davidmbedard wrote:you need some sort of frame work to support the foam. Without it, any bit of weight on the layout will snap it in 2.
you need some sort of frame work to support the foam. Without it, any bit of weight on the layout will snap it in 2.
I took david's initial response to mean any _human_ weight. Though this depends on the thickness of the foam. 2" stuff will be able to withstand a fair amount of force before it buckles, but 0.5" or 0.75" snaps much more readily...
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
davidmbedard wrote:...eering on the side of caution. All you need is a lightweight 1x4 or 1x2 bracing system to support the foam. David B
...eering on the side of caution. All you need is a lightweight 1x4 or 1x2 bracing system to support the foam.
David B
I have. My experience is that you need a wood frame around the perimeter of the foam to prevent damage from transporting the modules, especially damage along the edges that butt together. Also, even 2" thick foam, stored horizontally will develop a sag if left up supported over the entire 4' length. I have exhibited with modules built with an exposed foam top. The mating surfaces of the foam were easily damaged, often leading to problems when connectting modules and joining track between adjacent modules. While I t may be able to be done, I would not consider a best practice because of the possiblilty of damage to the foam ruining the module.
Without a wood frame and just a 2" piece of foam, how do you connect two modules together? Do you clamp them together? Where do place the clamp? What baout doamage to the foam from excessive clamp pressure?
It would be interesting to see the module that the original posting was asking for. THEN we could discuss the pros and cons. Clamping it with another module or attaching it in some other way?
I have built my layout with 5cm extruded foam reinforced with an extra 5cm thick and 10cm wide frame of foam under the layout. It is supported with seven 7cm wide boards and thats strong enough for my N-scale locomotives and cars. I have seen on this forum suggestions on how to strngthen the foam that makes me think that it must be for the 1:1 models to run on it. I agree that it is nessesary to protect some parts of the layout with a harder material.
There are some disadvantages with foam but I think we should continue that discussion in another thread. Lets wait and see if someone can answer the original question.
Is this the thread you are looking for;
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1191984/ShowPost.aspx
Regards,
Tony
jktrains wrote:I have. My experience is that you need a wood frame around the perimeter of the foam to prevent damage from transporting the modules, especially damage along the edges that butt together. Also, even 2" thick foam, stored horizontally will develop a sag if left up supported over the entire 4' length.
I have. My experience is that you need a wood frame around the perimeter of the foam to prevent damage from transporting the modules, especially damage along the edges that butt together. Also, even 2" thick foam, stored horizontally will develop a sag if left up supported over the entire 4' length.
jktrains wrote:Without a wood frame and just a 2" piece of foam, how do you connect two modules together? Do you clamp them together? Where do place the clamp? What about damage to the foam from excessive clamp pressure?
Without a wood frame and just a 2" piece of foam, how do you connect two modules together? Do you clamp them together? Where do place the clamp? What about damage to the foam from excessive clamp pressure?
1. Relax and open your mind to other people's ideas.
2. Foam by itself is not reliable enough for making a modual (been there...done that). It will sag or break, or chip.....
3. How do you attach the legs? Foam legs?
4. Foam + a bit of wood bracing is very strong and light weight
5. I am not from the USA; I am Canadian and I think I dont need to be 'informed' when it comes to foam insulation.
6. "The 2" foam we have doesn't sag, even when supported only at the ends of a 4x8 sheet." I dont think so Tim.
I have to call you out on this one. A 4x8 modual made of 2" foam WILL sag in the middle.
WOW...I'm glad I had a drink of Captain Morgan and Coke before I read THIS thread. Did all of you guys have a bad day?? LOL
I use foam for my base. I have used the pink foam and the blus foam. The only difference is the manufacturer, Dow Corning being one of the manufacturers. I don't know who makes the foam used in Australia, or even if it is different, so I will not make any comments about it's strength.
I have bought foam in 4' X 8' size 2" thick and 4" thick. The 2" thick, unsupported, will sag in the middle with weight applied. I have heard of people using 2" foam alone, no support, and PVC tubing used for legs at the four corners, however, they had a layout that was only 24" wide, not the full 48" wide. ( The PVC legs were inset into the foam after gluing an additional 2" thick piece of foam at edge corners making the edges 4" thick.)
4" thick foam is considerably stronger, and will not sag in the middle. Of course this also assumes that some 250 pound "moose" is not going to try to crawl up onto the 4x8 sheet to effect repairs in the middle of the layout either.
As for damage to the edges, the foam is surprisingly resilient, however, once again, carelessness will damage the edges and cause chip-outs, afterall, it "is" foam, and I can break off edge pieces with my fingernails.
For a lightweight, easy, and inexpensive way to build a layout, foam will work, as long as proper care in handling is observed.
"There are none so blind as those who will not see".
LOL at this entire thread, all the poor guy wants is a link.
Cheers
grayfox1119 wrote: WOW...I'm glad I had a drink of Captain Morgan and Coke before I read THIS thread. LOL
WOW...I'm glad I had a drink of Captain Morgan and Coke before I read THIS thread. LOL
I suppose you typed this standing with one hand on your hip and the opposite foot on a footstool.
