Rich,
There is a video on U tube of it, just google Walthers Bascule Bridge.
woodman Rich, There is a video on U tube of it, just google Walthers Bascule Bridge.
woodman,
Thanks. There are two videos of the bridge in motion, pretty cool.
That helped a lot to give me a good look at the assembled bridge and the various colors of the components.
Rich
Alton Junction
I look forward to seeing your finished project!
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Yes I have built it.
The reed switch in the bridge building is worthless. It's totally not reliable. This is a common complaint.
There are several alternatives available. A favorite is a single pole double throw pressure contact switch (microswitch) at the end of the bridge. However you have to be careful to not raise the bridge too high.
http://www.surplustraders.net/a/0113.shtml
There are two metal pins which the bridge rotate around. Don't force these through, as they will bend. Widen the hole a little if you need to.
I can get you the downward auto stopping circuit if you need it rich. I designed it myself
-D
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
DigitalGriffin Yes I have built it. The reed switch in the bridge building is worthless. It's totally not reliable. This is a common complaint. There are several alternatives available. A favorite is a single pole double throw pressure contact switch (microswitch) at the end of the bridge. However you have to be careful to not raise the bridge too high. http://www.surplustraders.net/a/0113.shtml There are two metal pins which the bridge rotate around. Don't force these through, as they will bend. Widen the hole a little if you need to. I can get you the downward auto stopping circuit if you need it rich. I designed it myself -D
DG,
Thanks for that photo.
I have read elsewhere that the reed switch is totally unreliable and that the early version used a 6 volt motor. The later version uses a 12 volt motor and micro switches.
The fellow in this video worked up a more reliable 12 volt motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMRde4RQ2pg&feature=related
Any help or advice with the circuit that you designed would be most appreciated.
I have it and it is the most maddening model I have ever built. They must have made two versions (mine had a micro switches, not reed) because in some steps, the parts didn't match up with the instructions. If you take your time, you can figure out how it should go. The thing that irked me the most was the prominent mold lines in the structural shapes. Many I was able to scrape off, but for a lot I cut thin pieces of styrene and covered them up. I'm fighting the flu, but I'll try to get downstairs and snap some pictures.
Don
HobbyDr's Workbench
HobbyDr I have it and it is the most maddening model I have ever built. They must have made two versions (mine had a micro switches, not reed) because in some steps, the parts didn't match up with the instructions. If you take your time, you can figure out how it should go. The thing that irked me the most was the prominent mold lines in the structural shapes. Many I was able to scrape off, but for a lot I cut thin pieces of styrene and covered them up. I'm fighting the flu, but I'll try to get downstairs and snap some pictures. Don
Don,
Hope you feel better soon. Thanks for the reply. I look forward to your photos.
Yes, there were two releases on the Walthers Bascule Bridge. I bought mine new from a dealer on eBay and now I am not sure if I have the early version or the later version. So far, I have only opened the box and read through the instructions. So, I am not sure if I have the reed switches or the micro switches.
That was less than encouraging to read of your difficulties in assembling the bridge. I will watch out for that problem.
I hope to have this bridge be an operating model. It will be placed on a lift out section that crosses an aisle. So, I need to learn more about the motor and the switches. The two YouTube videos and text speak of differences between a 6 volt motor and a 12 volt motor and reed switches versus micro switches. I have a learning curve facing me.
The reed switch comes out of the motor house and extends to the right side bridge lift beam. If you look inside the motor house it contains a circuit board with two diodes. The reed switch sweeps across the surface of this board.
I have yet to see the microswitch model. From the sounds of it, I hope you got the later edition.
It's really not that maddening. This was like the 5th kit I put together, and I didn't have any real problems other than inserting the bridge pivot pins.
I have thought about redoing mine a second time, and inserting a "cam" on the side of the bridge, and hiding the switches with the bridge house.
If you want a closeup picture of any of the assemblies, let me know.
DigitalGriffin The reed switch comes out of the motor house and extends to the right side bridge lift beam. If you look inside the motor house it contains a circuit board with two diodes. The reed switch sweeps across the surface of this board. I have yet to see the microswitch model. From the sounds of it, I hope you got the later edition. It's really not that maddening. This was like the 5th kit I put together, and I didn't have any real problems other than inserting the bridge pivot pins. I have thought about redoing mine a second time, and inserting a "cam" on the side of the bridge, and hiding the switches with the bridge house. If you want a closeup picture of any of the assemblies, let me know.
Here are two photos of the motor with the reed switch showing on one photo and the two diodes showing in the other photo.
I am interested in how you integrated the motor into the bridge and what modifications, if any, you made to the electronic setup (e.g.micro switches, 12 volt motor, etc.).
Rich, I didn't mean to discourage you. I'm someone who assembles models in the order that suits my whim. This model is one that absolutely, positively has to be built exactly in the order the instructions require. And this isn't a 'pick-up/put-down' project. Only start a step if you have the time to completely finish. It just required a lot of concentration. It was a humbling, yet satisfying experience. Actually, it's not over. I had just finished the sub-asemblies when something came up, so I still have final-assembly and painting to do. Good Luck
HobbyDr Rich, I didn't mean to discourage you. I'm someone who assembles models in the order that suits my whim. This model is one that absolutely, positively has to be built exactly in the order the instructions require. And this isn't a 'pick-up/put-down' project. Only start a step if you have the time to completely finish. It just required a lot of concentration. It was a humbling, yet satisfying experience. Actually, it's not over. I had just finished the sub-asemblies when something came up, so I still have final-assembly and painting to do. Good Luck Don
Thanks for that. I didn't find your comments discouraging at all. I found them helpful because my reaction was too take my time and go at it in an organized manner.
I have built a lot of structures over the past seven years for my layout but never a bridge.
Ironically, I have two of the Walthers Cornerstone Double Truss Bridges, and they were the first two structures on my layout, but my wife volunteered to build them for me. Maybe I should implore her to build this monster.
That would be the reed version, same as mine, sorry to report.
The circuit I set up is very very simple. I took out the reed board and connected the wires directly to the moror.
Below is the circuit I may replace it with. My original circuit just had 1 SPDT micro switch & 1 diode in parallel. I put the microswitch at the far end of the bridge near the pier end cap. When the bridge came down, it would press on the microswitch cutting current. However reversing the current would still allow it to come up because of the diode. In my original circuit, you would have to stop it manually once it reached the top.
If I were to do it again, I would use two of the micro switch circuits and a rotating cam attached to the side of the bridge pivot point. That way it would stop when it reaches the top. (See diagram below)
I'll get you photos of my circuit if you have any question.
Another thing, the motor mount plates are slide in place between 8 thin pegs which hold it there. When I opened my kit up, two of the pegs snapped off. I super glued mine back in place. (Luckily they were still in the box)
Oh and when it's finally assembled, it may not be completely flat at the four support points of the bridge. My rocked a tad bit. It was nothing a little sanding didn't take care of. But it can get tricky when one of the legs you have to sand has the wire coming out of it.
Thanks for that diagram and those comments.
I plan to start assembly of the bascule bridge this coming week, and I will get back to you and all who are following this thread.
I'll be following this thread as well since I'm in need of a bascule bridge for an area of my layout. But I hadn't really considered the Walthers kit due to the long span. But now that there's someone who has a kit and it's open perhaps you can answer a couple questions for me.
What is the footprint of the base? And does it appear that the span can be shortened from the 21" that I've read it is? I'd need 10-12" span.
Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction
ruderunner I'll be following this thread as well since I'm in need of a bascule bridge for an area of my layout. But I hadn't really considered the Walthers kit due to the long span. But now that there's someone who has a kit and it's open perhaps you can answer a couple questions for me. What is the footprint of the base? And does it appear that the span can be shortened from the 21" that I've read it is? I'd need 10-12" span.
ruderunner.
Here are the dimensions: Span=21.50", Approach=7.25",Counterweight=5.50".
So, the entire footprint is 34.25" in length.
It would appear that the only way to shorten the span would be to kitbash.
Wow that's truly huge. Way too big for what I need. I guess I'll have to scratchbuild, UGH!
ruderunner, before I scored the Cornerstone Bascule Bridge on e-Bay, I was playing with two Walthers' double-track truss bridges, figuring how to bash them into a bascule bridge. Very promising. If you get two of them, or two of the single-track version, I think you will be inspired.
I started construction of the Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge today. It is not for the inexperienced or faint of heart. I am using every form of weight and bracing known to man - - - and then some.
