Curmudgeon wrote:It's a real shame that you believe.Really.Especially since you haven't a clue as to what you are talking about. FAR less derailments on 250 AND 215 than on ANY LGB 332 switches, I can guarantee you that.
It's a real shame that you believe.
Really.
Especially since you haven't a clue as to what you are talking about.
FAR less derailments on 250 AND 215 than on ANY LGB 332 switches, I can guarantee you that.
Dear Dave,
The 332 vs 250/215 discussion is quite similar to the Code100 vs 70/83 discussions of many years ago.
There will always be people who believe that huge wheel flanges and gigantic rail sizes are insurance against derailments.
In our business we usually ask: "how do you think the prototype manages to run?"
Best regards
ER
I have personally never considerd using 250 myself and i have only ever seen one railway with 250 and i can tell you i was very impressed with how realistic it looks. In fact it made a terrific difference.
However i believe you get more derailments on 250 and it is more expensive and harder to get, you cannot get the accessories that you have with 332,.
So if you really need realism and you are prepared to go the tough metres then why not.
Rgds iIan
The non-existant 1400' of CCRy is all 250 and 215 aluminum outdoors.
I started with ME, will never make that mistake again. Not enough UV protection in the ties. They "sparkle" in the sunlight and are the color of a 20-year-old Hershey bar.
All but two horrible hand-built turnouts outdoors are Llagas.
I have an "in" with Llagas......
Had I known about Llagas and 215 when I started it would ALL be Llagas.
The trouble with putting different sized rail like in tunnels is you have to adapt both sides. And, the tie height......by the time you add in the thicker 332 ties and the higher rail, you have to shim....
There are a number of good reasons to use your 332 rails, such as in a tunnel where it won't be seen or something similar. Llagas creek, http://www.llagastrack.com/index.html , is the place to go for what you are talking about.
I also agree that the smaller rail looks better. This is true in any model scale, it just "looks right". I use 332 for the simple fact of budget as well as I don't really care a great deal about having my track look prototypical. I did do a great deal of research on the Llagas track, and from what I determined is that it's the best way to go if you want to handlay or use the flex. Price wise it was not much cheaper than the Aristo-Craft and in the end I decided that the work involved in using handlay from Llagas was not the best for me. Later on when I do another rebuild (in 4 or 5 years) I will certainly use the Llagas track. In the mean time I've been sneaking in some orders for rail and ties (shhhh, don't tell the wife!)
Best of luck Bman!
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
Hey guys,
Once again...thanks for all the input. TOC....glad to see your sense of humour is alive and well! I have not actually seen 250 rail hence the questions. We are planning a trip to the west coast come springtime. A dealer there sells AMS by the box. My indoor line is all narrow gauge. The turnouts will need to be tight since the largest space from the wall is only 24". I may even handlay with the LLGAS turnouts. We'll talk later about a new trackplan! Later eh...Brian.
Shims may not be the best way to do it.
I've seen that suggested before, even the styrene. Can't solder plastic. Beating the joiner into place is.....well...futile. The top of the base hits the joiners in the same place. Don't try to re-invent the wheel when there are products out there designed to do the job.
There are 332-250 rail clamps (I have a set here), plus at least Llagas makes cast "blenders", about 1.5" long cast rail pieces.
You look at photos in the mag of folks who have scratchbuilt or super-detailed or whatever, and it's on 332, I just turn the page.
Why bother to do all that upgrade and run it on 9-inch rails?
Outdoors, mainline is 250 and branches are 215 on the CCRy. I used all my old brass 332 in the shed.
It makes a world of difference in the appearance of the railroad, and in photographs.
Of course, since some think I don't even have a railroad and have only been at this for two months, you can take that advice as you see fit.
TOC
Hi everyone,
Having used up most of my track from my indoor line, outdoors, I plan to buy more track next spring. Up until now all I have used is LGB sectional track. How much is the physical height difference between Code 250 and 332? I do know it is 82 thousands of an inch...what does it look like side by side? If I used AMS code 250 rail and combined it with LGB turnouts, am I asking for trouble? Would I have to grind each joint where the 250 and 332 meet? I know you can get code 250 turnouts, is this the way to go? Thanks for your input! Later eh...Brian.
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