benchwork

[train lover12]

the side with the switchback will be freestanding the other side i will make a pull out section of benchwork in the "end" of the dogbone

and i will follow ur advice

So the left side of the drawing as you posted it above will be freestanding?  Hmmm.  You're not planning to disconnect and reconnect track are you?  That's got trouble written all over it.  I think I said before -- I'm 6' tall, my layout is 4'8" wide, and I have trouble reaching the center.  However, it DOES sound like you've thought about how to deal with the problem, and that's a good thing.

Also, maybe someone will correct me, but I've always referred to the benchwork as the wooden frame that holds everything up (the legs and underneath supports and bracing), not the table surface on which the track rests.

BTW, on plywood thickness, I think you can get by with 1/2" so long as you don't run too far between braces, since the EZ Track has some structural integrity by itself.

oh when i mean benchwork i also mean the tabletop and by supports i mean the things kinda like studs in a wall but the wall is the tabletop the legs are the things that hold the table up

wat do you mean by disconnect and reconnect track? im just jutting a hole in the bewnchwork in the wide loop.

[MisterBeasley]

Have you talked with your grandfather about this?  It sounds like he knows what he's doing, and could give you excellent guidance.  If he's available, this would be a great project for the two of you to do together.

Your layout diagram is coming through fine, by the way.  I'm a bit concerned about how narrow your aisle is, though.

[train lover12]

Have you talked with your grandfather about this?  It sounds like he knows what he's doing, and could give you excellent guidance.  If he's available, this would be a great project for the two of you to do together.

Your layout diagram is coming through fine, by the way.  I'm a bit concerned about how narrow your aisle is, though.

how do i make the aisle bigger without making the plan bigger? 

[CTValleyRR]

Have you talked with your grandfather about this?  It sounds like he knows what he's doing, and could give you excellent guidance.  If he's available, this would be a great project for the two of you to do together.

Your layout diagram is coming through fine, by the way.  I'm a bit concerned about how narrow your aisle is, though.

The aisle should be about 20", which is the interior decorating standard for "minimum distance" for a passage.  Sure, if you're trying to get two people chasing trains with walkaround throttles, that's tight, but we're talking about a young man operating solo here.  He's limited to an 8x10 space, so you make some sacrifices.  Plus, I served on submarines.  You'd be amazed at how you can squeeze into tight spaces when you have to.

If you're going to put a liftout section of scenery in the middle of the loop, that will work, but use foam, not plywood for your base.  It'll be lighter for you to lift, and you won't have to worry so much if you accidentally whack something as you lift it out.

Now you start to see what we mean by, "just because you have a drawing doesn't mean you're ready to lay track".

 

[train lover12]

no kidding

actually im not going with that trackplan anymore it was too big on serious examination

well it could but the room is about 15x12' and its my bedroom so im going with an unfolded dogbone ill post the plan when it gets computerized i have it all finished on my floor and have already had one operating session

its about 4-5x10'

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

no kidding

actually im not going with that trackplan anymore it was too big on serious examination

well it could but the room is about 15x12' and its my bedroom so im going with an unfolded dogbone ill post the plan when it gets computerized i have it all finished on my floor and have already had one operating session

its about 4-5x10'

Train Lover-

You are learning a lot!  And that is what I think is the best part of this hobby!  The planning, thinking, designing, carpentry, electrical, and artistic skills are so wide and varied, and they will serve you a lifetime, at home, at school, and even (oh no!) at work!  Taking a litte time to learn now will make the whole project so much more satisfying in the end, too!

 

[bogp40]

Since you are scaling down the trackplan, give some thought to a shelf type switching layout including a yard, possibly engine facility. This could be built with the intention to incorporate into a larger layout when you decide to build one. Of course you still should have loops for some continuous running and fun just to watch the trains run.

[ChrisNH]

 

---

I second the Wescott book. I actually bought his first edition back  when I was 12-14 or so and found it a good read. He does a good job desribing the different kinds of benchwork you can use.

 

Some online articles

http://users.adelphia.net/~brmetcalf/rr/bench.htm

http://rail.felgall.com/lg.htm

You can google for lots more.

 

Chris 

[CTValleyRR]

no kidding

actually im not going with that trackplan anymore it was too big on serious examination

well it could but the room is about 15x12' and its my bedroom so im going with an unfolded dogbone ill post the plan when it gets computerized i have it all finished on my floor and have already had one operating session

its about 4-5x10'

Great!  I think that's a wise decision -- you really should start small until you're sure you're ready for a big one.    I hope it gave you some inspiration, though.  That was the purpose.  I think you'll find that, once you start models and scenery, that you will have more than enough to fill your free time.

[Lateral-G]

that is not wat i meant.  i know how to build it wat i mean is that

A)wat is the best way to make angled edges?