The instructions are awful. Parts are mentioned by number in the text that do not appear on the instruction sheet diagrams. Parts are illustrated and numbered on the instruction sheet but are not mentioned in the text of the instructions. Some parts have duplicate numbers with other parts. LOL
I am not worried because I have done enough of the Walthers Cornerstone kits to fee comfortable. You just have to take it slow.
Like any bridge kit, there are several four sided parts, so to speak. For example, the girder sides have matching outside and inside frameworks that must be glued together for both the left side and the right side of the bridge, then joined together. So, I am painting parts as I go. For Instance, the inside piece of each pair is getting painted while I can still reach it with a brush, allowed to dry, then glued to its mate. I will paint the outside, top and bottom later.
There is also a little warpage on the track bed of all places but it too is fixable. The other issue is with the counterweight. It does not fit completely square, so I will use some epoxy to cover the gaps. With sanding and painting, it will not be noticeable.
Walthers says to add 5 ounces of weight inside the counterweight. Gee, thanks for including the 5 ounces of weight, not.
At some point, I will need to stop assembly and deal with the motor because that needs to be enclosed in the bridge house. Digital Griffin, if you are reading this, I sent you a PM (Conversation) on your electrical diagram).
I will post some photos as I get further into the assembly process.
RICH;
In regards to the counter weight on the Bascule Bridge leave the hatch cover off the weight
and after You have it on the Bridge take a funnel and add sand to it about half full. That is what
I did to mine and it works perfect. I had it since they first came out.
HAVE FUN FRANK
I bought mine several years ago and it is still in the box. Thanks for the “heads up” on the construction problems.
Doc
zstripe RICH; In regards to the counter weight on the Bascule Bridge leave the hatch cover off the weight and after You have it on the Bridge take a funnel and add sand to it about half full. That is what I did to mine and it works perfect. I had it since they first came out. HAVE FUN FRANK
Frank,
Thanks,
I thought about doing just that, but this morning, I added 5 ounces of automobile wheel lead weights before sealing the counterweight. The weights come with double faced tape, so it all worked pretty easily. Then, I sealed that cap on that you are referring to.
ruderunnerWhat is the footprint of the base? And does it appear that the span can be shortened from the 21" that I've read it is? I'd need 10-12" span.
Hi, if you're not committed to it being a truss bridge, the old AHM Rolling Bridge is easy to convert longer or shorter since it's a plate bridge. I got one off EBay a few years ago. Actually, it's been packaged under various brands over the ages.
On the N scale model, the base tracks are 2 7/16" and the deck is 4 7/8"
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&source=imghp&biw=1135&bih=651&q=ahm+rolling+bridge&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=
Rich...
I feel your pain. I kitbashed a couple of old AHM and Pola circa 1960s rolling lift bridges to get what I needed for my layout and it wasn't easy. But I was determined to make it work and in the end, I think that it did (see below).
Yikes! I have two more of these *** bridges to build on the layout. I'm still engineering the motorized lift mechanism from under the layout for the first one...ect...ect...ect!
Anyway, good luck with the Walthers kit. I think you'll come through with flying colors when all is said and done!
Jerry
Sorry Rich, I didn't intend to start a hijack! Thanks for the advise guys but this is supposed to be a thread about the Walther bridge.
ruderunner Sorry Rich, I didn't intend to start a hijack! Thanks for the advise guys but this is supposed to be a thread about the Walther bridge.
ruderunner,
This is outrageous, you Hijacker you.
LOL
Just kidding.
Actually, several replies have obviously responded sympathetically to your plight, and I find it all very interesting.
When it comes to the subject of bridges, there is just not a lot of variety out there in available kits. The Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge is a good example, being retired and out of production for some years now, and very limited availability.
I am interested in eventually building a lift bridge like the PRR lift bridge over the south branch of the Chicago River here in Chicago. To my knowledge no similar lift bridge is available, so I would have to scratch build this model.
So, any comments or replies that are bridge related are fine with me.
Rich, have you seen the lift bridge from CMR? I intend to get one and have already figured out the placement on the layout. It's kind of big but I won't be using the approach spans since the bridge I model has towers on shore, 16" span 28.75 with towers and a fair bit longer if you use the approaches.
The bascule on my layout will be right behind the lift bridge and slightly angled from it. It will have to be a truss style. If anyone has ever had Burning River ale it's pictured on the label, the upright girder thing in the picture. Former B+O bridge.
For a short term fix I'll just use an Atlas or Bachman through truss bridge and figure out if one can be bashed into a bascule. That way I can use the tracks and know that whatever I do build will install easily. Function isn't an issue, heck the prototype hasn't been used in decades but it is still standing.
ruderunner Rich, have you seen the lift bridge from CMR? I intend to get one and have already figured out the placement on the layout. It's kind of big but I won't be using the approach spans since the bridge I model has towers on shore, 16" span 28.75 with towers and a fair bit longer if you use the approaches. The bascule on my layout will be right behind the lift bridge and slightly angled from it. It will have to be a truss style. If anyone has ever had Burning River ale it's pictured on the label, the upright girder thing in the picture. Former B+O bridge. For a short term fix I'll just use an Atlas or Bachman through truss bridge and figure out if one can be bashed into a bascule. That way I can use the tracks and know that whatever I do build will install easily. Function isn't an issue, heck the prototype hasn't been used in decades but it is still standing.
I had not seen that CMR lift bridge, but that is something to behold. At $296, that is not cheap.
Here is a link:
http://www.custommodelrailroads.com/liftbridge-1.aspx
For those who are interested, once on the site, click on View More Images for a 7-photo display of the lift bridge.
Since I loosely model the area south of downtown Chicago as part of my layout, I now have to use all of my power of resistance to avoid making that purchase. Thanks for nothing, ruderunner. LOL
Scratchbuilding a smaller version of rhe Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge should be possible. Let us know if you decide to do it, ruderunner, and, of course, post photos. If you like, I can scan the instruction sheets for the Walthers bascule bridge and email them to you. You could use the parts illustrations to assist you in any scratchbuilding effort.
No it's not cheap but neither is the bascule bridge. Interestingly they sell the bridge as single track but at least one picture shows double track, maybe for a few dollars morw they can kit one up that way?
As for scratchbuilding my bridge, I need to find the photos we took years ago. Since I'm more concerned with appearance than function I won't have to be too concerned with actual dimensions and selective compression may get in the way anyhow. For the short term as long as my trains can cross the river I'll be happy.
That CMR lift bridge kit is really nice. In fact,CMR makes a lot of nice stuff. (They are at the Timmonium show every year) I would LOVE for them to build a Richmond VA train station for me. But I doubt I have the $$$ for a custom model service they offer. I started scratch building one, but then I gave up about 10% the way through it.
It's static display though. (In otherwords, the lift mechanism is just for looks) I bet I could rig something up to get it to work though. :-) It depends on if there are "guide" rails for the bridge to raise up and down on to keep it in alignment.
I am making good progress on the painting and assembly of the bascule bridge, and I hope to post some photos of this work in progress this weekend.
The Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge is based on the Baltimore & Ohio Chicago Terminal (B&OCT) prototype constructed in Chicago during the 1920s, spanning the south branch of the Chicago River just north of 16th Street. It is a single leaf bascule bridge designed by the Strauss Bascule Bridge Co. of Chicago.
For anyone who may be more interested in the detail, here is a link to an excellent 33-page document including some wonderful drawings of the bascule bridge in motion on page 19 of the document:
http://www.historicbridges.org/illinois/sbrr/haer-il-157.pdf
DigitalGriffin Another thing, the motor mount plates are slide in place between 8 thin pegs which hold it there. When I opened my kit up, two of the pegs snapped off. I super glued mine back in place. (Luckily they were still in the box)
This is very interesting. I recall reading this when you first posted it on 2-4-11. Now, it is 2-13-11, and I am in the process of assembling the motor and the gears on the metal rods. Two of those 8 thin pegs are simply missing from the floor of the machine shed where the motor is mounted. I did not break them off but, like your kit, they were laying in the bottom of the box along with some loose parts for the motor mounts. Probably all due to poor packaging design.
I have now completed all of the sub assemblies. The next step is to complete the gear work and switching assembly. Then, the sub assemblies must be connected together to finish the construction of the bascule bridge.
