There is nothing wrong with FasTrack. Over the past 20 years of doing this, this is why I like FasTrack:
1) The switches are the same height as the track they are suppose to connect to! Finnaly, after 90+ years, Lionel actually got this right. Ever see O gauge track hooked up to 022 or 711 switches on an unlandscaped layout? The track is supposed to be smooth and level! Some morons screw the track down so hard on the first piece after the switch, that the switch rails start to pull out and then you got more problems.
2) The switches themseleves are enough to buy this system. LED laterns and switch bases- no voltage change in the bulb or burned out bulbs. LEDs stay the same brightness no matter if your at 5 volts or 20 volts. Snappy operation, TMCC equipped.
3) Base radius of 36" vs 31". Don't think that extra 5" is easier on the engine and more realistic? Think again.
4) Surface area of all three rails. FasTrack rail tops are FLAT which gives your better coverage than the tiny "crest" of a tubular rail. As soon as I ran FasTrack the flickering in my passenger cars stopped.
5) More oppourunties for more layouts (radii, 60" switches, etc.)
6) Stability. Every press down on O gauge in the middle of the two ties? Flimsy! Easy to twist! FasTrack is RIGID which adds incredible strenght to the entire system. Thats why there is a considerable difference in the way the trains run.
7) Easier to line up- no warping of the track. It has to be a certain way. If you have to fight a track system to get it were you need to go then your doing something wrong.
8) No dicking around with pins any more. No cut hands, insulating pins, change this pin change that pin, take this out, etc.
9) Looks exceptional on a landscaped layout.
10) Better connections.
magicman710 wrote:Any final recommendations?
Any final recommendations?
Recomendation? Why don't you chose, operate and buy what YOU want.
A lot of people on this board are consistently looking for others to make decisions for them and I can not figure that out.
LS1Heli wrote: magicman710 wrote: Any final recommendations? Recomendation? Why don't you chose, operate and buy what YOU want. A lot of people on this board are consistently looking for others to make decisions for them and I can not figure that out.
magicman710 wrote: Any final recommendations?
Personally, I think the people asking the questions are just trying to gather information, based on actual experiences. That is the purpose of the Forum. To relate knowledge, to one another. The final decision has always been in the hands of the person asking the questions.
Chuck
LS1Heli wrote: There is nothing wrong with FasTrack. Over the past 20 years of doing this, this is why I like FasTrack:1) The switches are the same height as the track they are suppose to connect to! Finnaly, after 90+ years, Lionel actually got this right. Ever see O gauge track hooked up to 022 or 711 switches on an unlandscaped layout? The track is supposed to be smooth and level! Some morons screw the track down so hard on the first piece after the switch, that the switch rails start to pull out and then you got more problems.
so because "morons" screw the track down hard it means the track is no good? Maybe it's the guy with the screwdriver?
I'm not seeing where not having a switch bulb burn out is worth the price of a FasTrack switch, myself. Heck, I started using #22 switches that had sat in an attic for 40 years. Bulbs still worked.
Imagine how much easier a 42" tubular curve is than a 36" FasTrack curve.
Never noticed how "tiny" that crest was.
I admit I have no idea what an "oppourunty" is, but I do know that tubular comes in 31, 42, 54 and 72 with switches. That's a lot of layout flexibility is you ask me.
When I press down on a tubular rail between the ties, flimsy isn't the word that comes to mind.
I would spell "it has to be a certain way" l-a-c-k o-f f-l-e-x-i-b-i-l-t-y. FasTrack is completely unforgiving, while tubular has enough "give" to let you cheat if you have to.
Real men pull those pins out with their teeth. How much "dicking around" does the pin really take? I cut my finger slicing a watermelon once. Should I give up watermelon?
Looks like nice track on a plastic base on a landscaped or unlandscaped layout. It does look nice if you ground cover up to the track level as I have seen done, which covers up the "ballast" (chuckle). Personally, I think tubular can be made to look pretty dandy too.
I have no frame of reference regarding that one.
But while we're on the subject, I see there is no mention of the biggest knock on FasTrack which is N-O-I-S-E.
Also, it's lack of compatibility with track side accessories. How many post do we see asking how to cut up FasTrack to get an operating accessory to work with it? The most oft mentioned solution is to use a transition to tubular piece.
Much of my tubular campaign is tongue in cheek, but I personally do like the product better, both as a traditionalist and an operator. I can't get past the noise level and plastic base appearance to ever seriously consider using it.
Frank, do trains run smoothly through #22 switches? The only switches i have now is 027 manuals and my engines(not really cars) always bang into them, but they run smoothly through fastrack switches( I have 2 that i bought, along with some fastrack that came with a set).
