Joe thats great, I love seeing you having fun. matter of fact i think you'll have so much fun with G that you'll sale off all the HO.
I did that when I started rr #2. my first 3 rrs was track power till we moved here 10 years ago(rr #4).
Its growing pains....
PS, you know, its even easier out here to change sidings or add main lines than indoors. we don't have to rebuild bench work and replaster sections of mountains and to creat winter scenes is simple.
Is it REAL? or Just 1:29 scale?
Long live Outdoor Model Railroading.
I just posted under garden discussions ( DCC in "G" large scale mainlines that are 500'+: reply) to empire ll lines post and I'm bragging cause now with the track powered up I can run everything perfectly. I invested in this system because after comparing all options ( and I own a digitrax 8A super chief) I felt this was the best bang for the lowest buck. I still can't believe the main problem was simply track noise but it was and a light bulb fixed it. I don't clean my track much but I'm indoors still.
Everyone I meet runs a different system. I'm counting the minutes till QSI releases their new sound decoder that will work on all systems. I'm not going to tell anyone who runs strictly battery that mine's better when I use my cordless tools to death and love them. I can understand the benefits. I just had to figure out why so many told me G scale track power was bad when it worked for my HO so perfectly.
DCS has many advantages and I'm staying with it even outdoors when I expand. DCC is going to run on the outside loop cause I already own it. I might just brag someday that a battery train is runnin' too!
Thanx Marty,
For all the info here, I for now will stick with TP though.
As for the ol' com-pu-ta-tor, browser problem, I too been having some problems, tested Firefox, it worked fine, so I just dumped MS expl. and re-loaded it, Ok now.....
Byron
my browzer has been a pain.
the amp hours is whats important, I have for years run 18 volt tool batt in a single battery car with 2 or 3 powered units pulling 50 cars or so.
Now my 13 car USA pass set. I have one batt/RC unit to run the locos ( in the baggage car)and the 2nd batt/ switched, because I don't run at night much since I got afraid of the dark. runs my lights , no blinking. I installed some plugs I bought from Sir Tony (the RC God) and simple splice them into the under wires and pull out the drag pick ups for track power.
Battery cars are not stuck to the engine. I'm a heavy long hauler and the battery car belongs to the consist of which any group of locos can pull.
I think it would be funny seeing a steamer running w/o its batt car (the tender).
Hope this helps.
keep in mind, most all of us Batt/RC folks came from, track power (for 9 years in LS and for ever in HO scale) , so we KNOW about it.
BTY
I like batt cars because on my RR if a loco goes dead you can simply change out the batt at a station stop. in the locos, you'd have to go get another loco to bring the train in. plus its CHEAPER!!!!!! one RC car can run any locos I have.
Well I for one can't tell you due to my own personal RR, I model Short Steam trains...but I'm pretty sure Marty and many that run on his line do...You may want to check a couple of other forums...
LargeScale Central and My LargeScale...Marty hangs out on MLS most of the time....ask him, he'll let you know...I don't see why it couldn't be done!
cale
I guess no ones ABLE to do it.....this thread kinda died after I asked that Question above......Right everyboby ?????
imrnjr wrote:Byron -- I think Marty Cozad may be doing what your asking about. He does run very long trains but I'm not familiar with the passenger cars (if any) that he uses.Mark
Byron -- I think Marty Cozad may be doing what your asking about. He does run very long trains but I'm not familiar with the passenger cars (if any) that he uses.
Mark
Byron......Do intend to though.
Interesting subject here everybody......RC with BATTERY POWER
That said.....I would like to know THIS.....And I do not want to start any arguments that might cause this thread to be locked. It's just that I do not know how it could be feasibly accomplished to use BATTERY POWER to run what I choose to model.....
My Question...
Does/has anyone, in the battery arena, tried to design/come up with a way to "say" run a consist of 18 of Charlie Ro's, USA Trains, streamlined passenger cars, strait from the factory, lit up with batteries???? Behind a set of ABBA F-3's with a 2-K-2 Phoenix installed also, ALL.......BATTERY POWERED????
