New starting layout in the backyard...

[Anonymous]

RailfanLady

Good advice on the Kalmbach book! I have it & it will be my bible for my pike.

I'm glad to find another woman model railroader, although we are not a scarce as women in other scales. I'm into HOn3 as well as garden RR. A woman in narrow gauge is somewhat rare but I have met some guys with standard gauge layouts and their wives, or significant whatevers, maintain the narrow gauge portion. My garden RR is just in the planning stages right now but I have 5.2 acres and a ton of engines & rolling stock. I'm focusing on getting my new log retirement home finished enough that I can feel OK about playing out in the yard.

If you add an email address to your profile I'd correspond with you.

[Anonymous]

RailfanLady

Good advice on the Kalmbach book! I have it & it will be my bible for my pike.

I'm glad to find another woman model railroader, although we are not a scarce as women in other scales. I'm into HOn3 as well as garden RR. A woman in narrow gauge is somewhat rare but I have met some guys with standard gauge layouts and their wives, or significant whatevers, maintain the narrow gauge portion. My garden RR is just in the planning stages right now but I have 5.2 acres and a ton of engines & rolling stock. I'm focusing on getting my new log retirement home finished enough that I can feel OK about playing out in the yard.

If you add an email address to your profile I'd correspond with you.

[Anonymous]

took a good background picture 4 my pc off the lionel site .
but where b a screensaver 2 match.
any suggestions? all help concidered with much gratitude.
active motion savers r best .pictures i can get anywhere..gracius--morse power and [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

took a good background picture 4 my pc off the lionel site .
but where b a screensaver 2 match.
any suggestions? all help concidered with much gratitude.
active motion savers r best .pictures i can get anywhere..gracius--morse power and [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

I'm at the wiring stage of my GRR. I'd like help/hints at the best way to wire track and/or
accesories.
Here in Oregon "Bark Dust" dealers have a product they call "Turkey Grit" or
"1/4 Crushed" I've used a lot for my RR and only paid $2.00 for a 5 gallon bucket.

[Anonymous]

I'm at the wiring stage of my GRR. I'd like help/hints at the best way to wire track and/or
accesories.
Here in Oregon "Bark Dust" dealers have a product they call "Turkey Grit" or
"1/4 Crushed" I've used a lot for my RR and only paid $2.00 for a 5 gallon bucket.

[DannyS]

Here in Queensland, Australia, I am using what we call Crusher Dust, from Gardening Supply Companys, it is a sharp stone, ideal for ballasting track, with watering in sets not unlike concrete. I dig a trench about 3 or 4 inches deep and about six inches wide, fill with Crusher dust to ground level, lay track (Aristocraft Brass)then cover with more Crusher Dust, sweep off and water in. And also to Slick1, why no turnouts, without them it will be a boring layout! I have used about 14 so far!

[DannyS]

Here in Queensland, Australia, I am using what we call Crusher Dust, from Gardening Supply Companys, it is a sharp stone, ideal for ballasting track, with watering in sets not unlike concrete. I dig a trench about 3 or 4 inches deep and about six inches wide, fill with Crusher dust to ground level, lay track (Aristocraft Brass)then cover with more Crusher Dust, sweep off and water in. And also to Slick1, why no turnouts, without them it will be a boring layout! I have used about 14 so far!

[Anonymous]

Another great book is "Getting Started in Garden Railroading" by Alan Miller, available on the big books stores and Amazon.com.

Del Tapparo
D&L Garden Railroad

[Anonymous]

Another great book is "Getting Started in Garden Railroading" by Alan Miller, available on the big books stores and Amazon.com.

Del Tapparo
D&L Garden Railroad

[Anonymous]

KEEP IT SIMPLE is good advise but have a larger concept in mind and plan your layout in such a way that additions can be made without a lot of rebuilding. We ran a simple figure eight for the first six years then expanded our line into the remaining space. You say that you have limited space, don't let that stop you from planning your utimate empire. We run four car trains up 5% grades using a Bachmann Big Hauler on the head end with no trouble unless the rails are wet then the drivers tend to slip. So a few grades in your track plan needn't be avoided unless you run live steam then a level track works best.
Good luck with your planning topbarhive.