I did run into one obstacle. The plastic gears need to be inserted into specific spots on the metal rods (shafts). However, the center hole on the gears was small enough that I simply could not force the gears into place on the metal rods. Finally, in desperation, I took a small tool and lightly "reamed" the hole in the center of the gear. That worked and I got the gear on the shaft. However, while the gear did not spin freely, it did slip on the shaft instead of turning the shaft. Not good. So, I lightly roughed up the shaft with a metal file, then coated the spot for the gear with CA adhesive and slipped the gear into place. After letting the glue dry for a few hours, I then placed epoxy on either side of the gear where it touches the shaft and let the epoxy cure overnight. That worked and the gears are now firmly in place.
Here are some photos of the sub assemblies.
The first photo is the truss bridge superstructure:
The second photo is the rocking truss. This rocking truss rotates to lift and lower the truss bridge:
The third photo is the walking beam support shown on the left which links the rocking truss to the truss brdige superstructure. The strut is the assembly shown on the right which provides additional support to the rocking truss and stabilizes the counterweight:
The fourth photo is the A-frame which is the only fixed portion of the bridge, supporting the rocking truss and walking beam support:
The fifth photo is the counterweight which is held in place by the rocking truss and stabilized by the strut:
Not shown in these photos are two sub assemblies that I have yet to complete (1) the machine shed which house the motor and main gear assembly and (2) the bridge tender's house which sits astride the A-frame.
I will provide photos later of the completed bascule bridge and a short video of the bridge in operation.
After 12 days of constant painting, gluing and assembling, I have reached the point where I can post a photo of the nearly completed bascule bridge, although I still need to put the staircases and handrails on the bridge tender house.
HobbyDr pointed out in an earlier reply that this model is one that absolutely, positively, has to be built exactly in the order the instructions require. And it isn't a 'pick-up/put-down' project. Only start a step if you have the time to completely finish. It just required a lot of concentration. His words, not mine. But, truer words were never spoken.
I got sidetracked when I had to epoxy the plastic gears on the metal rods. When I got back to the assembly process, I tried to work from memory instead of re-reading the instructions, and I paid the price. I made about four or five mistakes that had to be corrected before I got back on track.
Next up is the electronics wiring to make the bridge operational. I have already got it to operate, but I need to finalize the electronics, then I will post a video.
Rich, It looks really nice. Can't wait to see it operate in the video. The more pain you endure building something, the more satisfaction you get in the end, in my experiences.
I've seen these models operate before and they are really something to watch!
I have reached an impasse, so I am posting this in the hopes that someone can help me with my current problem.
When I first tested the electronics on Friday afternoon, the bridge would jam halfway up in the lift process. So I disconnected the racks that hold the gear boxes and tried to raise the bridge manually. It still jammed at the same spot.
After a few hours of tinkering, I realized that I had put the walking beam support in place backwards. So, I removed the metal rods and reversed the walking beam support, then re-inserted the rods.
Once I did that, the bridge could be manually lifted all the way up, so putting the support in the correct way solved the jamming problem. However, I could no longer lift the bridge electronically with the racks back in place and the motor operating. I could lift the bridge electronically if I helped it along with my fingers but not on its own.
If I disconnect the racks from the bridge, the gears pull the racks back, so the bridge should lift when the racks are connected, but no go. I looked at the gears and the motor shaft. When the racks are connected to the bridge, the gears spin but the motors shaft does not. If I disconnect the racks from the bridge, the gears spin, the motor shaft turns, and the racks retract as they are supposed to do.
So, for some reason, with the racks connected to the bridge, the bridge will not lift. Yet, before I solved the jamming problem by correctly installing the walking beam support, the bridge did lift electronically.
I am a wit's end with this latest problem.
Incidentally, the bridge lowers perfectly every time electronically from an upright position.
Any thoughts, comments, advice?
In reply to Your problem. Try to remove one of the racks from the bridge and then try to lift it
I was able to lift mine with just one rack on and no counter weight on It sounds like one of the racks
is binding GOOD LUCK FRANK
zstripe Rich, In reply to Your problem. Try to remove one of the racks from the bridge and then try to lift it I was able to lift mine with just one rack on and no counter weight on It sounds like one of the racks is binding GOOD LUCK FRANK
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried it, removing one rack from the bridge and then the other. Neither worked with the other released.
I have pretty much tried everything at this point. Removed all of the connecting rods and tried slightly smaller ones (less diameter). That didn't help either. There is no binding in the moving parts of the bridge. I removed the counterweight. That did not help.
I am ready to throw in the towel. Nothing works.
If I give the bridge some assistance with my fingers, the motor and gear works will lift the bridge. But as soon as I stop lending assistance, the bridge stops lifting. If I disconnect the racks from the bridge, the racks continue to draw back as power is applied like they should, but not if they are re-attached to the bridge. It is as if the motor cannot provide enough power to lift the bridge. Or, that the racks are not pulling the bridge up. I am clueless.
Curiously, though, the bridge lowers flawlessly when power is applied in the opposite direction.
HELP!
Maybe you need to add a little more to the counter-weight.
Not sure if someone else mentioned this earlier, but..... Is it possible that the 6V battery just doesn't have 6V to give? If you have a DC powerpack, find the setting for 6 volts (with a meter of course) and try that for a power source. If that does the trick, then I would get TWO 6 V batteries and hook them up in parallel (I believe that is correct - again test with a meter) and that should do it.
Of course its also possible that the motor just doesn't cut it. I don't know how you would test that, but I am sure others on the site would know.
It seems like binding is pretty much ruled out as the source of the problem, so power (lack thereof) is IMHO the prime suspect.
ENJOY !!!!!
After reading MOBILMANS post I have the same feeling that the motor doesnt have the power to
lift the bridge by itself. Iwas thinking about that yesterday while watching the race Perhaps You have
a bad motor I have had no problems with mine and it is the same as yours. Maybe thats why they
switched to 12 volts
AGAIN GOOD LUCK FRANK
Hi. I've been following this thread from the start, as I also have one of these to build. I think mine is an early version. ( Love your photos ).
I wonder if just adding more power is only going to mask some other problem, and think Don may be on to something. The bridge should be neutral balance for most of its travel, and a flea-power motor should move it ok.
I'd vote to play with more weight in the counterweight, and check that the racks are identical so the gears don't get a bit out of step as they go along them.
Thanks to all for this discussion; I'm happy I haven't started building this thing yet.
Have fun, George
Hi Guys,
Here is the latest update.
First of all, and I mean this positively, you guys are all smarter than me. I despaired and was ready to give up, but I am glad that I asked for help.
I have added more weight to the counterweight, and that has solved the problem. Or, maybe it has masked the problem.
Walthers instructions call for adding 5 ounces of weight to the counterweight, and I did exactly that. However, when the bridge wouldn't lift under its own power, I started adding weight till I found just the right amount. It took 6.5 ounces of additional weight, so the required weight is 11.5 ounces, nearly 3/4 of a pound.
That bothers me. That is more than twice what Walthers suggests. I now suspect the power source. I am using a 6 volt lantern battery, and the measured output on my volt meter is 6.16 volts. But who's to say if 6 volts are reaching the motor. Maybe my wiring is too high a gauge. So, I will be investigating alternative power sources. Walthers does warn the modeler not to exceed 6 volts or the motor may burn out.
Incidentally, I do have the older version with the 6 volt motor and the reed switch. The reed switch, as others have indicated, is next to useless. I am getting help from another forum member with an alternative approach that includes micro switches. I will report back on the results. Meanwhile, I am basically operating the reed switch with my fingers.
George, good suggestion on the racks. I will look more closely to be certain that I have them aligned in sync with one another.
Thanks to everyone for all of your contributions, suggestions and advice.
I'll be back.
I only wish that I had seen your comment on the sand before I first added the lead weights.
Incidentally, do you have any problems with that reed switch?
In regards to the reed switch. I didnt use it. I also found it to be useless. I used a simple dpdt
center off switch to control it. It works fine. Im the only one controling it. so it works for me.
By the way if you would like another challenge. Try the walters swing bridge double track. Its a little
pricey but fun to build. It comes with micro switchs. and you have to buy the motor separate. also
a 300to1 12volt that also works great that one will operate on its own.By the way I was born and raised in chicago 1946 now live in the subs for the last 32 yrs glad to hear you got it going.
zstripe Rich, In regards to the reed switch. I didnt use it. I also found it to be useless. I used a simple dpdt center off switch to control it. It works fine. Im the only one controling it. so it works for me. By the way if you would like another challenge. Try the walters swing bridge double track. Its a little pricey but fun to build. It comes with micro switchs. and you have to buy the motor separate. also a 300to1 12volt that also works great that one will operate on its own.By the way I was born and raised in chicago 1946 now live in the subs for the last 32 yrs glad to hear you got it going. HAVE FUN FRANK
Very interesting. So, you just start and stop the switch manually?
