I got all the grass up and layed the track down to get an idea where it is going. I measured the slopes I have to deal with. The front left of my layout is a 6 inch rise over 15 ft. (Just under 4% grade if I did it right) and goes to 4 inches over 15 ft on the front right of layout. I started laying rock around where I have to build it up. mainly the front of the layout. I am going to go with a more natural look. I plan on digging dirt from the back and brining it to the front to fill in the grade. That way I can use the back as cliffs. Eventually I plan on putting one or two turnouts in. That all depends if I can come up with the money. Here are some pics. As I get going it will make more sence
Here is the layout with the track down
The start of the wall. It is going to be one more stack on top of smaller stone. I am going to take the dirt from the back and bring it forward. This is to get the gade around 15 or less.
Snowshoe,
If I read you correctly you are planning to reduce that 4% grade using fill? Sounds like a good plan, and looks like a good start from the pictures (please keep them coming showing your progess).
What method of track laying / subroadbed method have you decided upon? Also you might want to check drainage as you go, making sure that any "fills" you create will allow rain water to flow downhill (as it usually likes to) without creating a dam (and/or potentially washing away your work and roadbed). Think of a heavy downpour where a lot of water falls in a short tme - can it drain away from your layout quickly... Some folks use strategically placed dry stream beds, culverts, etc with trestles, bridges etc as required to make a path for occasional water drainage at the lowest corners or sides of the layout.
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
It sure is nice having more daylight now. After work today I got to do a little more to my wall and built one drainage so far. This one will act as a drainage and a real stream bed. Im going to have a trestle go over the stream bed. Eventually I am going to put some cribbing to level it. The other side am going to do the same except the wall be lower and I am going to put another dry stream bad for drainage. Here is a picture of my latest progress.
For a roadbed I am going to dig a trench a few inches deep and then put the crusher fines in. This should do the trick I hope.
SNOWSHOE wrote: For a roadbed I am going to dig a trench a few inches deep and then put the crusher fines in. This should do the trick I hope.
Be sure to line the trench with some weedblock fabric, not so much to block weeds but to keep your roadbed ballast from sinking 1/2way to China in the soil
Have fun with your trains
vsmith wrote: SNOWSHOE wrote: For a roadbed I am going to dig a trench a few inches deep and then put the crusher fines in. This should do the trick I hope.Be sure to line the trench with some weedblock fabric, not so much to block weeds but to keep your roadbed ballast from sinking 1/2way to China in the soil
I second Vic's offering. No one gave me that warning and half my stones are now about half way there. You can now say the hard part is done. You gained the right of way, and appropriate terrain alongside for future growth. Like most of us, I'm sure yours will grow a little at a time, as funding becomes available, and scenic decisions are made. Looking forward to seing more photos as you empire grows.
Tom Trigg
Weather had not been nice, rainy and cold. I ordered my one turnout I plan on using for my mine/logging operation. This monday I plan on getting some top soil for my layout, then I have to figure were to bury my hose for my creek and pond then I will get the track started. Hopefully the weather starts to improve. I was also thinking of adding a swamp or bog to the layout. Still have to figure out how to do that and make it look real. But I have some time for that.
It looks like you're off to a good start on the Tin Kitty Line. I'm a bit envious of your soil, it looks very nice. The stuff in this area is a rocky to sandy red clay (like red concrete). Spring time is always great to pick up 1 gallon size shrubs at the home box stores (I just picked up a bunch). $7 is about half of what I pay at my "wholesale" nurseries.
-Brian
The rain stopped finally. I was able to get a little more work done. I started building my mountain/ridge. The picture below is the front of the ridge. When done it will extend to the back with a tunnel running through the back part. As it goes further back it will get a little higher. To the right is going to be a ravine with a creek. Eventually I plan on putting a fire tower on the back part of the mt (highest Point). Next step is to get some track down so I can get an idea where to build the tunnel. Once the tunnel is built I will build it up to form the rest of the mountain. I may need another load oftop soil. I also picked up a few more Dwarf Alberta spruce and some Dwarf boxwoods. Boxwoods were 5 and change and the spruce 7 bucks. Cant beat that price.
Looking good!
What are you going to use to make the tunnel? How long will it be? In my layout I have a short tunnel just in case I have to rescue a train but after a year now I have never had to. I was amazed how a tunnel adds to a layout...changes the pitch of sound as the train enters and exits.
Shawn
Like Charles, I too will freely give my two cents on tunnels. In my case the tunnel makes a 90-degree turn (8-ft dia.) inside the tunnel. My tunnel is under the waterfall for the Koi pond. Here are a few hints.
Like Charles I too, think that a tunnel adds another dimension to the garden empire. My tunnel has been in position now for just over 4 years. The only incident in the tunnel was a collision with a sleeping dog. I am a firm believer in "overdesigning" tunnels so as to prevent future disasters.
Right on ttrigg. I followed all those rules and no problems...ttrig, you may have been the one to advised me!
I used pressure treated lumber to form a box ...elevated it on some pavers so it won't lay flat on the ground to rot and covered it with rocks. Drainage is the key.
Snow, Keep them pixs a coming! There making me itch!
As for soil here AT, we have gumbo, sticky black stuff when wet and hard as creet when dry.
Toad
Wholesale, yeah I remember some of those rip off people down here when I did landscaping.