(Check the pose, then the label on the CM bottle.)
I dont have hundreds of feet of timber and tonnes of plaster-of-Paris over bloody great swathes of chicken wire. In fact I use foam as a base with a light wood frame with 4 legs per 2x4 modual. Very light, and very strong. We tend not to use plaster-of-paris here in the modern world, but rather hydrocal.
I would love to see pics please.
Ah....the definition of a Modual here is something that stands on it's own and connects via clamps or other meothods to other moduals.
Ntrack and free-mo are 2 examples of "modualar standards" that we have adopted here in North America. Very exacting standards with years of experience behind them.
You clearly suggested that adding a framework is overkill.
I guess you dont recognize the Canadian Flag or my Location in my posts.
Calling me an American is akin to me calling you a New Zealander...
I dont know who would be more offended...the Australian or the New Zealander
Tis a reference that everyone else will get....except people from Australia. Sorry...'mate'.
But you did insinuate that a 4x8 sheet of 2" foam will NOT sag in the middle if supported by the ends...hence saying that a modual that size would be ok. You set up the inference...not me.
Tell ya what Mark. Enjoy your "modual" standards down in Australia.
Enjoy a shrimp on the barbee for me and a cold one on the hot days ahead. Ill be thinking about you when it is -40c in the months to come (in my foam-insulated home).
As for this issue, the bottom line is that a modual needs to be built for the long haul. This includes a design that is both rigid and light. This is achieved by what I have mentioned above...foam supported by light wood work.
In my opinion and from my experiences foam by it'self wont make the cut.< Reply
Nevin,
Here are 2 links that should get you to where you want to go.
1) <http://www.pbase.com/intermodal/isleta_module_set>
2) <http://www.pbase.com/intermodal/dalies_module_set>
I hope one of these is the site you're looking for!
Regards from Ohio!
Tim
Whew!
I'm glad THAT is settled, at least!
Lurking again in Ohio
just to make these clickable
http://www.pbase.com/intermodal/isleta_module_set
http://www.pbase.com/intermodal/dalies_module_set
It looks like in both cases, the foam in on top of plywood, in much the same manner that was suggested by other posters as opposed to being just foam with legs.
I don't want to spark another long argument, but... these look like everyday modules to me....
Dan,
Thank you for making the links clickable!
I respectfully disagree that these are not "everyday" modules.
Most modules maintain their rigidity based on the exterior cabinetry and cross supports. These modules use pads of plywood and spars for strength like in aircraft construction. The masonite sides add some longitudinal stability to the entire design. I like the concept; can't say that I could ever build one like it! Your mileage may vary......
Regards from Ohio,
David,
There are more rigid types of foam than the blue or pink stuff. I'm sure you've seen the typically green foam that is typically used by florists to arrange artificial flowers. That foam is darn rigid and wouldn't sag one bit in a 2 inch thick 4 x 8 foot sheet. I've held in my own hands samples of foam that is blue and somewhere in between the stuff you find at the big home improvement stores and the florist's foam. That might be the type of foam Mark has.
Eric
Tim,
After re-looking at the photos I think I see what you're getting at...
My experience with the foam construction methods is rather limited still (and inherent terminology contained therein). I've only recently getten back in the hobby (about 2 years now), and my last experience with building a layout was a LL trainset on a sheet of plywood with green paper when I was 5 (long story short - trainsets from 5 to about 14, school in the way, college allows SOME disposable income).
At the moment, I think my layout methodology would be akin to the layouts of old (spline/cookiecutter and plaster cloth)... but that's because thats what I remember reading about in MR all the time. Though since foam is cheap (and way easier to work with), I'm definitely going that route as soon as I can make space come out of nowhere in my dorm room, LOL!
NeO6874 wrote:I don't want to spark another long argument, but these look like everyday modules to me...
I don't want to spark another long argument, but these look like everyday modules to me...
ericboone wrote:David,There are more rigid types of foam than the blue or pink stuff. I'm sure you've seen the typically green foam that is typically used by florists to arrange artificial flowers. That foam is darn rigid and wouldn't sag one bit in a 2 inch thick 4 x 8 foot sheet. I've held in my own hands samples of foam that is blue and somewhere in between the stuff you find at the big home improvement stores and the florist's foam. That might be the type of foam Mark has. Eric
There are foam made for different purposes. I looked it up and there is a Swedish manufacturer that makes foam in six different strengths. All of them are pink and extruded. The strongest is 3.5 times stronger than the weakest one. I believe that even Dow that makes the blue kind I have used also make different qualities of foam.
When you use foam you must make the design with the foams strong and weak properties in mind.
Foams greatest advantage is it's low weight, a 5 cm (2") foam weights approximative the same as a 2.3 mm (less then 0.1") plywood.
Mark...where do you get your foam from?
Who is the manufacturer, and roughly what is the costing?
I'm down in the South East of S.A. and believe it or not, no hardware, builder or insulation outlet can tell me anything about the foam, never mind supply it or anything else.
Many cases down here still stuck with wire 'n plaster, or struggle with irregular shaped,sized, weighted polysteyrene packing material.