Uhh, I think I will take a pass on the swing bridge. This project both tested and exhausted me. LOL
I took the switch out of the unit and just used the motor leads to the center leads of the switch,
and the other switch leads in criscross to power,and used Radio shack red and green 12vdc 60ma
bulbs to the switch running on 6v,used a 6v 300ma walwart solely for power incorperated in my
control panel. By the way,IM a DC user with some BLI sound engines with zebra stripe santa fes
I also answered the other post. TAKE CARE FRANK
Well, I am happy to report that I have finally got the bascule bridge to operate flawlessly. The clincher was adding a drop of oil on the metal connecting rods at each pivot point. Because the metal rods fit so tightly inside the plastic parts, there is a lot of friction that impedes smooth operation during the lifting and lowering process.
As soon as I get a chance to permanently install the additional required weight inside the counterweight, I will provide a short video of the bridge in operation.
But for now, I thought that it might be useful to post a checklist of steps to be followed to successfully build and operate the Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge.
1. Read the instructions thoroughly and completely and understand those instructions fully.
2. Do not lose track of the part numbers. If you remove parts from the sprue, label loose parts with their respective numbers. Many paired parts look similar, but there are subtle differences. Others, including myself, have reported some warped parts, but they can be straightened. The instructions mention some parts but don't say where they go. Other parts are illustrated but otherwise not discussed in the instructions. Some parts are numbered one way and described by other parts numbers. Some parts have the same number. Sort all of this out at the beginning as best you can.
3. Paint parts as you go taking care not to paint surfaces that are to be glued. Painting the bridge after it is fully assembled, or after a subassembly is completed, is difficult because of the number of surfaces, some of which are not easily accessible.
4. There are 7 steps. Do not start a step unless and until you are prepared to complete the step. There are a lot of things to do within each step so be prepared to commit a fair amount of time to painting and assembly.
5. Follow the step-by-step instructions methodically. Assembling parts out of order will cause later problems.
6. Step 1, the assembly of the truss bridge superstructure, is the easiest step. Just paint and glue together the various parts of this subassembly.
7. Step 2 is the assembly of the gears and shafts (metal rods). The gears are hard to get on the rods because the center holes on the gears are smaller in diameter than the 5/64" rods. Resist the temptation to ream the holes larger or to lubricate the rods. The result will be slipping gears that pin too loosely. Consider adding 2-part epoxy on each side of the gears where they touch the rods so that the gears will not spin freely once the assembly is completed. After the bridge is fully assembled, lightly lube the gears with appropriate (e.g., Labelle) gear lube.
8. Step 3 is the assembly of the A-frame and machine shed. Be careful and follow the steps in order. The gear boxes are tight fits, so have small clamps available to hold them in place once glued. The gear boxes fit onto a pair of toothed racks. Place each gear box in the same spot on each rack. This is crucial so that the racks are aligned propery and provide a square fit.
9. Step 4 is the assembly of the walking beam and walking beam support. Install the walking beam support in the right direction. Otherwise, the bridge will not fully lift, jamming if the support is installed backwards or upside down. The support looks the same from end to end at first glance, but study the drawing and install it correctly.
10. Step 4 is also the assembly of the counterweight, Use sand to fill the counterweight, not lead weights as I did, because you may need to add or subtract weight at the end of the assembly. Do not glue on the hatch until you are satisfied with the operation of the bridge. Once the bridge is fully assembled, you will need to release the racks to take tension off the gear works and allow the bridge to be moved up and down manually. With the racks released, add or subtract weight until the bridge begins to lift up on its own. That is the proper amount of weight.
11. Step 5 is the final assembly of the entire bridge works. Be careful not to bend the connecting rods ads you insert them in the pivot points. Add a drop of oil (e.g., Labelle Medium Oil) to each pivot point to ensure smooth and flawless movement up and down so that the bridge easily lifts and lowers.
12. Step 6 is the installation of the staircases and handrails on the bridge tender house. This is an easy step to complete.
13. Step 7 is the final step involving the electronics. Although some suggest that the 6 volt motor is inadequate, it seemed fine to me. I see no reason to replace it with a 12 volt motor. However, the Walthers-supplied reed switch is useless. Replace it with a micro switch or wire a Center Off DPDT switch directly to the motor. The instructions caution the user to limit the power source to 6 volts. I used a 6 volt lantern battery, and that worked quite well.
Good luck to all who attempt to build this bridge. It can be done, but it requires care and patience and attention to detail. The gears are the biggest problem. Make sure that they fit tightly and do not slip. Be sure to apply a drop of light oil to each pivot point to facilitate movement. Lastly, be sure to thoroughly test the counterweight to determine the exact amount of weight required. The instructions say to add 5 ounces, but I found that amount totally inadequate.
Hope this all helps.
Glad your bridge is working well. I am going back into the gear box and see if I can secure the main shaft gear problem as per my first post. From the other posts it is obvious that quality control at the manufacturer of these kits was slack, to say the least. You give exellent advice to those who are just starting this kit. Let me add that trial assembly of the truss halves is very helpful, as mine had considerable misalignment of the pins- receiver holes. If a new main gear shaft must be made[mine was bent] be very careful to keep a tight fit and glue the gear to the shaft as you did. Now, as I am a glutton for punishment, I would like to kit bash/ scratch build a version of this bascule type where the counter weights are carried outboard of the trunions on the counterweight arms. This type is shown on page 99 of the Bridge and Trestle Handbook by Paul Mallery, 1976 edition. Any thoughts on this project? I am going to start looking for close up details of the A-frames and counterweight construction on this version.
That's a great job of summarizing your efforts! Thanks for posting it for all to see. I'll keep it available when I start assembling my baby. I figured this would be a complicated build, but never imagined it to be quite so much.
I look forward to seeing the video.
George
barbender If a new main gear shaft must be made[mine was bent] be very careful to keep a tight fit and glue the gear to the shaft as you did. Now, as I am a glutton for punishment, I would like to kit bash/ scratch build a version of this bascule type where the counter weights are carried outboard of the trunions on the counterweight arms. This type is shown on page 99 of the Bridge and Trestle Handbook by Paul Mallery, 1976 edition. Any thoughts on this project? I am going to start looking for close up details of the A-frames and counterweight construction on this version. barbender , I don't have that book, so it is hard to comment, and an engineer I am not. However, the concept of the counterweight and its placement is beautifully explained and discussed on pages 16 to 21 of the following document. http://www.historicbridges.org/illinois/sbrr/haer-il-157.pdf The Strauss heel-trunnion single leaf bascule bridge discussed in this document is the 16th Street bridge in Chicago that Walthers modeled its bascule bridge after. Rich
If a new main gear shaft must be made[mine was bent] be very careful to keep a tight fit and glue the gear to the shaft as you did. Now, as I am a glutton for punishment, I would like to kit bash/ scratch build a version of this bascule type where the counter weights are carried outboard of the trunions on the counterweight arms. This type is shown on page 99 of the Bridge and Trestle Handbook by Paul Mallery, 1976 edition. Any thoughts on this project? I am going to start looking for close up details of the A-frames and counterweight construction on this version.
barbender ,
I don't have that book, so it is hard to comment, and an engineer I am not. However, the concept of the counterweight and its placement is beautifully explained and discussed on pages 16 to 21 of the following document.
The Strauss heel-trunnion single leaf bascule bridge discussed in this document is the 16th Street bridge in Chicago that Walthers modeled its bascule bridge after.
Here it the video of the bascule bridge in operation, first lifting, then lowering.
My next step is to get this big guy installed on my lift out section.
watch?v=hRSWbWNVTQA
Very nice Rich. Your efforts really paid off with a smoothly lifting mechanism. Can't wait to see the final installation.
Joe
Great job, look forward to seeing it installed!!
I just got your email. Very well done Rich. I think it's even smoother than mine.