May all your weeds be wild flowers...OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

KEEP IT SIMPLE is good advise but have a larger concept in mind and plan your layout in such a way that additions can be made without a lot of rebuilding. We ran a simple figure eight for the first six years then expanded our line into the remaining space. You say that you have limited space, don't let that stop you from planning your utimate empire. We run four car trains up 5% grades using a Bachmann Big Hauler on the head end with no trouble unless the rails are wet then the drivers tend to slip. So a few grades in your track plan needn't be avoided unless you run live steam then a level track works best.
Good luck with your planning topbarhive.

May all your weeds be wild flowers...OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

I would appreciate an elaboration on why you think Live Steam is fussier about level track.

My experience is quite the opposite.

My Aster C&S will pull a 5 car consist up a 7% grade with NO problem. The sheer power of steam and the weight of the loco not only gives strong pulling power, but the traction capability to handle the pull. I have no doubt it will pull up to a dozen cars before showing signs of breathing hard.

The real nemesis in Live Steam traction is OIL on the track, not the grade or even small amounts of water. Steam oil simply boils off thru the exhaust and machine oil can drip from the valve gears. Both CAN contaminate the rails. Generally tho,...

...and no offense to the sparkers, but I've yet to see any sparkie that can outpull a steamer of equal size. Even match it.

If your steamer is pulling THAT poorly, you need to go back and re-examine your assembly of the steam chest. Particularly the admission valve area and/or the integrity of the needle steam valve itself where it seats. Ensuring good free motion in the valve gear assembly are also a good checkpoints since this is where the very timing itself is regulated and can result in poor power if not timed properly with regard to TDC (Top Dead Center). True Walchaerts or Stephenson combination levers are usually eliminated in "G" scale locos due to size, so the timing at the eccentric becomes more critical.

I wrote a very in-depth article on this almost 4 years ago and published it to the web. If you would like a copy, let me know and I'll email it to you.

vsmith has a copy.

But I'd still like to hear your experirnces.

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

I would appreciate an elaboration on why you think Live Steam is fussier about level track.

My experience is quite the opposite.

My Aster C&S will pull a 5 car consist up a 7% grade with NO problem. The sheer power of steam and the weight of the loco not only gives strong pulling power, but the traction capability to handle the pull. I have no doubt it will pull up to a dozen cars before showing signs of breathing hard.

The real nemesis in Live Steam traction is OIL on the track, not the grade or even small amounts of water. Steam oil simply boils off thru the exhaust and machine oil can drip from the valve gears. Both CAN contaminate the rails. Generally tho,...

...and no offense to the sparkers, but I've yet to see any sparkie that can outpull a steamer of equal size. Even match it.

If your steamer is pulling THAT poorly, you need to go back and re-examine your assembly of the steam chest. Particularly the admission valve area and/or the integrity of the needle steam valve itself where it seats. Ensuring good free motion in the valve gear assembly are also a good checkpoints since this is where the very timing itself is regulated and can result in poor power if not timed properly with regard to TDC (Top Dead Center). True Walchaerts or Stephenson combination levers are usually eliminated in "G" scale locos due to size, so the timing at the eccentric becomes more critical.

I wrote a very in-depth article on this almost 4 years ago and published it to the web. If you would like a copy, let me know and I'll email it to you.

vsmith has a copy.

But I'd still like to hear your experirnces.

[Anonymous]

P.S.

I've also found that running the steamer out in the rain actually IMPROVES the size of the plume. Wow.

[Anonymous]

P.S.

I've also found that running the steamer out in the rain actually IMPROVES the size of the plume. Wow.

[Anonymous]

I have not started with my layout yet as I am still in the process of purchasing enough track to start. I have planned an elevated 40 x 25 foot garden for my railroad because the back is not so good anymore. I have seen crusher dust here in New Zealand and stuff that is called Pavelock which I am also going to experiment with, I believe is has a tiny bit of cement in it, which I think would be great for holding the track firmly in place. You guys in the States have it lucky with the free "Beginning Garden Railroading" book available.

