FastTrack is great but tubular maybe better

[thor]

I love FastTrack, I got started with a trainset and thus an oval of the stuff and I bought a couple of switches but the price difference is a serious concern as is the operating accessories compatability.

That CTT article about the different tracks was an eye opener, as it is I already have more tubular than FastTrack because I got  tons of it used for about ten bucks!  So I reckon my next purchase of new track will be tubular though I still maintain that FastTrack is better, its just not THAT much better.

In my shoes I have to make a few tough decisions about practicality versus price and I came to the decision that really toy trains were a better bang for my buck even though I'd love to own at least one monster, if I ever do, it can sit in a display case on rollers and do its party tricks once in a while but for everyday wear and tear and just having fun, the low end stuff is really the better buy. I dont need sounds, I can live without smoke if need be, what I do need are trains that I can leave on the floor in a household full of careless adults, evil cats and exuberant children without having gray hairs worrying about what might happen if I'm not there.

I've been weighing the pros and cons for almost a year - well, all summer long felt like a year - and now its train time again (Am I the only one that prays for rain as the necessary excuse to cover the floor in track?) and my little girl is really putting the pressure on to get the trains out!

My next big purchase has to be a proper controller and the money I save by not buying FastTrack can go towards a decent lump, that plus a few bags of pins, some wire and a few more switches and both she and I can have fun on the floor again.  We've got three locos all we need is some short wheelbase wagons and I can still get some shunting done even if the sidings are only a couple of feet long. I wish RMT(?) the Beep guys would do the same with rolling stock. 

I know I'm not the only one into TOY trains.   

[Jumijo]

I share your opinion, Thor. O27 does offer more fun for the money. All of our trains are O27 and we enjoy them no end. I don't even have any desire to purchase one of the expensive scale locos. Maybe they look too real for my liking? I know they cost too much for my liking.

The track you pick is up to you. Tubular or FasTrack doesn't matter as long as you are satisfied with it. Our layout is all FasTrack, and I do concede that it's more expensive than traditional tubular track. But seeing the O27 stuff running on traditional tubular is a timeless spectacle and one compliments the other.

Jim

[EIS2]

I really like the FasTrack mainly because the FasTrack switches are so much better then any of the switches that I have used on any of the tubular track systems.  I have used Lionel 027, 0, and K-Line switches.  I had many derailments and shorts transversing the old switches and so I tended to avoid running through the switches when possible.  All engines except one go through my FasTrack switches without any problems.

I had an MTH 2-8-0 consolidation that derailed everytime going through the 036 FasTrack switches.  I spread the wheels on the front truck and the derailments have been reduced to zero.

I have a Lionel 2-8-0 (6-38037) that shorts going through the curved portion of 036 FasTrack switches.  It is a design issue due to the very long wheelbase of the drivers.  That engine is relegated to just going through the straight sections of the switches.

All of my remainging engines prewar,postwar, and modern have no problems going through the FasTrack switches at any speed either forward or reverse.  Toy train enjoyment is increased greatly with a good track system and FasTrack has met that criteria for me.

 

Regards...

Earl

[Jumijo]

Earl,

if you have a post war 726 or 736, how does that fare on those 036 FasTrack switches?

Jim

[Frank53]

gee I'll have to give this some thought - tubular or fasttrack

hmmmmmm

[EIS2]

Jim,

I have the 736 and it goes through the switches fine.

Earl

[Jumijo]

Thanks, Earl. I have noticed that locomotives with 2-wheeled front trucks seem to have problems with switches. I was hoping that wasn't the case with the post war Berkshires.

Jim

[msacco]

Thor,

IMHO, there's really nothing wrong with tubular. My whole layout is O tubular with 031 radius. I think if you're more a toy train operator it's the natural choice, either 027 or O. An aquaintance of mine was over recently and he formerly had a layout usiing Gargraves. He remarked how nice it was to see Lionel postwar and modern going over traditional track.

    It's whatever floats your boat. There's definitely something to be said for tubular. It's been around a 100 years and I think it will last another 100.

    Add some extra ties, ballast it and it will look great. Save you a bunch too.

 

Mike S.

[Anonymous]

Jim,
I thought I had read that the 2 wheel pilots sometimes lack the necessary weight to keep them tracking properly through complex trackwork. I have been meaning to add some weight to the front wheels of my Lionel 2-8-0 but haven't done it yet.
Mike

you can view my layout at
http://home.comcast.net/~graz6/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

[lionelsoni]

Check first to see whether it is a steering problem.  The pivot point is usually too far forward, causing the truck to oversteer and pick the frog.  It will usually derail to the inside of the curve.  The steering error is easy to see; and it is not difficult to extend the tongue and create a new pivot farther back.

[daan]

2 wheeled front trucks are very likely to derail since they rely on their weight to stay on the tracks. A simple trick to make them heavier is winding solder wire around the axles of the wheels on the front truck.

