forum members assessment of the various RC vendors set ups [?]

[lownote]

I run a small layout, maybe 4-500 feet, with track power and aristo RC. I'm pretty happy with it. I used a lot of clamps and conductive paste when I put the track together, and i don't have any continuity problems. I run an aristo track cleaning caboose for a few laps before a running session,  and that fixes power pickup. I have two aristo steamers and a bachmann annie all with onboard 75 mhz decoders. It works quite well--range is fine, it's responsive, has been reliable after a few screwups that were my fault. You can run long trains with lights and smoke, athough my very unprototypical line has some very big grades on it. It's reasoably cheap and customer service is good.

 

For me it was easier to get a reliable track and the n do RC with track power. Batteries seem like a pain in the neck to me, much more so thatn cleaning track, but I'm going to convert an old LGB diesel  4 wheeler to batteries to see how I like it. 

 

 

[Anonymous]

EMPIRE II LINE,

Heck man, you still don't have your correct wires (size) connected to your track! You just still have the temp. wires hooked up....

All in DUE Time, All in DUE Time, Freaky Frog. At least it IS running though !!!!

Byron C.

 

Waiting for a large train shop to be built. And that IS the only way to get materials to where it goes is right over the RR, dip!

[EMPIRE II LINE]

EMPIRE II LINE,

Heck man, you still don't have your correct wires (size) connected to your track! You just still have the temp. wires hooked up....

All in DUE Time, All in DUE Time, Freaky Frog. At least it IS running though !!!!

Byron C.

 

[Anonymous]

EMPIRE II LINE,

Heck man, you still don't have your correct wires (size) connected to your track! You just still have the temp. wires hooked up....

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Byron -- et al.... sorry 'bout the delay in getting back to this thread, but have been busy adding in a couple of sidings  for a stockyard and town on the railway. 

To your specific question I'm running aristo stainless with a combination of SplitJaw and Aristo clamps.  I think the biggest problem I've got now is I didn't use the clamps on both sides at every joint....so I get a cold spot at those joints with all the dirt from an unfinished garden and the way the track moves in the Texas weather 45 to 90 and back in the spring and 70 to 100+ in the summer.  Then there is the dirt issue splashing up on the track and fouling the wheels or  pickups on the locomotives as well......

But with the completion of the sidings work will start on the water feature and final landscaping will begin so much of the open dirt will get plantings or stone mulch which should minimize the splash effects.... and clamps are being used to eliminate those cold spots as they show up. 

Now if I could just find the money to buy ...uh....uh...err..ummm.... my wish list is gettin' pretty dadgum'd long, so I think I'll concentrate on getting  the railway near done..... and yeah I think I like building it more than running it!!!!

Thanks for the spirited information dispensed here!!

Mark

 

Say Mark,

I guess at this juncture in your endevor it would have to be a satisfaction from building more than running.....otherwise you'd have to say, what's the use.....hopefully your not being nagged----- why'd you spend all the time & money..Know what I mean ???

I always go with the adage of, "get something up and running ASAP", before the interest wanes. Either yours or-------......

That can definitaly happen when you invest this kind of money and effort, and can't see the fruits of your labors, any time SOON.......that of being able to "run a train"---trouble Free...

Isn't that really what this is all about though......After building 4 previous, actually 5, layouts in "G" scale, I decided I wanted this one to be built in a manner that it would eliminate those very frustrations you are experiencing, as well as others.

That is one of the main reasons I built this layout as I have this time around.....Mostly Elevated...Biggest problem I have is the Goofy squirrels thinking they are safe, UP in the air a bit, and the sand they get on the rail heads from their feet, it's only minimal though.

I usually just push the Aristo Track Cleaning Car around the layout a few times, with the first trains out of a day, and I'm off and running/operating......I love it this way.....and I don't have to take them on/off the track all the time.....what with the pull through storage room and all.

 

Takes me the most time, early in the morning if necessary, to blow the DEW and Debris off with the blower, we get really thick DEW of a morning this time'a year.

By building it UP, than adding the other things as I go, and building UP TO IT, the frustrations you are experiencing are almost virtually gone.....And I still get the joy outta modeling TOO.

I can sit back, of an early morning, and really enjoy sipping a cup/or two of this....