Regards, Rob

[Anonymous]

I have not started with my layout yet as I am still in the process of purchasing enough track to start. I have planned an elevated 40 x 25 foot garden for my railroad because the back is not so good anymore. I have seen crusher dust here in New Zealand and stuff that is called Pavelock which I am also going to experiment with, I believe is has a tiny bit of cement in it, which I think would be great for holding the track firmly in place. You guys in the States have it lucky with the free "Beginning Garden Railroading" book available.

Regards, Rob

[d4fal]

Odd. I've found that the larger the scale, both the easier it is to maintain track level and the less it is fussier with uneven trackwork, which does make for an interesting ride, provided that it is not too uneven. But then, I only have my test track constructed so far.

I have an advantage of having an old quarry on my site with a good selection of grades in gravel that I could use, and using a screen to select the fines and course grades usually does me well. Has anyone worked with any additives that can be added to provide a stronger base? Not exactly cement, as this is too permanent in nature. Calcium Cloride or something like it. I had not bothered to get it yet, as my line is hardly to that stage.

I'm still having fun with the bobcat.

[d4fal]

Odd. I've found that the larger the scale, both the easier it is to maintain track level and the less it is fussier with uneven trackwork, which does make for an interesting ride, provided that it is not too uneven. But then, I only have my test track constructed so far.

I have an advantage of having an old quarry on my site with a good selection of grades in gravel that I could use, and using a screen to select the fines and course grades usually does me well. Has anyone worked with any additives that can be added to provide a stronger base? Not exactly cement, as this is too permanent in nature. Calcium Cloride or something like it. I had not bothered to get it yet, as my line is hardly to that stage.

I'm still having fun with the bobcat.

[Anonymous]

I confess to not being a chemist , but isn't Calcium Chloride a Salt? If so, would it not cause lots of corrosion ...... I'm finding that a 4inch trench (deep) filled with small stone works well. I'm using crushed shale. Crusher fines carry alot of fine material that sets up like cement but can be broken apart easily if need be. It seems that any small stone with "tooth" works well, by "tooth" I mean that the stone is not round, which would be displaced easily. Still having fun with the Bobcat? Geez, I've only got squirrels...... O.K. I know , small front end loader. Yepper, no home should be without one, 'specially with kids ![:D]

[Anonymous]

I confess to not being a chemist , but isn't Calcium Chloride a Salt? If so, would it not cause lots of corrosion ...... I'm finding that a 4inch trench (deep) filled with small stone works well. I'm using crushed shale. Crusher fines carry alot of fine material that sets up like cement but can be broken apart easily if need be. It seems that any small stone with "tooth" works well, by "tooth" I mean that the stone is not round, which would be displaced easily. Still having fun with the Bobcat? Geez, I've only got squirrels...... O.K. I know , small front end loader. Yepper, no home should be without one, 'specially with kids ![:D]

[Anonymous]

An interesting discussion.

I know from prior readings and discussion with OLD DAD he does things I would not have thought possible. But it is obvious that his methods regarding elevated track go against what I had been taught earlier, but seem to work superbly for him. For me, I'm going to consider him the prime authority on the subject since he also lives in a colder clime than I do.

My method has always been pretty much the same as is done in the "real" full sized world. I TOTALLY endorse the crusher fines method, and even most specificly, Lava Crusher fines. It's not cheap, but when I'm done I walk on my track heel to toe and it stays firmly in place. I trench a little deeper than described above, and may cut back to 6 or 8 inches on my next lay just to see.

I had a far larger drainage problem in Hawaii than I now have in NM, and may not need as deep a trench to deal with it.

[Anonymous]

An interesting discussion.

I know from prior readings and discussion with OLD DAD he does things I would not have thought possible. But it is obvious that his methods regarding elevated track go against what I had been taught earlier, but seem to work superbly for him. For me, I'm going to consider him the prime authority on the subject since he also lives in a colder clime than I do.

My method has always been pretty much the same as is done in the "real" full sized world. I TOTALLY endorse the crusher fines method, and even most specificly, Lava Crusher fines. It's not cheap, but when I'm done I walk on my track heel to toe and it stays firmly in place. I trench a little deeper than described above, and may cut back to 6 or 8 inches on my next lay just to see.

