New starting layout in the backyard...

[Anonymous]

I'll take the bridge and trestle question first.
I use Redwood because it has a natural resistance to rot. If you own a table saw try ripping your own "timbers", if not, I believe 1/2 or 3/4 inch sq. Redwood stakes are available at garden supply stores (if any are open this time of year).

Now for the rocks.....unless you enjoy REAL BACK BREAKING WORK find another way to level your track as it runs over the rocks. Maybe miniature stone retaining walls to even out the tops of the large rocks. Or try to find a route that avoids any problem rocks.

I hope this helps......OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

I'll take the bridge and trestle question first.
I use Redwood because it has a natural resistance to rot. If you own a table saw try ripping your own "timbers", if not, I believe 1/2 or 3/4 inch sq. Redwood stakes are available at garden supply stores (if any are open this time of year).

Now for the rocks.....unless you enjoy REAL BACK BREAKING WORK find another way to level your track as it runs over the rocks. Maybe miniature stone retaining walls to even out the tops of the large rocks. Or try to find a route that avoids any problem rocks.

I hope this helps......OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Hi new Garden Rail Fan,

I am also new to GR, 6 mos into it. Suggestion start with one or two test circles
which will be incorporated into the final design. This will give you an opportunity
to get the 'bugs" out and where I am we have them. Refine your trackwork, electrics,
grading skills. Choose track which needs little maintenance, this is a major
problem in GR. I choose SS, waited for some pieces, but very happy with the
choice. Bolt together EVERY section, run leads EVERY 15 to 20' with #12 wire.
and you will have flauless operation. If possible raise your layout from 1 to 2'
this helps with drainage and provides a better view. If I remember VT soil is
tuff to dig in, its easier to go up with a few yards of 'bank run soil'. Good Luck!!

[Anonymous]

Hi new Garden Rail Fan,

I am also new to GR, 6 mos into it. Suggestion start with one or two test circles
which will be incorporated into the final design. This will give you an opportunity
to get the 'bugs" out and where I am we have them. Refine your trackwork, electrics,
grading skills. Choose track which needs little maintenance, this is a major
problem in GR. I choose SS, waited for some pieces, but very happy with the
choice. Bolt together EVERY section, run leads EVERY 15 to 20' with #12 wire.
and you will have flauless operation. If possible raise your layout from 1 to 2'
this helps with drainage and provides a better view. If I remember VT soil is
tuff to dig in, its easier to go up with a few yards of 'bank run soil'. Good Luck!!

[mikef7408]

Hello all,I too am still in the planning stages of my railroad. I had a rather large HO road in the basement but had moved into a house without the basement that we had before so it was one of those more room out than in that got me in this. I was very interested in the replys that everybody wrote and hope to get something started this spring.

[mikef7408]

Hello all,I too am still in the planning stages of my railroad. I had a rather large HO road in the basement but had moved into a house without the basement that we had before so it was one of those more room out than in that got me in this. I was very interested in the replys that everybody wrote and hope to get something started this spring.

[Anonymous]

I to am in Queensland and I to use crusher fines i pay about $6.00 for 100 litres. it is great stuff and I dont care if it is damp or dry it is easy to put down and does in fact set like concrete but it isn't like concrete as it will wash away I mis raw cement with it and it atys put. If you cannot buy it retail try a local quarry it is an unwanted by product and they may pay you to take it away.


Regards



Ian

[Anonymous]

I to am in Queensland and I to use crusher fines i pay about $6.00 for 100 litres. it is great stuff and I dont care if it is damp or dry it is easy to put down and does in fact set like concrete but it isn't like concrete as it will wash away I mis raw cement with it and it atys put. If you cannot buy it retail try a local quarry it is an unwanted by product and they may pay you to take it away.


Regards



Ian

[Anonymous]

I'm planning a layout at ground level. But what provision should I make for draining water? If I dig a trench won't it fill with water?
I am thinking that I should raise the level to about six inches above the ground level and provide 2 inches pipe holes through it every 20 feet. Does anyone have any experience of doing this?

[Anonymous]

I'm planning a layout at ground level. But what provision should I make for draining water? If I dig a trench won't it fill with water?
I am thinking that I should raise the level to about six inches above the ground level and provide 2 inches pipe holes through it every 20 feet. Does anyone have any experience of doing this?

[Anonymous]

Hey! Topbarhive,
Welcome to GRRing. It's been a year since you posted your question so I hope you are well on your way with your RR. From your response you seem to be close enough to Burl., I suggest you attend the Vt. flower show the last week of this mo. (FEB). Look up any one of the VT. Garden RRers that will have an operating layout on display. They will be glad to sign you up as a member but also can suply you with any info you need.
Good Luck
Maybe I'll see you there!!!

[Anonymous]

Hey! Topbarhive,
Welcome to GRRing. It's been a year since you posted your question so I hope you are well on your way with your RR. From your response you seem to be close enough to Burl., I suggest you attend the Vt. flower show the last week of this mo. (FEB). Look up any one of the VT. Garden RRers that will have an operating layout on display. They will be glad to sign you up as a member but also can suply you with any info you need.
Good Luck
Maybe I'll see you there!!!

