jawnt wrote: Jarrell, if you look around closely, you will notice that farmers normally place barb wire on the pasture side of the post ie: along a road the posts will be on the road side of the wire. Cows are notorious for sticking their heads thru the fence to get at the grass (grass is always greener on the other side of the fence). If the wire is on the road side of the post the cows pushing on the fence will push the staples out of the post and ultimately get out.Don't ASK! John T.
Jarrell, if you look around closely, you will notice that farmers normally place barb wire on the pasture side of the post ie: along a road the posts will be on the road side of the wire. Cows are notorious for sticking their heads thru the fence to get at the grass (grass is always greener on the other side of the fence). If the wire is on the road side of the post the cows pushing on the fence will push the staples out of the post and ultimately get out.
Don't ASK! John T.
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
larak wrote:How about something a bit different?
If you put a splash of paint on the backs of those "cows," you'd have a Irish sheep farm!
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
steemtrayn wrote:The last time I heards someone say "Get along, little doggy", I went out and purchased a dachshund... ba-dump...pssshh
ba-dump...pssshh
larak -
Your wife must be a Saint.
We had plenty of rocks in Connecticut also-I helped my father build walls around the front of our house when I was 12-went to college in upstate NY, BTW.
I'd like to have part of my layout depict Ireland-approx. 1895. LOTS of rocks in Ireland!!! Beautiful fieldstone walls separating properties, grazing pastures, etc. Also, castle ruins all over the country.
I made up a 24" long straight mold from wood corner molding for sides, screen material and newspaper underneath for drainage, lined sides w/waxed paper-rock salt for rock. Tried to bind w/ diluted white glue (not so great), then diluted hydrocal (looked good, have to hit the sides and top edges w/wet brush to wash away hydrocal on sides for detail); very brittle-ask me how I know.
I appreciate the referral to Rustic-Stone-Walls-thanks.
Nice job Machinist.
Don't let the cowboys see the ducks though. They disdain sheep and sheep have four legs.
and to the forum.
MRDUCKS
MRNOTDUCKS
OSAR
CMEDBDWINGS?
Hm ... it must be getting late ...
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
gaelicpropties wrote:larak -How did you make those rock walls?Thanks
How did you make those rock walls?
Thanks
Thanks for asking!
First I actually hand laid a wall with rock chips (chips that my wife sifted out of her rock bucket for me - she built a ten foot long rock escarpment stone by stone - I kid you not), tweezers, a magnifier and CA. Very time consuming - but that's OK.
A week later I found something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rustic-Stone-Walls-195-Scale-Ft-HO-Scale
on ebay. It was cheaper than my time. So now I had those four for patterns plus several of my own. I made a latex mold of 10 full walls and four corners and cast a bunch with envirotex and art plaster. Spray with grey primer, wash with india ink in alcohol, drybrush one or two colors.
The number of masters allows enough variation in the walls so that they look random. You don't want only one master.
The resin ones are very strong, the plaster ones somewhat fragile. I don't bother with short castings, the long ones are easy to break to size. Sand the ends and butt them together.
Touch up the paint after gluing them into place. I also use sections of broken down walls in my forests to represent the passage of time.
We have lots of stone walls/fences around here. So does the layout.
Here are some photos of the fence I built for my farm. I never found anything in the Walthers Wishbook, so I made my own.
How about something a bit different?
We didn't have much locust for posts and couldn't afford wire but we do have tons of spare rocks.
Yeah, I know, "them's funny lookin' cows".
When I was growing up dad hammered in old iron pipes for posts and tied the barbed wire to them. It worked very well except that the staples kept bending
reklein wrote: Jacon12 wrote,"why do they call em doggies anyway"The word Doggies, pronounced doh-gees, refers to orphaned calves and comes from the spanish word "dogal" which means tied off calf. From Wild and Wooly,an encyclopedia of the old west. Compiled by Denis McLoughlin.
Jacon12 wrote,"why do they call em doggies anyway"
The word Doggies, pronounced doh-gees, refers to orphaned calves and comes from the spanish word "dogal" which means tied off calf. From Wild and Wooly,an encyclopedia of the old west. Compiled by Denis McLoughlin.
The last time I heards someone say "Get along, little doggy", I went out and purchased a dachshund...
Dave
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
They are having a big car show near here this weekend, a great way to have all the older cars you want, all clean and bright. Some can be on the roads coming or going others in show formation or parade. With the trains I once thought of having a rr museum much like Steamtown, which used to be here in VT before it moved to PA. Older engines can live there and be on line when they are pulling excursion trains. Modern trains roll by on the main. I decided on mid-50's as the kids weren't too interested. Hoping maybe the next generation will be a little more interested when I finally get something for them to see. Just some thoughts.