 

As well as few of my lady, AMBER, in the heat of the day.....Her daddy is Mick, brother is Bud, Last names Wiser......And I don't even have to worry about how they run either, cause they continue to, pretty much trouble free.....

 

But tell you honestly Mark, and I do believe, YOU TOO, will have to admit it, and agree, that everyone who see's it, wants to see you operating a train !!!!!! ASAP, might add.....

If'en you'd ever want to just communicate one-on-one some time, just drop me a line and I'll get back to ya.....

Have Fun,

               Byron C. 

      

[imrnjr]

O'kay.....I've been attempting to run track power, got hundreds of dollars of clamps, got cleaning cars, got a PITA every time I think about running.....

Mark 

Okay Mark,

QUESTION IS, are you using Brass track ???  If so maybe that's your track power/clean PROBLEM. If you've been following this on going saga (Battery Discussion).

I've made the switch to Stainless Steel track, and DO intend to continue using my Track Power system, because for what I am doing it seems to be the best route to go. If you on the other-hand are planing to run smaller scaled train consists and mainly freight, than maybe ??? Yes, switch to a battery system.

Marty C. is especially a person well worth talking to about the pros of battery operation......

Byron C.  

Byron -- et al.... sorry 'bout the delay in getting back to this thread, but have been busy adding in a couple of sidings  for a stockyard and town on the railway. 

To your specific question I'm running aristo stainless with a combination of SplitJaw and Aristo clamps.  I think the biggest problem I've got now is I didn't use the clamps on both sides at every joint....so I get a cold spot at those joints with all the dirt from an unfinished garden and the way the track moves in the Texas weather 45 to 90 and back in the spring and 70 to 100+ in the summer.  Then there is the dirt issue splashing up on the track and fouling the wheels or  pickups on the locomotives as well......

But with the completion of the sidings work will start on the water feature and final landscaping will begin so much of the open dirt will get plantings or stone mulch which should minimize the splash effects.... and clamps are being used to eliminate those cold spots as they show up. 

Now if I could just find the money to buy ...uh....uh...err..ummm.... my wish list is gettin' pretty dadgum'd long, so I think I'll concentrate on getting  the railway near done..... and yeah I think I like building it more than running it!!!!

Thanks for the spirited information dispensed here!!

Mark

[EMPIRE II LINE]

O'kay.....I've been attempting to run track power, got hundreds of dollars of clamps, got cleaning cars, got a PITA every time I think about running.....

Mark 

 

Okay Mark,

QUESTION IS, are you using Brass track ???  If so maybe that's your track power/clean PROBLEM. If you've been following this on going saga (Battery Discussion).

I've made the switch to Stainless Steel track, and DO intend to continue using my Track Power system, because for what I am doing it seems to be the best route to go. If you on the other-hand are planing to run smaller scaled train consists and mainly freight, than maybe ??? Yes, switch to a battery system.

Marty C. is especially a person well worth talking to about the pros of battery operation......

Byron C.  

[Marty Cozad]

Woow, is work getting busy. I looked at my computer clock, it took 50 seconds to load up all the items before I could reply.

 any way I had a good chat with Byron on the phone, we could have talked for hours. But if I had his RR I'd do the same as he does. My running times are short because I love building the RR more than running it.

Battery is great for those who have had problems with track power and want to try another way.

I defend batt/RC mainly when I hear "false" things about it.

I was nine years a track power guy. till this RR.

As Forest Gump would say, "thats all I have to say about that!"

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Well Ralph,

That's a good bit of figur'in how to maybe do it, BUTTTTT....as already mentioned.....not for me at this time.

I think I will just stick with what is pretty much working for me....track power.

An just continue to....... start-go forward-stop-reverse-stop-go forward-stop-idle-run four hours-blow the horn 50 time-stop-reverse-stop-unhook-pull forward-stop-back up-stop-high ball two more hours-ring the bell 40 times-blow the horn another 50 times-run slow for 40 minutes-stop.....and turn off the power pack.PERIOD..... end of a good day of running an sip'en.

Byron Custer   

[cabbage]

If you would like to give me the type of bulb used I can easily re-calculate the battery requirements. But, if you would like 22Volts then you would have to use:

6 x 7.2Volt 1800mAh "Tamiya Race Packs" which works out at a (UK price) of £5.26p or USD$62.49cents

I cannot give you the power requirements of your receiver because I do not know which you would intend using -but I do use FUTABA and ELECTRONIZE -so I will re-jig for that.

