Hi all
Just wondering if anyone has a trackplan for a 20 x 11 space, or a smaller one that could be enlarged to that size? I have my own design underway but thought some other ideas might be useful.
Has to be round the walls shelf type maximum shelf width 22", sectional construction as it will need to be moved in a year or two.
Running modern trains so planning 30" curves. Looking for rural running along one long wall and industry on two or three of the other walls.
Bill
It would probably help if you were a bit more specific. Is this a point to point? hidden staging? center blob? waterwing? flat terrain? region?
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
As mentioned, it would help if you provided more information, especially about those dimensions. 20x11 inches or 20x11 feet? There's no way you're going to be able to reach across an 11 foot wide layout that runs along a wall.
I think the gentleman from New Zealand is looking for ideas for an around-the-walls sectional layout made up of 2 foot wide "dominoes" made popular by David Barrow, to fill his space of 11 x 20 feet. Using that concept would yeild a nice layout, which could be operated as point-to-point or continuous run and could be taken down and moved quite easily.
MUCH more info is needed here for any of us to help you as mentioned.
First, if it is to be moved in a year or two, you need to know what will fit where in your new residence.
Second, there are plenty of plans you can stretch or expand to a a layout that large, especially if you are using only sectional trackage. Almost Any size can be "blown up' or "reduced" to fit a space and adjsuted as necessary. Some busier plans may not adjust well though. Do you have a trackplan in mind that you like? Can you adapt it?
Track plans are not "pick and choose" for size like options on a new car. They are usually designed to fit a space.
What you probably could do, is look into building free standing Modular units that will fit into that space, but could be down sized or upsized as needed in a new space. You build a 2'x4' module that will stand on its own, but that can be connected to other modules that are either 2' x2' or 2'x 4'. Corner sections will be odd shaped and will be beefier {deeper} if you have 30 inch curves.
Now make a list of your "givens" and "druthers". "givens" are things you can not change, and "druthers" are things you want. Do a sommunity search inthe lower right hand margin box that says "search our community" and type in "givens adn Druthers"...you will get links to some amazing posts int threads of givens and druthers so you have a better understanding of what to do.
Try posting your givens and druthers and more information about what you would like to have on your layout..is it city or country, is it mountain or plains, is it coal mine, or factory customer oriented, is it roundy-round loops or point to point, is it double or single mainline, is there a yard or passing sidings, is it straight plan or double wishbone do you wnat an engine servicing section and would that be diesel or steam, what era {timeframe} do you want, is it freight or passenger or both? these questions and more need to be answered to help you.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Bagal:
If you are going to move in a year or two,that doesn't give you much time to get a good sized layout up and running,especially if it is going to have scenery.You might want to think about building your modules,and installing tracks and buildings so they can be easily removed.That way,when you do move,you can use your modules in any configuration that fits - a "blank slate". There is a forum member here - Canazar - who does this very well. You might check out some of his posts.
Mike
With an around-the-walls layout, the mainline is fairly well set as track going around the room. If you are going to build in module form, my recommendation would be to set up a couple of switching modules. Once built, the module can act as a self contained switching pike, and also be incorporated into a larger plan as a town or industrial area. John Allen's Time-Saver would be a good start for a switching module. You could also access the MR Track Plan Database and get some ideas for switching modules. You would then set the modules in place and then just add some track between them with a minimum amount of scenery. Mostly country scenery because it is easy to build.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Some suggestions:
1. Get "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" by John Armstrong. It's the layout planner's bible. Reading it will guarantee you come out with a better layout.
2. A year or two isn't much time when we are talking about building a model railroad. For a 20*11 layout, I would expect the take-it-down-and-move-it operation to occur long before the layout is anywhere close to finished.
3. I'd go for modular. Make the modules 22 inches wide and four feet long. That way they fit out doors and into minivans. Have four corner modules where the track makes a 90 degree turn. Make a module frame from 1 by 6 or 1 * 4 lumber. Use 3/8 inch plywood with a 2 inch foamboad topping for the module surface. Pick an economical and rugged connector to carry track power and turnout power from module to module. Use C-clamps to join one module to the next. Our modular club fits a set of foldup legs to each module. They are a little wobbly, but after we set the whole thing up and clamp all the modules together it's sturdy enough.
4. Go with walkaround control, the engineer follows his train around the layout on foot and throws turnouts and selects blocks using controls mounted on the fascia. No central control panel, saving on a LOT of wiring.
5. Provide a main line loop. There is much satisfaction in putting a train on the track and just letting it run while you admire it. It's a hobby, might as well enjoy it.
6. Provide staging (storage) tracks, upon which you have ready-to-run trains. When you want a change of train, bring the train on the main line into a storage track and then run one of the other trains out onto the main line. Storage tracks can be hidden from view, or out in plain sight. Passing sidings make fine storage tracks.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com