Laying Micro Engineering Track

[WyeMe]

I have heard about the quality of Micro Engineering Turnouts, so I have always heard to try to keep everything the same. I bought the ME Flex track. I have used Atlas before and thought all Flex tracks were the same. Ok so I was wrong. I am calling out as to what kinds of techniques are used to lay this type of Flex Track. My original plan was to use the Construction adhesive method. I can really use some tips here.

[gandydancer19]

You can still use the caulking method to hold the track down, but you may have to weight it down until dry.

As you may have found out, the curve stays in when you curve it. If you are making a long curve, start in the middle and work out to both ends. You will always need to make slight adjustments when you get ready to put it in place on the roadbed.

If you have a curve that you need to make straight, straighten it as best you can by hand, then use a yard stick and pull the track into it to finish making it straight. Yard stick and track should be laid flat on a table top.

Someone makes a nice set of metal curved gauges that can help with specific radius' that may come in handy, although I didn't use them.  They would help keep the curve the same if you needed it.

[RioGrandeDan]

I use Micro-Engineering flex track and I make my own switches useing Micro-Engineering

rail and the "Fast Tracks" Hand-Laid track Fixturers  Fast Tracks Model Railroad Tools & Supplies

for years I have used the Micro engineering turnouts as well as Shinoharra turnouts and

 I found that you should never nail the ready made track and turnouts to your table 

because the plastic ties will bend downward causing the track to get out of alignment.

Micro-Engineering makes track alignment tools for both straight and curves and have 

been a great asset to my railroad. 

When useing the Contact cement adhesive pre-curve track to as close to the radis your

useing as possiable. Always spread the glue on the table and let it dry for 10 to 15

minuites before placing the track on it. NEVER put the glue on the turnouts themselves

and its a good Idea to NOT put glue on the track itself because when the surface of

the pre-glued table top will grab the pre-glued track and you won't be able to make

any adjustments after the two surfaces touch each other.

Goto your nearest deepsea fishing store and buy a dozen 4 to 5 inch long 1-2 pound

each sinker weights to lay on the track to hold it in place once your track is in position.

Allow these to stay on the track over night or for at least 2 hour. If you find any areas

that don't want to stick you can take a hand held Hair blow dryer and place the weights

on the area that isn't sticking and then quickley warm up the area to soften the glue.

Don't let it get to hot or you will cause the ties to warp. Test this methed on some scrap 

track to give you a good Idea as to how long and how hot you need to soften the glue.

I have found about 15 to 20 seconds will soften the glue without bothering the track.

when you Balist your tracks the thinned White clue you use to hold the Balist in place 

will add to the track adhesian.

I hope this helps you and check ot the "Fast Tracks" link above more tips on laying Tracks.

 

 

[dstarr]

   Depends upon your roadbed.  If it will take and hold track nails then I would use nails.  Wood roadbed, homosote, and cork on homasote hold nails.  Foam won't.  I never used cork over foam but it doesn't sound good for nails. 

   If track nails work on your roadbed I'd use them.  Kinks and other problems are easy to fix, the blackened track nails are invisible and easily driven with long nose pliers.  Don't drive them down too hard or then will bend the tie and throw the track out of gauge.  If the ties don't come with factory nail holes, you can drill them with a small twist drill and a pin vise.  Place the turnouts first and then lay the track between the turnouts.  Drill holes for Tortoise operating rods BEFORE placing the turnout.  

   If nails won't hold (foam) then stick the track in place with latex caulk.  It bonds well to the plastic tie strip.  Use the clear caulk, it dries invisible.  Weight the track down with anything heavy (books, bricks, cinder blocks, whatever) til the caulk dries, say overnight.  Be extra careful about kinks and too sharp curves 'cause they will be VERY hard to repair after the caulk dries.  

  Inspect all rail joiners to make sure the web of the rail slid INSIDE both rail joiners.  Place the fixed rail to the inside of curves.  Trim back the tie strip at the ends of each rail section to allow the rail joiners to slide up the rail.  Save the trimmed off bits to fill in the gaps in the tie strip later.  File each cut rail end smooth and remove any burrs from the cutting process.  

  Beware of kinks that lurk at joints on curves.  Use a giant compass or a trammel to mark the center line of the curves on the roadbed.  With flex track it is very easy to lay a too sharp curve, especially when the track has to dodge around water heaters, lally columns, joists and other immovable objects.  Use a straight edge to check the straightness of straight runs.  

[WyeMe]

That was a great tip about starting from the middle. I would have never thought of that one. Thanks. How would you go about cutting the curve in the middle? Do you like to stagger the cut? Or do you go straight across?  Thanks again for your input.

[gandydancer19]

Because the inside rail is alway longer when the track is curved, I usually cut it off to match up to the new piece that I am adding.  Rail joiners on curves are always soldered before the final bend is done.  If making a large curve that takes two or more pieces, I pre bend each section, then I try to even up the rails where they join.  This is because the ties remain as close to the joint to keep it in gauge.  Once the joiners are soldered, the curve bend is finalized.  Sometimes I have to remove a tie or two because the joiners want to slide pushing them together bunching them.