Assuming an ELECTRONIZE FR30HX 30Ampere controller the consumption would be (circa) 0.25Watts...

So, going on the information so far, you have a run time of 1hour 20minutes -this assumes a smooth start up and slow down of 2 minutes each side.

Recharge time is, (according to the specs), 7 minutes per pack. My son has a solar re-charger that takes 4 hours to charge a pack -but it costs him nothing to run

Using Lithium Polymer batteries you could achieve far higher run times -however currently they do not fit within a Gauge 1 UK loading -but I am assured that they will soon do so.

Oh Toad....

I was born in 1957. My father was Chindit serving in the British Army (he was known as "The German"). He and my aunt Bettina survied the Second World war -him by being in Burma her by being the "control twin". The other 12 children died somewhere in the camps in the forest of Eastern Germany and Western Poland. My great uncle Kirten and Geogis suceessfully burnt down the Great Synagogue of Leipzig in 1936 destroying centuries of art work and more importantly thousands of records -enabling hundred to survive and flee. A plaque on the wall of the new Synagogue states their names with pride.

Later on I taught school wearing flak jacket and learned to dig out of the rubble arms and legs of my former pupils after a morter or rocket attack. You very quickly learned by touch which were still connected to living bodies.

regards

ralph

[Anonymous]

Ok, now I am stumpped....... BUT I do understand the racing packs and the power of so.

Stummped Toad

An here I always thought you was just the TOAD.......A STUMP ALSO ????.......HMMMMMM.....

Ok, I hang out at a stump from time to time. The stump gives me answers. But yet has not told me what Ralph was doing during WW2.

Toad

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Ok, now I am stumpped....... BUT I do understand the racing packs and the power of so.

Stummped Toad

An here I always thought you was just the TOAD.......A STUMP ALSO ????.......HMMMMMM.....

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Thank you,

Let us assume that you run 18 cars each of 12lbs in weight giving a total weight of 216lbs and a scale speed of 60mph. Note pounds here are used as "American Customs" and not pounds "Avoir Dupois"

This gets converted to metric to produce:

Mass = 97.97Kg
Velocity = 2.06mS-1
Acc = 0.08ms2

Therefore the power requirement to accelerate your train is:
97.97 x 9.81 x 0.08 = 76.88Watts

Running speed at 60mph (scale) is:
97.97 x 9.81 x 0.05 = 48.05Watts

If you remember the power developed by the motors in my Meyer was:

56.56Watts for a load of 38Kg or 1Watt per 0.671Kg

Your combination is

48.05Watts for 97.97Kg or 1Watt per 2.038Kg

Assuming a constant voltage of 18Volts then a number of NiCd "9.6V Tamiya Race Packs" @ 2400mAh should do the job. Personally I would use four.

This gives a, (UK price), of 4 x £6.99 or USD$55 36cents

Q.E.D.

regards

ralph

Well Done Chapp,

I'll indulge you a bit more..... 

So now, let's say that does power the engines, OK.

Although I don't think it would, I have to run this consist at a voltage setting of 20 to 22 volts, NOT 18, to get the proper speed, otherwise it's only moving at about 40 MPH scale speed, I do have a regulated 18.6 V- DC power pack, also a "Bridgewerks", it does not properly run the train at a fast enough scale speed ........

Do those calculations take into consideration the 2K2 sound board also, also the radio receiver board?? Fact is, that these engines alone, not pulling any cars, the four of them alone, draw about 10 amps, at 20 to 22 volts, per the digital readouts.

I don't believe any of your calculations take into consideration the bulbs in the coaches either, so what would be required to power them for any length of time.....TOO!!!!!

Tell me now Ralph, just how long would the charge-up time be on the engine batteries you've suggested here, and also would you please tell me in simple terms how long would they run this set of engines, at the stated speed 60 MPH. For an hour ? Two hours ? Three or four hours, MAYBE, between charges ??

I can run all day on my track power system, I think that's longer than the Eveready BUNNY !!!! 

I have spoken with Marty C. He does run a battery powered consist of 7 of these cars behind a set of ABA E-Units, that's a good bit shorter of a train than what I am running though.....Also the Aristo E's do pull less power too. Don't recall for sure, how long he said it'd run between chargings though.....

