you I spent about 5 hours measuring and laying it all out, first on top of the base level deck to see how it all fit, then on the blank sheet of plywood which is the start of the elevated level.
After all the measuring and layout work, it took about 20 minutes to cut it. I guess that gives new meaning to the phrase measure twice cut once. Now I know why people print out full size track plans, it would have sure been easier than using actual track! I think I will try that for the next section.
I have posted two more photos below, the one piece of elevated deck is only sitting on 2 1/2' blocks, when finally assembled it will be 5 inches above the base level. I layed out the track just so I could get a feel for what it will look like. I got the outer loop layed down as well as the start of the yard.
There is still a lot of work before I start permanently laying track.
Thanks in advance for any comments,
Very nice work!
On the buss question...........
My control center is in the middle of the layout. Buss wires run to the right, and another set to the left. When they reach the end of the layout, I tied them off on a eyebolt. I did tape the end, just as a precaution.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Mobilman44,
Hi, and thank you for the response. Eyebolts, what great idea, I will stop and pick some up tomorrow. Right now as shown in the photos, I have just run the wires and not anchored them down. Oh yes and a little tape on the ends.
My control center will probably be in the center as well, I think it makes the most sense for operating. I am thinking now that I may put the transformers on a sliding drawer or maybe a rolling cart, this way it can be out of the way when not in use.
Thanks again,
Great job, very professional bench work.
I really love that "Drive in Movie screen"
Johnboy out........................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Johnboy,
Thanks for that, I am happy you noticed it.
I need to build a parking lot and put in the little speaker stands to finish that scene.
aflyerMy questions are: How to you anchor the ends of the bus to the benchwork? If you have your control center in the middle of the layout what is the preferred method to connect the transformer to the bus? Do you cut the loop and connect to the transformer as two seperate wires? Or pass the wire through a terminal block and then feed the transformer to the terminal block?
If you have your control center in the middle of the layout what is the preferred method to connect the transformer to the bus? Do you cut the loop and connect to the transformer as two seperate wires? Or pass the wire through a terminal block and then feed the transformer to the terminal block?
Texas Zepher,
Hi and great to hear from you, one of the original guys who gets credit for my current track plan.
Thanks for the input on the bus lines. I am thinking I need to tie the loose ends of the bus to the benchwork just so they don't flop around and fall out of the holes.
This as a Flyer AC layout, but I appreciate your answer on two shorter bus lines running out of the transformer. One will go in each direction from the transformer which I have decided will go roughly in the middle of the layout. Thanks for that piece of advice.
Good morning all,
It's been a long time since I last posted, and I haven't made much progress on the layout. But I am getting started again and will post a few photo's this weekend.
I am about to start cutting my sub road bed, and trying to decide on the width. My rubber roadbed is 2.5 inches wide and I am thinking 4 inches for the plywood.
I know this is subjective and also depends on the amount of room between the tracks, however I am looking for any input you have to share.
Thank you in advance,Aflyer
Have been following with interest.
As far as hook up to the power source, I do mine with a terminal block. This is a photo of another spot on my layout, not at the power source but same idea. Two wires from the power source with bus wires going off in different directions.
"> As far as ending the bus wires goes. I just hook up my last feeder (furthest away) to the ends. No left over to deal with. Looks like your having fun. Good luck.
As far as ending the bus wires goes. I just hook up my last feeder (furthest away) to the ends. No left over to deal with.
Looks like your having fun. Good luck.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Hi Aflyer,
I am sure you have this covered, but just in case you haven't, I would remind you that on your overpass clearances be sure to take in the additional height of the roadbed and track as well as the tallest car you will operate plus an additional 1/4 inch. (just in case factor)
I have seen where a few people ended up with doing a major reconstruction as they overlooked the roadbed and track in their planning.
You are doing some very nice work, I am sure you will enjoy your layout for a very long time.
The secret is to make it as bullet proof as you can for trouble free operation.
Johnboy out.................................now if I can just get to the Train Room today.
Batman,
Thank you, thats a good idea, I'll look into it.
Thank you for the compliment, I am pretty happy with how it is turning out, just wish it was going a little faster.
I am watching the clearances, my roadbed and track is about .5 inch, which only gives me 4.5 inches to the bottom of the upper level. Once I get everything "tacked" together for a dry fit I think I will know better if I need to make changes.
