bogp40 wrote: WS and Scenic Xpress mix on the mains
WS and Scenic Xpress mix on the mains
Hey bob, is that your home layout or the club? Looks wonderful.
Wolfgang- is there anything special you need to keep in mind when building a curved turnout with the Proto87/CV kits?
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
The railbars came with the kit, from Proto:87 as well as CV. I've used both. They're from plastic and I glued them with plastic cement. (from Faller or similiar)
I've had no problems with curved turnouts. These are #6 and #8. And the radii are over 2m (6') .
I've airbrushed the wooden ties like the plastic ties. There's only one turnout with wooden ties and this derail. I've build the derail from left over parts of this Proto:87 turnout kit.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
This is the closest I've got to a 'close-up' of track and ballast, it's at Wagon Wheel Gap on my HO Yuba River Sub. The track is Sinohara code 100 and the, ballast is mixed from WS medium gray, light gray and cinder. I use a mixture of Floquil Boxcar Red, Roof Brown and Grimy Black to spray my rails before applying the ballast, then immeditely wipe the heads clean with a cloth soaked in alcohol. Any residue left on the railheads, I lightly rub with a Micro-Mark Track-Cleaner on a 'Stick', which I use to clean track in hard to reach areas (which seems to be most of my layout, LOL!).
Works for me.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
wedudler wrote: Yes, these are turnouts from Proto:87, code 70. Here you will find my experience:http://www.westportterminal.de/H0-USA/diamond_valley_e8.htmlWolfgang
Yes, these are turnouts from Proto:87, code 70. Here you will find my experience:
http://www.westportterminal.de/H0-USA/diamond_valley_e8.html
Oh word, I forgot that they made frogs like that for Code 70. Are those railbars the ones that come with the Central Valley turnout kits? I'm still confused as to whether the railbars are ones that Andy makes or the ones that just come with the regular CV kits.
How did you attach the railbars? Did you just glue them? Also, I was wondering if you had any problems with building the turnout as a curved one. I actually poured over your site last night when I saw the first picture you had posted.
With the Ultimate turnout of yours, what did you do to stain the wooden ties?
austfox So in your experience is it best to paint the rails before or after laying the ballast?
So in your experience is it best to paint the rails before or after laying the ballast?
Well, for me it was best to do it before ballasting, as I had several large bridges to install, which involved cutting the plywood sub-roadbed and some other constuction-type jobs. I found it to be a good task for those times when I didn't want to get too involved in a project - you can paint as much or as little as you like at one time. This also keeps the task from becoming tedious, although it does go surprisingly quickly. I was really amazed at what a difference it made in the appearance, even without ballast: it's great "bang for the buck", both dollar-wise and time-wise.
In the photo below, all of the track is laid directly on the plywood, with no roadbed. The two mainlines are part of a small interchange yard, and I wanted to keep "ground" in the area fairly level for the convenience and safety of the LPBs (little plastic brakemen). The cinder sub-ballast (hopefully) enhances the illusion that the track was properly graded for drainage, at least at one time.
Wayne
doctorwayne wrote:For painting rail, I find that a brush is faster than spraying, as there's less clean-up. Use at least a 1/2" brush, with fairly stiff bristles - it'll let you work the paint around the moulded-on
For painting rail, I find that a brush is faster than spraying, as there's less clean-up. Use at least a 1/2" brush, with fairly stiff bristles - it'll let you work the paint around the moulded-on
Hi!
Nothing wrong with copying well-done model track, but this may help, too:
For painting rail, I find that a brush is faster than spraying, as there's less clean-up. Use at least a 1/2" brush, with fairly stiff bristles - it'll let you work the paint around the moulded-on spike heads, and hold enough paint that you don't have to reload it so often. I use PollyScale paint (no odour) and do about 12' or 15' of track at a time, then wipe the rail tops with a dry rag stretched over my fingers. The paint will be dry to the touch, but not fully hardened, so it wipes off easily. I always wait at least 24 hours before running trains. Turnouts take a little longer to paint - centre the points until the paint is dry. If you spray the rails, anything near the tracks needs to be removed or covered, and if you have an around-the-room layout, it's awkward spraying the far side of the rails - it's easy for the "sprayer" to become the "sprayee". Another reason to prefer a brush over spraying is that any overspray becomes dust on your layout, which is not conducive to trouble-free operation.
wedudler wrote: Wolfgang
Wolfgang: please tell me thats a code 83 turnout from Andy's Proto87 store....... I've been jonesing so hard to see a picture of one of his turnouts "in action"
jfugate wrote: Here's my track:(Click image to enlarge) The very first issue of Realistic Layouts (May 2006) featured my Siskiyou Line on the cover, and the lead article was how I weather and ballast my track.You can also find more info in my Scenery Forum Clinic.
