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Not sure which way to go

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  • Member since
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Posted by grandpopswalt on Tuesday, March 3, 2009 8:53 AM

 Ralph,

Thank you for the link. Dimension Engineering is located in Akron, Ohio, just 20 minutes from where I live.

Walt

 

"You get too soon old and too late smart" - Amish origin
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Posted by cabbage on Tuesday, March 3, 2009 1:36 AM

I did put the link in the previous thread. 

Dimension Engineering are here:

http://www.dimensionengineering.com

You are looking for Sysren 10 and Sysren 25. While they might not be that expensive in the US after shipping, import duty and VAT -they are here! 

regards

ralph 

The Home of Articulated Ugliness

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Posted by grandpopswalt on Monday, March 2, 2009 7:32 PM



If you are going to do a lot of operations work then track power is really your only option. Battery is more suited to constant running as the start / stop drains the batteries faster (although you can get "regenerative ESCs" -at a price!) 


regards

ralph 



Ralph,

I wasn't aware that regen motor contollers were available for hobby use. Can you direct me to a website where I can get more info?

Thanks,

Walt

 

"You get too soon old and too late smart" - Amish origin
  • Member since
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Posted by cabbage on Monday, March 2, 2009 4:23 PM

 Well as you say in your entry -you are new to the concept. So, before you spend any money sit down with a pad and pencil and ask yourself a few questions.

1: How am I going to use the railway -operations /shunting /etc OR am I going to use it the scenic side and simply watch my locos and rolling stock running around in the flowers?

If you are going to do a lot of operations work then track power is really your only option. Battery is more suited to constant running as the start / stop drains the batteries faster (although you can get "regenerative ESCs" -at a price!) 

2: How long do I want my locos to run for?

This has to do with the power requirements of your loco. Batteries are rated in Amp Hours or Milli Amp Hours -to find the correct battery for your loco you do need to know some basics about the amount of current (Amps) that your loco will draw.

3: How much prep work am I willing to do before I start to run my locos on my rails? 

Both Brass and Stainless Steel produce non conductive oxides -but those of stainless steel form more slowly. As regard electrical conductivity Brass is far better than Stainless steel -however the short lengths that are normally used rather negate this factor! Electrical bonding of the rails is normal for track power and your best bet is to use a 100W+ soldering iron -rather than the induction "pistol" type. It is the sheer amount of heat that you have to put into the joint rather than the melting point of the solder that is required. You may require special fluxes to solder to Stainless Steel -depending on the alloy used.

regards

ralph 

The Home of Articulated Ugliness

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Not sure which way to go
Posted by red p on Monday, March 2, 2009 6:48 AM

Im new to the whole outdoor railroading concept, being an indoor HO scale modeler.

I like the idea of not using track power,but im not sure R/C is right for me. I want to be able to M/U 2 or 3 diesels togather so I like the idea of using DCC outside as well. Is it possible to use DCC with battary packs? If I do go with track power which is better brass or stainless?

P

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