B)how far apart should the struts that the 1/4" tabletop rests on be?

C)wat are the best materials to use (opinions)?

D)wat is the best way to make legs? (ive seen at least 3 different ways)

 

The best thing to do is get one of the books mentioned on benchwork. A copy may even be available in your public library. I can't stress how critical this is.

You're going to need some basic carpentry skills. Familarity with jig saws, power drills, tape measures, etc. is very helpfull. 

The basic material will be standard pine lumber at your lumber yard or home improvement store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)

In a nut shell:

1x4's (these are parts of the L-girder)

1x2's (used for L-girder tops as well as cross bracing)

2x2's (used for legs)

These all come in 8 foot lengths. Hopefully you'll have a way to transport these from the store to your house. 

You'll need some plywood as well. 3/4" inch with one side faced is best. But beware a 4x8 sheet is very heavy. Some places will saw it for you to managable sizes (4x4, 2x8, 3x8, etc.) but you better know well in advance what sizes you want it ripped to.

You'll need some 1/4 ply to make gussets for the leg suports.  

Wood screws are going to be required. Usually  100 deg c'sink (countersink)ones are best. A c'sink drill is recommended for drilling the holes for these (various sizes are available for the screws you plan to use)

You may need carriage bolts, lag bolts, washers, wing nuts, etc. Once again review of the suggested reading material will help enormously. (I cannot over state this)

You'll need some saw horses to support your lumber as you cut it.

You'll need various clamps (spring, c-clamps, etc.) to hold things together while assembling.

I am sure there is more you'll need to know and tools you'll need that I can't come up with off the top of my head right now.

There are no "best ways" to make any of the things you asked about. Angles cuts can be made with sabre saws, jig saws, compound miter saws or table saws. Some are easier to do than others but each tool, when used properly will acheive the desired result. Just as there are various materials you can use. What works for me may not be what works for you. I gave you suggestions of tried and true materials proven over years and years of layout building by thousands of Model Railroaders. Same is true of the leg supports. Find a design you like and go with it. 

If you can, find a local club and see what they do for benchwork. But above all go out and find some books or DVD's on building model railroads. Many, many, many books have been written on "project" railroads that have sections on benchwork. There's an ecellent DVD by Green Frog Productions on building an HO railroad. I suggest getting that and watching it. (I think it's called The Apple Valley).

hth

-G- 

 

[dstarr]

that is not wat i meant.  i know how to build it wat i mean is that

A)wat is the best way to make angled edges?

B)how far apart should the struts that the 1/4" tabletop rests on be?

C)wat are the best materials to use (opinions)?

D)wat is the best way to make legs? (ive seen at least 3 different ways)

 

I'd use Linn Westcott's "L-girder" construction.  An L-girder is a piece of 1*4 wood and a piece of 1*2 wood fastened together to make an L shape.   Make four L girders, running lengthwise down the room, two of them running down the walls and the other two out at the aisle edge of  your table.  Cut legs from 2*8 to hold the L-girders up off the floor.   Space the legs out four foot or so.  Make diagonal braces for the legs to prevent an accidental shove or  kick knocking the leg out of place.  Fasten the legs to the L-girders with drywall screws.  If the floor is uneven (the usual case) put big screws into the floor end of the legs and use a wrench to level the table by turning the screw in or out. 

  With the L -girders up, lay joists (struts) of 1*4 on edge running from the aisle back to the wall every 2 feet.  Then lay your  1/4 inch plywood  on top of the joists.  Finish off the aisle edge of the table with 1*4 set vertically, nailed to the ends of the joists, and high enough to hide the edge of the plywood to improve the looks.  

 Cut the angled joints in the aisle edge of the table with a hand saw, or a power saw if you have access to one.  I would use plain 1*4 lumber for joists and table edge rather than plywood.  The lumber is about the same price as ply wood, and stronger down the length of it than plywood.  Ripping plywood into 4 inch strips is tedious with a hand saw.  Doing it with a skilsaw and a pair of saw horses it is hard to get a truly straight cut.  The 1*4 "dimensional lumber" comes ripped to width, all you have to do is cross cut it to length, an easier job.

Assume you are using flex track or snap track.  This has to be fastened down to something.  You can fasten your track right to the plywood with latex caulk, but I don't recommend that, it's noisy.  Ply wood doesn't take track nails, the glue layers are so hard the nails bend as you push them in.  I would lay either homosote ( a paper based sheet material, comes in 4*8 sheets, deadens sound and take tracknails well) or construction "blue" or "pink" foam on top of the plywood and lay your track on top of the foam.   Foam can be carved into scenery with nothing fancier than a kitchen steak knife.  Down side to foam, it doesn't take fasteners of any kind, you had to glue your track down to it.  

Good luck