Good idea! I'll pitch that one later and see how it flies!
RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.
Rather nice for TEMPORARY! Maybe you could just move the TV and the Couch to the basement, then wouldn't have so much work.
Don
rogruth wrote: I like the last one.You got in every thing needed to not be frustrated and in SIX by SIX feet.Bargain with "She who must be obeyed" for the space.Have fun.
I like the last one.You got in every thing needed to not be frustrated and in SIX by SIX feet.
Bargain with "She who must be obeyed" for the space.Have fun.
SWMBO won't let me move the China Hutch. It's not like we ever use that stuff, either - it's just a show piece. Oh well, I'm getting a couple hundred bucks worth of switches, track and wood out of the deal so I can't complain toooo much
HA! Good one!
Well, I'm trying to stick to one side of the room as much as possible to prevent people from having to go around through the living/family room to take food and water to Chewy's bowl etc. This is going to be a table that I can keep together after it's time for a more permanent layout in the basement, with wings added on to fit the space now. I hope to actually have the basement done this year still - at least walls up and maybe get some flooring done, so probably within a year from now I'll be able to move to the basement. I'm taking advantage of my wife's desire for me to move my current layout out of the way to pay for this one! When I finally do the basement, I'll try and have some wider turns as well, but this is just a temporary one.
Jim, What is the largest size you can run 31, 42, 54? You might want to try and look ahead at that possibility, is there a favorite engine on your wish list, and will it fit? Or, accept the fact that OK this will accomodate 42, if I ever go bigger I WILL have to redo the layout.
Just a thought.
The double reversing capability is a must!!!
Oh yeah have you noticed the number of viewers on this thread?
Good job!!!!
This should fit nicely and I'll put wheels on it so I can pull it out and scenic the back side.
Jim Fortner wrote:
Hey Jim, this one looks great, what's more is that now you can access the whole track without touching the train, plus it gives you plenty of switching options. My vote is for this one.
alot of good info brianel...i am just starting a 027 layout, go tubular, and am finding some issues with design of the track..
jim i like a few of your plans i may steal an idea...if thats ok....
Jim,
The layout looks great! Lots of running options in a small space.
Chris
Jim, what's neat about this hobby is the creativity factor and how we all take similar components everyone uses and use them differently.
I think you'll select the plan and idea that suits you most. But as someone who has become something of an expert at small layouts, here's some general observations:
-Unless all sides (or at least 3) are accessible I tend to go with a narrower layout. It's a drag to not be able to reach on to the layout to fix, repair, clean or just have access.
-Keep your operating accessories up front or within easy access. Non-operating structures could go towards the back or less accessible areas.
-As a cost savings, utilize manual switches for yards or up front within easy reach. The Lionel postwar 1024 manual switch has a slightly smaller base, which may allow for some more scenery options. I use switches of many vintages, but chop the base down in size to literally just the track alone. On small layouts, this opens so many other options. Manual swtiches can also be made to operate from the front of a layout using nylon fish line or bicycle brake cables. Making your own track end bumpers out of scraps of pine can also make for a few more inches of space on a siding. I've installed a flashing red light into mine like the Lionel or K-Line one, so I get the effect of another flashing light on the layout without taking up the space of the Lionel bumper on the track.
-Put monuntains, bridges towards the back or inner less accessible parts of the layout, but make sure you can always have access. Putting a tunnel toward the back with the backside of the mountain "open" will allow you access for cleaning track and unplanned derailments.
-Unless you are using TMCC, having insulated blocks will make operation more fun and vaired. An easy solution to cut down on under-the-table wiring is to make some kind of railside power box (like the style used for the Lionel/MTH infared controllers) and have a small slide switch on the top of this. You'd place this right at the point of the insultated block, and then run the wires from each section of track to this box elimating longer wires leads running to a control panel.
-Try to find the newer style K-Line 027 switches if you are using 027 track. They are greatly improved with a small switch box housing - even though they do still have the large footprint.
-Utlilize the edges of the layout. For example, I have uncoupling tracks on track running along side the edge of the layout. I've used Rubbermaid Kitchen Divider Trays spray painted black as dump trays on the edge of the layout board. I can dump loads into these without taking space for a dump tray on the main layout.
-Ulilize smaller buildings to have more space. For example Lionel has their operating smoking diner, but K-Line also has a plastic kit diner which is much smaller - but easily improved. I completly re-did mine my custom window treatments and an added smoke unit inside. The K-Line Police Station is a somewhat small building even for 027. But I added a base to mine to raise it up (like a concrete foundation), added a loading dock, and painted mine to be a small factory. I took my MTH opertating loading platform and cut off part of the roof and base on each side to make it smaller so it fit into the space where I wanted it. There was some wasted space on this accessory with nothing on those parts anyways. The Plasticville Fire Station can easily be modifed into a small industrial building.
