No painted joints, good. Stained joints, use a Q-Tip dipped in rubbing alcohol and gently rub it on all the surfaces to be joined. If the Q-Tip picks up any of the stain color then the stain has not yet cured in place. Set the project aside in a warm place with as much direct sun light as possible. Repeat daily until the Q-Tip is free of color. That's one q-tip dipped in alcohol one time and rubbed on all surfaces. Most likely only two or three times will work. Since rubbing alcohol is 90% water you need to give the water another day to dry. Now glue it up. As for the glue, TB2 vs TB3, both a very good. Use the one you have the most experience with. You said you have some TB3, since it has a longer curing time it will penetrate farther into the wood. After everything is glued up you will want to clean off any glue that was squeezed out of the joint by scraping or sanding.
Tom Trigg
Almost done. Just have to glue on about 1000 shingles! It was fun and took about a week of staining and gluing (so far). Thanks for all of the discussion and suggestions!
Marty
www.oakhurstrailroad.com
"Oakhurst Railroad" on Facebook
Nice job.
Obviously there is some distortion in the first pic causing everything to look narrower at the bottom than the top. This is caused by lens size and aperture. Not much can be done with phone camera or the smaller digital cameras, DSLR can adjust the focal length, aperture and shutter speed. Quick fix would be to take this type of pic in landscape as opposed to portrait.
Question; Is there a sill under the rails to span the door opening? A few years from now you may see some warpage and the door gap narrow or widen at the bottom. At that time (not now) you may want to add the sill to keep the door opening even. If and when you add the sill keep it narrow enough to fit between the ties so that you do not have to remove any ties.
You are right, just some distortion in the image. The opening is "square" and the doors fit just right.
No sill, but I see what you mean. I will watch for that, as well as glue joint failures. There are nails in the key wall joints, but not the roof attachment.
Thanks,
ttrigg Nice job. Obviously there is some distortion in the first pic causing everything to look narrower at the bottom than the top. This is caused by lens size and aperture. Not much can be done with phone camera or the smaller digital cameras, DSLR can adjust the focal length, aperture and shutter speed. Quick fix would be to take this type of pic in landscape as opposed to portrait. Question; Is there a sill under the rails to span the door opening? A few years from now you may see some warpage and the door gap narrow or widen at the bottom. At that time (not now) you may want to add the sill to keep the door opening even. If and when you add the sill keep it narrow enough to fit between the ties so that you do not have to remove any ties.
OK. All done with the 1000 shingles on the engine house. I also decided to put shingles on the adjacent freight shed. Thanks for your help and advice!
Looks good, nice job. I have a quick question. From this view I see the arc of a doorway. Does the kit come with the option of "door or wall"? If it has a door option I might go for one myself.
ttrigg Looks good, nice job. I have a quick question. From this view I see the arc of a doorway. Does the kit come with the option of "door or wall"? If it has a door option I might go for one myself.
The back wall has a wood insert to fill the arch. It can be built with an open arch. You would have to build your own 2nd set of doors.
Thanks for the info. I hate to be a pest, but could you give me the base width of the shed. What I'm thinking about is my 'display track'. I have a length of track atop the fireplace mantel which I rotate different engines. From looking at your 'front view' pic I can see that I would have to trim off the roof eve on the backside of the building. I know that for stability I would need to run several 'floor stringers' under the rails between the ties. My house shakes a bit more than most. The bedrock of the artillery firing range at Camp Pendleton resurfaces just below my house. The 'sounds of freedom' deliver a 1.1~1.5 earthquake quite regularly. I can live with a small bit of overhang, just not too much.
ttrigg Thanks for the info. I hate to be a pest, but could you give me the base width of the shed. What I'm thinking about is my 'display track'. I have a length of track atop the fireplace mantel which I rotate different engines. From looking at your 'front view' pic I can see that I would have to trim off the roof eve on the backside of the building. I know that for stability I would need to run several 'floor stringers' under the rails between the ties. My house shakes a bit more than most. The bedrock of the artillery firing range at Camp Pendleton resurfaces just below my house. The 'sounds of freedom' deliver a 1.1~1.5 earthquake quite regularly. I can live with a small bit of overhang, just not too much.
10.5 inches ...
Thanks. Guess I'm going to have to follow daughters instructions. Use a 2x12 to nake a new mantle top.
Do you have a link to the sectional engine shed you refer to? I don't see one on the site.
Also, just bought the Lionel 8-82105 on ebay. Will build it and see if my B-mann Shay fits in it.
Mike
What link are you referring to that doesn't work?
The engine house is surprisingly large and the Bachmann 1:20.3 3 truck Shay fits with room to spare in all dimensions, especially length.
If you aren't seeing the photos, you can go to my photobucket:
http://s112.photobucket.com/user/mkbradley_photos/library/?sort=3&page=1
Or Facebook "Oakhurst Railroad"
https://www.facebook.com/pg/Oakhurst-Railroad-207253652651132/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1385414734835012
One of the replies referenced Ozark having a sectional shed, but no link and I dont see it on their site. It also referenced Colorado Models building supplies with 2 links which worked.
A bit off subject, despite the fact I have very limited space in my basement for a model railroad other than Z perhaps, I still plan to construct a small large scale (don't you just love the play on words?) around-the-walls shelf layout just the same.
Power to pull my LGB Denver & Rio Grande Western combine will be the Hartland Locomotive Works Mighty Mack switcher of all things. OK, I hear y'all in the background slapping your collective knees (LOL) but I love these little critters just the same, besides, Mack did build the prototype that H-L-W used to base their model on as well!
There will be two Macks on the roster. The one for freight will get "steam locomotive" black while the one for passenger service will receive the yellow "Silverton" color scheme. Since my "layout" will be for personal entertainment only, I won't follow any prototypical rules.
The enginehouse I have selected for the Macks will be the Piko Goepplingen brick model with added modernized skylights. Though European in design, if you compare it to the old Revell brick operating enginehouse of the 50s, the simularity will surprise you.
As I mentioned, this project is for my personal entertainment only, and I'm going to do my very best to relive the one time slogan of Model Railroader, "Model Railroading is Fun!" 'nuff said? Thanks y'all. A Texan currently derailed in Deutschland.
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