Please let me know if this is possible, what I mean here "is" are you doing it right now?? My question is, not how would you suggest that it be done, but is anyone out there doing it right now....Powering a consist as I've described with RC and BATTERIES????
I do not run in the SHORT TRAIN, Narrow Gauge Arena, I have chosen, to design and run, what I grew up with, and saw running across "Main Line America", say roughly through to the very early 60's.
I have chosen predominantly the Great Northern RR to model, the era of the "Streamliners" thru the transition years from steam to early diesel power, 1947/48 to say 1961/62.
LONG Streamlined Passenger Trains, 12 to 18 cars or more, multi engined, all lit up at night.....what a beautiful sight......
Mallets, with long drags of Freight, 30 to 50 cars long.....IMPRESSIVE, to say the least....
Any one doing it???
Yes it's already been suggested, change the car lighting to LED's...."Ever disassemble one of those cars??" I think....let's not think about that......
By the way, good name.
The Sub C's that come in a lot of the drill packs fit well into most cars if they are removed from the plastic cases. The one's that I buy are from Harbor Freight and I get the 18volt vareity on sale for around $10 for the pack. Put two in parallel for more amperage. The one's that I buy only have 3 screws in the case that need to be removed. Works like a champ.
Regards,
M. Gilger - President and Chief Engineer MM&G web
Web Site: http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/
Mark.
Although I make the RCS equipment I have no vested interest in batteries. Neither in type nor brand.I personally choose good quality Sub C NiCd batteries.I have been doing this for over 20 years and that experience has taught me which works and which works well.Good quality Sub C NiCd's may be more expensive than cheapo batteries sold to kids for the R/C cars. They do not last as long as better quality equivalents. Or give such sustained long run times.
It is virtually impossible to get drill batteries to fit inside all but the largest locos. So which types to go for will depend on the make and size of the locos you would convert to battery R/C.
Best wishes,Tony Walsham (Remote Control Systems) http://www.rcs-rc.comModern technology. Old fashioned reliability.
Yes, I always get at least 4+ hours with the Annie (RCS Elite and Soundtraxx) and the 14.4v NiCads supplied by Dave Goodson and NWRCS installed in tender...the first run of the Mack with 9.6v NiMH was over 10 hours...nope not kidding either, nobody here could believe it...seemed like it was the Pink Bunny-still going... just put it down on the tracks and turned it on...it ran all morning, afternoon into the dark of the evening...nowadays it can usually go for about 6+ hours
Yep, I have grades, no idea how severe but steep enough to make me recently rebuild a section...see my build log here My entire loop is runs up and down a grade...
I have 4 engines awaiting Batteries and RC...LGB Diesel Switcher, Climax, American, and ST Porter...
calenelson wrote: mabry wrote: By going to battery operation rather than rail power, aren't you just trading one PITA for another? I mean batteries have limited power, often require a fixed trailing battery car, and are not usually charged up when you need them. This has not been the case for me thus far. I usually run my engines as long as I wish and then plug into charge when ready to go in for the day...I use a MAHA smart charger that will not over-charge the batteries if I forget to unplug. All of my installs thus far (minus my first ever-no longer inservice, using parts elsewhere) do not utilize trail cars. I can normally get 4+ hours of running with my 10 Wheeler, and 6+ with my Mack Switcher...
mabry wrote: By going to battery operation rather than rail power, aren't you just trading one PITA for another? I mean batteries have limited power, often require a fixed trailing battery car, and are not usually charged up when you need them. This has not been the case for me thus far. I usually run my engines as long as I wish and then plug into charge when ready to go in for the day...I use a MAHA smart charger that will not over-charge the batteries if I forget to unplug. All of my installs thus far (minus my first ever-no longer inservice, using parts elsewhere) do not utilize trail cars. I can normally get 4+ hours of running with my 10 Wheeler, and 6+ with my Mack Switcher...
By going to battery operation rather than rail power, aren't you just trading one PITA for another? I mean batteries have limited power, often require a fixed trailing battery car, and are not usually charged up when you need them.
