Compare the advantages and disadvantages of tubular track and fastrack.

[Anonymous]

Hey grayson well i'm glad you made a final decision on track. So when are we gonna see some pics of your progress? Can't wait to see it!

[magicman710]

I believe since I started this post, I should announce MY FINAL DECISION, it is O gauge tubular track.

 

Long live tubular!!!!!!!!!!

Grayson

[Anonymous]

ooooookay well good luck anyways......

 

 

[magicman710]

Well zeke, you'll have to be patient! I probably wont get around to starting the benchwork and bus wiring until august-november. Im building a new house, and will have a upstairs bonus room, 15ft x 20ft. , just for my layout. I will probably be completely done until decmeber or january. But i will post pics, dont worry!

Oh, and you did come across as talking bad about my choice. But, I dont really care.

 

Grayson

[Anonymous]

sorry to burst your fast track bubble but i outsmarted the nosie. I put a foam/rubber material under my sheets of ply wood in between the plywood and two by 4's and i dont hear anything. Some minor noise from when a train runs threw a switch but nothing like what youll experiance.

Hey im not trying to talk bad about your choice, if im coming across that way i am sorry. I was just messing around. I cant wait to see how you doctoer it all up. So when you getting started? I wanna see pics.....im impatiant....

good luck to ya on the track.

[magicman710]

Actually, you have to add insulating board with tubular too. Or it will be just as loud as fastrack.

[Anonymous]

lol you guys crack me up...........

 

i have a question about fast whatever its called....

ok, if you use this track you have to put something under it to silence it up.....its pretty high already wouldnt that make it like rise way above the rest of your layout?

 

just wondering thanks

zeke,

totally tubular          

in california

[Frank53]

I'd start a new thread on this subject: let this one die, otherwise you'll have Frank denigrating FasTrack in every reply he makes. 

it's all in fun dennis, if it's become overwhelming, I'll back out of this discussion.

[magicman710]

Ok, thanks.

 

Yes Frank, YOU.

[magicman710]

What? What is "moi"? Internet slang?

[Frank53]

Moi?

[magicman710]

How do you create power districts in fastrack? Do you use the block sections and hook up from a bus wire and connect it to the fastrack in the block? Do you need a tpc or powermaster?

sorry, I only know how to do that with tubular - the most venerable and time-proven of all track systems.

 

I think your trying to tell me something.............................

[Frank53]

How do you create power districts in fastrack? Do you use the block sections and hook up from a bus wire and connect it to the fastrack in the block? Do you need a tpc or powermaster?

sorry, I only know how to do that with tubular - the most venerable and time-proven of all track systems.

[magicman710]

How do you create power districts in fastrack? Do you use the block sections and hook up from a bus wire and connect it to the fastrack in the block? Do you need a tpc or powermaster?

[lionelsoni]

Cracking shouldn't be a problem with concrete ties.  They're prestressed, so that the entire tie is always in compression.  Any crack that existed would be pulled closed.

[magicman710]

i'm sure that with the cost of track, ballast and wooden ties, tubular 027 may get up to $2 to $3 worth, and O gauge #3 to $4 worth, about the same as fastrack.

[Anonymous]

 

Hand cranked #97 coal loader ------------------------------------ automatic #97 coal loader

Box couplers----------------------------------------------------- knuckle couplers

No smoke -------------------------------------------------------smoke

 

Grayson 

 

first i know a guy who works on the railroad repalcing them ties, he sits under this cool loking maching and switches them out. He said he replaces alot of concrete ones because they are handling the wieght well. i think the wood ties are best myself.

 

i dont know about the coal loader.

 

i dont understand what you mean by the smoke or really the couplers

 

cuz i can hit a button and my cars uncouple, i dont have to touch them, and smoke , i dont get were that fits in with track, am i missing soomething?

 

you must have deep pockets to afford all that track you need. I bout 160 pieces total now all new off ebay for under 100 shipped. That came with swithes, crosses and multiple uncoupling sections, and 20 + lock ons...

 

im glad you made your choice though, cuz it was yours you werent influenced by anyone to decied your track. I choose mine for 3 reasons mainly...

 

1. Classic look, nothing beats the original.

2. flexibillity- I am free lancing my layout so i need that.

3. cost. i bought way more track then ill use and for under 100 bucks brand new. about 160 pieces of new track.

 

but hey im sure the ft will look good,  as i look at a layout i notice the track first and then the scenery and trains.

 

but hey i wasnt putting you down i was just giving you a hard time......

 

 

[magicman710]

Well, zeke, I'll agree with you that newer is not always better, but here's what I think. Most real railroads today are using cement ties, building and replacing with them. I've never heard of somebody arguing whether concrete or wood is better, but since cement cant rot, its good in one way, but it can crack, which is its own weakness. Wood cant crack, but it can rot. Thats how I think of fastrack and tubular, both have there advantages and disadvantages.

It's not a great analogy, but thats what i thought of.

Zeke, I think you choice of tubular is a great one, and i have nothing against tubular track, I just decided i would go with fastrack.

 

Hand cranked #97 coal loader ------------------------------------ automatic #97 coal loader

Box couplers----------------------------------------------------- knuckle couplers

No smoke -------------------------------------------------------smoke

 

Grayson 

[Anonymous]

I think I'll go with fastrack, but I have nothing against tubular, so everybody dont get mad at me for making this decision. I will add extra ballast to make a realistic look though.

Grayson

 

well nobodys perfect..... 

 

j/k I hope it works well for you. Its whatever works for you.

when i think of the differences of track i think about cars. new vs. old.

 

heres my thinking.....bare with me...lol

ya take a (random btw) 2007 mustang fully loaded vs say mine a 1964 1/2 convertible loaded..

 

 

tubular                                                    fast track

1964 1/2----------------------------------2007 mustang

classic                                                    newer

just amazing to look at                               nice to look at but missing the classic look 

cheaper                                                   expensive

parts cheaper             (switches)                   parts are expensive

people look and amazed at the detail put in                     ya its nice and pretty

flexibillty of parts                                                       has to have exact same part or piece

trustworthy  you can replace a bad piece                         cant fix or cut on 

 

this is how i look at track, maybe its more convienant to drive a new car but, when your behind the wheel of a classic muscle car there is a feeling that can never be replaced with a new style.

 

just how i look at it

[magicman710]

I think I'll go with fastrack, but I have nothing against tubular, so everybody dont get mad at me for making this decision. I will add extra ballast to make a realistic look though.

 

Thanks for everybody's imput, this has been a long forum, but I think i've made my final decision to go with fastrack. Oh, and If you didnt know, 153c contactors CAN work with fastrack, but the 145c contactor wont, since it has the adjustment nut on the other side of the contactor, it will prop the sectiuon up. I dont know why lionel makes you spend an extra $25 to buy a infrared controller. 

 

Grayson

[Frank53]

Well, its hard to decide.

After six pages of every pro and con every thought of (and some made up), I would think you have more than enough information myself -- regardless of which way you go.

At this point, might as well flip a coin, as this has long ago gone from pros and cons to good spirited jousting.

"a good plan today is better than a perfect plan tomorrow"

[magicman710]

Well, its hard to decide. Chuck, all of the accessories and cars will operate in fastrack. The operating track section has removable roadbed for things like horse corrals, milk platforms, ect.

 

But i'm stongly going towards tubular now. You can bury the ties with ballast cant you? I like the look of just rails showing.

 

Grayson

[Anonymous]

Frank your da man!

[csxt30]

Chuck - agreed on the switches. Mine work great and they're 60 years old. They have nice positive snap, and they have yet to not switch back on incoming. I admit, some can be "clunky" due to the design as in noisier as F3's make their way through. But as far as performance goes, they're still tip top.