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by michaelbeere

I'm planning a layout at ground level. But what provision should I make for draining water? If I dig a trench won't it fill with water?
I am thinking that I should raise the level to about six inches above the ground level and provide 2 inches pipe holes through it every 20 feet. Does anyone have any experience of doing this?

There are a few easy things you can do. one is to raise the ballast roadbed like you said but using a trench gives the water a place to go. without a trench you risk your ballast getting washed away or sinking fast into the soil.

if your talking about a solid raised roadbed like concrete or wood then you will need to provide for drainage holes at the appropriate low spots or bridges to allow water under.

it really depends on the slope and terrain, if its hilly then washout is a problem, flat then pooling becomes an issue.

the best solution seams to be using a trench under the ballast where a perferated drain pipe is installed. the water is captured by the drain . the biggest hastle with this system is you almost need to be a grading engineer to get the slopes in the pipe correct and there has to be somewhere for the water to drain to. not easy on a flat suburban lot.

My idea was to build my layout in a raised planter above the grass about 12" so the trench ballast and rails were always "above" any point where pooling could occur.

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by michaelbeere

I'm planning a layout at ground level. But what provision should I make for draining water? If I dig a trench won't it fill with water?
I am thinking that I should raise the level to about six inches above the ground level and provide 2 inches pipe holes through it every 20 feet. Does anyone have any experience of doing this?

There are a few easy things you can do. one is to raise the ballast roadbed like you said but using a trench gives the water a place to go. without a trench you risk your ballast getting washed away or sinking fast into the soil.

if your talking about a solid raised roadbed like concrete or wood then you will need to provide for drainage holes at the appropriate low spots or bridges to allow water under.

it really depends on the slope and terrain, if its hilly then washout is a problem, flat then pooling becomes an issue.

the best solution seams to be using a trench under the ballast where a perferated drain pipe is installed. the water is captured by the drain . the biggest hastle with this system is you almost need to be a grading engineer to get the slopes in the pipe correct and there has to be somewhere for the water to drain to. not easy on a flat suburban lot.

My idea was to build my layout in a raised planter above the grass about 12" so the trench ballast and rails were always "above" any point where pooling could occur.

[smcgill]

Hellow topbarhive ! If you are going anywere near the Burlington Mall , why don't you go to Charles Ro in malden? Just go to there web site! They are located off of Rt 60 in Malden ! If you do go talk to Sue! They do have a couple of books and GGGGGGGG trains all over the place! They even have an operating lay out up stares, that runs on friday and saturday!

[smcgill]

Hellow topbarhive ! If you are going anywere near the Burlington Mall , why don't you go to Charles Ro in malden? Just go to there web site! They are located off of Rt 60 in Malden ! If you do go talk to Sue! They do have a couple of books and GGGGGGGG trains all over the place! They even have an operating lay out up stares, that runs on friday and saturday!

[Anonymous]

A year into my little garden layout and I find one thing I would definately change..... raise the track up from ground level. As VSmith had suggested, a "planter type " foundation bringing the track to 6-8 inches above ground level (the whole layout area) boardered by landscape ties, natural rock or whatnot and then filled with soil would have been ideal. OLD DADs method of a completely raised track has it's merits also, looks like Horses for Courses. I have been able to run all winter here in "Jersey, broomed off the snow, put on an extra vest and steamed away. I used a trench filled with crushed shale, drainage was no problem, no frost heave, track expansion-contraction has been noticeable but minimal. ( allow your track to float, also, some space between sections, dimes width, seems to work for me) Continuing "Manifest Destiny", expansion plans for track will continue to use trench and fill without plastic edging, but with a wider right-of-way. Good luck to you all this spring, have fun and start reasonable, your milage may vary.......

[Anonymous]

A year into my little garden layout and I find one thing I would definately change..... raise the track up from ground level. As VSmith had suggested, a "planter type " foundation bringing the track to 6-8 inches above ground level (the whole layout area) boardered by landscape ties, natural rock or whatnot and then filled with soil would have been ideal. OLD DADs method of a completely raised track has it's merits also, looks like Horses for Courses. I have been able to run all winter here in "Jersey, broomed off the snow, put on an extra vest and steamed away. I used a trench filled with crushed shale, drainage was no problem, no frost heave, track expansion-contraction has been noticeable but minimal. ( allow your track to float, also, some space between sections, dimes width, seems to work for me) Continuing "Manifest Destiny", expansion plans for track will continue to use trench and fill without plastic edging, but with a wider right-of-way. Good luck to you all this spring, have fun and start reasonable, your milage may vary.......