-If you have kids, or just want to entertain company, it's a nice idea to have a few buttons for operating accessories not on the main control panel (where you are likely standing) but on the edge of the layout board at other locations where vistors may be standing. This way they do can operate something.
-Many accessories have large bases that take up extra space. I made new bases for my K-Line Bubbling Water Tower and Operating Beacon Tower out of basswood that insert into the layout surface. I took my K-Line operating Junction Tower and modified the lower section stairway so it leads into the structure instead of away from it - which made it easier to place on my layout.
Also on my layout I have only one cut-across reverse loop. To change the direction of the train back, I just run the train backwards through the loop. But to each his own: some like straight out running and some like to do yard switching. I like to to both and tried to make my layout accomdate both.
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
Nice JIM.
laz57
Jim Fortner wrote:Okay, If I move a little furniture, I think this will fit in the space I have. What do you guys think? I wish I had more room for sidings, but can't figure it out without losing most area for accessories and scenery....
Okay, If I move a little furniture, I think this will fit in the space I have. What do you guys think? I wish I had more room for sidings, but can't figure it out without losing most area for accessories and scenery....
Looks good. If you take out the siding with the saw mill, you could add two sidings off the inner oval from the top of the oval and the bottom (intersecting where the saw mill used to me). In other words, the sawmill siding goes right to left. You could remove that and add a siding that goes top to bottom and bottom to top using either two left hand switches, or two right hand switches.
Jim Fortner wrote:Gotcha - what I'm running into is trying to have basically two layouts in one. My original idea was just to have two separate layouts, one for a switcher and stuff and then one outer loop layout. ...Basically, I'm going to take all this advice and alternate ideas and see what I can come up with. Thanks man!
Yeah, I can see the two seperate lines working, for me its not the ideal because in my mind I like to have access to all of the track in a fluid manner, but with what you are planning to run, it may work out better while still leaving space for something other than track.
To be honest I probably wouldn't have caught the dilemma that I pointed out had I not been working on my son's $15 plastic Thomas Train set from Wal-Mart, which suffers from the same problem in that by track design once the train starts in one direction and turns around it can never reach a certain portion of the track again, which is kind of irritating to my 5 year old. Frankly, I believe it was engineered this way to get me to purchase more track, but that's another issue. As for your track I doubt you really want a layout where you have to literally pick up your train to turn it around in order to reach the middle space that would otherwise go unused, IMO that would get annoying really fast.
I like what you're doing here, but unless I'm missing something then you'll have to start the train in counter clockwise motion in order access the inner loops, the only problem is that once you're finally turned around and back on the outter main, you're now going the wrong direction and now the inner loops are inaccessible. Personally, I'd want to be able to access the inner portion from either direction on the main. And honestly, I'm not seeing this ability on any of the plans that you've laid out so far, but that's just my 2 cents.
Here's one with a wye and reversing loop:
Can't wait to see what you finally come up with!
Jim Fortner wrote:Does anyone make a O27 wye? I know how to make one using 3 switches, but it seems like it would take up too much realestate. I'll mess around with the idea, though, thanks!
I don't know of any pre-made O-27 wyes (wise?).
Here are a couple layouts I did using a wye. I couldn't find the second operating accessory you have when looking through the list of accessories on RR-Track.
You came up with some great layouts!
Neat plans. I think I prefer # 3.
Mitch
Bob Mitchell Gettysburg, PA TCA # 98-47956 LCCA# RM22839
IMHO I would not go for the double reversing loop for the size of layout that you are considering. I think that one reversing loop can work but it involves working it, which is what real railroads did. The double loop eats up so much space you have no room for structures and scenic opportunities. The wye option in the real world worked because railroads could by enough real estate to put whole trains on it if they wanted. In your situation, it would eat up valuable space. A fella who had a pretty good size layout once told me that he ended up reducing his track plan on the same table by 1/2 because it looked like spaghetti and he was happier with a simpler plan that provided opportunites for structures. But there is no right or wrong answer here, just opinion. Whatever you do I hope it will work out for you. I would like to see photos.
Thanks guys! We're negotiating - apparently 6x6 requires new furniture in the living room???
Birds wrote: Jim,The plans all look very nice with quite a bit of running options for the space! One thought came to me. In plans 2, 3, 4, instead of using a reversing loop with a siding off of it, what about using a wye that ends in a siding?Chris
The plans all look very nice with quite a bit of running options for the space!
One thought came to me.
In plans 2, 3, 4, instead of using a reversing loop with a siding off of it, what about using a wye that ends in a siding?
Does anyone make a O27 wye? I know how to make one using 3 switches, but it seems like it would take up too much realestate. I'll mess around with the idea, though, thanks!
Blueberryhill RR wrote: csxt30 wrote: I like it too !! Thanks, John Very good, Jim. Lots of play value.
csxt30 wrote: I like it too !! Thanks, John
I like it too !!
Thanks, John
Very good, Jim. Lots of play value.
And don't go less than 6 X 6.
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