FastTrack has it's place . . .

however, since youngsters may stumble onto this site, I will refrain from naming it.  

Fodder for Friday night chat !!

Thanks, John 

[Frank53]

As for the lack of realism of tubular track:

looks pretty real to me, that Dennis Brennan's crushed granite ballast, and there is no confusing it with molded plastic.

[Anonymous]

SUPER-O

[Anonymous]

Zeke what happended last night? How did his kids react? Is he doing better today?

well should prolly keep this train related. My last post got deleted about him. but it did go ok and i did post about it on the pot...

 

so have you thought about which track your gonna use?

 

i like the tubular track its smooth, you get the authentic sound of train running over rails, its not very expensive, i like the way it looks much better, sorry even paint you cant hide it being plastic, may look nice but its still plastic. Plus the flexibillity, and my switches run flawlessly.

 

I also think if you buy used switches you may get someone else headache, (i know i bought 2 of ebay) but new you shouldnt have any problems. Plus how you take care of your track is a big factor i think as well.....just my

[Frank53]

Chuck - agreed on the switches. Mine work great and they're 60 years old. They have nice positive snap, and they have yet to not switch back on incoming. I admit, some can be "clunky" due to the design as in noisier as F3's make their way through. But as far as performance goes, they're still tip top.

FastTrack has it's place . . .

however, since youngsters may stumble onto this site, I will refrain from naming it.  

[Blueberryhill RR]

Frank53.....Very well spoken.

I like tubular, because I like my PW Operating Milk car, my PW Operating Log Dump car, my PW Operating Coal Dump car, and my PW #497 Coaling Station. They all need tubular track. I've never seen them set up on Fastrack. And 022 switches, if well lubricated and maintained, will run very smoothly and have the " 2 way " nonderailing feature since the 50's. "And they are still ticking."

Chuck

[magicman710]

Zeke what happended last night? How did his kids react? Is he doing better today?

[Anonymous]

There is nothing wrong with FasTrack. Over the past 20 years of doing this, this is why I like FasTrack:

1) The switches are the same height as the track they are suppose to connect to! Finnaly, after 90+ years, Lionel actually got this right. Ever see O gauge track hooked up to 022 or 711 switches on an unlandscaped layout? The track is supposed to be smooth and level! Some morons screw the track down so hard on the first piece after the switch, that the switch rails start to pull out and then you got more problems.

so because "morons" screw the track down hard it means the track is no good? Maybe it's the guy with the screwdriver? 

2) The switches themseleves are enough to buy this system. LED laterns and switch bases- no voltage change in the bulb or burned out bulbs. LEDs stay the same brightness no matter if your at 5 volts or 20 volts. Snappy operation, TMCC equipped.

I'm not seeing where not having a switch bulb burn out is worth the price of a FasTrack switch, myself. Heck, I started using #22 switches that had sat in an attic for 40 years. Bulbs still worked.

3) Base radius of 36" vs 31". Don't think that extra 5" is easier on the engine and more realistic? Think again.

Imagine how much easier a 42" tubular curve is than a 36" FasTrack curve.

4) Surface area of all three rails. FasTrack rail tops are FLAT which gives your better coverage than the tiny "crest" of a tubular rail. As soon as I ran FasTrack the flickering in my passenger cars stopped.

Never noticed how "tiny" that crest was.

5) More oppourunties for more layouts (radii, 60" switches, etc.)

I admit I have no idea what an "oppourunty" is, but I do know that tubular comes in 31, 42, 54 and 72 with switches. That's a lot of layout flexibility is you ask me.

6) Stability. Every press down on O gauge in the middle of the two ties? Flimsy! Easy to twist! FasTrack is RIGID which adds incredible strenght to the entire system. Thats why there is a considerable difference in the way the trains run.

When I press down on a tubular rail between the ties, flimsy isn't the word that comes to mind.

7) Easier to line up- no warping of the track. It has to be a certain way. If you have to fight a track system to get it were you need to go then your doing something wrong.

I would spell "it has to be a certain way" l-a-c-k o-f f-l-e-x-i-b-i-l-t-y. FasTrack is completely unforgiving, while tubular has enough "give" to let you cheat if you have to.  

8) No dicking around with pins any more. No cut hands, insulating pins, change this pin change that pin, take this out, etc.

Real men pull those pins out with their teeth. How much "dicking around" does the pin really take? I cut my finger slicing a watermelon once. Should I give up watermelon?

9) Looks exceptional on a landscaped layout.

Looks like nice track on a plastic base on a landscaped or unlandscaped layout. It does look nice if you ground cover up to the track level as I have seen done, which covers up the "ballast" (chuckle). Personally, I think tubular can be made to look pretty dandy too. 

10) Better connections. 

I have no frame of reference regarding that one.

But while we're on the subject, I see there is no mention of the biggest knock on FasTrack which is N-O-I-S-E.

Also, it's lack of compatibility with track side accessories. How many post do we see asking how to cut up FasTrack to get an operating accessory to work with it? The most oft mentioned solution is to use a transition to tubular piece.

Much of my tubular campaign is tongue in cheek, but I personally do like the product better, both as a traditionalist and an operator. I can't get past the noise level and plastic base appearance to ever seriously consider using it. 

 

Frank you are da man I am with you 100% and im a new guy. I will never buy the "cheater track" as its called at my train shop here in town. They have a layout of it and its so loud. cant hear the whistle on the tender as clear as tube track. I just cant seem to understand why ppl want to run beautiful post war steamers on fake plastic track....thats my story and im sticking to it.

 

zeke says" go tubular dude"

[Frank53]

Smoothly? I guess that depends. I would guess that trains run "more smoothly" through fasttrack switches. I have one tubular switch that I would describe as "not smooth" that I am replacing. Other than that, they do run "smoothly" but I would think they run more smoothly through FasTrack switches just by the design.

[magicman710]

Frank, do trains run smoothly through #22 switches? The only switches i have now is 027 manuals and my engines(not really cars) always bang into them, but they run smoothly through fastrack switches( I have 2 that i bought, along with some fastrack that came with a set).

[Frank53]

There is nothing wrong with FasTrack. Over the past 20 years of doing this, this is why I like FasTrack:

1) The switches are the same height as the track they are suppose to connect to! Finnaly, after 90+ years, Lionel actually got this right. Ever see O gauge track hooked up to 022 or 711 switches on an unlandscaped layout? The track is supposed to be smooth and level! Some morons screw the track down so hard on the first piece after the switch, that the switch rails start to pull out and then you got more problems.

so because "morons" screw the track down hard it means the track is no good? Maybe it's the guy with the screwdriver? 

2) The switches themseleves are enough to buy this system. LED laterns and switch bases- no voltage change in the bulb or burned out bulbs. LEDs stay the same brightness no matter if your at 5 volts or 20 volts. Snappy operation, TMCC equipped.

I'm not seeing where not having a switch bulb burn out is worth the price of a FasTrack switch, myself. Heck, I started using #22 switches that had sat in an attic for 40 years. Bulbs still worked.

3) Base radius of 36" vs 31". Don't think that extra 5" is easier on the engine and more realistic? Think again.

Imagine how much easier a 42" tubular curve is than a 36" FasTrack curve.

4) Surface area of all three rails. FasTrack rail tops are FLAT which gives your better coverage than the tiny "crest" of a tubular rail. As soon as I ran FasTrack the flickering in my passenger cars stopped.

Never noticed how "tiny" that crest was.

5) More oppourunties for more layouts (radii, 60" switches, etc.)