[Anonymous]

Hey Danny;

Where abouts in Queensland are you its a mighty big place, I am on Kawana island on the Sunshine Coast. [e-mail]

Regds Ian; Kawana island tropical railway

[Anonymous]

Hey Danny;

Where abouts in Queensland are you its a mighty big place, I am on Kawana island on the Sunshine Coast. [e-mail]

Regds Ian; Kawana island tropical railway

[d4fal]

Six inches should be considered your minimum level that your track is elevated, if for nothing other than for drainage. The base that you don't see should also be six inches in the ground as well. Some suggest a landscape fabric to line your trench, but this may be too fussy. Depending upon how you use your railroad, depends upon how high above the surrounding terrain you need to be. For a G-scale layout or larger, higher is better.

If your garden get water logged, best that your track be higher still. In that case, drainage is the key issue.

[d4fal]

Six inches should be considered your minimum level that your track is elevated, if for nothing other than for drainage. The base that you don't see should also be six inches in the ground as well. Some suggest a landscape fabric to line your trench, but this may be too fussy. Depending upon how you use your railroad, depends upon how high above the surrounding terrain you need to be. For a G-scale layout or larger, higher is better.

If your garden get water logged, best that your track be higher still. In that case, drainage is the key issue.

[Michael Smith]

Just starting here also in Fort Lauderdale area. I have all Aristo Stainless Steel track. Pool is finished, Garden paver wall is finished (1350 paver stones), dirt was moved into place by the pool builder, and another 40 cubic yards of top soil and sand was moved by hand into place. Some landscape is in and also started to lay some of the PT wood sleepers for track. About 1/2 of it is leveled. Now if I could only keep my 5 yr old daugher from playing train and walking around the track. Cant work on it today as I have to lay wood floor at my parents condo and then goto a huge party tonight for my daughters school. Sunday I will take her to ride the trains at Tradewinds Park in Coconut Creek on the 7-3/4" scale trains.

[Michael Smith]

Just starting here also in Fort Lauderdale area. I have all Aristo Stainless Steel track. Pool is finished, Garden paver wall is finished (1350 paver stones), dirt was moved into place by the pool builder, and another 40 cubic yards of top soil and sand was moved by hand into place. Some landscape is in and also started to lay some of the PT wood sleepers for track. About 1/2 of it is leveled. Now if I could only keep my 5 yr old daugher from playing train and walking around the track. Cant work on it today as I have to lay wood floor at my parents condo and then goto a huge party tonight for my daughters school. Sunday I will take her to ride the trains at Tradewinds Park in Coconut Creek on the 7-3/4" scale trains.

[HEdward]

Finding ballast seems to be a local problem for some. The local Home Depot people like me and have been helpful in the past. There is a concrete fabricator and several sand and gravel companies in the area. I'm sure that something will be found for my NFG&G. Never having built or worked on rails outdoors and being a rather brown thumbed gardeners, I am hoping to recruit some in person help. I'm planning on taking tons of photos and keeping careful notes just in case it turns out well and the nice folks at Kalmbach publish an article. Enough about me, how do we get the snow and ice off our rails to run winter trains??

[HEdward]

Finding ballast seems to be a local problem for some. The local Home Depot people like me and have been helpful in the past. There is a concrete fabricator and several sand and gravel companies in the area. I'm sure that something will be found for my NFG&G. Never having built or worked on rails outdoors and being a rather brown thumbed gardeners, I am hoping to recruit some in person help. I'm planning on taking tons of photos and keeping careful notes just in case it turns out well and the nice folks at Kalmbach publish an article. Enough about me, how do we get the snow and ice off our rails to run winter trains??

[Anonymous]

I am also new to Garden Railroading. I just attended a great show and sale in Madison, WI. I noticed in one of your posts that there are no hobby/train shops where you live. At the show I browsed through an extensive setup from St. Aubin Station ( http://www.lgbpola.com/default.htm ) in Illinois and Nevada. They had a ton of stuff on display. They carry just about all manufacturers. Check them out. It's worth the look.

[Anonymous]

I am also new to Garden Railroading. I just attended a great show and sale in Madison, WI. I noticed in one of your posts that there are no hobby/train shops where you live. At the show I browsed through an extensive setup from St. Aubin Station ( http://www.lgbpola.com/default.htm ) in Illinois and Nevada. They had a ton of stuff on display. They carry just about all manufacturers. Check them out. It's worth the look.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by topbarhive

[black][/black
Hello all,

I'm just getting started in Garden Railway. I want to see what I'll have to do to get a railway going in my backyard, not much open space

Topbarhive ...
The Vermont Garden Railway Society has about 3 doz. active amateurs who can give you lots of help getting started and improving your layout. Most of us have run into supply issues and the like and can shorten your learning curve to get you highballing early on.
Conductor for the VGRS can be emailed at [e-mail]. Glad to have you aboard.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by topbarhive

[black][/black
Hello all,

I'm just getting started in Garden Railway. I want to see what I'll have to do to get a railway going in my backyard, not much open space

Topbarhive ...
The Vermont Garden Railway Society has about 3 doz. active amateurs who can give you lots of help getting started and improving your layout. Most of us have run into supply issues and the like and can shorten your learning curve to get you highballing early on.
Conductor for the VGRS can be emailed at [e-mail]. Glad to have you aboard.