This has not been the case for me thus far. I usually run my engines as long as I wish and then plug into charge when ready to go in for the day...I use a MAHA smart charger that will not over-charge the batteries if I forget to unplug. All of my installs thus far (minus my first ever-no longer inservice, using parts elsewhere) do not utilize trail cars. I can normally get 4+ hours of running with my 10 Wheeler, and 6+ with my Mack Switcher...
Interesting. I haven't heard folks say they can get those times without a trail car. Do you have grades on your layout. I have a 3.8% grade. If I thought I could put a battery inside the engine and be able to run 4+ hours every time, that might sway me.
What kind of batteries do you use?
Well, All ya'll can gripe and moan!
I would go with Dave Goodson RCS. Why, man knows more than I, ALOT more! Yeah I have brass track and a NCE system. POC system is all it is!!! Yeah I wanted to have a open house where the trains could run on computer but rather have a better RCS system to do the job right the 1st time! I have backed Tony & Daves products because they DO work.
NOTE for small minded people: I am not paid by RCS/Tony/Dave, just a customer!
mabry wrote: By going to battery operation rather than rail power, aren't you just trading one PITA for another? I mean batteries have limited power, often require a fixed trailing battery car, and are not usually charged up when you need them. This has not been the case for me thus far. I usually run my engines as long as I wish and then plug into charge when ready to go in for the day...I use a MAHA smart charger that will not over-charge the batteries if I forget to unplug. All of my installs thus far (minus my first ever-no longer inservice, using parts elsewhere) do not utilize trail cars. I can normally get 4+ hours of running with my 10 Wheeler, and 6+ with my Mack Switcher...of course in that amount to time the Kids usually finish their playing outside and are ready to go back in the house. With the onboard installs (in tender or cab) you "can" add a trail car to extend times, if it became necessary...I have not reached that point-yet. I am saying this, not to stir up a religious war in this thread, but to point out that both systems have their cons as well as pros. It sounds like you have already invested time, effort and $ into one system. Be sure you want to drop all that before going the other route.I'm sure ,like anything, they both have pros and cons. (the only con I can think of for battery power is the down-time you have during installs...that said, I have 3 little kids which take a great deal of time and $, so sometimes the Trains have to wait). When I began in LS Trains...I weighed both, and decided on No Track Power only Battery RC. I have been Really Pleased with my choice for battery power! It has worked well for me. Like track power, the initial investment can be steep (depending on how deep you delve) but it really worked out to be about the same as a real nice Bridgeworks transformer...minus any jumpers, good joints, block wiring and clean track. I have only bought "used track" the money I saved there helped fund the rc aspect of my "choice"...and that is what it really all boils down to...what you want-your choice...It's "your' RR!- so in the end, I'd again encourage everyone to study for yourself...ask lot's of questions, then dip your toe into whatever pool you choose.... cale
This has not been the case for me thus far. I usually run my engines as long as I wish and then plug into charge when ready to go in for the day...I use a MAHA smart charger that will not over-charge the batteries if I forget to unplug. All of my installs thus far (minus my first ever-no longer inservice, using parts elsewhere) do not utilize trail cars. I can normally get 4+ hours of running with my 10 Wheeler, and 6+ with my Mack Switcher...of course in that amount to time the Kids usually finish their playing outside and are ready to go back in the house. With the onboard installs (in tender or cab) you "can" add a trail car to extend times, if it became necessary...I have not reached that point-yet.
I am saying this, not to stir up a religious war in this thread, but to point out that both systems have their cons as well as pros. It sounds like you have already invested time, effort and $ into one system. Be sure you want to drop all that before going the other route.
I'm sure ,like anything, they both have pros and cons. (the only con I can think of for battery power is the down-time you have during installs...that said, I have 3 little kids which take a great deal of time and $, so sometimes the Trains have to wait). When I began in LS Trains...I weighed both, and decided on No Track Power only Battery RC. I have been Really Pleased with my choice for battery power! It has worked well for me. Like track power, the initial investment can be steep (depending on how deep you delve) but it really worked out to be about the same as a real nice Bridgeworks transformer...minus any jumpers, good joints, block wiring and clean track.