I admit I have no idea what an "oppourunty" is, but I do know that tubular comes in 31, 42, 54 and 72 with switches. That's a lot of layout flexibility is you ask me.

6) Stability. Every press down on O gauge in the middle of the two ties? Flimsy! Easy to twist! FasTrack is RIGID which adds incredible strenght to the entire system. Thats why there is a considerable difference in the way the trains run.

When I press down on a tubular rail between the ties, flimsy isn't the word that comes to mind.

7) Easier to line up- no warping of the track. It has to be a certain way. If you have to fight a track system to get it were you need to go then your doing something wrong.

I would spell "it has to be a certain way" l-a-c-k o-f f-l-e-x-i-b-i-l-t-y. FasTrack is completely unforgiving, while tubular has enough "give" to let you cheat if you have to.  

8) No dicking around with pins any more. No cut hands, insulating pins, change this pin change that pin, take this out, etc.

Real men pull those pins out with their teeth. How much "dicking around" does the pin really take? I cut my finger slicing a watermelon once. Should I give up watermelon?

9) Looks exceptional on a landscaped layout.

Looks like nice track on a plastic base on a landscaped or unlandscaped layout. It does look nice if you ground cover up to the track level as I have seen done, which covers up the "ballast" (chuckle). Personally, I think tubular can be made to look pretty dandy too. 

10) Better connections. 

I have no frame of reference regarding that one.

But while we're on the subject, I see there is no mention of the biggest knock on FasTrack which is N-O-I-S-E.

Also, it's lack of compatibility with track side accessories. How many post do we see asking how to cut up FasTrack to get an operating accessory to work with it? The most oft mentioned solution is to use a transition to tubular piece.

Much of my tubular campaign is tongue in cheek, but I personally do like the product better, both as a traditionalist and an operator. I can't get past the noise level and plastic base appearance to ever seriously consider using it. 

[Blueberryhill RR]

Any final recommendations? 

Recomendation? Why don't you chose, operate and buy what YOU want. 

A lot of people on this board are consistently looking for others to make decisions for them and I can not figure that out.

Personally, I think the people asking the questions are just trying to gather information, based on actual experiences. That is the purpose of the Forum. To relate knowledge, to one another. The final decision has always been in the hands of the person asking the questions.

Chuck

[LS1Heli]

Any final recommendations? 

Recomendation? Why don't you chose, operate and buy what YOU want. 

A lot of people on this board are consistently looking for others to make decisions for them and I can not figure that out.

[Anonymous]

   I wonder if there was this much trouble in 1957 when super-o came out.

[LS1Heli]

There is nothing wrong with FasTrack. Over the past 20 years of doing this, this is why I like FasTrack:

1) The switches are the same height as the track they are suppose to connect to! Finnaly, after 90+ years, Lionel actually got this right. Ever see O gauge track hooked up to 022 or 711 switches on an unlandscaped layout? The track is supposed to be smooth and level! Some morons screw the track down so hard on the first piece after the switch, that the switch rails start to pull out and then you got more problems. 

2) The switches themseleves are enough to buy this system. LED laterns and switch bases- no voltage change in the bulb or burned out bulbs. LEDs stay the same brightness no matter if your at 5 volts or 20 volts. Snappy operation, TMCC equipped.

3) Base radius of 36" vs 31". Don't think that extra 5" is easier on the engine and more realistic? Think again.

4) Surface area of all three rails. FasTrack rail tops are FLAT which gives your better coverage than the tiny "crest" of a tubular rail. As soon as I ran FasTrack the flickering in my passenger cars stopped.

5) More oppourunties for more layouts (radii, 60" switches, etc.)

6) Stability. Every press down on O gauge in the middle of the two ties? Flimsy! Easy to twist! FasTrack is RIGID which adds incredible strenght to the entire system. Thats why there is a considerable difference in the way the trains run.

7) Easier to line up- no warping of the track. It has to be a certain way. If you have to fight a track system to get it were you need to go then your doing something wrong.

8) No dicking around with pins any more. No cut hands, insulating pins, change this pin change that pin, take this out, etc.

9) Looks exceptional on a landscaped layout.

10) Better connections. 

[SchemerBob]

What is so bad with fastrack?! Is it the noise? Is it the plastic? What really makes people lile Frank hate fastrack so bad?

I'm split between making my layout with fastrack or tubular. The reason why i want to to go woth fastrack is the switches, theres a 100% non derailing function 2 ways, one, if the engine goes in one "backwards", and the other is because they run so smoothly through them.

Any final recommendations? 

Grayson

You could use FasTrack switches with O scale tubular track. The only problem here, of course, is that you have to have an "O Gauge Transition" piece after every switch, so the track can go from FasTrack back to tubular. This isn't really a problem, but it may be kind of difficult to do if your layout is going to be very complex.

[fifedog]

Grayson - The deciding factor for me is how big or elaborate the track plan you are using.  If you are talking simple loops and long tangents of track, the ridgid track like Fastrack or Realtrax is fine.  If you are doing a lot of over-under like my current layout, you need that wig-a-bility that tubular track grants.  (i.e. it is really forgiving when things are off a tick).

[magicman710]

The only real bad part to me is the price.

[magicman710]

What is so bad with fastrack?! Is it the noise? Is it the plastic? What really makes people lile Frank hate fastrack so bad?

I'm split between making my layout with fastrack or tubular. The reason why i want to to go woth fastrack is the switches, theres a 100% non derailing function 2 ways, one, if the engine goes in one "backwards", and the other is because they run so smoothly through them.

Any final recommendations? 

Grayson

[Brutus]

Bob - that's good for the ties, but if someone wanted to elevate the track a little like the fasttrack, then they could just cookie-cut out some thin foam sheets I think?  I don't know if this is something I'll do, but was just thinking.  OTOH - I probably will do the popsicle sticks, thanks for the tip! 

[lionelsoni]

Bobby, see my earlier post about O34, O42, O54, and O72, all in O27 profile.  Lots of curvature variety.

Jim, see my earlier post about Popsicle-stick crossties.  Cheap.

[Brutus]

Man, that rubber roadbed looks nice, but at $3 to $4 per section plus the cost of the track, you would be paying the same as Fastrack, right?  Except for the switches, which apparently just hang in the air with the black rubber system?  At this point I'm thinking I will just use my tubular track and make roadbed from thin sheets of foam.  I think I could make some templates pretty easily, maybe a wood base with sheet metal bent around it, and just punch them out of foam.  I'll think on this and if I do it, I'll post a thread.

[thor]

I started out with FasTrack because it came with the set and I liked the look and the way it snaps together and the switches (points/turnouts) work really well and I speak from experience of having had a lot of trouble with these in the past though admittedly with HO not O.

However after a year or two I started buying 027 partly because it was so much cheaper but also because the rail section looks better, I can't understand why they didn't make FasTrack with an I or T section and also because I really needed to get a loop onto a tabletop and FasTrack was just a bit too big.

My FastTrack has also started to break, specifically the grey plastic snap joiners, it doesnt seem to matter much because the pins hold it together anyway but it doesnt bode well for the switch mechanisms as they use the same plastic and have quite skimpy over center levers and pins beneath them which may well fatigue too and render the switch useless. Hasn't happened yet, maybe it won't but the potential is there.

On the other hand, I like the way my LEGO goes with the FasTrack. I cemented pieces of Lego - the flat grey plates - to the underside of my FastTrack so I can solidly attach working mechanisms to the track. Also I removed the center rail and replaced it with copper wire glued to the grey plastic studs that support the rails, it looks really good and unobtrusive. I built one test piece and its held up well so I may end up gradually replacing them all, beats even Super O in appearance!

