Jamie, the form-board texture was done with X-Acto #11 and #17 blades, but is not that noticeable on the castings. I haven't got around to weathering any of them, yet, and that may help to bring out the detail. In fact, if I find time in the next few days, I'll see what can be done in that regard, and will post some photos here.
Wayne
Wow timing is everything. I have not been on the MR forums in quite a while but came on today searching for information on casting plaster bridge piers and abutments and I find this gem of a post by doctorwayne showing me the way. These pictures are exactly what I was looking for--thanks for posting! I do have one question regarding the board lines on the casting for the piers--did you scribe those or use some type of textured sheet? I realize either would work; just wondering how you did yours. Again- thanks for the help in this timely post. Jamie
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WWtrain ....Does anyone use plaster castings for bridge abutments?
....Does anyone use plaster castings for bridge abutments?
Sure. I make simple moulds from .060" sheet styrene, then fill them with Durabond 90 patching plaster. The moulds are built upside-down, as the top of the pier or abutment needs to suit the bridge which will be placed upon it. The mould is then filled to the appropriate height. If you make the mould deep enough, it can be used to create piers and abutments of different heights - useful when you're using a standard style of bridge over different depths of terrain. Here are some photos:
This one was used to make the piers shown in the background:
This one was used to make the abutment in the background. Once it was in place, the forms for the wings were blocked in place, then the plaster poured in behind them:
This mould has a skewed triangular cross-section, roughly mirroring the cliffside where it was to be placed. Once the plaster set, but before it was fully-hardened, I removed it from the mould and used a utility knife to carve the rear face to match the terrain. A little fresh plaster was spread onto the back of the carved abutment, then it was squished into place:
Here's the same area as viewed from the layout:
Boise Nampa & Owyhee Woodland Scenics has a line of hydrocal wall castings that can be used for a LOT of stuff. They come in random stone, cut stone and I think a brick. Usually in a three pack ? I made a mold from it and cast a bunch of' 'em later. I don't recall seeing a copyright mark...... I cut them to shape with a fine tooth band saw and it works really well. The dust gets everywhere. see ya Bob
Woodland Scenics has a line of hydrocal wall castings that can be used for a LOT of stuff.
They come in random stone, cut stone and I think a brick. Usually in a three pack ?
I made a mold from it and cast a bunch of' 'em later. I don't recall seeing a copyright mark......
I cut them to shape with a fine tooth band saw and it works really well.
The dust gets everywhere.
see ya
Bob
This is where a shop-vac, a crevice tool and some inventiveness with duct tape pays BIG dividends. If you suck it up at the source, it doesn't have a chance to get much of anywhere.
If you cut plywood or foam with a saber saw it's a good idea to have that crevice tool in the other hand...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Thanks for the info. Does anyone use plaster castings for bridge abutments?
Modeling the Maine Central in N scale.
Due to having a plethora of bridges, and modeling a non-American prototype, I scratchbuild almost everything having to do with elevated structures.
The basic abutment can be a chunk of wood or even a piece of steel stud (my layout has steel stud benchwork.) Stonework, both carefully fitted and rough, can be carved in linoleum with gouges and then painted. Concrete can be simulated by using anything with a smooth, non-grainy surface and some appropriately-pigmented paint. Thick paint laid on horizontally can even simulate the effect of concrete poured into forms with horizontal boards.
Piers are made the same way as abutments, except that all sides have to be detailed.
Expecting to find ready-made abutments and piers that would even be within reaching range (or sniper rifle range) of my requirements would be the impossible dream - so I never bothered to look.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - inexpensively)
I have made them out of extruded foam covered with acrylic paint mixed with a bit of plaster of Paris to give them a toothy look. I did a relatively poor job, but convinced myself that it is a very worthy idea. It just needs better skills than I had at the time.
Last summer I build my outdoors diorama and used leftover sheet styrene from kits to fashion abutments. I think they turned out okay for a first effort.
Crandell
Go to the Connecticut Valley Model RR groups site, www.cvrr.railfan.net/cvmrr and click on Crawford Notch Layout. The piers you see are made from insulation board (pink/blue) and scribed with a ballpoint pen, then painted.
I have seen this layout at their shows and they look good. Can make any size needed. Also can cut the foam smoothly and paint to look like concrete.
Have fun,
Richard
Usually the size of the abutment depends on how high the bridge is from the land under it.
Most of the time it is more economical to build your own because it can be a challenge to buy one the right size the first time, unless you can go to a hobby shop and look at them. I usually use wood. If I want to simulate stone or brick, I cover it with some embossed sheet material.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
In N, using balsa or basswood painted to look like concrete will work for those. If you want stone or brick, probably a lot easier to use storebought.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Where do you get bridge abutments? Do you scratch build them yourselves or do you recommend a certain one? Thank you!