Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Best Adhesive For Bridge Guard Rails?

9706 views
19 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Summit NJ
  • 308 posts
Best Adhesive For Bridge Guard Rails?
Posted by fkrall on Friday, November 30, 2012 7:49 AM

I'm ready to form Code 83 guard rails for a bridge and want to assure I use the right adhesive.  They'll be roughly  12" long, allowing for overhang beyond the bridge at both ends.

I'm concerned that CA will (1) cure before I can attach the guard rails properly and/or (2) create a brittle bond between the rail and the plastic ties (Code 100 flextrack for the main).

I have Elmer's Sitx-All and have seen references to Pliobond in this forum.

I'd appreciate some guidance--thanks.

Rick Krall

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
  • 1,796 posts
Posted by JoeinPA on Friday, November 30, 2012 8:16 AM

If you are worried about working time, you could try 5 minute epoxy. That should allow plenty of time for placement and will give you a strong bond.

Joe

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,280 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Friday, November 30, 2012 8:23 AM

Joe, you beat me to it.  I wanted to suggest 5 minute 2-part epoxy as well.

Also, there are various grades of CA adhesive, some provide longer working time than others.

Whatever you use, you are going to need clamps to hold the guard rails until the adhesive has had time to set.  So, do one end of the guard rails, clamp the end and then move to finish the other end.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
  • 11,439 posts
Posted by dknelson on Friday, November 30, 2012 8:39 AM

Fortunately a guard rail should not undergo the types of pressures and stresses that an active load bearing rail would.  I have used ACC (gap filling kind) with success but my bridge was fairly short.

In an extreme case where the length of rail makes you fear for a poor contact area,  it should be possible to drill into the base of the rail and solder a short length of rod or nail or pin that would in turn slip into a hole drilled in a plastic tie.  Even that bit of an anchor could make the rest of the cementing hold much more reliably.

 In the alternative it could also be possible to file away a bit of the metal base of the rail and replace it with a piece of styrene that could be epoxied into place, then filed to match the profile of the rail, so that a solvent based cement would hold the guard rail to a couple of plastic ties.

I am not aware of anyone who has ever made the product, but a case could be made for a styrene casting for a length of guard rail. 

Dave Nelson

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,481 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, November 30, 2012 8:47 AM

I used CA on mine.  I had no trouble getting them positioned correctly, and they've been in place for years with no issues.  Make sure the ties and the bottom of the guard rails are paint-free and clean before gluing them.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Friday, November 30, 2012 9:40 AM

ZAP-A-GAP,,, Medium CA,,,, works perfect!!!    And you don't have to clamp it..

Cheers,

Frank

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 2,455 posts
Posted by wp8thsub on Friday, November 30, 2012 9:42 AM

You could try the "poly zap" product sold by Microscale.  It looks and works like CA, but is intended to remain flexible to work with slippery engineering plastics, plus it has a much longer working time than most CA.  It doesn't get brittle.  I've used it to attach rails for a Central Valley turnout kit.

Note that you don't have to get all of the glue onto the rail before adding it to the ties.  You can place the rail, and add CA or equivalent separately.  Put some CA or poly zap on a scrap of styrene or wood, and use a piece of wire to pick up a drop of glue and let it flow under the rail one tie at a time.

Another option is Walthers Goo.  I have a steel trestle with guard rails attached with Goo onto Micro Engineering plastic ties.  It also remains flexible.

Rob Spangler

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: North Dakota
  • 9,592 posts
Posted by BroadwayLion on Friday, November 30, 2012 9:50 AM

Eh? Well it depends, on a bridge, I guess you are stuck with glue. Subways have lots of guard rails, the LION solders his in place. Well, first of all the LION is far to cheap to buy real rail, so him uses 1/6th" welding rods. Yes, they are round, but once in place you can sand the tops down with a Dremel tool and once you have slobbered black paint on them, nobody will notice anyway.

OK, the LION puts a small brass nail every so many inches, and lays a bead of solder on them. Him then comes around with the welding rod, and solders it to these nail heads. Sand and Paint it and it passes inspection, at least as far as a LION needs to concern himself. Nit-Pickers have been eaten in the past, a practice that may continue well into the future.