The tubular rails sound better, they are quieter and yet the joins make the right clicketty clack sound, in fact the rails SOUND like real rails with the right wheel noise too. The lack of ties and ballast doesnt bother me at all and as for the so called 'sharp' edges of the metal rails well frankly I find FasTrack more painful to handle, its almost as bad as oyster shells. I actually try and avoid joining and disassembling it and get my kid to do it for me because I have rheumatism and my fingers just happen to lock up at the precise angle needed to grasp FasTrack's road bed and that really hurts! I can use channel locks on the tubular track...

If I had a permanent layout I would go with the FasTrack. It looks good, it works well, you can run wiring hidden beneath the molded roadbed and for me the LEGO 'connection' is useful as I like to build operating mechanisms from Lego Technic. The fun for me is not trying to duplicate reality so much as having a toy train system. If I ever get the room to make a permanent layout it'll have Lego crane, mines, conveyor belts and such in profusion. So FasTrack is great for that eventuality.

However, the reality is we have to put our trains on the floor and take them up again every day and the kid likes to ring the changes frequently, running new track configurations every hour or so and the rest of the household isnt all that careful about where they step either, so tubular works better because its robust, can take a lot of 'fudging' and you get more in a given space plus which its cheaper and easy to find used.

Last but not least, the plating on FasTrack doesnt seem to be as thick or as high quality as that on the tubular. We've had several sections get mysteriously rusty meaning we've pulled it out of its box and discovered it went rusty since the last session. Condensation? High humidity? I don't know what caused it unless when we cleaned the track we somehow left a thin film of mosture on it, I used alcohol perhaps thats why but it seemed to have corroded very aggressively, it looked like it was left outside for a few weeks.

[SchemerBob]

I don't know whether I have a real preference for FasTrack or O27. O27 is what I had first, what I recieved with my first train set. It worked for me for three years until I got some FasTrack. O27 rails are:

1. shaped like a real train rail
2. they are low-profile (more realistic)
3. brown ties rather than the black on O tubular
4. realistic clickety-clack sound in between the pieces
5. Easy to work with, you can design just about any layout you want

The downside:

1. Unless you're making a layout with wide curves such as O42 and O54, you'll have to stick with locomotives that can only negotiate O27 curves. O31 really seems to be the "universal" track radii in O scale, but as tubular track goes, only Standard O track provides it.
2. Like others have said, you'll probably ballast your track on a permanent layout, which, though I've never done it, requires a little time. You also have to add ties in between the ties on the track pieces if you want it to look a little more realistic.

I got FasTrack with the Polar Express set in 2005, and since then, I've been using it more regularly. IMHO, FasTrack is really the best. The pros:

1. Realistic track mounted on realistic roadbed
2. The track is already ballasted so you don't have to do anything (although you could, as stated in some of the photos above)
3. O gauge track. FasTrack has the same profile as O gauge tubular track, as well as the same radii curves (actually a little bigger, some of them): O36, O48, O60, O72; basically any O scale train made today can operate on it. FasTrack even has an O gauge "transition" piece, so you can switch back to O gauge tubular track.
4. No pins to remove. You can connect the track any way you want, and never have to remove any pins.
5. The track stays together much firmer than tubular track ever will, even when it's on the floor.

There are cons, of course.

1. The biggest one, FasTrack is PRETTY expensive. Straight sections 10" long cost about $4 apiece (actually, FasTrack's insulated track pieces are LESS expensive than regular!). Remote switches cost about $90 apiece. Manual switches cost only $35, but the downside there is that they are only available in O36 radius.
2. No "forcing" track together. Everything in FasTrack has to be exact. You have to know exactly how your layout is going to be made, or you'll run into trouble. Many times, I've tried to assemble a floor layout, and had a gap 1 inch apart that of course I couldn't fill. You can fix this with special track pieces, but you have to make sure you have them on hand. You cannot cut FasTrack pieces.
3. I have noticed that FasTrack can be loud, but I think this is mainly because of where you run the trains, and how fast you are actually running them. I have layout tables with homasote tops, and that deadens the sound a bit, but if you slow down your trains a bit, you'll notice a sound difference as well. Another thing is the equipment you run might just make a louder sound than others. You CAN find a way to fix "loud" FasTrack.

Well, that's my thoughts. I'm using FasTrack on my permanent layout, which is something like 8 feet by 17 or something like that. I like it so far, but tubular track isn't bad either. It just really matters on what you can afford and what you want to run. If you're running postwar, O or O27 tubular is probably the best, because that's what they were made to run on. If you want realism, then go with FasTrack. It's really up to you.

[Jumijo]

Jabaat, I have looked at the photos of your layout and I think it looks great. I like the autumn colored trees on your layout which inspired me to go with the autumn theme when I started my own. I am too using quite a bit of Fastrack and have thought about highlighting the ballast to enhance the molded gravel in the track but have'nt had the guts to just start painting experiments. Please explain your method, did you disasemble your track, did you use an airbrush, what color paint? Vlads Fastrack looks great and has made me want to attempt to improve mine. FasTrack does cost more but for me the built in ballast ,the smoothness of operation and the ease of putting a layout together makes it worth the money.

Rolo,

I did not disassemble my track. I painted it right where it lies. All I did was make a wash out of black craft acrylic paint and brush it on the ballast. The diffence is astounding. My finished ballast is a medium dark gray, but depending on where you live, it could be any color.

Jim 

[Anonymous]

zeke - If you can find a supplier near you , try JOHNSON'S RUBBER ROADBED.  You slide your tubular track into the molded slots, and BAM, you have ballasted track with ties molded in place.  Go for the grey color (out of production for the time being).

 

hey thanks gonna check it out right now!

[dwiemer]

Grayson,

     My favorite dealer is in NJ.  We do have some nice ones in the state, but as you say, they are around Atlanta.  Trainz is in Buford, and Memory Station have been spoken kindly about.  I have purchased from Trainz, but not much.  As to your sub structure on your layout.  I highly recommend getting extruded foam from the hardware store and putting it down over your plywood.  Even if you go with Tubular track, if it is screwed to the plywood, the noise will be on the loud side.  The extruded foam board comes in 4x8 sheets and down here, you can probably only get it in 1/2 or 3/4" widths.  I went with the 3/4" primarily because most of the bases for accessories are 3/4" thick.  You simply mark the footprint of the accessory, cut the section out of the foam and now your accessory looks like it's meant to be there and not just placed on a table.  What you do is get construction adhesive (will say that it works on foam) and just run a bead on the table and lay the foam on top.  The foam can be cut with a knife or a foam heat-cutting tool so that you can vary your landscape and add details.  You can screw the track down to the foam and it will stay, but without the noise transfere to the plywood...just make sure the screw does not go all the way down to the plywood.

Good Luck,

Dennis

[fifedog]

zeke - If you can find a supplier near you , try JOHNSON'S RUBBER ROADBED.  You slide your tubular track into the molded slots, and BAM, you have ballasted track with ties molded in place.  Go for the grey color (out of production for the time being).

[Rolo Tomasee]

Jabaat, I have looked at the photos of your layout and I think it looks great. I like the autumn colored trees on your layout which inspired me to go with the autumn theme when I started my own. I am too using quite a bit of Fastrack and have thought about highlighting the ballast to enhance the molded gravel in the track but have'nt had the guts to just start painting experiments. Please explain your method, did you disasemble your track, did you use an airbrush, what color paint? Vlads Fastrack looks great and has made me want to attempt to improve mine. FasTrack does cost more but for me the built in ballast ,the smoothness of operation and the ease of putting a layout together makes it worth the money.