"Lionel trains are the standard of the world" - Jousha Lionel Cowen
Frank53 wrote: LS1Heli wrote: There is nothing wrong with FasTrack. Over the past 20 years of doing this, this is why I like FasTrack:1) The switches are the same height as the track they are suppose to connect to! Finnaly, after 90+ years, Lionel actually got this right. Ever see O gauge track hooked up to 022 or 711 switches on an unlandscaped layout? The track is supposed to be smooth and level! Some morons screw the track down so hard on the first piece after the switch, that the switch rails start to pull out and then you got more problems.so because "morons" screw the track down hard it means the track is no good? Maybe it's the guy with the screwdriver? 2) The switches themseleves are enough to buy this system. LED laterns and switch bases- no voltage change in the bulb or burned out bulbs. LEDs stay the same brightness no matter if your at 5 volts or 20 volts. Snappy operation, TMCC equipped.I'm not seeing where not having a switch bulb burn out is worth the price of a FasTrack switch, myself. Heck, I started using #22 switches that had sat in an attic for 40 years. Bulbs still worked.3) Base radius of 36" vs 31". Don't think that extra 5" is easier on the engine and more realistic? Think again.Imagine how much easier a 42" tubular curve is than a 36" FasTrack curve.4) Surface area of all three rails. FasTrack rail tops are FLAT which gives your better coverage than the tiny "crest" of a tubular rail. As soon as I ran FasTrack the flickering in my passenger cars stopped.Never noticed how "tiny" that crest was. 5) More oppourunties for more layouts (radii, 60" switches, etc.)I admit I have no idea what an "oppourunty" is, but I do know that tubular comes in 31, 42, 54 and 72 with switches. That's a lot of layout flexibility is you ask me.6) Stability. Every press down on O gauge in the middle of the two ties? Flimsy! Easy to twist! FasTrack is RIGID which adds incredible strenght to the entire system. Thats why there is a considerable difference in the way the trains run.When I press down on a tubular rail between the ties, flimsy isn't the word that comes to mind.7) Easier to line up- no warping of the track. It has to be a certain way. If you have to fight a track system to get it were you need to go then your doing something wrong.I would spell "it has to be a certain way" l-a-c-k o-f f-l-e-x-i-b-i-l-t-y. FasTrack is completely unforgiving, while tubular has enough "give" to let you cheat if you have to. 8) No dicking around with pins any more. No cut hands, insulating pins, change this pin change that pin, take this out, etc.Real men pull those pins out with their teeth. How much "dicking around" does the pin really take? I cut my finger slicing a watermelon once. Should I give up watermelon?9) Looks exceptional on a landscaped layout.Looks like nice track on a plastic base on a landscaped or unlandscaped layout. It does look nice if you ground cover up to the track level as I have seen done, which covers up the "ballast" (chuckle). Personally, I think tubular can be made to look pretty dandy too. 10) Better connections. I have no frame of reference regarding that one.But while we're on the subject, I see there is no mention of the biggest knock on FasTrack which is N-O-I-S-E.Also, it's lack of compatibility with track side accessories. How many post do we see asking how to cut up FasTrack to get an operating accessory to work with it? The most oft mentioned solution is to use a transition to tubular piece.Much of my tubular campaign is tongue in cheek, but I personally do like the product better, both as a traditionalist and an operator. I can't get past the noise level and plastic base appearance to ever seriously consider using it.
Frank you are da man I am with you 100% and im a new guy. I will never buy the "cheater track" as its called at my train shop here in town. They have a layout of it and its so loud. cant hear the whistle on the tender as clear as tube track. I just cant seem to understand why ppl want to run beautiful post war steamers on fake plastic track....thats my story and im sticking to it.
zeke says" go tubular dude"
Frank53.....Very well spoken.
I like tubular, because I like my PW Operating Milk car, my PW Operating Log Dump car, my PW Operating Coal Dump car, and my PW #497 Coaling Station. They all need tubular track. I've never seen them set up on Fastrack. And 022 switches, if well lubricated and maintained, will run very smoothly and have the " 2 way " nonderailing feature since the 50's. "And they are still ticking."
Chuck - agreed on the switches. Mine work great and they're 60 years old. They have nice positive snap, and they have yet to not switch back on incoming. I admit, some can be "clunky" due to the design as in noisier as F3's make their way through. But as far as performance goes, they're still tip top.
FastTrack has it's place . . .
however, since youngsters may stumble onto this site, I will refrain from naming it.
magicman710 wrote:Zeke what happended last night? How did his kids react? Is he doing better today?
well should prolly keep this train related. My last post got deleted about him. but it did go ok and i did post about it on the pot...
so have you thought about which track your gonna use?
i like the tubular track its smooth, you get the authentic sound of train running over rails, its not very expensive, i like the way it looks much better, sorry even paint you cant hide it being plastic, may look nice but its still plastic. Plus the flexibillity, and my switches run flawlessly.
I also think if you buy used switches you may get someone else headache, (i know i bought 2 of ebay) but new you shouldnt have any problems. Plus how you take care of your track is a big factor i think as well.....just my
As for the lack of realism of tubular track:
looks pretty real to me, that Dennis Brennan's crushed granite ballast, and there is no confusing it with molded plastic.
Frank53 wrote: Chuck - agreed on the switches. Mine work great and they're 60 years old. They have nice positive snap, and they have yet to not switch back on incoming. I admit, some can be "clunky" due to the design as in noisier as F3's make their way through. But as far as performance goes, they're still tip top.FastTrack has it's place . . . however, since youngsters may stumble onto this site, I will refrain from naming it.
