I am building a lake and a wide river on my layout. I would love to see photos from everyone's lakes and rivers on their layouts. Got any lakes and rivers photos? Please show them off and give me some ideas! Thanks!
No takers for their lakers? I guess I'll go first, then...
This river was gouged out of extruded foam, and the riverbed was then lined and sealed with hydrocal. While it was still sloppy, I sprinkled some pebbles over the pour to keep the pebble tops clean.
The hydrocal had a dollop of tan paint in it, maybe a bit of burnt umber, I forget which. Maybe a mix of both.
Once it was dry, I sealed the edges with masking tape and then poured two layers of a two-part finish quality epoxy available at paints stores and hardware stores. Each pour was about 1/8" thick. A couple of years later I added one more layer (got tired of the glassy unrealistic water surface that was also drinking water clear), but this time I added a half drop of Hauder Medium Green acrylic craft paint and a pinch of plaster of Paris powder. It foamed a bit during the mix, and went on opaque. It dried nicely with no bubbles. When it was set up, I covered the surface with a thin layer of gel gloss medium and stippled it with the side of a small foam brush applicator.
John,
You will get replies from people who are both much better modelers and much better photographers than I am, but I'll start things off:
This was a diorama that I made for a demonstration a couple of years ago. The river is made from acrylic gloss medium over painted plywood. The stream coming down the hill is made from acrylic gloss gel, dry-brushed with white gloss acrylic paint to simulate rapids.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Alton Junction
Nice river scene Rich!!! I still can't believe how great the turned out, with the tugboat.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
A view from the north shore of Lake Erie:
...and the same area from a different perspective:
...and from overhead:
A river scene:
Another river:
...and the same scene as viewed from the air:
All "water" is Durabond 90 patching plaster on plywood. It was worked with drywall knives to create ripples, waves, etc., then brush-painted with latex house paint. "White water" effects were added with a small brush and Pollyscale paint, then the entire surface was given three coats of high gloss water-based clear urethane, applied with a brush. The surface is very tough and has withstood several years-worth of cameras placed on it for pictures like the ones shown.
Wayne
Motley Nice river scene Rich!!! I still can't believe how great the turned out, with the tugboat.
Thanks, Michael, I was pretty pleased how that all turned out.
Rich
This quiet stream flows under a trestle at one end of my layout.
Beyond the trestle, it gets narrower:
On the other side of that stone road bridge, it becomes a mill pond.
At the other end of town, there's a swampy area. The beavers have built a dam and created their own swimming hole.
All of these were dug out ouf pink foam. I covered the rough foam with plaster cloth and then sealed that with white glue. Next, I added a skim-coat of Gypsolite to provide a gritty surface, and painted that. I typically used 3 or 4 thin layers of Envirotex. Each layer was tinted a bit differently with a drop or two of craft paint - dark colors for the deeper water, up to a light green for the top.
I added various flora and fauna as I went along. Envirotex is quite reflective, so having overhanging trees gives a nice effect. For the final shot with the beaver swimming, I took a Musket Miniatures casting of a beaver and shaved the "hull" to produce a "waterline model." I glued that to the previous pour of Envirotex and then did the final pour around it, so that most of the animal was under the murky swamp water. Preiser makes the waterfowl, which are just glued to the top layer.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Though the trackage of the Yuba River Sub often follows the course of the aforenamed river, the river itself is modeled largely 'off-set'. However, I do have one fairly large reservoir that the railroad crosses--Bullard's Bar, which is on the confluence of the Middle Fork and Oregon Creek.
It's great for fishing, swimming and playing hookey from school.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Here are some of what I have been working on...
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Well this is what I ended up doing today after some inspiration from you guys. It's my first river so don't be too hard on me. I still have to buy and apply some woodland scenics water effects around the rocks.
I think that your water looks pretty good, John, but I'm not sold on the rocks. Perhaps the addition of the water effects will make them look less incongruous.
I do give you full marks for your first attempt: too many modellers procrastinate until they become too scared to even make an attempt. And bear in mind that while it's nice to get compliments on your work, you are the one that needs most to be impressed with your efforts.
I have to agree with Wayne on this one. The water looks terrific, especially for a first time effort. But, the rocks don't look realistic. They appear too big and sporadically placed in the water. You might try removing them and using similarly dimensioned rocks of less height. But, overall, the scene looks great. My compliments.
I pulled the rocks, but it pulled up the paint and the water directly around it. So I'm repainting the area where the rocks were since it shows white underneath. Then I'm going to apply a little puddle of realistic water to each area. After that dries I'm going to apply another 1/8" layer of realistic water to hopefully make it look smooth on the surface again.
doctorwayne ...and the same scene as viewed from the air: All "water" is Durabond 90 patching plaster on plywood. It was worked with drywall knives to create ripples, waves, etc., then brush-painted with latex house paint. "White water" effects were added with a small brush and Pollyscale paint, then the entire surface was given three coats of high gloss water-based clear urethane, applied with a brush. The surface is very tough and has withstood several years-worth of cameras placed on it for pictures like the ones shown. Wayne
Have to compliment you on your water ways Dr. Wayne!!
My Other Half {MOH}, looking over my shoulder, thought that these were real pics...well they ARE real pics...I mean pics of a real loco and that the water was real....until I revealed that it was fake water! and it was a model train!