I had a far larger drainage problem in Hawaii than I now have in NM, and may not need as deep a trench to deal with it.

[Anonymous]

We meet again Mr. Vettbass,

I'm not sure if I want to be the "prime authority" on elevated track....if I make a mistake everyone will pick on me....then I'll feel bad....do you want that on your conscience.
But thank you for your vote of confidence anyway.

Now, about level track for the oil dumpers (steamers ) My reference to level track working best for live steam had nothing to do with pulling power I was thinking of the run-away problem steamers have had on my many grades. Didn't mean to slight the "puffers".

All this steam talk reminds me of an incident that happened about six or seven years ago.
One of our members was about to run his steamer so I ran my sparker on to a side track and zeroed-out the Aristo-craft R/C hand held throttle. After the steamer had finished running I tried to bring my sparker back onto the main line.....NOTHING!!!!
My transmitter was fried.
Apparently the Aristo-Craft throttle doesn't zero-out completely and the steamer didn't have insulated wheels.....you guessed it, SHORT CIRCUIT.

I sent my unit to Arist-Craft explaining what happend and they sent back a brand new unit with no questions and no charge.

Now I unplug my power pack whenever a steamer runs just to be safe.

Don't burn your fingers......OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

We meet again Mr. Vettbass,

I'm not sure if I want to be the "prime authority" on elevated track....if I make a mistake everyone will pick on me....then I'll feel bad....do you want that on your conscience.
But thank you for your vote of confidence anyway.

Now, about level track for the oil dumpers (steamers ) My reference to level track working best for live steam had nothing to do with pulling power I was thinking of the run-away problem steamers have had on my many grades. Didn't mean to slight the "puffers".

All this steam talk reminds me of an incident that happened about six or seven years ago.
One of our members was about to run his steamer so I ran my sparker on to a side track and zeroed-out the Aristo-craft R/C hand held throttle. After the steamer had finished running I tried to bring my sparker back onto the main line.....NOTHING!!!!
My transmitter was fried.
Apparently the Aristo-Craft throttle doesn't zero-out completely and the steamer didn't have insulated wheels.....you guessed it, SHORT CIRCUIT.

I sent my unit to Arist-Craft explaining what happend and they sent back a brand new unit with no questions and no charge.

Now I unplug my power pack whenever a steamer runs just to be safe.

Don't burn your fingers......OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

Yeah, I've brought up the insulated wheel issue before on other threads here.

Most steamers these days are insulated at the "tire" level. A contact ring of metal to the rail, insulated and then slipped over the wheel hub. This mostly for the Drivers. For the trucks, often the wheel is insulated where the hub joins the axle.

Either way, and both are used depending on model quality, it prevents a wheel/axle assembly from ever completing an electrical circuit thereby shorting out the track itself.

Most concientious makers these days KNOW that a steamer MAY want to have powered track for other reasons like accessories, OR be able to run on a sparker's layout.

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

Yeah, I've brought up the insulated wheel issue before on other threads here.

Most steamers these days are insulated at the "tire" level. A contact ring of metal to the rail, insulated and then slipped over the wheel hub. This mostly for the Drivers. For the trucks, often the wheel is insulated where the hub joins the axle.

Either way, and both are used depending on model quality, it prevents a wheel/axle assembly from ever completing an electrical circuit thereby shorting out the track itself.

Most concientious makers these days KNOW that a steamer MAY want to have powered track for other reasons like accessories, OR be able to run on a sparker's layout.

[Anonymous]

I am starting a new layout in the backyard. We have lots of big natural rocks that the pike will run thru and over. My question is about running track on flat sections of rock. Will I need to chisel out a trackbed over these sections. Also I will be building long sections of trestle works. Any info on trestle and bridge construction would be appreciated.

T.Ranes

[Anonymous]

I am starting a new layout in the backyard. We have lots of big natural rocks that the pike will run thru and over. My question is about running track on flat sections of rock. Will I need to chisel out a trackbed over these sections. Also I will be building long sections of trestle works. Any info on trestle and bridge construction would be appreciated.

T.Ranes