[Jumijo]

 

Seeing this layout inspired me to try something I've always wanted to. Paint my FasTrack ballast. I experimented on a spare piece and liked it so much, I jumped right in and painted the layour track. It looks much better painted. I wish I had done it sooner. The paint brings out all the molded rock detail in the ballast, and the new color looks very realistic. I'll take photos soon.

My layout is no where as nice as this guy's, but it suits us. 

Jim 

[phillyreading]

I went with ties from Three R Plastics, 100 ties for $15.00 or 250 ties for $30.00 plus shipping of $7.50.  They have; O gauge, 027 and S gauge ties.  www.3rplastics.com

Lee F.

[Anonymous]

    I have always had o27 track and am just now collecting stuff to do a new layout in XX.  I agree with Frank53, LOL . for around the tree I cut 2 54" dia half circles out of 3/4 ply, beveled the edges, added extra ties and painted it. screwed the track to it and viola! fast trac. pop it in half and it stores easily.

[lionelsoni]

Zeke, I use "Popsicle" sticks, which you can buy in bulk at craft stores.  Saw them into 2-inch lengths, dunk them in paint, and arrange them under the rails when dry.  The glue in the ballast will hold them in place.

They are slightly narrower than the O27 ties, but not enough to be obvious; and they give the impression that all the ties are narrower and not quite so far out of scale.

[billbarman]

good idea anyway at the moment i have tubular track on my layout, i havent had too many derailmeant on switched, but when i didnt have a layout i used fastrack, its better for when they layout is on the floor but there were some problems, it seemed like the electricity would build up in one section of track and make everything run slowly, overall tubular is better.

[Brutus]

Cooties!!!

Hey - Not to throw gas on the fire, but if the point of Fastrack is to avoid the added expense of ballasting etc, then this is overkill!  But, seriously, that does look very good!  I think the great thing about FT is that you can put it anywhere and it is solidly connected.  It's great, but too expensive for me right now.  Check out the thread about a FT reverse loop -- this is much more expensive than a similar loop of tubular track - maybe more than 5 times the cost?!  I'm not doing 72 curves, but in 31 I bought enough used but VG track to do 2 of these the other day (except for switches) for like $40 delivered from Trainz.

[Frank53]

not mine - but that fellow is doing a very nice job, even if he is using FasTrack.

[USNRol]

This photo is Fastrack that has been airbrushed and ballast added to the edges. Frank53 is building his Second layout and doing a superb job.

Frank: Is this YOUR work!!?  Looks very similar to what I've seen of yours so far...

[magicman710]

This has really made me rethink making my layout with tubular! The 3 main reasons I wanted to go tubular was: Price, tubular is 1/3 the price if FT. Lionel Postwar, running my postwar trains and accessories, and nostalgia. But that FasTrack looks great! I dont know of anybody that can say it don't look fantastic!

 

Grayson

[USNRol]

This photo is Fastrack that has been airbrushed and ballast added to the edges. This modeler is building his first layout and doing a superb job.

This looks fantastic!  Aside from the center rail this has to be the closest I've seen to true scale realism.  I do shudder at the "Buried" money under all that ballast and airbrush work when you can come very close for 1/2 the cost with tubular like Frank53 has done.  It would be neat to run trains on this layout though which must run very smooth and true with effortless turnout operation etc... due to the Fastrack.  Just hope he's done something to eliminate that hollow sounding echo noise!

I've seen ads in the magazines for an HO scale track system very similar in construction to FT where they show it on carpet all by itself and then transitioning into a totally scenic'd application with ballast/paint over the plastic roadbed/ballast.  I figured someone would do that with FT someday.

Roland 

[Anonymous]

This photo is Fastrack that has been airbrushed and ballast added to the edges. This modeler is building his first layout and doing a superb job.

 

that does look nice, but i think the 027 with tiles in place looks more realistic. their is no spacing between his tiles like youd find with the 027 or real tracks...inmo ...his scenary is real nice though

[Rolo Tomasee]

This photo is Fastrack that has been airbrushed and ballast added to the edges. This modeler is building his first layout and doing a superb job.

[Rolo Tomasee]

[magicman710]

Well I think I'll paint all the plywood green, then add woodland senics ground foam and ready made trees, add the ballast, and might do some mountains. I've changed the plans for my layout around a little, now its going to be 10ft. x 15ft. with a yard on the 15ft. side, having 4 042 switches. The final switch will have a line that will be elevated, go around the entire layout, and reconnect at the switch. But, I am still in the planning stages, so there could be some changes over time, but I'm pretty sure about this plan. And Dennis, arent you tired like i am at lionel always saying "Available at your lionel dealer"? What Lionel dealer? Almost half of lionel dealer are near Atlanta, and I'm NOT going there. More internet shopping for us Georgians.   

Also, to power accesssories, dont you send 2 large wires(a and u) around the layout under the table to tap into to get power for accessories? What kind of wire is best to use?

 

Grayson

[Anonymous]

someone mentioned adding ties to the 027 track...were do you get thes ties and how do you attach them, or does the track just rest on them?

 

thanks

[perry1060]

Tubular track is my favorite. I've never had trouble with the track or the switches...even on grades...

 

[dwiemer]

Grayson, anyone who would give a answer would only be guessing (unless they had it professionally done).  There are many methods to doing scenery and most will include adding "finds" to it.  Some will use natural twigs that they add ground foam to.  You can use either plaster cloth over chicken wire, or extruded foam insulation, or any number of methods for making mountains/changes in elevation.  My method is using extruded foam.  I will paint a earth tone color for the base, then add ground foam to the still wet paint.  For trees, I have a big mix of store bought "Life Like", and evergreens from around Christmas.  I also have some clippings from when I trimmed some hedges.  Many methods and most look good.  Time to experiment.

Dennis

[magicman710]

Does anybody know a price estimate for scenery on a 10x20 ft. layout? It will be 2 feet wide in all places except the yard(wich I will not count). So 40 ft of 2 foot wide board with 2 tracks, anybody know a estimate price of ballast and ground foam, and trees?

Grayson

[Jumijo]

A new study has found that prolonged FasTrack use is the leading cost of E.D.

A tube of Lionel lubricant and I'm back up and running... 

[Anonymous]

In my experience I'd say the switches are the big advantage to FT. They work flawlessly 99% of the time and off of track power to boot. The one flaw I've experienced (and one I have discussed before) is that the coupling shoes on some PW rolling stock tend to hang up on the switches, forcing derailment or coupler failure.

 

[Frank53]

As to what would JLC say about Fastrack . . .

I am not one to make reverent references to JLC. While I am a die hard Post War Lionel fan, I am of the opinion that JLC is no one I would care to do business with. While I enjoy the products of the company the fellow put his name on, I think the company on the whole has a well-documented checkered past at best and not one in which anyone associated with it should take a great deal of pride.

And that is only my opinion . . .

[dwiemer]

A new study has found that prolonged FasTrack use is the leading cost of E.D.

 

Frank, I didn't know that Bob Dole has a Fastrack Layout.

[palallin]

K-Line made O27-profile track in O42, O54, and O72.  Marx made it in O34.  These are completely compatible with Lionel track.

 

They are also a great deal cheaper than the O gauge equivalents.  K-line made 042 switches, as well.

[dwiemer]

Grayson, I have been to Bull Street station a few times.  As you said, no O Gauge beyond track.  I did purchase a few items like scale rulers and modeller's speed square, but that is all.  My wife and I love going to Savannah, so perhaps we can catch up with you at the Roundhouse Museum or something.  As Bob Nelson explained, you can use K-Line or Marx for curves/etc. and you can open up your plan a bit.  One technique is to also mix radius curves.  Have a 042, 034,042 to make a curve, you can change it around and have a nice layout that will handle most engines made.

