There is one other thing to be considered when using Fastrac the diameter of the curve sections, Fastrac has 36 inch curves verses 31 inch curves for regular O gauge track, 027 has 27 inch curves, GarGraves starts at 32.25 inches and goes up. Another thing is that Fastrac does not cut easy for electrical re-assembly to another piece of Fastrac, in plain english you can't custom fit Fastrac as well as other track systems.
I am happy with regular O gauge track and plastic tie inserts from 3R Plastics.
Lee F.
If/when I ever build my intended layout I'll be using tubular - mostly Marx O27 & O34 - track/switches mainly to match what will be running on the track (Marx, Pre/Post-War Lionel O27, some smaller K-Line - from Marx molds, and RMT of course - one of these days - hopefully). FastTrack, RealTrax or any of the moulded plastic stuff would look odd to my eye and more "realistic" track (like Gargraves) would also spoil the effect.
In my opinion, FastTrack is great for a starter-set/floor layout/around the Christmas tree etc. - and especially great for kids - but it is either too new-ish looking for a tinplater/toy train guy like myself, and too plastic looking for a High-Railer - unless of course it's weathered etc. - and at that point wouldn't Gargraves/Ross look better anyway?
I wrote to Walter Mattatuch about the lack of short freight and he said wait till 2007 and see. So I live in hope, I figure the least I can do is buy a couple of his locos, especially given the mostly good reports on them.
Failing that I'll build my own. I went looking in the used places for old Lionel gondolas and flat cars to cut and section but even the most battered looking stuff missing wheels, is priced silly! I won't name names but here in NY, there's a guy who is either an optimist or an idiot, he sells boxes of broken stuff for prices in excess of what you can pick them up for new. Really broken up, not just dirt and scratched. I figure ten bucks tops, he want $150!
My fault for not knowing prices but I got a burnt out 027 uncoupler/accessory track plus switch for $10 took me three hours to rebuild, rewire and then I find that I could have bought it new for a couple bucks more, caveat emptor.
I could easily whip up a few English style open wagon bodies, its the wheelsets that are the problem, those plus the axleboxes. I'm going to see if I can make a modelling clay mold and pour epoxy to make my own, Lionels Troublesome Trucks are way over priced for what they are IMHO.
thor wrote: I wish RMT(?) the Beep guys would do the same with rolling stock. I know I'm not the only one into TOY trains.
I wish RMT(?) the Beep guys would do the same with rolling stock.
I know I'm not the only one into TOY trains.
-Dave
Well, if your interest is FasTrack why not take a look at the NEW FasTrack Yahoo Group:
Lionel_FasTrack_System Yahoo Group( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Lionel_FasTrack_System/ )
Very best, MikeLionel_SuperO_Track Yahoo Group( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Lionel_SuperO_Track/ )"Super O" + Marx Guides Which are GREAT!!( http://search.reviews.ebay.com/members/lionelsuperotrack_W0QQuqtZg )
Bob Nelson
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
2 wheeled front trucks are very likely to derail since they rely on their weight to stay on the tracks. A simple trick to make them heavier is winding solder wire around the axles of the wheels on the front truck.
I don't have experience with tubular switches from any american manufacturer, since my switches are Märklin. I found out that the most derailments are due to wrongly adjusted counter rails (the ones at the place of the frog, but on the other side of the track, they guide the flanges of the wheels from the back in order to make the wheel on the other side of the axle follow the frog's line) or too tight wheel space on the axles. Also specially with my MTH 2-8-0 I also needed to widen the distance between the wheels on the front truck.
(edit; as lionelsony said, 2 wheeled fronttrucks indeed have springs; I meant the 2 axle fronttrucks, which are 4 wheeled ones.)
Thor,
IMHO, there's really nothing wrong with tubular. My whole layout is O tubular with 031 radius. I think if you're more a toy train operator it's the natural choice, either 027 or O. An aquaintance of mine was over recently and he formerly had a layout usiing Gargraves. He remarked how nice it was to see Lionel postwar and modern going over traditional track.
It's whatever floats your boat. There's definitely something to be said for tubular. It's been around a 100 years and I think it will last another 100.
Add some extra ties, ballast it and it will look great. Save you a bunch too.
Mike S.
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Jim,
I have the 736 and it goes through the switches fine.
Earl
gee I'll have to give this some thought - tubular or fasttrack
hmmmmmm
I really like the FasTrack mainly because the FasTrack switches are so much better then any of the switches that I have used on any of the tubular track systems. I have used Lionel 027, 0, and K-Line switches. I had many derailments and shorts transversing the old switches and so I tended to avoid running through the switches when possible. All engines except one go through my FasTrack switches without any problems.
I had an MTH 2-8-0 consolidation that derailed everytime going through the 036 FasTrack switches. I spread the wheels on the front truck and the derailments have been reduced to zero.
I have a Lionel 2-8-0 (6-38037) that shorts going through the curved portion of 036 FasTrack switches. It is a design issue due to the very long wheelbase of the drivers. That engine is relegated to just going through the straight sections of the switches.
All of my remainging engines prewar,postwar, and modern have no problems going through the FasTrack switches at any speed either forward or reverse. Toy train enjoyment is increased greatly with a good track system and FasTrack has met that criteria for me.
Regards...
I love FastTrack, I got started with a trainset and thus an oval of the stuff and I bought a couple of switches but the price difference is a serious concern as is the operating accessories compatability.
That CTT article about the different tracks was an eye opener, as it is I already have more tubular than FastTrack because I got tons of it used for about ten bucks! So I reckon my next purchase of new track will be tubular though I still maintain that FastTrack is better, its just not THAT much better.
In my shoes I have to make a few tough decisions about practicality versus price and I came to the decision that really toy trains were a better bang for my buck even though I'd love to own at least one monster, if I ever do, it can sit in a display case on rollers and do its party tricks once in a while but for everyday wear and tear and just having fun, the low end stuff is really the better buy. I dont need sounds, I can live without smoke if need be, what I do need are trains that I can leave on the floor in a household full of careless adults, evil cats and exuberant children without having gray hairs worrying about what might happen if I'm not there.
I've been weighing the pros and cons for almost a year - well, all summer long felt like a year - and now its train time again (Am I the only one that prays for rain as the necessary excuse to cover the floor in track?) and my little girl is really putting the pressure on to get the trains out!
My next big purchase has to be a proper controller and the money I save by not buying FastTrack can go towards a decent lump, that plus a few bags of pins, some wire and a few more switches and both she and I can have fun on the floor again. We've got three locos all we need is some short wheelbase wagons and I can still get some shunting done even if the sidings are only a couple of feet long. I wish RMT(?) the Beep guys would do the same with rolling stock.
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