For now though I think with what I am doing and the fact that I am running on Stainless steel track, with little to no cleaning required, I'll stick with track power....

Byron Custer

 

[Anonymous]

Ok, now I am stumpped....... BUT I do understand the racing packs and the power of so.

Stummped Toad

[cabbage]

Thank you,

Let us assume that you run 18 cars each of 12lbs in weight giving a total weight of 216lbs and a scale speed of 60mph. Note pounds here are used as "American Customs" and not pounds "Avoir Dupois"

This gets converted to metric to produce:

Mass = 97.97Kg
Velocity = 2.06mS-1
Acc = 0.08ms2

Therefore the power requirement to accelerate your train is:
97.97 x 9.81 x 0.08 = 76.88Watts

Running speed at 60mph (scale) is:
97.97 x 9.81 x 0.05 = 48.05Watts

If you remember the power developed by the motors in my Meyer was:

56.56Watts for a load of 38Kg or 1Watt per 0.671Kg

Your combination is

48.05Watts for 97.97Kg or 1Watt per 2.038Kg

Assuming a constant voltage of 18Volts then a number of NiCd "9.6V Tamiya Race Packs" @ 2400mAh should do the job. Personally I would use four.

This gives a, (UK price), of 4 x £6.99 or USD$55 36cents

Q.E.D.

regards

ralph

[EMPIRE II LINE]

I will be polite about it too...

A: How much power is used by the locomotive(S) to drag your combination around? UNKNOWN
B: How much power is pumped into your track? KNOWN 482Watts

For some reason (as yet unrevealed) it is taking VAST amounts of power to run your combination. I cannot understand why you are pumping this amount of power into your track without cooking the locomotives or the electronics -remember most soldering irons are only 15 to 25Watts(!)

regards

ralph

 

Yes it's already been suggested, change the car lighting to LED's...."Ever disassemble one of those cars??"     I think....let's not think about that......

Byron 

 

Well I'm Back Ralph,

I thought it might do well to try and drop back to your earlier question here, and give you some kind of a (revelation). Also, I'd like to ASK you, are you familiar with any of this equipment that I am describing ? Specifically the USA extruded aluminum Passenger cars....?

SO NOW, First of all, I might try and help, "YOU" to understand, (reveal to you), the reason for all of the "power consumption", maybe a better description, the "Amperage/Volage", being used/consumed/required, or should I say, as shown as being used, on the digital read-outs of the "Bridgewerks" power pack, to run this consist: 4-USA, F-3's, ABBA, with Pheonix sound card installed, pulling 18 lighted 32 inch long, aluminum passenger cars.

Let me also remind "YOU", once again, I am not a "rocket scientist" with all kinds of Phd's, Msd's, Lsd's, stroids, or even a Sheeps Skin, for that matter, as I've already said, "I", ONLY, bearly have, a HS (HIGH SCHOOL) diploma.

I am just a "PO BOY", originally from the otherside'a the tracks in Akron, Ohio. With a bit of Vo-Tech Electronics training, and a "Few" years of model railroading experience. I've also picked up a "Few" other things, along the way, through the "LIFE OF HARD KNOCKS".

DO "YOU", Understand now, RALPH......

 

May "I" EMPHASIZE NOW, that as "I" SEE IT.......... The HUGE power consumption, AS "I" SEE IT, is because of, all of the incandescent light bulbs inside of the 18 passenger cars.

And "I" am not really interested, nor desirous of replacing all of the bulbs with LED's....At this juncture....See my earlier quote please..... 

SOOOOOOO NOW.....The real problem here .....EMPHASIS AGAIN, AS "I" SEE IT..... with battery power............ IS.......not what power/amperage, do the engines require.........only..... To power them......BUTTTTTTTTTTT.....How LARGE the ADDITIONAL batteries would need to be,,,,,,,, just to power all of the incandescent lights in the 18 passenger cars as well.....or even, HOW MANY....more batteries..........would be required ????

Please take the time to read my original QUESTION..... I already know that "MANY" people are already using Battery Power for their engines, to pull long freight trains, as well as shorter passenger trains, right NOW.....also in Narrow Gauge operations.