Very nice Rich, action looks real smooth. I now have full travel on my bridge. I had to cut an access port in the main gear side end wall and glue the gear to the shaft. Also had to sand down the width of the top of the rack gear beam. That took care of the binding. To anyone building this kit, it really is worth the effort. You have to see-hear it move up close to appreciate it. My blood pressure is back to normal, so I think I'll tackle the swing bridge next. Rich, I am looking foward to seeing your bridge in place on your layout. I now have three bridges, no layout.
I admire your perservence on this project, Rich. It's inspiring me to get back to work on mine. Congratulations.
barbender Very nice Rich, action looks real smooth. I now have full travel on my bridge. I had to cut an access port in the main gear side end wall and glue the gear to the shaft. Also had to sand down the width of the top of the rack gear beam. That took care of the binding.
Very nice Rich, action looks real smooth. I now have full travel on my bridge. I had to cut an access port in the main gear side end wall and glue the gear to the shaft. Also had to sand down the width of the top of the rack gear beam. That took care of the binding.
barbender,
You make a good point about the top of the racks that hold the gear boxes. I may have to go back and amend my Checklist to include a comment or two on this point.
As I struggled to get the bridge to consistently lift without binding, I did notice that one source of binding seemed to be the top of each rack, probably due to the relative lack of stiffness of the plastic. Plus, plastic on plastic for moving parts can be problematic.
Sanding is a good idea. I haven't done anything yet, but I have considered applying graphite or a silicone stick to lubricate the racks and minimize friction. That, along with applying a drop of light oil on each pivot point is crucial to trouble free operation.
I should amend an earlier statement that I made about having to add extra weight to the counterweight.
I became concerned about the amount of added weight because I noticed that the motor was making a squeaking sound but only when the bridge was lowering, indicating excess weight in the counterweight.
So, I started over with the additional weight, but this time I had oiled the pivot points which I had not done previously when I had first added weight. I also smeared a drop of light oil on each rack with my finger.
As a result, I only needed about 1/2 to 2/3 of the additional weight than I first thought that I needed. And, the squeaking sound of the motor stopped, indicating that it was no longer stressed by excess weight.
A job well done.Your patience and perseverance paid off.
Are you sure you don't want to try the swing bridge???? HA HA.
Frank
rich
After watching my bridge through several cycles, I have noticed the following conditions. Note that all references to a right or left side is made from the A-frame end.
1- the right side rack beam does all the work during the lift cycle.
2- the beams are inserted into the pinion gear housings the same amount, but the bridge and A-frame assembly is slighty skewed. This results in the left end of the long rack gear rod [part #114] being displaced toward the A-frame. To correct this the left side rack gear beam would have to be moved 2-3 teeth further into the pinion housing. This can't be done, as the pinion housings are glued togeather.
3- the skew condition causes more binding during the lowering cycle, possibily because the beams go from tension load when lifting, to compression load when in lowering mode. The loaded beam may flex slightly when pushing the bridge down. The bridge may be more sensitive to counter balance weight if the skew condition exists.
4- both rack beams load about the same when the bridge is fully down, and some motor load is applied. This could affect track alignment when in operation.
zstripe Rich, A job well done.Your patience and perseverance paid off. Are you sure you don't want to try the swing bridge???? HA HA. Frank
Thanks, Frank. As for the swing bridge, I will still resist. I have had crazy thoughts over the last 48 hours of scratchbuilding a lift bridge, but I am sure that I will come to my senses before it is too late.
barbender rich After watching my bridge through several cycles, I have noticed the following conditions. Note that all references to a right or left side is made from the A-frame end. 1- the right side rack beam does all the work during the lift cycle. 2- the beams are inserted into the pinion gear housings the same amount, but the bridge and A-frame assembly is slighty skewed. This results in the left end of the long rack gear rod [part #114] being displaced toward the A-frame. To correct this the left side rack gear beam would have to be moved 2-3 teeth further into the pinion housing. This can't be done, as the pinion housings are glued togeather. 3- the skew condition causes more binding during the lowering cycle, possibily because the beams go from tension load when lifting, to compression load when in lowering mode. The loaded beam may flex slightly when pushing the bridge down. The bridge may be more sensitive to counter balance weight if the skew condition exists. 4- both rack beams load about the same when the bridge is fully down, and some motor load is applied. This could affect track alignment when in operation.
The more experience I gained while building this bridge, the more I realized how critical the racks are to the lifting and lowering process. Your observations are all appropriate. In the instructions, Walthers says to "place the rack, tooth side down, on the gears, as close to the end of #46 (i.e., the gear box, or pinion housing, as you call it) as possible". "As close to the end (of the gear box) as possible". That's all they say. But, it is absolutely critical to align both racks, left and right, identically, so that the racks, the truss bridge and the A-frame are all square. Otheriwise, binding is inevitable.
Each rack must be installed so that the gears on each rack sit on the same tooth on the left rack and on the right rack. As you point out, once the two sides of each gear box (pinion housing) are glued together with three gears inside each gear box with the rack attached, it is too late to make adjustments because the gears and the rack are locked in place at that point.
I came across this thread where someone kitbashed the bascule bridge into a three track behemoth. It is the 11th post down on page 1 of the thread.
http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=54824&whichpage=1
I wonder if it actually operates because he, like me, reversed one of the walking beam supports which caused the bridge to jam halfway up.
No matter, that is an amazing piece of kitbashing.
Rich, my head just exploded.
There's an article in a previous issue MRR on how to expand your Bascule to a double track.
DigitalGriffin There's an article in a previous issue MRR on how to expand your Bascule to a double track.
Do you recall the month and year of that issue?
That article on converting the Walthers bascule bridge to double track was in Mainline Modeler Magazine. It ran in two parts in the November and December issues, 2002.
Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids.
Here are some preliminary photos of the bascule bridge installed on the layout. It sits atop a lift out section spanning an aisle to permit trains to crossover and reverse directions. The lift out is, in fact, a reversing section. You can see the auto-reverse unit on top of the surface. I need to hide or camaflouge the unit. I also need to determine a final position or placement for the bridge tender house which is visible on the left side of some of the photos.
Next step is the finish the track work and wiring. At the moment, the bridge is not operational until I work on the track and wiring on the lift section. Then, the landscaping, ballast and stone piers. Lastly, I will install some railroad bridge lighting. The first photo is the original lift out before re-engineering it for the bridge.
Next are some closeup photos of the bridge from different angles.
Lastly, these are the very first photos of the Santa Fe Super Chief navigating the bridge over the soon-to-be waterway.
I will be back with a video of the bridge in operation once I complete the track work, wiring, landscaping and lighting.
Nice,Nice, and Nice!! Your Service yard gave me some ideas!! Thanks - Looking forward to the video. Chris
Looking at it in its future location, I gotta ask: howcum ya didn't build it as a skewed bridge?
Seriously, though, Rich, it looks great, and so does your layout. The video of the bridge in operation was impressive, too.
Wayne
doctorwayne Looking at it in its future location, I gotta ask: howcum ya didn't build it as a skewed bridge? Seriously, though, Rich, it looks great, and so does your layout. The video of the bridge in operation was impressive, too. Wayne
Oh, Mama. Can you imagine trying to kitbash this guy into a skewed bascule bridge. I am going to leave that project to you, doctorwayne. Please send photos of your progress.
richhotrain Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids. Rich
It's articles like yours on here that encourage people to try to build thier own, after they see how nice it comes out. Not a bad profit for an $80 MSRP kit.
I wonder how much my assembled one would sell for with working marker lights? I'm still not sure if I have a place for it in my final layout.
Great job so far. You have been busy!! When I have time,I will post some pics I have of an actual
derailment on the 21st. canal st. lift bridge. UP power units 8 to be in fact run onto the bridge on their
own.Brake failure.Three of the units derailed on the bridge leaning on the girders. One of my son's
was an operations manager for the UP intermodal yard on canal,2009. Now he is at the Joliet yard.
Here are the pictures of the bridge at 21st and Canal St. Enjoy!
-Frank
Bridge1
Great photos, thanks for sharing. That PRR bridge at 21st Street is no place for a derailment. So much for bridge guard rails.
DigitalGriffin richhotrain: Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids. Rich It's articles like yours on here that encourage people to try to build thier own, after they see how nice it comes out. Not a bad profit for an $80 MSRP kit. I wonder how much my assembled one would sell for with working marker lights? I'm still not sure if I have a place for it in my final layout.
richhotrain: Someone just bought the bascule bridge new on eBay for $220.49 - - - 7 bidders, 11 bids. Rich
I think that the trick would be in packing it for shipping so that it wouldn't break. Might have to be for pick up only. My guess for a fully assembled, painted, operational bascule bridge with working marker lights - - - somewhere between $300 and $500 - - - based on the selling prices of NIB kits on eBay.