The "muddy water" looks like our local river, the Susquehanna, which is supposed to mean "muddy waters" in Native American tongue.
If only all model water could look this way.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Thanks for your very kind words, Galaxy. I based that particular river on the Grand River in southern Ontario, about 25 miles from here. I happened to cross it yesterday, and it's in its usually springtime state of muddiness. After the excess water has made its way to Lake Erie, it'll return to it's normal (in this area, anyway) placid state.
On my layout, I called it the Maitland River, another southern Ontario river, although that one runs into Lake Huron. (The Grand River, on most areas of my layout, is actually represented by the aisle.)
I modelled the fictional Maitland to hopefully represent where it empties into Lake Erie, and when viewed at eye-level, I think that it looks reasonably believeable. (Layout height here is only 34", with a second level yet to be built over this part of the layout.) However, when viewed by standing visitors, they often ask what I have in mind for a backdrop. I've considered adding a smudge of smoke (painted) on the "sky" to represent a passing laker, but am afraid it will begin to look tired pretty quickly. I do have to admit, though, that when viewed from above, the illusion is pretty-much shot.
Dr Wayne, you do some mighty fine work :)
John Rocks will tend to gather in spots where the current is slower. You might try some smaller gravel along the river banks and make a shallow beach . Or another good idea would be a sandbar somewhere in the middle of the river. Using larger rocks like you did is still OK , but you want to think about where the water would be more shallow and where they would naturally come to rest. HTH.....Mike
Looks great, Wayne.
My water is two-part epoxy resin. I usually tint it if I want it to look deep. I spend a lot of time preparing the riverbed with sand, small rocks [glued down with PVA] and paint. Ripples can be worked in with a skewer as the resin sets, or created by trailing small amounts of resin over the surface after it has dried.
This water was poured in three tinted layers - brown then green then blue-green
A view of the shallow river before the bridge is installed. Backscene is only temporary
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
My thanks to both Mikec6201 and mikelhh for your kind comments.
Mikelhh, not only does your water look great, but you've really nailed the colours, and I'm not referring to only those of the water. The rock fill, the streamside mud, and the vegetation on the embankment is right on the money. I swear as a kid I've waded in that stream in your fourth photo - the green shale in the silt on the bottom of the pool in the lower-mid foreground is very representative of streams around this area. You've also done a superb job on blending the scenes into the backdrops.
As for your fifth photo, I'm still not sure that it's not real. Your work is very reminiscent of some which I've seen in either MR or RMC, although the name of the author eludes me. Have your photos been featured in either of those magazines? If not, they should be - very nicely rendered scenes.
Wayne - thank you very much for your kind comments!
I've been fortunate enough to have had three photos in MR over the past few years.
Mike
Riverbed sceniced with sand, small talus and rock castings (all glued down with dilute matte medium). India ink diluted with alcohol brused in and used to color sand in bottom of riverbed to make the illusion of depth and variation in depth. Water simulated with a single, 1/8 inclh layer of Envirotex. Ripples added with a small brush and some clear gloss medium. Eddies around rocks made with gloss medium paste, dry-brushed with white acrylic latex.
This is what it looks like now that I've removed the rocks and added an additional layer. I also added a drop off for a little water effects right under the bridge.
That looks terrific. Nice job.
Well done John. I like it!
mike
Thanks for your help. Now if I can ever get to your guys level I will be super pleased.
johngriffey18ca1 ...... I've removed the rocks and added an additional layer. I also added a drop off for a little water effects right under the bridge.
...... I've removed the rocks and added an additional layer. I also added a drop off for a little water effects right under the bridge.
That made a world of difference, John. Nice work.
Did a search on rivers and saw your reply. Pictures look great. Want to use your method as I have foam on plywood, i.e.:
Question:
How thick a layer of Durabond was applied in your method.. Used a drywall knife on a test piece which resulted in a thin layer. Was thinking of applying 1/16" and sanding smooth.
Note- Five years into my retirement hobby. Every task was/is a major information gathering effort.
Thanks in advance for your help.
J_E_B
Thanks for your kind words, J_E_B.
The Durabond in the two rivers shown is probably 1/8" thick at most, while that in the Lake Erie scene is over 1" - the hardshell scenery there was quite a bit lower than track level and I hadn't originally planned for it to be a water scene. The Durabond can be applied in just about any thickness without fear of cracking, although the base material needs to be strong - if it flexes or deforms under excess weight (such as if you leaned over the layout whilst supporting yourself on the "water") I'd guess that it would crack. Durabond dries extremely hard and is very difficult to sand (there's a notation regarding this on the bag). If you want a totally smooth surface, you may have skill enough to accomplish it with a drywall knife. You could also make a very watery mix, and allow it to self-level. I'd try a test run first, though - you want it to not only level, but to also set-up hard. I do know that there's quite a bit of leeway in the Durabond/water ratios, but a test or two should point out the limits.
If you want a perfectly smooth water surface, you might have better results using an already-smooth surface such as Masonite, drywall, or paint-grade plywood. Paint on your selection of "water" colours, then coat with the clear finish. You could also use the same technique but finish with a pour of any of the commercially-available "water" products: after all, much of the finished appearance is an illusion created with colour.