I have a little interchange yard with ME code 70 flextrack running through it atop cork roadbed, which is glued to a 1/4" plywood base. Last week I (finally) filled in the yard with Arizona Rock & Mineral's steam-era Yard Mix, covering the track and extending at tie level about four inches to either side. Because the cinders were pretty deep, I really saturated them with mostly alcohol and diluted white glue. Next day the bulk of it was hard and stable, but apparently I over-saturated, causing the plywood to sag a bit, and a foot or so of the track (rewetted in the process, of course) bowed up, ties and all.
I've since poured in more ballast, snugged the track down, and held it in place with a few temporary screws (the heads pulling down on the rail much as a track spike--which I don't have--would). Then I carefully rewetted the area and reglued it. And it worked; the track feels tightly in place even after removing the screws. But I'm wondering if there isn't a lot of stress in that area, with the track still trying to bow upward and the ballast mixture holding it downward.
I'm considering two additional steps. One would be to make a cut through the track somewhere near the center of the problem section. The other would be to get a few track spikes and have them pulling downward. What would you suggest? I'm obviously hoping to avoid cutting out the whole section, scraping away all that hardened ballast, putting in a new track section 1/32" shorter, reballasting and painting the rails and ties and so on. But I'm open to your ideas and wisdom.
The combination of 1/4" plywood and water/glue mix is what did you in. Unfortunately, most 1/4" plywood is strictly indoor rated. Don't get it wet or bad things will happen...
So here we are. Sounds like the track is a bit wonky, but how do trains get over it? If they do, then it's mainly a cosmetic issue. If they don't, then your best bet is to take it up, get a good base underneath, and re-do.
That assuming it's fully dry. It may not be, so it's worth seeing if a few more days of drying helps if you're not certain it's dry. Sometimes, things will shrink back in place. With 1/4" ply, it may have delaminated, in which case replacement is probably your best bet. I recommend a minimum of 1/2" ply. I use 3/4" myself, but I like things to stay in place once they're set and to deal with any possible layout-top excursions.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Whether or not a few spikes will do any good, they certainly won't hurt. Otherwise I would follow the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule. It it pops up again, then more aggressive action may be warranted.
As already mentioned, that 1/4" ply is too thin especially to soak. Hopefully the plywood hasn't delaminated and as you repaired/ reballasted haven't got crud, ballast under the ties. If you continue to have trouble and feel it is mainly due to the bowed ply, place/ scab a section of pine directly under the trouble spot. This will allow you to place screws on either side of the track to help flaten and try to secure the ply to it's original level. If the track still wants to lift, cutting gaps and spiking the rails down will keep from any future movement.
As a precaution, seal any other areas of that 1/4" ply before track laying or ballasting. Use more alcohol to wet instead of "wet water", I would also dilute the glue w/ the alcohol also.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
The frugal side of me says to wait and see what happens and maybe the worst is over. The "best practices" side of me says you have been given a warning and the situation may yet be festering and maybe this is a good time to rip out the offending area and consider it a lesson learned.
True, it may not be too late to screw as much of that 1/4" plywood into whatever supporting joists or beams or whatever as is possible and more or less bull the plywood into submission. I will say that I am often surprised at just how long moisture lasts in a dry basement such as when sculpt a mold has been been applied, so it may be that some moisture is still in there, waiting, waiting .....
Dave Nelson
Probably would not have been a bad idea, to put a primer coat of paint, on the plywood,before you laid,the cork, after all,the cork is porous and the grain on the ply is also, at least,around,the area,where the road bed,was going to be.
Cheers,
Frank
I agree with Roger about leaving it alone at this point. As he said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
In my own situation, I have not had that experience, but I use 1/2" plywood and I paint the plywood first, so that coat of paint tends to provide a sealing effect. I should also mention that I use a finished surface plywood, so it is less porous.
I suppose that it is possible that the thinness of the 1/4' plywood could have led to the problem. But, almost certainly, oversaturation with alcohol and then the water/glue mix caused the swelling. Better to err on the side of caution by adding too little rather than too much. You can always add more later.
Rich
Alton Junction
LION did not use any plywood. LION did not use any cork.
LION used Celotex sheets, like homasote but lighter, easier to cut, and somewhat more dimensionally stable, but unlike homasote, it is no longer available since the invention of fire codes. LION had 10 sheets of the stuff removed from a building that we tore down.
Anyway, LION lays tracks directly on the Celotex (or Homasote) with no paint or roadbed. Ballast, where required is held in place by gravity: since there is no road bed it will not roll off. Some of it has been painted, with latex paint, and it remainded dimensionally stable.
Ach... but LIONS are cheap and build with what can be found in the barn, or stacked up in the gymnasium. You do have a gymnasium on your property, don't you?
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
BroadwayLion Ach... but LIONS are cheap and build with what can be found in the barn, or stacked up in the gymnasium. You do have a gymnasium on your property, don't you? ROAR
Tell you what, LION.
If I had a gymnasium on my property, I would build my Dream Layout x 10.
Gymnasium is not heated anymore. Is also filled with junk Is also too far away. Nah, LION did not even consider building a railroad there. But there are about 50 sheets of 1.5" white roofing foam out there, for which the LION has some plans. These are not level, but would make a nice base for New York City streets. Nice and light. Can build a city scape on top of the seheet, and then lift it into place above the layout.