BASIC ORIGINAL QUESTION: HAS/IS anyone doing it (operating a consist similar to the one described) right NOW, or figured out a way to do it, at a reasonable cost, in the battery arena though ???

 

SO NOW, if YOU still want to persist with your calculations.....Each car weighs in at, about 12 Pounds, (just a bathroom scale used), I'll let YOU do the transfer to Kilos.....All made of extruded aluminum with cast trucks, wheels, and couplers.....Plastic ???? Maybe only a pound per car....I'd guess.....

Cheers??? 

Byron     

We all, CAN, get our "Hoofe" stuck !!!..... in a "Rut" at times. This hobby has lots of room for any to model what ever they choose and enjoy modeling, "I", for one, love to model and choose, as I've already said, that which "I" personally observed and enjoyed seeing as a child, growing-up, so do it !!!!   

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Ralph,

I'll get back to you on this, at a later time, OK

Byron

[cabbage]

I will be polite about it too...

A: How much power is used by the locomotive(S) to drag your combination around? UNKNOWN
B: How much power is pumped into your track? KNOWN 482Watts

For some reason (as yet unrevealed) it is taking VAST amounts of power to run your combination. I cannot understand why you are pumping this amount of power into your track without cooking the locomotives or the electronics -remember most soldering irons are only 15 to 25Watts(!)

(Forgive me if I use metric).

If I accelarate 1Kg to 1m per second in 1 second, I use 9.81 Watts.

If I assume a scale speed of 60mph =(88 yards per second x 36 / 39.4) / 29 = 2.06 metres per second.
The time to bring a 12 car set to 60mph with a 1950's 3000HP DELTIC locomotive is known to be 25 seconds (so let us assume that holds here)

Force = Mass x Acc
V²=U²+2aS

V²=4.24 U²=0 S=25 therefore a=0.08mS²

Mass=1 Acc=0.08 therefore Force=0.08Newtons per metre per second OR 0.08Watts.

The real questions you should be asking is this:

1: "How much power am I wasting?"
2: "How much power do I need to supply the locomotives with to keep this speed?"

Given the 482Watts that you are pumping into the track it would seem that the mass you could accelarate would be 6,025Kg. (It might be advisable to check for transmission losses...)

Using the Henry Greenly Formulae the tractional load of your locos should be that plus 19 times that of its effective weight i.e. 20 times its effective weight. Frictional losses are normally 5% thus for every 1Kg of loco effective effort thus equate to: 0.49Watts.

As a startled Dr Livermore stated to a smiling Dr Penny upon seeing the drawings for the "Grapple X" Hydrogen Bomb -"It would seem that the rules of Physics hold true on both sides of the Atlantic".

Can your loco combination be run from batteries, very likely, I would say higher than 95%. Give me some figures and I will tell you (probably) what batteries to use, their chemistry, and their cost in US Dollars...

regards

ralph

[Anonymous]

Call the peoples who makes dem machines, you know.....

Toad

[EMPIRE II LINE]

As Requested:

Now, I have done as you have requested -now go and weigh some carriages and locos please and then we can work out how much power is required to run your combination.


regards

ralph

 

 

Ralph,

It's not my intention to be disrespectful or anything, nor to get a thread locked......

That said......I really don't know or quite follow your line of reasoning here....

TOO....might I ask ??? If my memory serves me right....

Was it not, YOU, who were responding to some requests/questions that I brought up awhile back, here on this Forum, in reference to the MTH, that's Mike's Train House----DCS system, that's Digital Command System ??? 

I don't know nothing about what is available across the pond. And if infact you too do not have, nor really know what is available, here state side, than the advise given might just all be in vein.     Know what I mean....

I'm just trying to keep it simple and non-controversial, and directed to those out there who may have access to the USA trains similar to what I have and am operating.

Thanks Anyway,   Byron F. Custer

[cabbage]

As Requested:



Shows the Meyer with the two batteries that are required to propel it.



Shows one of the four vertically mounted motors that propel it -note the wear patten on the steel worm gear.

Now, I have done as you have requested -now go and weigh some carriages and locos please and then we can work out how much power is required to run your combination.

OH -as to "only being a grease monkey" I campaign a 1956 Morris Minor in Classic Saloon Car Racing, it has a +60 thous 948cc engine with a Shorrock C75B supercharger blowing through dual 40 DHLA Dellortos at 150% overdrive into a GENUINE Speedwell 8 port cross flow head. It has been dynamometer tested at 120 HP (DIN) at 7500 RPM -and I do all my own work.