Yikes, I am nearly four weeks into this project, but I finally completed the bridge tender house today. The base, walls, windows and roof are no big deal. But, the platforms, staircases and handrails are consistent with the rest of the kit. They must be put on the building in the proper order, and the instructions do a good job warning you of that fact.
The inner handrails are attached to the inside of the staircases, but the staircases and platforms must be attached to the building first for proper alignment. In turn, this makes it difficult to put on the inner handrails. So, what I did was to use a 2-part epoxy (JB Kwik), applied with the point of a needle. That worked superbly, and it provided a much better and more secure fit. Ultimately, I secured all of the handrails, inner and outer, with epoxy which also eliminates any spaces between the parts of the handrails that are supposed to join together with glue.
Today, I ordered the stone cut walls and piers (Chooch Enterprises), the bridge track Walthers Shinohara), and a fire department tug boat (Model Tech Works) to put under the bridge in the river. Once I finish the ladscaping (ground cover, piers and abutments, river, and ballast), I will post final photos and a video of the bridge in operation on the lift out section of the layout.
I hope to have that ready by the end of next week. Golf is right around the corner in the Chicago area.
That looks great Rich. Looking forward to seeing the final pics when you get everything all tidied up. The tugboat sounds like a nice addition.
Golf in Chicago after all those snow storms, are you kidding me? LOL
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
I don't golf, but around here, those who do, do so all winter. I think that they use an orange ball when there's snow, although after a couple of days, the snow on the ground is dirty enough that they go back to using regular balls.
Looks Great! - Pic from layout of Jack Heier in Loveland, Colorado
scoutII Looks Great! - Pic from layout of Jack Heier in Loveland, Colorado
Wow, that is sweet. I love that scene, especially that tug beneath the bridge and its wake.
I plan to place a similar looking tug beneath my bridge, but being on a lift out section, I will have much less room and the length of the waterway will be shortened somewhat as a result.
I will be pressured to match the good look of this scene.
Thanks for posting that photo.
Guys, thanks for the excellent discussion. I am building the bridge with my son. We are having great fun but it is definitely pushing the limits of our modeling skill. I printed out Rich's helpful hints and it is serving as a bible for us.
Can anyone provide some more details on the switch replacement? Looking at the thing it is pretty clear that it is inadequate as everyone says. I would love a 'switch replacement for dummies' level of detail. I am a bit concerned about how the motor stops when the bridge is fully up or down. Are you all going with a fully manual approach or is there some auto ct off that can be rigged?
Thanks folks.
rjstruble Guys, thanks for the excellent discussion. I am building the bridge with my son. We are having great fun but it is definitely pushing the limits of our modeling skill. I printed out Rich's helpful hints and it is serving as a bible for us. Can anyone provide some more details on the switch replacement? Looking at the thing it is pretty clear that it is inadequate as everyone says. I would love a 'switch replacement for dummies' level of detail. I am a bit concerned about how the motor stops when the bridge is fully up or down. Are you all going with a fully manual approach or is there some auto ct off that can be rigged? Thanks folks.
rjstruble,
Welcome to the Forum and welcome to the club, of bascule bridge builders that is.
Digital Griffin, one of our fellow forum members provided me with a diagram of a setup for using micro switches in place of the reed switch. The diagram is shown earlier in this thread.
The micro switches are referred to as "leaf" switches, but I like to think of them as "pedal" switches. When the bridge strikes the leaf, it is like your foot hitting the brake pedal. The force of the bridge striking the leaf, or pedal, pushes it down, cutting power to the motor.
Digital Griffin's solution was to replace the reed switch with a pair of leaf micro switches, one to stop the bridge at the top of the lift and one to stop the bridge at the bottom of its descent.
The placement of the micro switches is the critical part. The one that stops the bridge's descent is fairly simple. Where the far end of the truss bridge meets solid ground upon completion of the descent, that is where the micro switch should be placed.
The one that stops the bridge's ascent is more challenging. My solution for the placement of that micro switch is at the bottom of the A-frame. As the bridge is raised, the counterweight moves down and inward inside the A-frame. At the top of the bridge's ascent, the counterweight is beginning to move inside the A-frame. That is the spot to place the other micro switch so that the counterweight strikes the leaf, or pedal, cutting power to the motor. A DPDT switch controls the motor and the micro switches.
A simple alternative is to operate the bridge "manually" without micro switches. That's how I started out just to keep it simple in the testing stages. A DPDT switch is wired directly to the motor. I used a Center Off DPDT switch. When the ascent or descent of the bridge was complete, I flipped the DPDT switch to Center Off. If you are afraid that you will forget to turn off the switch in the event of a distraction, then use a Momentary DPDT switch that you have to keep activated with your finger. If you let go, the motor will stop.
Hope that helps.
Thanks Rich, very helpful. Another stupid question which I may get answers to later in the construction: How does the motor 'switch direction' to either raise or lower the bridge, or is that done mechanically somehow?
rjstruble Thanks Rich, very helpful. Another stupid question which I may get answers to later in the construction: How does the motor 'switch direction' to either raise or lower the bridge, or is that done mechanically somehow?
It is done electronically by reversing polarity by means of the double pole double throw (DPDT) switch.
The DPDT switch has six contacts. Two of the outer contacts receive power from the power supply (transformer, wall wart, battery, whatever) through a pair of wires. The two center contacts feed power to the motor through another pair of wires. A third pair of wires cross from the outer contacts on one side of the DPDT switch to the outer contacts on the opposite side of the DPDT switch. In other words, that third set of wires forms an 'X' so to speak. When you flip the toggle on the DPDT switch you reverse the polarity and the motor spins in the opposite direction.
Thanks Rich, so I guess the included switch does all that and the new circuits proposed replicate that. I am an enginner, but it was chemical and a long tme ago, so my head is beginning to hurt.
On another one of your tips, you suggest gluing the gears in place to avoid slippage. Did you just use the standard modeling glue used for the plastic structures? You say put it on the sides, I was wondering if putting it on the rod and then sliding the gear over wouldn't be better. I agree overall that potential gear slippage could be an issue.
rjstruble Thanks Rich, so I guess the included switch does all that and the new circuits proposed replicate that. I am an enginner, but it was chemical and a long tme ago, so my head is beginning to hurt.
Actually, the included switch, the reed switch, is replaced by the micro switch which is more dependable. The reed switch is simply too flimsy and unreliable. Put simply, it doesn't work. After I wrote my checklist earlier in this thread, I was referred to the March 1999 issue of Model Railroader magazine in which a 2-page review of the Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge was published. It is an interesting article, and it addresses the reed switch. The author had fits getting it to work.
Having said that, the reed switch is nothing more than an on/off switch. However, you still need a DPDT switch to power the motor and to reverse polarity. Curiously, the instructions never mention the need for a DPDT switch.
rjstruble On another one of your tips, you suggest gluing the gears in place to avoid slippage. Did you just use the standard modeling glue used for the plastic structures? You say put it on the sides, I was wondering if putting it on the rod and then sliding the gear over wouldn't be better. I agree overall that potential gear slippage could be an issue.
It is not that the gear slippage "could" be an issue. It "will" be an issue. I mentioned the review of the bascule bridge in the March 1999 issue of Model Railroader magazine. In that artilce, the author prominently mentions the gear issue. He experienced many of the same problems that I did.
Here is the problem. The rod is a soft metal, it easily bends, so you have to be careful. The gears are made of Delrin plastic. The hole in the center of the gear is too small to mount on the shaft simply by trying to insert it with your fingers. The author of the magazine review article drilled a hole in a block of wood slightly larger than the rod. Then, he placed the gear over the drilled hole on the wood and hammered the rod onto the gear. I hadn't read the article until after I completed the assembly of the bridge, but that is essentially what I did as well. But, not before doing a couple of stupid things like (1) placing a drop of oil on the shaft to lubricate it to make insertion of the gear easier and (2) trying to ream the gear hole a little bigger. Those two things made the gear go on, but it also caused the gear to slip.
What you want to do is what the author did initially, and what I did eventually. Carefully hammer the gear onto the rod over a hole in a block of wood just large enough to permit the rod to pass through the gear without bending the rod.