Frank 53, I am still going to have a O27 layout built under the main layout that will incorporate my post war accessories.  This will mostly be designed by my son, though I will do the work.  I am trying to bring him up in the Lionel Tradition.

As to what would JLC say about Fastrack, if it sells, do it!  While he did do some great innovations, JLC was a businessman who, not only wanted to out sell the competition, he wanted to bury them.  One of his sales pitches was to put top of the line Lionel shown next to bottom line of the competition and do a "comparison".  Fastrack has come into it's own.  I think that those who have it and use it, like it, faults and all.  Tubular has it's fans too.  It also has flaws.  I have had the cut fingers from putting tubular together.  Also had the problems with diagnosing loose pins, shorts from center rail insulation wear.

Dennis

[phillyreading]

Frank53,

I appreciate your scientific report on Fastrac, however you forgot to mention that some pre war steam locomotives won't go thru the Fastrac switches because their wheel flanges are too large.  Another reason for NOT using Fastrac besides costing almost twice as much as new tubular track, also Fastrac is limited to certain lengths of track thereby limiting creativity with a layout.

I refuse to use Fastrac because it limits my budget and creativity!!!    Long live tubular track!!!

By the way I did not know that Fastrac could give you any diseases other than dried up wallet or over limit credit card!!!    Guys mentioned about Cooties and Psoriasis, what about long term exposure to Fastrac??

Lee F.

[Jumijo]

A new study has found that prolonged FasTrack use is the leading cost of E.D.

 

Really?!!! That explains it! 

Your 2343s seem to be the cure!  Insert diving board sound here.

[Frank53]

A new study has found that prolonged FasTrack use is the leading cost of E.D.

 

[danrunner]

Frank53,

You are on to something, but you forgot to mention that fastrack was a joint venture between Nelson Rockerfeller, the Buildebergers, the Trilateralist Commission, the Council on Foreign Relations, The Illuminati, the Knights Templar, The Masons, the Skulls, the Bohemian Grove cult, the director of Area 51, and the CIA.  The true reasons for its existence may NEVER be known 

[lionelsoni]

K-Line made O27-profile track in O42, O54, and O72.  Marx made it in O34.  These are completely compatible with Lionel track.

[Anonymous]

Hmmm...

Fellas we need to set some thing straight here... IF you build your layout properly and do not use 1/4 inch plywood on an open frame work your FasTrack will be no louder than Tubular.  Honestly, the hype on the loudness of FasTrack is quite sickening.  Don't torque your FasTrack roadbed to 150 foot lbs and you will be fine too... Also so many people put cork roadbed under the Tubular track and then balast.  With FasTrack you don't need to balast so the cost IMHO is about the same and with FasTrack you save the balasting time!  In the current issue of the other magazine they have an article on how to reduce the 'FasTrack noise' and it is a cost effective way to do that.

FasTrack has MANY advantages over tubular:
1. NO removing of track pins to make your curves go the other way
2. Your track ends don't flare resulting in poor track connections
3. You can disassemble and reassemble FasTrack thousands of times and it STILL holds strong
4. Lower profile switch lanterns so you don't have to worry about rolling stock derailing - heck you don't even need to use the switch lanterns with FasTrack - try THAT with tubular!

Sorry Frank... I know you love tubular and there isn't anything wrong with that... just drives me nuts when people go over the deep end on FasTrack.  It isn't the best track system, but we weren't permitted to post about others so I can't go into them here!

[Jumijo]

Ok, I've painted ONE train pink - for my daughter. But I've never suffered the heartbreak of psoriasis.

Jim 

[BDT in Minnesota]

Grayson,,,I was over on the Lionel website and checked to see if the 31 inch radius curve sections and switches were offered in the Lionel 027 tubular track line....NO cigar.....Lionel has 31 inch radius  in tubular O gauge,, for allot bigger price!! Lionel 027 track switches can only be gotten in 27 and 42 inch radius.... bummer..Other companies may offer the 31 inch radius, but I understand that your preference is to keep your layout 100% Lionel..That is a wise choice, everything will line up and match, including the control levers...

It looks like you have your bases well covered,,,,BDT

[magicman710]

Actually BDT, I planned all of this out before you made the post about 031 curves. The mainlines will have 042 on the inner main, and 054 on the outer main. Of the five switches that will be in the yard, 3 will be 042 including the the one which spurs of the inner mainline. The other 3 will be 027, which means I can bring larger than 031 min. radius in my yard and around the layout. The main point is that i orginally did plan on having the 042 and 054 track curves and switches. But thank you for pointing it out, BDT

 

 Grayson

 

[magicman710]

Thanks Frank, I think I'll take your advice and do it right. Another question, do you recommend O gauge track or 027? Well, I started this forum about whether to use fastrack or tubular, and know I have officially made up my mind to go with tubular. But, like i said earlier in a post, please keep this forum alive by arguing to each other about track systems!

Nice Layout you have!,

Grayson

[Frank53]

Does anybody have any opinions on using sand or dirt as ballast? Advantages, disadvantages? I just dont want to spend alot of money on model railroad ballest.

Sand or dirt? aye yi yi!

I just put up a couple of posts on another forum on this subject - take them for what they are worth:

Considering your track and track workmanship is probably the most notable and unchangeable part of your layout, I took the route that if I am going to do all this work, I'm going to make it as good as I can. Ater poking around these forums, I opted to used Dennis Brennan's Ballast.

Considering the fact that I took the less conventional route of using tubular track -- (the most venerable and time-proven of all track systems, by the way) -- I wanted a really nice ballasting and ground cover effort around the track to kind of tone down the tubular.

Also considering this is my first layout, short of the green grass paper layouts I made with my Dad in the 50's and 60's, I wanted something better than the sprinkled kitty litter look that typifies first layouts.

Here's the result:

 

 

For me to get what I consider pretty good results the first time out of the box, I would say I made a good choice on the product. I just can't see cutting corners on an aspect of your layout that is going to jump right out at you everytime you run your trains.

To use a really good ballast product, you might spend an extra $100 or so than you would be using cheap materials which yield a half-fast finished product. For the cost of a common post war loco or a few freight cars, you can have trackwork that will be a highlgiht of your layout.

 

[magicman710]

Does anybody have any opinions on using sand or dirt as ballast? Advantages, disadvantages? I just dont want to spend alot of money on model railroad ballest.

Yea, I know.

[magicman710]

I guess your right, I might just change to O gauge track.

[magicman710]

Do you mean O gauge switches?

[BDT in Minnesota]

Grayson,,, I noticed your plan called for 027 switches and 027 radius curves...As long as you are in the planning stages, you may want to do yourself a huge favor and increase the smallest radius to at least 031 radius curves and switches.....allot of locomotives  and passenger cars need a 031 minimum radius for proper operation...

You might want to check your "wish list" as far as future rolling stock purchases go, and make sure that your layout is built to handle them without problems..

Keep us posted on the progress,,,BDT

[magicman710]

---

Well I'll post pictures of my layout, which somebody suggested on another of one of my forums, when I'm ABSOULUTELY through with my layout, which will probably be early next year. I hope people will remember me still by then, well if I post enough I'm sure I'll beome well known. My layout will be, like said, 10 ft. x 20-25ft. with 2 mainlines and a yard. It will be the type where its just and outline of board 3 ft. wide in all places except the yard, wich will be 5 ft. wide. The yard will be on the end of the layout(10ft. long), with 5 yard lines. I'm not sure if this is enough track or to little, but we will see.

