Hey all,
I'm about to start laying a bunch of ME code 70 flex track. Just handling the track I've noted that it is not as flexible as the Atlas code 100 I'm used to. Can anybody share tricks or methods for making smooth curves with the ME track?
p32 of Realistic Relable Track describes using a stick to rub the ties to push them into radial alignment. I must be stunned because I cannot figure out what's being described here. Can someone enlighten me?
Thanks in advance for your help.Keep your stick on the ice.Dwayne A
Haven't laid much new track onl the layout in the past 15 years, but when I was building it starting in1983/84, I laid some ME code 100. I laid the roadbed first, using Homabed commercial roadbed, then I had a natural centerline on the roadbed with the long joint between the two pieces of homabed, and I simply curved the ME by hand using that center line. Worked fine, track is still in place in most cases. Never had to use a stick or rub ties. Perhaps the code 70 is a different animal, the code 70 on my railroad has been handlaid using wood ties and rail, so I can't compare.
Bob
I remember that we watched a Dream-Plan-Build video at a club meeting, and Tony Koester explained that technique (it was in Vol. 13, I think...) If anyone has that one, they will be able to come up with the answer for you.
I remember he showed what the "trick" was to it, but I can't remember the details. (I was having a SENIOR MOMENT, I guess.... )
Sorry I can't be of more help... Bob
desertdogI have used a lot of ME flex track. You have to bend it inch by inch, slowly and patiently. Otherwise, you get kinks or you can pull the rail out of the ties. John Timm
To add to what I said above, I also have used track radius gauges of various degrees to achieve the desired curvature. Insert the gauge between the rails and very slowly push it along to force the rails to conform to the gauge. It is tedious, but you will end up with a smooth curve.
John Timm
IronGoat I remember that we watched a Dream-Plan-Build video at a club meeting, and Tony Koester explained that technique (it was in Vol. 13, I think...) If anyone has that one, they will be able to come up with the answer for you. I remember he showed what the "trick" was to it, but I can't remember the details. (I was having a SENIOR MOMENT, I guess.... )
As I recall, he took a scrap piece of plywood about 3-4 long and attached a 1 X 2 backstop to it. Then I think he marked the radius of the circle one-half tie length away from the backstop. Then he took a piece of scrap wood, lattice would work, and began running this piece of wood over the ends of the ties beginning at each end and working toward the middle. The track gradually bent to the radius that was marked on the plywood - but it wasn't perfect and still needed some hand work to finish the bend.
I have used ME flex track before and bent it by hand - not a real fun job. I haven't tried his method but it seemed like he had good luck with it on the video.
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....
An easy way to get consistent curves is to use Sweep Sticks from Fast Tracks. These insert between the rails and give you a smooth bend.
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/Fast-Tracks-HO-Scale-Curved-SweepSticks-s/2212.htm
fredswain An easy way to get consistent curves is to use Sweep Sticks from Fast Tracks. These insert between the rails and give you a smooth bend. http://www.handlaidtrack.com/Fast-Tracks-HO-Scale-Curved-SweepSticks-s/2212.htm
Fredswain,
Agreed. That's basically the same thing I use. Mine come from Walthers and I have half a dozen different radii.
Whether you use the Fast Tracks product, which is fairly new, or the Ribbonrail product which has been available for years, I think the key is not to regard each 3' piece as a separate thing in itself to be curved, or you are likely to introduce, or tolerate, slightly straight portions at the ends of each section. I found I needed to regard an entire curve (2 or 3 pieces of flex track) as one curving project using those tools. Soldering the railjoiners in advance of laying the track is one way to do this.
Once curved, I found I then had to slightly "uncurve" at the far ends to match my subroadbed, which has the spiral easement curves built into it. That was a matter of matching the centerline penciled into the subroadbed.
Dave Nelson
I'm working in N-scale, but using the stiff M-E track, and I've been shaping it by starting in the middle, make a slight bend, then work that bend out to the ends like pushing a wave across a waterbed. In other words, propagate the bend out to the ends. Once propagated, you can bend a bit more in the center, propagate, repeat. Once the center gets to the shape it needs to be, you can work outward from that. If you start at one end rather than the center, you risk having ties get all out of whack on the other end, since the rail doesn't like to slide that much.
I use this method to get the track to the rough shape first, so that I can cut the rails flush. If doing a long curve with a joint in the middle of it, I agree with others that you should solder the rail joiners and then bend... but because of the M-E stiffness you can get the rails to be straight just for purposes of soldering then adjust later. I tend to leave a few inches straight at the end but then introduce a sharper-than-needed kink, so that the rail sticks out approximately as much as it will when curved into one smooth curve. That way, after the solder cools, you'll be able to reshape the curve without having to propagate another bend all the way through the piece.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm off.