Because I caused the gear slippage with my foolish actions, I tried to glue the gear onto the metal rod. But nothing would hold, not CA adhesive, not Ambroid Pro Weld, nothing. So, I finally resorted to JB Pro Weld 2-part epoxy which I applied on both sides of the gear around the hole in the center of the gear. That worked. You could do that as a precautionary measure even if the gear doesn't slip.
Incidentally, we are talking about the large gear that goes on the long metal rod that protrudes through the walls of the machine shed and connects to the gear boxes on both sides of the A-frame. The smaller gears that mount on the motor shaft and the small shaft between the motor shaft and the gear box shaft fit on without a problem. It is only the large gear that is an issue.
One last thing. You asked whether it would make more sense to put adhesive on the rod and slide the gear over it. I actually tried that but to no avail. One the gear is slipping on the rod, you are in trouble and it seemed that only the 2-part epoxy would "lock" the gear in place. If you follow the hammer suggestion, you should be OK.
So the reed switch is just off/on, no reverse in polarity? What a crap design. You're supposed to figure out the raise and lower part all by yourself. wow.
I used the hammer method so hopefully I am ok on te gears. I broke down and reassembled the gear house tonight, this time iwth proper clearances and amazingly enough it works. On to Step 3...
rjstruble So the reed switch is just off/on, no reverse in polarity? What a crap design. You're supposed to figure out the raise and lower part all by yourself. wow.
The problem with the reed switch that is included with the kit is that the reed is a flimsy piece of copper that does not perform reliably and consistently. The design is very poor.
Actually, the micro switches perform the same function as the reed switch, merely an On/Off function. It's just that the micro switch leaf design is more reliable than the reed design.
Either way, though, you need to wire up a DPDT switch to receive and tranfer power and to reverse the polarity. It is surprising though that the instructions don't comment on the need for a DPDT switch. I re-read the instructions before posting this reply, and there is no mention of how to power the motor or how to reverse polarity.
Got it. Pretty amazing actually. So you went with DigitalGriffin's circuit design? Any pictures or helpful hints? Thx.
rjstruble Got it. Pretty amazing actually. So you went with DigitalGriffin's circuit design? Any pictures or helpful hints? Thx.
Right now, I am in the process of landscaping (river, ground cover, ballast, bridge track, etc.) the lift out section that the bascule bridge will sit on. Then, I will post some photos of the final scene.
Once that is done, I have to complete the final, permanent wiring. I do intend to incorporate Digital Griffin's dual micro switch design. Then, I will post a video of the bridge in operation.
Great, thx, good luck, can't wait to see it.
I have finally completed the lift out section for the bascule bridge including the river bed, abutments, ballasting and landscaping, and the installation of bridge track. There are a few flaws yet to fix, but basically the project is done except for final wiring.
Here are some final photos of the bascule bridge on the lift out section.
Very nice Rich! I enjoyed your description of the construction and the attended problems and solutions. Looking forward to the video.
Rich, Great job!!!! Again you have been busy. Been away for awhile. I too look forward to the video.
Take care Frank.
Forgot to mention!!! I also like the tug boat... And I think you are correct on the size I have a ho scaletug and it looks too big.
Rich, simply fantastic. Love the paint scheme and the fit into the overall layout. Please keep me informed when you have switching/wiring complete. Detailed descriptions/how to's/photos on the electrical aspects would be great. I aim to shamelessly stand on your shoulders...
Bob
Very nicely done scene, Rich, and not merely the bridge itself. The approaches, abutments, the trackwork, the boat, and the water all turned out really well, too, and the whole scene fits perfectly with the rest of the layout which is visible in the background.
A really great job, Rich. That's a great way to scenik a lift-out! My hat is off to you! This has been a great thread to follow!
Real Nice!! Could I ask to see more pics of your layout? Thanks Chris
Nice job, Rich. It looks great! So, are you ready to tackle a double-track kit-bash one?
Thanks, everone, for your comments and compliments.
Obviously, I am pretty pleased with the results.
My biggest concern now is to permanently secure the bridge to the lift out in such a way that it will remain in place if the lift out is bumped or jarred. Of course, the other issue is the process of removing the lift out with the bridge in place. I have designed the lift out in such a way that I can remove and replace it without having to connect or disconnect any wires. Still, picking up the lift out and/or putting it back in place with the bascule bridge on it requires extreme care. I have already had two near death experiences with it. I have also treated the lift out as a duckunder from time to time but, as you can imagine, any false move or premature standing up could spell its doom. Don't ask me how I know.
Hey rich, which color paints did you use for what? I love the color scheme. We were not thinking we would paint ours, but your pics have caused me to reevaluate.
rjstruble Hey rich, which color paints did you use for what? I love the color scheme. We were not thinking we would paint ours, but your pics have caused me to reevaluate.
The bridge is painted with Polly Scale SP Lark Dark Gray.
The lift out section is painted with an Ace Hardware Royal Interior Flat Latex color called Green Forest.
I had looked at satellite photos of the Chicago River at 16th Street where the prototype of the Walthers Cornerstone Bascule Bridge is located and tried to match the color of the water as closely as possible. I was pretty pleased with the results.
Incidentally, the water is Woodland Scenics Realistic Water poured over the painted base of Woodland Scenics Plaster Cloth laid on top of the plywood surface.
The water is absolutely gorgeous. Did you paint all the structures as well?
I am 72 and have been a model builder and model railroader since the early 1950s. Over the years I have built many hundreds of plastic and high-end craftsman kits. I recently obtained a Cornerstone Bascule Bridge. It appears to be a revised version as it has the two micro switches. I must say that this is the most difficult and frustrating kit that I have ever attempted to build. The instructions are abysmal, and seriously in need of a thorough proof-reading and re-edit. The plastic used is supposed to be styrene but is very difficult to cement. I have used Plastruct, Testors, Ambroid, and GC Electronics cements for styrene as well as multi-medium (styrene, abs, butyrate, acrylic) cements all with poor results. Most create weak joints that separate easily or they vigorously attack the plastic causing distortion and "melting". The overall design results in an impressive looking bridge, but the tooling is sloppy. Parts do not always align correctly, locating pins often do not line up with respective holes, and flash and mold marks are everywhere. The motor/gear drive assembly is difficult to assemble due to almost no decent assembly instructions. Once completed, it actually works as it should, however! I have serious doubts about how many operations can be performed before gear failure.The two gear boxes and traveling arms are especially poorly designed and difficult to cement. I have serious doubts that they will hold up long. I will say that the problems with the soft metal rod have been corrected as the rod in this kit was substantial and not easily bent. I am approximately 2/3 finished with this project and should have a decent looking bridge when completed. The tremendous amount of work, aggravation, and frustration are beyond belief. Generally, Cornerstone kits are great and relatively easy to build. This kit definitely falls far short of the Cornerstone reputation. China appears to have been a poor choice for the manufacture of this kit. Quality control was obviously very poor.
Sorry to hear that you are having problems with the bridge. I should probably re-post some photos since my originals disappeared from this thread. After I started this thread back in 2011, I later added a second bascule bridge to replicate the B&OCT on the St. Charles Air Line in downtown Chicago.
I had no trouble building the bridges. My problem was getting the bridges to consistently operate. There are many problems in this regard, but the biggest problem is that the gear arm assembly is plastic. It should be metal. The failure rate proved to be nearly astronomical so I finally resorted to keeping the bridges in a fixed down position.
Great bridges to behold if you keep them in a fixed position. But the construction is not suited for operating the bridge over an extended period.
Thanks for the reply. I agree that the gear arm assemblies should have been metal construction, even though that may raise the cost of the kit considerably. I have already resigned myself to the fact that this may, indeed, have to remain a static bridge. I am curious as to why I have had so much trouble with cementing the black plastic parts. The cream colored parts did not present such issues.
I used Testors Model Master Liquid Cement For Plastics. This is the black plastic bottle with a needle nose applicator. I use that for all of my plastic structures. It is excellent.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-Plastics-1-oz/dp/B0006N6ODS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489263132&sr=8-1&keywords=testors+model+master+liquid+cement
Here is a photo of my double bascule bridge.
Yes, that Testors was among the many that I tried. {I have used Plastruct, Testors, Ambroid, and GC Electronics cements for styrene as well as multi-medium (styrene, abs, butyrate, acrylic) cements all with poor results.} I have never encountered a similar issue in the hundreds of kits that I have built since the early 1950s. I never saw a plastic quite like the black kind used in my version of this kit. Very "greasy" feeling (I even tried washing and rinsing all sprues!) and slippery. Some new Chinese invention??? The Ambroid multi-medium worked the best, but still not good. The photo of your double bridge is most impressive!