I am Deaf and Diabetic and have been since the age of 8.

regards

ralph

[calenelson]

good that means I'm not as crazy as I thought I was...

[EMPIRE II LINE]

 

cale

 

btw, have I seen your layout before, not in person, but from some picutres from GN Rocky?  Looks familiar? 

That's a Big Affirmative 10-4, Good Buddy, FL Rocky just lives up the road about 10 miles...

 

Byron

[calenelson]

I think it could be done!  If Marty is pulling 50+ cars with his diesels, why not a dozen+ Heavies with a Steamie?  If you knew the weight of one of his cars, then multiplied it by 50....compare the weight against your possible consist...that'd be a pretty good comparison...

for powering your consist....you could Place your traction batt in the tender and another in the Baggage...Tender is Batt 1, Baggae is batt 2...Use batt 2 to power lights and b/u batt 1...I'd say 18vdc would do it to drive the locomotive...

Again , I think it could be done w/o too much work, but then again I'm the Battery Mafia Propaganda Chief

 

cale

 

btw, have I seen your layout before, not in person, but from some picutres from GN Rocky?  Looks familiar? 

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Well, lets start off with some simple Physics shall we?

You have stated that this particular combination draws 22Volts at 22Amperes, this gives a rating of 484Watts or 0.649Horse power (DIN) for your loco. I have to ask myself

A: How are the motors dissipating this much heat?
B: What are the transmission losses before the power actually reaches the wheels of the loco?

The question you have not asked here, (or provided the information for), is:

"How much power do I actually need to propel this combination?"

R.M Brades B.Ed B.SC M.I.A.A.P. PhD

 

Well Ralph,

Yes, I do believe I have already asked that question....... By the fact that I've asked, IS ANYONE DOING THIS RIGHT NOW, WITH BATTERIES.......

SO THAN I'LL ADD THIS NOW.

TELL ME, HOW YOU ARE DOING IT ???? ALSO, HOW BIG ARE YOUR BATTERIES ? 

I'm not a Professor, Physics major, nor an Engineer. I Don't have a Phd, Sheeps Skin, or noth'in, just bearly a HS diploma.

I'm just a Grease Monkey by trade, an had to drop that back about 95 due to health.

So lets just keep it simple, and just tell me, if you are doing something similar to what I've asked ???  OK.

So far no one has said strait up, yes I am running a consist of Charlie Ro's USA engines and passenger cars, similar to you, all on battery power, and here is how I've been able to accomplish that.........OK, Ralph.....

SEE    LIKE THIS HERE....> 

 

 

 

Byron

     

[cabbage]

Well, lets start off with some simple Physics shall we?

You have stated that this particular combination draws 22Volts at 22Amperes, this gives a rating of 484Watts or 0.649Horse power (DIN) for your loco. I have to ask myself

A: How are the motors dissipating this much heat?
B: What are the transmission losses before the power actually reaches the wheels of the loco?

The question you have not asked here, (or provided the information for), is:

"How much power do I actually need to propel this combination?"

If you weigh the loco and carriages and provide me with them -then possibly we can take this discussion further...

Simple Mathematics will tell you that the power developed by my MEYER is only 56.56 Watts -yet the draw on the batteries is only a shade under 7Amperes -the PWAM TIP is only capable of 8Amperes anyway.

So, going on these figures -I can push 38Kg of load for 56.56Watts, or a power to weight ratio of 0.67Kg per Watt. This is with batteries off the shelf from "Maplins" for £4.99p using motors from "RF Potts" for £1.50p each -using a PWAM built from bits from the bottom of the draw.

Once we have the TRUE figures, then it will be possible to calculate how much power you require -and I think you may be quite horrified at how little is actually required...

regards

R.M Brades B.Ed B.SC M.I.A.A.P. PhD

[Marty Cozad]

repling here is almost not worth it, it takes so long for the items to load up before you can start typing.

 

Anyway, its all about your running habits. If you want to run 18 cars and have the room, then its worth it.

I have an older U tube video that shows the passenger all lite running as the sun sets

search

NTCGRR

 and you can see it.