I have only bought "used track" the money I saved there helped fund the rc aspect of my "choice"...and that is what it really all boils down to...what you want-your choice...It's "your' RR!- so in the end, I'd again encourage everyone to study for yourself...ask lot's of questions, then dip your toe into whatever pool you choose....
heinzm57 wrote:Tony,Take a Futaba or Hi-Tec 2 stick R/C US$40 and combine it with an EVO-2B for US$80 and you have a Total of US$120. Yep I did it a few years ago, (think it cost me $113 then) to get started in RC...Worked like a champ with my Bachmann Dizzie, an 18v Drill Battery all inside an AMS Stock Car...Never Overheated, Never a glitch. period. Why do i have to get into an argument with anyone here.I have tried this "Futaba thing". You get fast and stop. I have tried the heaviest receiver i could get and it would not handle 14.4 V and 3 AMPs. The engine will go for 3 seconds and than stop because the receiver is overheating. I'm not sure anyone is arguing, but you may have missed the point?..the receiver is by Futaba, but the "Throttle-EVO2B" Tony mentioned is the Action-RC EVO (an RCS Brand). You install it between the receiver and the motor/lights/sound....it's what I mentioned above, It is "Glitch Free" -no "get fast and stop" and no problems with any load I could apply, even with my 18v setup! And as far as "Streetprice "goes: All prices i have given you are Mailorder Prices. The price for the RCS i got from Don Sweet .I can't help with pricing, I buy all of my gear from Dave Goodson on the Left Coast! End of conversation.
Tony,
Take a Futaba or Hi-Tec 2 stick R/C US$40 and combine it with an EVO-2B for US$80 and you have a Total of US$120.
Yep I did it a few years ago, (think it cost me $113 then) to get started in RC...Worked like a champ with my Bachmann Dizzie, an 18v Drill Battery all inside an AMS Stock Car...Never Overheated, Never a glitch. period.
Why do i have to get into an argument with anyone here.I have tried this "Futaba thing". You get fast and stop. I have tried the heaviest receiver i could get and it would not handle 14.4 V and 3 AMPs. The engine will go for 3 seconds and than stop because the receiver is overheating.
I'm not sure anyone is arguing, but you may have missed the point?..
the receiver is by Futaba, but the "Throttle-EVO2B" Tony mentioned is the Action-RC EVO (an RCS Brand). You install it between the receiver and the motor/lights/sound....
it's what I mentioned above, It is "Glitch Free" -no "get fast and stop" and no problems with any load I could apply, even with my 18v setup!
And as far as "Streetprice "goes: All prices i have given you are Mailorder Prices. The price for the RCS i got from Don Sweet .
I can't help with pricing, I buy all of my gear from Dave Goodson on the Left Coast!
End of conversation.
Cale
Link to RCS "Evo" and Drill Battery Post from MLS Archives
heinzm57 wrote: These are the prices for the most common R/Cs Transmitter Receiver Airwire $219 $149 $368RCS $80 $176 $256Crest $60.74 $95.54 $156.28These are $US Now....i am not saying that either one or the other is the best, i just stating a fact that Crest is the cheapest of the most well known ones. And i am not talking about some jerry-rigged affair like toy R/C for cars or boats. I have tried them, and they wont handle the Amps i use.
These are the prices for the most common R/Cs
Transmitter Receiver
Airwire $219 $149 $368
RCS $80 $176 $256
Crest $60.74 $95.54 $156.28
These are $US
Now....i am not saying that either one or the other is the best, i just stating a fact that Crest is the cheapest of the most well known ones. And i am not talking about some jerry-rigged affair like toy R/C for cars or boats. I have tried them, and they wont handle the Amps i use.
Now Now Heinz. Be fair.You are comparing the MSRP of both AirWire and RCS with the street price of Crest.Just so other readers can compare costs accurately perhaps they would like to know the MSRP of the Crest TX is US$91 and the Crest 75 Mhz RX is US$ 144. Gives a total of US$235.