ROAR

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Friday, November 30, 2012 9:57 AM

Had no problem w/ using CA to attach the guard rails on the ME viaduct.  I actually thought of using the Pliobond that was used to secure the ME bridge flex track, but thought it may be too messy. The rail was fitted/ shaped and dry fit. The thin CA "wicked" into the contact areas w/o problem. Just held rail in place and worked my way along the length of the bridge. This has held under extreme running at a club setting for close to 8 years now. The ME ties as well as the CV tie strips do have the added advantage of the molded area for the guard rail position. If you hold the rail against the molded spike/ plate detail you should be fine on other track. Just check the guage before permanantly securing. A piece of stripwood or styrene may be needed to set the spacing.

If your prototype has the rail ends bent inward, don't allow them to touch or add a styrene insulator to prevent any shorts.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
  • 9,352 posts
Posted by BATMAN on Friday, November 30, 2012 10:01 AM

Here is a adhesive chart I printed off to keep at my bench for easy reference. Not as complete as it might be, but answers my questions most of the time.

 ">

BrentCowboy

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Friday, November 30, 2012 11:22 AM

Contrarian reporting, Suh!

My guardrails are held in place by - gasp - spikes!  (Hey, if it's good enough for the prototype...)

Admittedly, I had to drill the plastic ties, but, like my prototype, I only spike every fifth tie.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - prototypically, when convenient)

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Summit NJ
  • 308 posts
Posted by fkrall on Friday, November 30, 2012 11:27 AM

tomikawaTT

Contrarian reporting, Suh!

My guardrails are held in place by - gasp - spikes!  (Hey, if it's good enough for the prototype...)

How retro, how quaint.

Is that like paying with cash?

Rick Krall

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Summit NJ
  • 308 posts
Posted by fkrall on Friday, November 30, 2012 11:30 AM

BATMAN

Here is a adhesive chart I printed off to keep at my bench for easy reference. Not as complete as it might be, but answers my questions most of the time.

BrentCowboy

Great chart, Brent!  I've taken a screen shot of it and will keep it.

But I do have to ask you--what happened to #2?   :>)

Rick Krall

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Friday, November 30, 2012 12:24 PM

I use gelled contact cement to hold guard rails in place.  It holds even when the bridge is removed for cleaning, despite the vertical flexing which occurs under such circumstances.


Wayne

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Southeast Texas
  • 5,449 posts
Posted by mobilman44 on Saturday, December 1, 2012 6:23 AM

Hi,

I built a Cornerstone truss bridge back in 1993, and put in guard rails.   They were attached with ACC (metal rail to plastic base) and held perfectly for 14 years.  Ha, no one was more surprised and happy about that than me!

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: East Haddam, CT
  • 3,272 posts
Posted by CTValleyRR on Saturday, December 1, 2012 8:14 AM

There's that word "best" again.  Doesn't go very will with our hobby.

If you've read the previous posts, you'll see that there are lots of options. all of which work for the person who posted it.

My personal recommendation would be to use a slower setting CA.

Over many years, I have discovered that relying on the adhesive to hold parts of your model in position is a dicey proposition.  I have acquired a bunch of specialty clamps, mostly from Micromark, and I use these to hold things in place while the adhesive cures.

Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford

"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
  • 9,352 posts
Posted by BATMAN on Sunday, December 2, 2012 11:08 AM

fkrall

BATMAN

Here is a adhesive chart I printed off to keep at my bench for easy reference. Not as complete as it might be, but answers my questions most of the time.

BrentCowboy

Great chart, Brent!  I've taken a screen shot of it and will keep it.

But I do have to ask you--what happened to #2?   :>)

Rick Krall

Rick, #2 use to be spit! But because so much of it was contaminated by Beer, it didn't work that well so they removed it.BeerLaugh
 Actually that was a good observation that #2 was missing. I hadn't noticed that myself and I have no idea why it is.
BrentCowboy
 

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Summit NJ
  • 308 posts
Posted by fkrall on Sunday, December 2, 2012 4:51 PM

BATMAN

Rick, #2 use to be spit! But because so much of it was contaminated by Beer, it didn't work that well so they removed it.BeerLaugh
 Actually that was a good observation that #2 was missing. I hadn't noticed that myself and I have no idea why it is.
BrentCowboy
 

Fair enough.  I can't imagine what might be missing, but if #2 ever returns, could you please repost the chart?  I think it's a great reference.

Rick Krall

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Summit NJ
  • 308 posts
Posted by fkrall on Thursday, January 3, 2013 6:51 AM

I decided to use Elmer's Stix-All, as it has a long working time, is strong, and remains flexible.  I'm pleased with how it turned out.  Thanks for all your input.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,280 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, January 3, 2013 7:00 AM

Rick, that looks great and, as I recall, the Elmer's Stix-All was your original inclination.

Nice work!

Rich

Alton Junction

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!