Here's my track:(Click image to enlarge)
The very first issue of Realistic Layouts (May 2006) featured my Siskiyou Line on the cover, and the lead article was how I weather and ballast my track.
You can also find more info in my Scenery Forum Clinic.
Joe,
You still have some of the best ballasted track I've seen. I have tried your Tempra coloring method. That's the trick. Way better than stains, dyes and diluted paints.
Thanks for the tip.
Atlas flex track Code 83 and Woodland Scenics Fine Gray Ballast
Ryan BoudreauxThe Piedmont Division Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger eraCajun Chef Ryan
Joe Fugate Modeling the 1980s SP Siskiyou Line in southern Oregon
fiatfan wrote: wedudler wrote: http://www.westportterminal.de/meetings/2008Ubach-Palenberg/08-03-29_IMG_3691_1200.jpghttp://www.westportterminal.de/H0-USA/Diamond_Valley/08-03-02_IMG_3354_1200.jpgWolfgang Absolutely stunning! Tom
wedudler wrote: http://www.westportterminal.de/meetings/2008Ubach-Palenberg/08-03-29_IMG_3691_1200.jpghttp://www.westportterminal.de/H0-USA/Diamond_Valley/08-03-02_IMG_3354_1200.jpgWolfgang
http://www.westportterminal.de/meetings/2008Ubach-Palenberg/08-03-29_IMG_3691_1200.jpg
http://www.westportterminal.de/H0-USA/Diamond_Valley/08-03-02_IMG_3354_1200.jpg
Absolutely stunning!
Gotta agree with you, Tom. There is some fine work in those pictures.
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
wedudler wrote:http://www.westportterminal.de/meetings/2008Ubach-Palenberg/08-03-29_IMG_3691_1200.jpghttp://www.westportterminal.de/H0-USA/Diamond_Valley/08-03-02_IMG_3354_1200.jpgWolfgang
Life is simple - eat, drink, play with trains!
Go Big Red!
PA&ERR "If you think you are doing something stupid, you're probably right!"
If the paint is fresh you can take cloth with solver.
I use for the dry paint a rubber.
Everybody is so generous with their time in posting their great pictures. Thanks from a newbie. I was wondering, for those that spray paint their tracks, how do you (or do you need to) clean off the tops for electrical contact?
Thanks
tomkat-13 wrote:
Nice work Tomkat. Are these guys hard at work or hardly working?
Excellent replica of a worksite.
DeadheadGreg wrote:hey bog, that first picture: ME flex mainline with handlaid yard tracks?
The 2 mainline tracks to the left are Walther's/ Shinihara code 83, and yes the yard is handlaid. The club members decided to use the Walther's over the ME.
My advice: go with code 83.
Photo has code 83 foreground, code 70 siding both ME flex.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Here's code 83, 70, and 55 ME track next to each other at Oakhill on my current Bear Creek and South Jackson. Ballast is Smith & Sons.
Here some code 70 ME (with code 55 spur) on my Redland diorama
Regards,
Charlie Comstock
Some on the club layout
Oh, wait a minute, that's the 1:1 version
This was meant to show the "scenic cover" between the two tracks, but the ballast is there as well.
This is HO Code 100 Atlas track (both flex and the turnout) over WS foam roadbed, with WS medium gray ballast.
There's an Atlas switch machine hiding under the mound of scenery in the center. I hate the look of those switch machines, so any time I can bury one it makes my layout look just that much better.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: Here's all I get on that link:Server Error in '/' Application. The resource cannot be found. Description: HTTP 404. The resource you are looking for (or one of its dependencies) could have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable. Please review the following URL and make sure that it is spelled correctly. Requested Url: /mrr.default.aspx
Here's all I get on that link:
Description: HTTP 404. The resource you are looking for (or one of its dependencies) could have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable. Please review the following URL and make sure that it is spelled correctly. Requested Url: /mrr.default.aspx
I've run into that a few times in the last couple days from the MR site.
Here's one with one of my home made ground throws. I use ME code 70 track and WS light gray fine ballast. I'm a Neanderthal who drives nails through the ties. I don't find it objectionable, and I like the way I can make small adjustments by pulling a few nails levering the track to a new position, even after I ballast.