Also, The comparable RCS is US$80 for the TX-24 which has unlimited engine capability and the BASIC-2 on board is US$130. A total of US$210. If you wanted the BASIC-3 the total would be US$230. Still $5 under the cheapest TE.
Just like Crest, you can also buy RCS at discounted prices. Just ask your local dealer.
As to the jibe about using car type R/C. You have obviously never used the EVO series I make. They are designed specifically for LS Trains and have the same smooth reliable performance of the RCS systems. The reason is they use the same controller hardware. Plus, they are guaranteed "Glitch Free".Cost wise they are well below any other R/C systems.Take a Futaba or Hi-Tec 2 stick R/C US$40 and combine it with an EVO-2B for US$80 and you have a Total of US$120.Way way cheaper than Crest or any of the others. Even the EVO-3B would be only US$140.
A reply to the first post...
I purchased a pair of Aristo Trackside receivers back when I was running track power. When switching to battery, I really did not want to pay any more than I had to, so I removed the receivers from their cases and fixed them up in two boxcars with battery packs. Yes, they are bulky, but they are reliable, have a good range, and did not cost me additionally.
heinzm57 wrote: Hi Tony, Maybe your RCS is cheaper in Australia, but if i get it , i have to get it from the US....they get it from Australian. I am in Canada. As you can see, by the time this thing takes a trip around the world it gets much more expensive than the Crest. Also , with the Crest i can run 10 engines with one receiver, if i change the frequency it gives me another 90. The new RCS can only run 3 engines.Heinz
Hi Tony,
Maybe your RCS is cheaper in Australia, but if i get it , i have to get it from the US....they get it from Australian. I am in Canada. As you can see, by the time this thing takes a trip around the world it gets much more expensive than the Crest. Also , with the Crest i can run 10 engines with one receiver, if i change the frequency it gives me another 90. The new RCS can only run 3 engines.
Heinz
Heinz.
The RCS can control an unlimited number of same frequency locos from the one TX-24 handpiece. Yes it can run three trains separately and independently at precisely the same time.Whilst I know you can theoretically run up to 100 engines with the Crest TE on board, have you actually operated more than 3 at the same time on the same track without crashing them?As to pricing.Being in Canada you can order the RCS brand direct from me if you wish or any Canadian dealer who cares to get it in for you.BTW, I do make other types of R/C ESC's that when combined with (very) low cost 2 channel R/C like those used for R/C cars and boats, permits an overall cost quite a bit less than the Crest system. Just like the RCS brand, the EVO brand is available direct from Australia or through any Canadian dealer that cares to order it for you.
DO NOT even waist the thought of using Locolink. I waisted a lot of time and money.
I wish MTH would sell there engine receiver/controller.
How does the RCS cost compare versus the trackside version of Aristo T/E that seems to be popular (in some circles) for trailing car installations?
Plus, doesn't one also have to convert all of their passenger rolling stock to LED/battery if they want those cars lit at night, and factor in that cost as well?
Al
Well actually Heinz,
The Crest onboard R/C TX and RX combo is not the least expensive R/C system available.
I have been using Crest/Aristo Transmitter/Receivers in 4 engines so far. ( LGB streetcar, Bachmann 10 Wheeler, scratchbuild Boxcab and a scatchbuild railbus))They are the cheapest ones on the market.They work quite well. One thing one has to watch for , is that the package has not been opened when you get it. I got one which did not work at all. Some lame-brain fried it and send it back. Right now i am working on a Bachmann 45 ton. The PC inside the motorblocks is a pain to get out.
I am still trying to figure out how i could leave the original electronics in there , and use a DP/DT switch. If thats possible , i could use it on trackpower too.
Correction on the PC board inside the motorblock . Just slide the shafts in the gears back, undo all the screws, and take it out. I can't see why some people had to take it out in pieces
Mark,
that is the best thing to do...well at least I think so, I reasearched it to Death before I decided on what system to use!
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