Have fun,
I appreciate the information. Usually, around here that corner post is much bigger (think utility pole) if the farmer can get them, and it's braced on top of that. I haven't decided what type fence I'm going to build so all the tips and suggestions are handy.
Jarrell
yougottawanta wrote:Some tips on the fencing. Having grown up in Horse and Dairy country of Va there are some items you should consider when making your fence. The usual working farm (not the gentlemans farm used for a tax break) would usually use either a locust post or a cedar post , mostly cedar due to its great rot and bug tolarence. These would be cut from the cleared property for farming or from the woods. The Barb wire always goes on the side the cows are.If the farmer has enough money and decides to install Oak rough sawn planks they also are usually on the interior side with barb wire placed between the boards.The barb wire was usally in three to four strands sometimes five in a barb wire only fence. Board fences were usally "3 board" and in the old days painted white or creosote(sp?) which would be black. Now adays the fence is painted black or dark green the EPA out lawed creosote. At the corners there would be (on a barb wire fence) a "brace" installed which would usally be a cedar post that was attached to the top of the corner post and connected/notched to the bottom of the next post in line. This would be placed on either side of the corner. In some area's where the horse crowd lives there would be a jump in the fence line. Which was not much more than a wooden 'A" frame. At an entrance there would be one of several items-cattle gaurd made of concrete,a wooden gate or a barb wire gate which was not much more than two poles with barb wire attached and tied to the post at the end of the fence run. Usually this entrance would be offset or set in so that the farmer riding a tractor pulling say a hay wagon or honey wagon (dont ask) would be able to pull out of the path/road with out blocking any one and be able to safely open the gate.Hope this gives you some ideas
Mike, thanks for the information. I have to look back at the pictures and keep telling myself they're N scale, not HO. That's really some good work. I may try it when I get some wood and figure out how to cut tape into strips that thin...
mls1621 wrote: Jarrell,I put 1/16" wide vertical strips of double stick tape across a flat surface(the narrower the tape strips the better, when removing the finished fence, it can break if the tape strips are too wide and hold too firmly). I position a straight edge and apply the first rail. A sceond rail is placed against the first for spacing. Once a third rail is placed, the middle rail is removed. This process is repeated till the fence is the desired height.I used scale Bass wood, 2"X6"s for the rails and 6"X6"s for the posts. In the picture, the fence is 6 scale feet tall with 6" spacing between the rails. Once the rails are in place, I mark the positions of the posts with a pencil and remove the straight edge. The posts were glued with thick AC (Hots Stuff), I use a tooth pick or quilting pin to apply the glue to the posts. For the stock pens, I built them around a wood base, to maintain the symetry, but I've used the same method to build fences elsewhere on my layout that just mount into the ground. I used styrofoam insulation over my bench work and used a scribe to punch holes for the fence posts. The posts should be long enough to give good support for the structure. White glue works great to anchor the fence in the ground.I can't remember if I used rail brown or roof brown to paint the fence, but it was one of those two. I use Floquil spray. I find it's much easier to paint this kind of structure with a spray can, and there's no cleaning of the airbrush to deal with. I only use the airbrush when I have a lot of things to paint. A special note: When spraying it, I used double stick tape to hold it flat, the spray can will blow it away if you're not careful. Once the fence was in place, I weathered it with Pollyscale Dust, brushed on.
Jarrell,
I put 1/16" wide vertical strips of double stick tape across a flat surface(the narrower the tape strips the better, when removing the finished fence, it can break if the tape strips are too wide and hold too firmly).
I position a straight edge and apply the first rail. A sceond rail is placed against the first for spacing. Once a third rail is placed, the middle rail is removed. This process is repeated till the fence is the desired height.
I used scale Bass wood, 2"X6"s for the rails and 6"X6"s for the posts. In the picture, the fence is 6 scale feet tall with 6" spacing between the rails.
Once the rails are in place, I mark the positions of the posts with a pencil and remove the straight edge.
The posts were glued with thick AC (Hots Stuff), I use a tooth pick or quilting pin to apply the glue to the posts.
For the stock pens, I built them around a wood base, to maintain the symetry, but I've used the same method to build fences elsewhere on my layout that just mount into the ground. I used styrofoam insulation over my bench work and used a scribe to punch holes for the fence posts. The posts should be long enough to give good support for the structure. White glue works great to anchor the fence in the ground.