How much track I'm getting: 

30- 027 straight sections, 24- 027 radius cured sections, 24- 042 radius curves, 16- 054 radius curves, 32- extra long 027 straight sections, 3- 027 manual switches, 4- 027 remote switches, 5- 042 remote switches, 3- 027 uncoupling track, 4- 027 operating track. Total:$800

Grayson

[magicman710]

Lionel should have redesigned super "O" (since the tooling for it was destroyed in the 80s) before coming out with FasTrack. But still, I want to know why FasTrack is so expensive! With a $4 retail price on a 10in. straight is ridiculous. If lionel really meant it for the starter-intermediate market, it would seem that they would have a lower price than tubular, since most people dont want to spend hundreds of dollars of track, and more hundreds on accessories, engines, ect. The price is just ridiculous.

Grayson - an uncommon name.

[Frank53]

ah Super O - The second most venerable track system ever made . . .

[BDT in Minnesota]

I thought I would also mention the famous Lionel Super O track,,,but I hear the clattering way from here in Minnesota,,, I think that clattering  might be Frank or Chuck loading their shotguns, So I am going to make a run for it...catch ya later....BDT

[Anonymous]

wow...i dont know how big your layout is gonna be or how many pieces youll be needing....

 

but i bought in three seperte auctions 300 pieces of used but excellant condition track...i have a 16x 6 layout in progress..and i only spent 75 shipped for track...including 10 remote switches...i dont mind used..as long as its in good shape...

 

just a thought.....new is great but cheap is better, atleast for me anyways....

[magicman710]

I have just got done figuring that it will const me about $800 in track alone to build my layout with 027. Not that bad to me. And with changing my track to 1 mainline with a yard in fastrack would be $1170.00 But I made a limit for myself not to spend more than $1000 on track. But what I am wondering is what would Lionel Corporation's engineers and what Cowin would have thought if they saw fastrack. Who knows, they might have loved it, or may have hated it. But I dont think they had a problem with 027! 027, here I come!

[Frank53]

Having said that, I used Fastrack for it

Dennis

Benedict Arnold!

[magicman710]

How's it goin Dennis! Good to see somebody from the (in my opinion) the heart of dixie! I live In a suburb about 10 miles south of Savannah. And, to stay on topic, hobby shops are hard to find! There is one in Savannah, called Bull Street Station, and its a HO scale person's dream, with hundreds of ho scale parts, cars, and locomotives, but only lionel TRACK. No accessories, engines, or cars. There was one in statesboro, a hobbytown usa, but it closed a few months ago. I order all my lionel on the internet, and I believe the biggest lionel dealer thats closest to me is some place in Augusta. See yall later!!!

Born in Georgia, and love CSX!

[wrmcclellan]

Good heavens gang - most of you are old enough to know it is "cooties" and yes it is a major risk

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooties

 

[csxt30]

I forgot to mention that long term exposure to FasTrack gives you koodies. 

 

I heard that too !! Then you have to get the Bugaboo out !!

[dwiemer]

Magicman710, I agree in that O27 has a nice profile in comparison to Standard O.  My layout is roughly the same length width as yours.  I do have a section that is 3 levels, but overall, it is a reasonable layout.  Having said that, I used Fastrack for it and am pleased.  It does have some issues regarding noise, but that can be somewhat negated with careful planning.  The tight tolerances also can be negated by careful planning or just sitting down with some pieces and working it out.  For my layout, it cost me around $2500 in track alone.  I am sure I could have done this for about 1/5th the cost using O27. 

I also live in Georgia, where abouts are you?  We have a few of us scattered throughout the state.  Good hobby shops are hard to come by down here.

Dennis

[Anonymous]

you can find good deals on ebay for track...just a thought

[Blueberryhill RR]

I forgot to mention that long term exposure to FasTrack gives you koodies. 

 

[magicman710]

I was going to go "O" gauge track, but I'm going to go with 027 track. One reason, its over a dollar cheaper, and it comes with a uncoupling track section, so i dont have to pay an extra $30 on a operating track section.

[Anonymous]

I forgot to mention that long term exposure to FasTrack gives you koodies. 

 

 

 

well i can say that tubular is way cheap...i just picked up 151 pieces off ebay for 50 shipped....that includes 6 remote switches and 2 bridges ...i think i will always use this track...i may add tiles but i really like the tubular

[Frank53]

I forgot to mention that long term exposure to FasTrack gives you koodies. 

[Rolo Tomasee]

I just recently have gotten into trains and I purchased a new set that came with FasTrack. I have no experience with tubular but I really like the FasTrack. Like Earl said the trains run smoothly and I have yet had a derailment. I have 4 remote switches on my layout and they work flawlessly. I have seen photos on the weekend photo section of Fastrack on a layout that was airbrushed and ballasted on the edges to get rid of the straight edges on the track and it looked spectacular. I have homosote over plywood with green indoor outdoor carpet on my layout and I do not think the sound from the train on the FasTrack is really loud at all. For me I like the looks of the FasTrack and the ease of putting it together along with the reliabilty.

[magicman710]

I think I have made up my mind to go with 027 track, but thanks for the imput Earl, I do have 2 036 remote fastrack switchs and some fastrack that I got in a set a few years back, and my trains runs so smooth through them. But I think I'll go with 027 so I'll have some money left when I get through with my layout.

I think I'll keep this post open so people can argue about fastrack and tubular!

[EIS2]

To me, it is much more enjoyable to run my trains on FasTrack compared to tubular if you have turnouts.  The FasTrack turnouts are far superior to any of the tubular track turnouts.  I have no concerns for derailments or shorts (except for one Lionel 2-8-0 engine) transversing FasTrack turnouts.  I have had lots of derailments and electrical arcing on tubular track turnouts.

I would rather enjoy running my trains and not be concerned with derailments.

Earl

 

[magicman710]

I dont think i will add ties, but just add ballast to cover up the metal ties, wich to me looks better than adding ties and makes the track look like its been there a long time(which I like).

[Anonymous]

i have tubular and i like it...i mean the gargraves looks really cool but i like the 027 best

[pbjwilson]

 

Like, gag me with a spoon.

Oh my God!

Fastrak, groady to the max.

I am sooo TUBULAR!

[rtraincollector]

okay heres another thought this is for a reverse loop 072 in fast track I don't have the cost for tubular but bet its not even 1/2 as much This was in another question here in the forum thanks for the person who posted it sorry didn't catch the name or would post it also to give him the credit for figureing it out.

 

Here is the part list for the O72 Reverse loop but it's not obvious how to do it unless you look at the picture above.

Item list for Fastrack 072 Reverse Loop.rrt

NUMBER DESCRIPTION PRICE TOTAL
(11) FasTrack O72 22.5° curve 12041 4.99 54.89
(4) FasTrack 30 in straight 12042 9.99 39.96
(1) FasTrack O72 remote switch right 12049 69.99 69.99
(3) FasTrack 1.375 inch fitter 0.00 0.00
(1) FasTrack 5 in straight 12024 2.99 2.99
(1) FasTrack 10 in straight 12014 3.49 3.49
(3) FasTrack 1.75 in straight 12026 2.99 8.97
(4) FasTrack 4.5 in straight 12025 2.99 11.96
Total of 28 items costing 192.25

Grand total of 28 items costing 192.25

Have fun!!!! 

[rtraincollector]

If all I had to choose from was fast track and old tubular track it would be the old tubular hands down. I was thinking of going gargraves but with this coloum talking about tubular quieter than fast track it has me wonder should I reconcider tubular myself. I know what I can do with tubular. I'm going to have to make a lot of ties thou but wondering with the extra ties does it interfer with a 143c trip? (I sold boxes and boxes of tubular track like a dummy lol) I still have a few pieces. The main plus I can see is that the switches are cheaper and you can always cut a piece instead of going to your local hobby shop to get another 6 - 10 dollar piece.