Thanks for your kind words, tomtanguay.
One thing that I did as i built the bridges was to use small clamps to hold the glued pieces until the glue dried.
TOMTANGUAY Yes, that Testors was among the many that I tried. {I have used Plastruct, Testors, Ambroid, and GC Electronics cements for styrene as well as multi-medium (styrene, abs, butyrate, acrylic) cements all with poor results.} I have never encountered a similar issue in the hundreds of kits that I have built since the early 1950s. I never saw a plastic quite like the black kind used in my version of this kit. Very "greasy" feeling (I even tried washing and rinsing all sprues!) and slippery. Some new Chinese invention??? The Ambroid multi-medium worked the best, but still not good. The photo of your double bridge is most impressive!
Sounds like you are trying to glue Delrin. You might want to try Loctite G02 or Loctite Epoxy.
Nice bridge!
SouthPenn Sounds like you are trying to glue Delrin.
Sounds like you are trying to glue Delrin.
I have been biting My tongue. As You know or maybe remember...I too built that bridge, back when they first came out and I must say, I did not have all the problem's that I am reading about. Just the one known fact that the electrical part of it was junk and I used a DPDT switch for that from the get-go. The adhesive I used at the time was Ambroid Pro-Weld, which is no longer made....the key to getting a strong bond in just about every styrene, ABS, type plastic is to lightly sand the area's that need to be bonded, with about a 300 grit sandpaper, is what I use, to roughen up the area where You want the bond, that way the adhesive does not have to meld/weld the slippery surface and almost dry before doing so, which will give a weak bond that will come apart. You can even tack two pieces together, by putting a dab on each piece, put together and then brush on a bead in the seam and capillary action does the rest and flow immediately to the sanded parts. As far as the lifts beams go..they are Not supposed to bear all the weight of the bridge...that is what the counter-weight does, helps to lift the bridge, that is one of the main reasons why it is even there. Sort of like a kids play ground teeter totter. That's why the instructions recommend using sand in the counter weight, to adjust amount. The axles I got with mine were hard metal rod.....I chamfered the end of the rod with a file before attempting to hit it in the gear holes...makes going in easier, instead of the rod dragging to the sides of the hole going in. Like putting drive gears on half axles, the half axles are chamfered where they go into the gear. My kit was made in Denmark, like most of the cornerstone structures were when they came out, states that right on the box. I have bought more than a couple of cornerstone kits over the yrs. and a lot of them being the same kit, but at different times/yrs. One in particular being the Transload structure, made in Denmark, Germany and Taiwan, in each case the kits were the same, but the plastic colors were a different shade of basically the same color. Different plastic pellets obviously.
Take Care!
Tomtanguay,
All I can say is.....I feel for You...they must have really changed a lot of things in that kit. Mine is most definitely dark grey styrene plastic. Copyrighted 1997 made in Denmark and it surely did not cost no $100.00 more like 79 and it's still works to this day. I also used Walthers code 83 bridge track on the deck, which didn't cost so much either back then. I even have the double track swing bridge which came out shortly after the Bascule...that one did come with micro switches and diodes for the circuit...You did have to buy the motor separately for it though. That also works to this day. Redoing that scene at the moment.
I am Your age bracket...will be 75 this yr.......started HO 1950 after being a American flyer guy for about 3 yrs. and still build wood ships.
Sorry to hear about Your experience though...sounds frustrating
I fully respect the point that you made with reference to sanding all potential joints. However, seriously on a kit this large with all the intricate parts??? You have far more patience than I could ever summon!!!
With regards to Danish, German, Italian, etc. kits, the ones that I have built all went together with minimal issues (other than many confusing instruction sheets!), especially the issues with joint bonding. The last bridge project was Faller's Biestchtal Bridge. Other than the immense size of this, and the naturally delicate nature of the handrails, I experienced few problems due to kit design or materials used. Most European kits are high quality. Several Japanese and Korean made kits haver been high quality as well. I recently obtained some WWII military kits that I envision kit bashing to 1940s era trucks, etc. These were made in Russia, Ukraine, and Romania. I have yet to build any of these, but I am curious as to materials used and how they will assemble. They remind me of some very early British "OO" scale kits that I acquired from my late brother. Rather crude by today's standards, but the plastic appears to be "normal" styrene.
Thanks for all the attention paid to my issues. I just had to vent some of my frustrations!!!
zstripe Rich, I have been biting My tongue.
I have been biting My tongue.
Regarding the operation of the bascule bridges, there are plenty of problems. When I built the first bascule bridge, I followed Digital Griffin's recommendations and used different switches than the one provided with the kit. At first, it worked fine, but it eventually developed problems, not with the switches and electronics, but with the mechanics.
The gear arms are plastic and they are warped so the gears bind. Initially, I even made a YouTube video to show off the operational bridge. And, the gear arms easily fall off the connecting pins. These are known problems.
Kudos to you if yours still works. It may be the luck of the draw or maybe your mechanical skills are better than mine. I am no expert, but I believe that I am reasonably competent. Pity the poor newcomer to the hobby who attempts to build and operate this bridge. It is a sight to behold if you leave it in the fixed down position.
TOMTANGUAYTOMTANGUAY wrote the following post 11 minutes ago: I fully respect the point that you made with reference to sanding all potential joints. However, seriously on a kit this large with all the intricate parts??? You have far more patience than I could ever summon!!!
LOL.....Yes I do....But it is not a gift.....It was earned...LOL
Did I hear Trucks??? My biggest other vice! Mostly Fallen flag Truck Lines that I have seen or even worked for over the yrs. Scratched/bashed, white metal castings/Pewter, Polyurethane resin and styrene all 1/87 scale. My collection is in the hundreds. I am a retired Teamster, owner operator, small business operator for over 45yrs in Transportation even a Vietnam disabled Vet, I'll throw that in for giggles...not laughing at the time though 67'.
Nice Photo!
Don't worry about the venting....been there.......there have been a lot of times in My life, that I had learned a new vocabulary, that I didn't know existed..
Take Care, My Friend...life is too short...one day at a time!
Life Member...ATHS (American Truck Historical Society)
PS. Couple of pic's from My collection:
TOMTANGUAY My instruction sheet, copyrighted 2016, seems to indicate that there have been several releases since first introduced. I have read, and re-read instructions carefully. Unless I managed to miss it somehow, there is NO mention of "styrene" or other materials used except "plastic" in these instructions, on the box label, or the Walthers website description {copied above}. This material is crazy as it does "act" like Delrin, but I can't believe that the entire production run of the gray plastic parts was done in this material. The sprue runs are huge, and there are a lot of them. If, by some weird circumstances, this kit WAS molded in Delrin, then this has to be one of the largest cases of total lack of employee oversight and quality control that I have run across in my 60+/- years of model building!! I even have kits inherited from my late brother that date back to the WWII war years. Not much plastic in them, but what there is assembled with ease, (except a few parts that appear to be "Bakelite").
Thanks for purchasing this Cornerstone® kit. Please read these instructions and study the drawings before starting construction. All parts are styrene, so use compatible glue and paint to finish your model. As part of the Cornerstone Engineered Bridge System, walthers.com/bridgesystem, your new model can easily be used with other Cornerstone bridges and accessories to create a custom structure for your railroad. PLEASE NOTE: your new bridge is designed as a working model. The gears in the drive mechanism are made of Delrin® plastic and should be lubricated with a light, plastic-compatible grease before operation.
Didn't mean to hijack Your thread buddy!
Frankie
zstripe Rich, Didn't mean to hijack Your thread buddy! Take Care! Frankie
And I agree!
Mike.
My You Tube
I owe you a huge apology!! I read & re-read my instruction sheet several times, again just now. I completely "glazed" over the first paragraph, however! It is certainly there as clear as can be. I can't blame anyone but myself for not seeing it. It does, indeed, say styrene. Just wonder how the Chinese interpreted that? Oh well, I will have it completed soon. I intend to paint the steelwork in a light industrial green which is common around here. (Also deep rusty red, but the Faller bridge is already that color and is close in proximity to this one.) Hopefully, the paint will help to disguise some of the construction damage. I always had the intention of a heavy weathering job on this bridge, however, and that should help as well.
Again, I still am a little in shock that I did miss that paragraph! Thanks for pointing it out to me.