I can't remember if I used rail brown or roof brown to paint the fence, but it was one of those two. I use Floquil spray. I find it's much easier to paint this kind of structure with a spray can, and there's no cleaning of the airbrush to deal with. I only use the airbrush when I have a lot of things to paint. A special note: When spraying it, I used double stick tape to hold it flat, the spray can will blow it away if you're not careful. Once the fence was in place, I weathered it with Pollyscale Dust, brushed on.
Sorry, forgot to mention the cows, and they are cows, but it's harder to see the udders in N scale. I used Woodland Scenics cows.
I think Model Power has some Hereford steers in HO. We built a project layout last year with a slaughter house and used them in the pens there.
Wow Mike, that looks good! Could you elaborate on how you built this, using the double stick tape and all? If I went this route, in HO scale, I would only have to run two boards attached to the posts. Is this scale styrene lumber or wood? Did you paint it or stain it?
Where'd you get your cows? All I can find locally are dairy cows and I'm not in the dairy business..... yet.
Thanks,
mls1621 wrote: Jarrell,I used scale lumber to build the stock pens at the farmer's co op on my layout. I cut thin strips of double stick tape to hold the rails in place while attaching the posts.For barbed wire, you could use quilting thread, run between posts and make a gate using the same method I used.I like the rail and post fences, because it's easier to construct the sections, then glue the ends when you put the sections in the ground.With barbed wire, you need to put the posts in place, then string the wire between them. I can be done, but it might be more difficult to maintain even spacing between the strands of wire.
I used scale lumber to build the stock pens at the farmer's co op on my layout. I cut thin strips of double stick tape to hold the rails in place while attaching the posts.
For barbed wire, you could use quilting thread, run between posts and make a gate using the same method I used.
I like the rail and post fences, because it's easier to construct the sections, then glue the ends when you put the sections in the ground.
With barbed wire, you need to put the posts in place, then string the wire between them. I can be done, but it might be more difficult to maintain even spacing between the strands of wire.
Thanks for the link, Jim. Guess I'll mosey on over and read up on it and build something before the little doggies get out.
Who started calling cattle doggies, anyway?
UP2CSX wrote: Yep, you need barbed wire to keep those critters in...or so my uncle tells me, who actually has cattle. If you havent seen it before, here's a pretty good thread on barbed wire:http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/586177/ShowPost.aspx
Yep, you need barbed wire to keep those critters in...or so my uncle tells me, who actually has cattle. If you havent seen it before, here's a pretty good thread on barbed wire:
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/586177/ShowPost.aspx
Tom, I'm having a devil of a time deciding what era to model. My problem is I like it all. My engine roster runs from a little Spectrum 4-4-0 to an Atlas Dash 8, circa 1990's. I love steam but I like the later diesels too. And it gets compounded when I come across little beauties like Athearn's old cars. Can't pass'em up! Soooo.... I've just about decided to settle for the mid 1950's... early diesels like the GP7's and 9's. So what do I do with my later diesels, all of which are nice models, dcc and sound. I think I'd have to shelf about 4 of them if I got real strict. 'Course, I could change out era's every now and then, pull the steam and put out the later diesels. OR... just model 1955, give or take 40 years...
Heck, I don't know. Could put the model T's in a car show, or parked in somebody's drive way as a refurbished vehicle. Hmmmmmm.....
tstage wrote: Jarrell, I see you bought one of the new Athearn Model-Ts. I just picked up two today at the LHS: The sedan (w/o the spare wheel) and the short-bed truck. (Same as pictured in your post, except it's a very light yellow.)I may have to either dull coat them or soot them a bit to tame down the shine slightly. All-in-all, nice models. Tom
I see you bought one of the new Athearn Model-Ts. I just picked up two today at the LHS: The sedan (w/o the spare wheel) and the short-bed truck. (Same as pictured in your post, except it's a very light yellow.)
I may have to either dull coat them or soot them a bit to tame down the shine slightly. All-in-all, nice models.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I know what you mean. When my 10 yr. old gdaughter comes down and we run trains, I let'er put together whatever type train she wants. Long as she's happy, I'm happy too~
That little building is a Bar Mills out of their 3 shack pak. A friend put it together for me, no way my unsteady hands could've done it.
ARTHILL wrote:I agree. My Gdaughter is 8 and I let her decide what she wants and I think she will go for a weathered color the next time as well. By the way, that is a really nice building you have there.
This month's MR had an article that addressed different fencing. I think it was in the middle somewhere.