[Blueberryhill RR]

I think Frank53 said it all.  There is no finer track in the world, than tubular track. Get some....and let the good times roll !!!

Chuck

[Anonymous]

Not going to suggest any other brand.....and won't mention a brand.....

When I was looking at track, I looked at both Fastrack, tubular and others (can't mention them)   What turned me off of Fastrack was the look with the built in balast.  It wasn't my desire to see balasted track hanging in mid-air when doing any elevated track sections.  I did lean really hard towards tubular...but wanted something a little more realistic.  If I only could choose between the two I would go with tubular with extra ties.

 

Jerry

[magicman710]

I'm not all postwar, it's just I think postwar lionel is better.

[magicman710]

Great scientific analysis! I think i'll stick with 027, it is cheap, plentiful, and with 042 remote switches being just around $30, I'll stay away from the fastrack 036 remote switches that are $50+! Another reason, as Frank wrote, is in my signature. I love postwar, since it was made IN THE USA, and because most of my postwar accessories look better on tube track. But I must ask something about O guage track. By O gauge I mean Lionel "O" gauge track, the kind with tall rails and black steel ties. I read that 027 is a cheap, low quality track that was included in the lowest price sets during the postwar era, and that O is a high quality track included in the high priced sets. But really and truly, 027 is a lot more realistic that O. O gauge has rails as tall as the wheels, which is NOT realistic. Why do so many people use O track if it unrealistic in rail height?

[spankybird]

I have tube track because my layout was built before others were made, except for GG.

If you add the extra ties, it doesn't look all that bad.

and it sure is alot less noise than fastrack.

[Anonymous]

Since your tagline reads "Postwar all the way," I'm not sure why you're even considering FasTrack (which I think is a fine track system).  If you're going ALL postwar, go ALL postwar.

[otftch]

Hey,I knew you guys were knowledgable but all this scientific stuff sure impresses me.I like tubular because it is cheaper.I know that isn't scidentific but there you have it.

                                                                            Ed

[wrmcclellan]

I originally liked both, but my layout uses tubular and I do not plan on changing it.

But with Frank's completely scientific and unbiased analysis....I remain tubular....

[Dave Farquhar]

I really liked Fastrack around my Christmas tree because it holds together well on carpet and keeps carpet junk out of the trains and train junk out of the carpet.

But I use O27-profile tubular on my layout because it looks more traditional and it's much less expensive. I added ties to it. I don't think it makes it look much more realistic but it gives it a more finished appearance while still looking like toy train track.

Fastrack is louder than tubular but I wouldn't call tubular silent. It's quietER, but my wife still finds the noise objectionable if I'm not careful.

You can easily insulate one of the rails on tubular track to control accessories and such. So it's much easier to do a lot of the wiring magic with tubular.

As far as assembly, both systems have a pronounced strength over the other. Fastrack goes together very easily. When tubular goes together really easily, it usually means the track joints are too loose and you won't get very good conductivity. But tubular lets you cheat a lot more. I've drawn up plans on the computer that mathematically should have been a good quarter inch or even more off, and yet in the real world, with tubular, it went together fine. So tubular gives you a lot more margin for error.

And if you have to cut a track section to length, you can cut tubular track in a matter of minutes. It's possible to cut custom lengths of Fastrack, but it's a lot more difficult and it's probably going to end up looking like a hack job.

I don't know of any independent lab analysis that proves either Fastrack or tubular conducts electricity better. The rails are made of the same material so they should have similar properties. If you get one questionable track section with either system, you'll have conductivity issues. I've seen that with both.

Over the short term, Fastrack holds together nicely. I can hang my circle of Fastrack on the wall for 10 months out of the year if I want and it'll hold together just fine until November when I need it again. I am concerned about it over the long term. When I was a kid, plastics got harder and more brittle with time. We have better plastics today, but will my Fastrack assemble and disassemble just fine in 20 years? I don't know. I do know as long as I keep my tubular track away from moisture, it'll hold up just fine. Tubular track was invented by Marklin in the 1890s, so we've had more than 110 years to observe its behavior over time.

Both systems have their uses. The main reason I went with tubular was because some of the locomotives I run restrict me to using Marx switches, which are only compatible with O27 tubular track. But even without that restriction, I would have still gone with tubular because of the cost factor, and because I want a traditional-looking layout.

[Frank53]

First and foremost, the true answer can be found in your sig line, however:

Tubular Track (the most venerable and time proven of all track systems) Advantages:

1. Tubular track was made in the USA, which should be enough;
2. In independent laboratory analysis, tubular track has been proven to have superior conductivity when compared to cheap Asian imported plastic track systems;
3. Tubular track has tradition and character;
4. Tubular track is more visually appealing;
5. The visual appeal of tubular track can be greatly enhanced with ballast for an even more realistic appearance;
6. In constuction, tubular track is more "forgiving", meaning you can cheat it a bit when you are trying to make a track configuration that isn't exactly a perfeact fit;
7. Expense - Tubular track is so much less expensive than fast track, it is practically criminal - using tubular track is practically being given a license to steal
8. Abundence - there is so much tubular track out there you can build a layout from here to Pluto and back and still have some left over for industrail siding;
9. Noise - running on tubular track is nearly silent, particularly when compared to the echo chamber which is fasttrack;
10. Choices of radii - tubular track has a broader range of size choices, and is considerably easier to modify to your needs;
11. Tubular track is what O-Gauge trains were made to be run on, not plastic;
12. Health and safety - The FDA has confimed users of tubular track are less likely to suffer from the heartbreak of psoriasis when compared to fasttrack users;
13. Real men (such as Chuck and myself, for example) use tubular track and extract the pins with their teeth;

Tubular Track disadvantages:

1. None

Fasttrack Disadvantages:

1. fasttrack is made in Asian sweatshops where children are sold into slavery and workers must subsist on a single grain of rice per day;
2. In independent laboratory analysis, fasttrack has been proven to have inferior conductivity when compared to tubular track (the most venerable and time proven of all track systems);
3. fasttrack casuses global warming;
4. Fasttrack looks cheap and chintzy;
5. Fasttrack is un ballastedable, as teh design has a poor excuse for real railroad ballast molded into teh base;
6. In constuction, fasttrack is "unforgiving", requiring an absolutely perfect fit or no go. Model railroaders the world over have lost fingers and entire limbs trying to modify fasttrack to their layout ideas;
7. Expense - Fasttrack is so expensive you will have to sell your house, cars and kids to pay for a layout of any magnitude - $4.00 for a straight section??? Hah!
8. lack of availability - Fasttrack is in such short supply that you have to wait years to get it and pay through the nose for it
9. Noise - Fasttrack is louder than two cats doing the horizontal mombo under my back porch;
10. Choices of radii - Fastrack is limited to almost zero choices;
11. Fasttrack is teh anti-Christ of model railroading;
12. Health and safety - Users of fasttrack are more prone to suffer from the heartbreak of psoriasis. In addition, they get gas a lot;
13. Real men (such as Chuck and myself, for example) wouldn't touch a section of fasttrack without immediately heading for a decontamination station; Girly men - such as Apitz, for example, embrace fasttrack and paint their trains pink;

FastTrack Advantages:

1. None

So there you have it, an unbiased, scientifically documented comparison of the two systems.

 

[Anonymous]

Here ya go...

http://www.purkeystoytrains.com/trackguide.html

This is the site for a LHS.  They compare all the different track systems, I know you only asked for Lionel track, but this is a good overall comparison.

[Anonymous]

I would suggest tubular track.  It is cheaper, and I think that postwar trains just don't look right on anything else (no offense intended towards anyone, just my opinion).