I have been looking for "S" portals to see that they measure and I think they are 5.5 inches.
I have made a little progress on the layout today, I am learning how to cut cookie cutter sub roadbed, and am actually quite happy with how it looks.
The risers are just temporary, to check the grades and make sure everything fits together I have most of the splices cut for joining with biscuits, but I wont glue them until I am ready to assemble this whole leg of the layout.
This first shot is the end view of the 12 foot leg of the layout
The grades are measuring just under 2%, 1" rise in about 54" of track length.
l
Six feet cut out 6 more to go. The next six might go faster, I am learning as I go.
All comments welcome, nothing is screwed or glued yet.
Thank you for looking,
When I first saw the initial "upper" level plywood installed, I was ready to mention that you don't have to fully "deck" those raised portions. I notice the arcs of what appears to be 1/2" birch now for the sweeping curved grades. Even though this quality plywood may seem quite secure/ stable now, I would add additional supports on those turns. Plywood is strongest when the outer graining is parallel to the cut, as you cut the arc and that "grain" becomes crosscut the plywood looses a fair amout of it's strength. Also bending up plywood in this fashion sometimes tends to want to twist. tilt downward opposite of any desired superelevation. Placing additional risers and keeping the subroadbed secure and level will prevent any future trouble on those turns. If placing the added risers is too difficult, adding stiffeners under the plywood is also an option. Very nice work, that Mianne benchwork is rather remarkable.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
bogp40,
Hi, and thank you for the tips. The plywood is 7 layer "hardwood" from Lowes, and you are right it does get pretty flexible when cut into 4" wide ribbons. I don't know if it is birch, but it seems to be decent quality, with only small voids here and there.
I had thought about adding stiffeners, and actually adding a couple more beams so I can have risers about every 12' where those curves are.
Thank you for your comments,
I have a question about the next steps on my layout. I hope to finish all the cutting and fitting of sub roadbed, and then plan to start soldering wires to track sections cleaning and painting track and road bed etc.
My question is about painting the sub road bed, should I give all the sub road bed a base coat of paint prior to laying the track? The alternative would be laying track first and then painting. Is there a preferred method?
aflyer I have a question about the next steps on my layout. I hope to finish all the cutting and fitting of sub roadbed, and then plan to start soldering wires to track sections cleaning and painting track and road bed etc. My question is about painting the sub road bed, should I give all the sub road bed a base coat of paint prior to laying the track? The alternative would be laying track first and then painting. Is there a preferred method? Thank you, Aflyer
It appears that the room/ space for your layout is in a rather controlled envionment. If this was in an attic, basement or garage, painting would be an excellent choice for stability. In your case, I feel painting the subroadbed is not needed. I don't know what you plan to use for roadbed (cork, foam etc) or method of adhering it, but the bare plywood will accept any glue, caulking or adhesive w/o any trouble. At the point you are now, I would use DAP Alex Plus caulk for both the roadbed and track. Any minor changes or fiddling w/ track can easily be done by lifting the track/ roadbed w/ a thin flexible putty knife.
My club's rather large layout is in a fully climate controlled space, none of the L-girder, open frame or the 3/4" birch plywood has been sealed or painted. We have never had any issues w/ the trackwork due to this. I realize much is on spline which is most forgiving to any moisture/ humidity changes, but we still have quite a good portion on plywood "strips"
matthewd5I wasn't even considering climate, I just thought it would look better having a matching or complimentary color Matthew
The subroadbed will be covered w/ roadbed, ballast and scenery at some time. Many will paint the "plywood prarrie" especially if it is years before doing the scenery.
That is an awesome club layout you have there, how big is it, it looks like a warehouse full?
My layout is in a climate controlled bonus room as you guessed. That probably means I don't have to paint the wood for protection. I am thinking about gluing the track down, this is an AF layout and I have the rubber roadbed which I think might glue down pretty well. Knowing the DAP will stick to the bare wood better than a painted surface is a good tip.
Matthew,
I am thinking the same same thing it will be easier to roll a coat of latex on everything before assembly, and you are right it would look a lot better. I also was thinking about glueing the roadbed down and thinking it might stick better on the bare wood, so no decision yet, I will keep reading what others are doing.