 I don't have a current one with 3 units and all the cars,,,,yet.

lead car has battery for each end.

 

FYI

As a self emlpoyed person who can't spell,,hehhehe. free time is valuable. I come home from a long day, slap a battery in a charger, eat supper, then come out to relax for an hour or so. trains are always ready, watch for sticks the first time around then sit in the gazebo. maybe hour or so of walking around messing with the RR, I park the train.

Theres no work. it was all done ahead of time.

BTY, if I buy an engine ,I'm not so nuts that I "have to " run it that moment out of the box, they get Kadees, weathering, wiring. (which IS playing with your engine hands on.)

Byron

 I forgot to call you ,sorry

[EMPIRE II LINE]

I have waited until I was able to repeat some qualitative tests....


My Question...
Does/has anyone, in the battery arena, tried to design/come up with a way to "say" run a consist of 18 of Charlie Ro's, USA Trains, streamlined passenger cars, strait from the factory, lit up with batteries???? Behind a set of ABBA F-3's with a 2-K-2 Phoenix installed also, ALL.......BATTERY POWERED????
Please let me know if this is possible, what I mean here "is" are you doing it right now?? My question is, not how would you suggest that it be done, but is anyone out there doing it right now....Powering a consist as I've described with RC and BATTERIES????

Say Ralph,

First, let me provide you a bit more information I had posted on another page somewhere on the forum.

This Consist is run with track power, using a state-side, commercially made, "Bridgewerks" Model TRD-25 power pack/system, rated at an output of 25 amps , 30 volts DC. This unit has digital read-out amp/voltage meters.

I powered this train consist to 20 to 22 volts and the Amp meter showed a draw of 22 to 24 amps. The train was moving at about 60 miles per hour scale speed, what's that about 75-80 KPH ?

 

 

This cannot be answered because it does not rely on Mathematics, Physics, or Chemistry. If you could sit down, work out the power requirements that this would need then -the answer would be self evident... I design multimillion pound computers, the emergency back up supply for which are large Sealed Lead Acid Batteries -which keep it going while the first of the FIVE diesal generators kicks into operation...

I have also designed and built my own RC system for my locos and I abandoned it as it was not required -a simple DPDT switch and PWAM gave me what I needed.

regards

ralph

My REAL Question WAS/IS---- has anyone or is anyone running anything comparable to this train RIGHT NOW, on a regular basis, for good stretches of time----TWO HOURS OR LONGER AT A TIME.  Not did you push a youngster 10 20 30 40 foot or so, for 60 seconds, or build a computer the size of what ever, powered by batteries......

What I am really getting at here is----- I would really consider battery power if it could/is being done, and for how much COST.....

I don't see how it could be done reasonably priced or accomplished with this type of amperage draw for any amount of time.

Byron 

[cabbage]

I have waited until I was able to repeat some qualitative tests....

The most powerful locomotive that I have built is my MEYER which can develop 85Newtons of traction from its dual 12Volt 12.5Ah Lead Acid batteries the motors (four of them) are rated at 14.14 Watts each and are geared at 30:1 with worm and spur gearing.

It has repeated its claim to fame by duplicating the feat of pushing my (now) 38Kg 8 year old son along a length of 32mm gauge track (2 lengths of steel angle) on a length of plank with 8 Roundhouse bogies screwed into it.

viz:

My Question...
Does/has anyone, in the battery arena, tried to design/come up with a way to "say" run a consist of 18 of Charlie Ro's, USA Trains, streamlined passenger cars, strait from the factory, lit up with batteries???? Behind a set of ABBA F-3's with a 2-K-2 Phoenix installed also, ALL.......BATTERY POWERED????
Please let me know if this is possible, what I mean here "is" are you doing it right now?? My question is, not how would you suggest that it be done, but is anyone out there doing it right now....Powering a consist as I've described with RC and BATTERIES????

This cannot be answered because it does not rely on Mathematics, Physics, or Chemistry. If you could sit down, work out the power requirements that this would need then -the answer would be self evident... I design multimillion pound computers, the emergency back up supply for which are large Sealed Lead Acid Batteries -which keep it going while the first of the FIVE diesal generators kicks into operation...

I have also designed and built my own RC system for my locos and I abandoned it as it was not required -a simple DPDT switch and PWAM gave me what I needed.

regards

ralph