I havent been able to get much work done outside, been a typical Northeast spring, cold, damp misty weather. The only good thing about the weather is it gives my soil I added a chance to pack down nice. I have been trying to figure the best (cheapest) way to connect my rails. I am using the screws Aristo provides but I also wanted to solder jumper wires. One thing I learned is a can not solder if my life depended on it. Thanks to tangerine-jack who had a great way to do jumpers on the track. Using the screws that holds the ties to the track underneath, I make a loop at each end of the wire. then I slip the wire loop ends under the plastic tie. Then I put the screw through the loop and screw it into the rail. Why did I not think of that. Works out great. Only difference is I did not solder the loops. The loops I made seemed fairly secure. At least I have something to do until the weather clears up. Tomorrow looks like I nice day and I am off. going to start on my tunnel. Here is a pic of my jumpers.
Well the sun fiinally came out and it got real nice outside. I started work on my tunnel. So far it is coming out nice. Here is what I got so far.
Im using cinderblocks and paver stones for the roadbed through the tunnel. I might keep the paverstones as the roadbed. I may end up just using stones. Stone might help drainage better. Will see when I get a good rain storm. It works great I burried the cinder blocks in the ground a few inches and then fill the holes on top with stone and soil.
This is the tunnel with the roof. I had some nice large paverstones to use as the roof and another layer of cinder blocks. Again I will fill the holes in the cinder blocks with stone/soil. On top I will put plastic down to help keep moister/water out. Then I will put stone and rock on top to form a mountain.
This is a close up. I have some nice rock shaped like bricks with a nice texture to it. I will face the outside of the tunnel with those. This will close in the entrance of the tunnel to look more realistic. The tunnel is about 13inches high.
I never heard of a concrete stream that did not leak.
A bit of pond liner with small gravel glued on with contact cement looks pretty good -
Please use a liner! EPDM Liner @ home depot or other place, think it is 44mil thick.
altterrain wrote: I never heard of a concrete stream that did not leak.A bit of pond liner with small gravel glued on with contact cement looks pretty good - -Brian
In one of my Garden Pond books it says one way to make ponds and streams is concrete (cement) As long as you dont put fish in it. The lime in the cement is not good for them. You can get special paints to seal the cement. You have to put a bed of gravel first then wire mesh for reinforcement. More of a process but cheaper to do.
But I do like your idea using some contact cement to hold the rock down. I have plenty pond liner around. My biggest problem in the past with using the liners was holding the rock in place. Especially along the sides. I guess Contact cement can be bought at Lowes/Homedepot?? How does it hold up over time?
SNOWSHOE wrote: altterrain wrote: I never heard of a concrete stream that did not leak.A bit of pond liner with small gravel glued on with contact cement looks pretty good - -Brian I guess Contact cement can be bought at Lowes/Homedepot?? How does it hold up over time?
I guess Contact cement can be bought at Lowes/Homedepot?? How does it hold up over time?
If I can dig out the stuff we used on streams when I placed them in during a landscaping project I will get the can out and # of the product. I know I several cans left over.
Toadster
Thanks, if you can get the that # that would be a great help.
I started some work on my creek, so far this is what I came up with. I wanted the stream to start out as a calm creekand then end with steep sides. (Ravine) This is the point where the train will cross over. The upper end is going to be a bubbling spring. Not sure how I am going to acomplish this yet. I have a small hard pond liner. I am going to try and drill a hole in the bottom and stick the hose through the hole. I just have to come up with a way to seal it. Any ides??? Garden RR had a small article were some took a pvs pipe T and hooked either end of the T with a small hose. In the small hose they put small holes around it. This is what gives the bubbles. The stream is going to empty into a pool except the pool will be filled with rock, that way it gives the appeares that the stream goes underground. We have a few stream like that in my area. They just go underground, sort of disappear. That is where the pump will be located. Now this is all just ideas, Im sure things will change some especially if anyone has better ideas. Now I just have to get some contact cement to hold the rocks in place. What size rocks does everyone use for their RR creeks?
Here is the stuff http://www.touch-n-foam.com/, we used black.
Make dang sure they have it in stock! Took us one time 4 weeks just to get a box.
It is good for repair, waterfalls, fish, and you can use it in your yard also for other things.
Alt, might have another type to use, think he was/or is in the landscaping biz too
http://www.gardenponds.com/liner.htm
I sorry I did not know you wanted the tape type, here some.
I have found liner tape unreliable in larger streams it might work okay with a smaller one. The liner tape,either double sided or single sided, doesn't stretch as well as the liner when setting the stone in. I like use about a one foot or more overlap and a few generous zig zag beads of silicone in the overlap area when you are ready to stick the rocks on (at least the big ones).
The contact cement is available in home depot with the glue in the paint dept. It runs about $25 gallon. Make sure you get the regular and NOT the water clean up stuff. Its pretty much like rubber cement. I have also used silicone and the black urethane foam Toad mentioned to stick rocks on. I usually just use the foam (same expanding foam you use for insulation but black) for waterfall in fill between rock. I have not found the black coloring to be reliably UV resistant.
In my big stream for my backyard pond (pond is 12'x16' and runs down 60' of stream to a pump at the end) I used the urethane foam a bit the top end (first ten feet) where the sides are steeper and there is more kid and dog traffic. The rest of the stream is just designed to have less steep sides and a mix of stone sizes to held themselves in place. I usually need to do a bit of touch up twice a year mainly due to kids, dogs and birds (its very popular for bird bathing).
If you adhere just 50% of the stone to the liner that should be enough tohold all in place.
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