Fodder for Friday night chat !!
Thanks, John
Frank your da man!
Well, its hard to decide. Chuck, all of the accessories and cars will operate in fastrack. The operating track section has removable roadbed for things like horse corrals, milk platforms, ect.
But i'm stongly going towards tubular now. You can bury the ties with ballast cant you? I like the look of just rails showing.
Grayson
magicman710 wrote: Well, its hard to decide.
Well, its hard to decide.
After six pages of every pro and con every thought of (and some made up), I would think you have more than enough information myself -- regardless of which way you go.
At this point, might as well flip a coin, as this has long ago gone from pros and cons to good spirited jousting.
"a good plan today is better than a perfect plan tomorrow"
I think I'll go with fastrack, but I have nothing against tubular, so everybody dont get mad at me for making this decision. I will add extra ballast to make a realistic look though.
Thanks for everybody's imput, this has been a long forum, but I think i've made my final decision to go with fastrack. Oh, and If you didnt know, 153c contactors CAN work with fastrack, but the 145c contactor wont, since it has the adjustment nut on the other side of the contactor, it will prop the sectiuon up. I dont know why lionel makes you spend an extra $25 to buy a infrared controller.
magicman710 wrote: I think I'll go with fastrack, but I have nothing against tubular, so everybody dont get mad at me for making this decision. I will add extra ballast to make a realistic look though.Grayson
well nobodys perfect.....
j/k I hope it works well for you. Its whatever works for you.
when i think of the differences of track i think about cars. new vs. old.
heres my thinking.....bare with me...lol
ya take a (random btw) 2007 mustang fully loaded vs say mine a 1964 1/2 convertible loaded..
tubular fast track
1964 1/2----------------------------------2007 mustang
classic newer
just amazing to look at nice to look at but missing the classic look
cheaper expensiveparts cheaper (switches) parts are expensive
people look and amazed at the detail put in ya its nice and pretty
flexibillty of parts has to have exact same part or piece
trustworthy you can replace a bad piece cant fix or cut on
this is how i look at track, maybe its more convienant to drive a new car but, when your behind the wheel of a classic muscle car there is a feeling that can never be replaced with a new style.
just how i look at it
Well, zeke, I'll agree with you that newer is not always better, but here's what I think. Most real railroads today are using cement ties, building and replacing with them. I've never heard of somebody arguing whether concrete or wood is better, but since cement cant rot, its good in one way, but it can crack, which is its own weakness. Wood cant crack, but it can rot. Thats how I think of fastrack and tubular, both have there advantages and disadvantages.
It's not a great analogy, but thats what i thought of.
Zeke, I think you choice of tubular is a great one, and i have nothing against tubular track, I just decided i would go with fastrack.
Hand cranked #97 coal loader ------------------------------------ automatic #97 coal loader
Box couplers----------------------------------------------------- knuckle couplers
No smoke -------------------------------------------------------smoke
magicman710 wrote: Hand cranked #97 coal loader ------------------------------------ automatic #97 coal loaderBox couplers----------------------------------------------------- knuckle couplersNo smoke -------------------------------------------------------smoke Grayson
first i know a guy who works on the railroad repalcing them ties, he sits under this cool loking maching and switches them out. He said he replaces alot of concrete ones because they are handling the wieght well. i think the wood ties are best myself.
i dont know about the coal loader.
i dont understand what you mean by the smoke or really the couplers
cuz i can hit a button and my cars uncouple, i dont have to touch them, and smoke , i dont get were that fits in with track, am i missing soomething?
you must have deep pockets to afford all that track you need. I bout 160 pieces total now all new off ebay for under 100 shipped. That came with swithes, crosses and multiple uncoupling sections, and 20 + lock ons...
im glad you made your choice though, cuz it was yours you werent influenced by anyone to decied your track. I choose mine for 3 reasons mainly...
1. Classic look, nothing beats the original.
2. flexibillity- I am free lancing my layout so i need that.
3. cost. i bought way more track then ill use and for under 100 bucks brand new. about 160 pieces of new track.
but hey im sure the ft will look good, as i look at a layout i notice the track first and then the scenery and trains.
but hey i wasnt putting you down i was just giving you a hard time......
Cracking shouldn't be a problem with concrete ties. They're prestressed, so that the entire tie is always in compression. Any crack that existed would be pulled closed.
Bob Nelson
How do you create power districts in fastrack? Do you use the block sections and hook up from a bus wire and connect it to the fastrack in the block? Do you need a tpc or powermaster?
magicman710 wrote: How do you create power districts in fastrack? Do you use the block sections and hook up from a bus wire and connect it to the fastrack in the block? Do you need a tpc or powermaster?
sorry, I only know how to do that with tubular - the most venerable and time-proven of all track systems.
Frank53 wrote: magicman710 wrote: How do you create power districts in fastrack? Do you use the block sections and hook up from a bus wire and connect it to the fastrack in the block? Do you need a tpc or powermaster?sorry, I only know how to do that with tubular - the most venerable and time-proven of all track systems.
I think your trying to tell me something.............................
Ok, thanks.
Yes Frank, YOU.
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