I don't have experience with tubular switches from any american manufacturer, since my switches are Märklin. I found out that the most derailments are due to wrongly adjusted counter rails (the ones at the place of the frog, but on the other side of the track, they guide the flanges of the wheels from the back in order to make the wheel on the other side of the axle follow the frog's line) or too tight wheel space on the axles. Also specially with my MTH 2-8-0 I also needed to widen the distance between the wheels on the front truck.

(edit; as lionelsony said, 2 wheeled fronttrucks indeed have springs; I meant the 2 axle fronttrucks, which are 4 wheeled ones.)

[RR Redneck]

I love tubular track. The only reason that I have FasTrack, is becuase I use it for temporary floor layouts. My next layout will have the traditional tubular track.

[lionelsoni]

A Lionel 2-wheel front truck does not rely on weight to stay on the track.  It generally has a spring, like the 671-151 on the 2026, to press the truck down.  The 2026 is a good example, but not the only one, of the faulty oversteering Lionel truck design.

[lionelsuperotrack]

Well, if your interest is FasTrack why not take a look at the NEW FasTrack Yahoo Group:

Lionel_FasTrack_System Yahoo Group
( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Lionel_FasTrack_System/ )

Very best, Mike

Lionel_SuperO_Track Yahoo Group
( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Lionel_SuperO_Track/ )

"Super O" + Marx Guides Which are GREAT!!
( http://search.reviews.ebay.com/members/lionelsuperotrack_W0QQuqtZg )


 

[Dave45681]

 I wish RMT(?) the Beep guys would do the same with rolling stock. 

I know I'm not the only one into TOY trains.   

I didn't see anyone else mention this, but I think RMT is now making (not sure if available or in the pipe) a set of 3 passenger cars (baggage/coach/observation) that will sell for about $80.  I don't think they have freight though for your switching desires.

[Anonymous]

I have, and have used at various times, Lionel's traditional tubular track (both O and O27), Lionel FasTrack, MTH RealTrax and ScaleTrax, Gargraves, and Atlas, and my personal preferences from among those choices are FasTrack and Atlas--Fastrack for a toy train type of layout, and Atlas for a Hi-Rail pike.

I'm currently using Atlas track on my small O gauge layout in the living room because they offer it in O27 curves (which are a "must" for my situation).  I operate only small locomotives and rolling stock, not because I don't like the bigger stuff, but because I like the small stuff even better.  RMT BEEPs and BUDDYs, along with the soon-to-come RMT BEEFs, as well as K-Line Plymouths and Porters, Lionel Docksides, and similarly small motive power is what I enjoy most, especially when I'm stuck with a relatively small layout.

I have no complaints whatsoever about the Atlas track system.  Add some roadbed and ballast and, in my opinion, it's about as good as you can get in three-rail O gauge and worthy of any layout.  I also have no complaints about FasTrack, which has a joining/locking system superior to anything else available in O gauge. Although the FasTrack rails are tubular, they have a lower profile than traditional tubular track and the sections are a whole lot easier to snap together and to take apart.  Operating sections, such as the flashing crossing signals, are superb.  As I noted earlier, this track looks great on any toy train pike.  And, of course, you don't have to spend time applying roadbed and ballast.

Once I get around to doing an inventory of what I have around here, I'll be selling most or all of the other track types I've accumulated over the years (already sold all of my Lionel O gauge switches).  I just don't see myself ever going back to the various other track systems, even though I may hold onto some O27 track and switches for the Marx layout I plan to build.

Different strokes for different folks, of course, and there are other track choices one can cerainly make:  MTH ScaleTrax, Ross and Curtis, K-Line's track, Lionel's old Super O, etc.  I've tried them all at one point or another, and simply decided to settle on the two types of track that best serve my needs and which, in my opinion, offer the greatest reliability, variety, ease of installation, and availability.

[thor]

I wrote to Walter Mattatuch about the lack of short freight and he said wait till 2007 and see. So I live in hope, I figure the least I can do is buy a couple of his locos, especially given the mostly good reports on them. 

Failing that I'll build my own. I went looking in the used places for old Lionel gondolas and flat cars to cut and section but even the most battered looking stuff missing wheels, is priced silly!  I won't name names but here in NY, there's a guy who is either an optimist or an idiot, he sells boxes of broken stuff for prices in excess of what you can pick them up for new.  Really broken up, not just dirt and scratched.  I figure ten bucks tops, he want $150! 

 My fault for not knowing prices but I got a burnt out 027 uncoupler/accessory track plus switch for $10 took me three hours to rebuild, rewire and then I find that I could have bought it new for a couple bucks more, caveat emptor.

I could easily whip up a few English style open wagon bodies, its the wheelsets that are the problem, those plus the axleboxes.  I'm going to see if I can make a modelling clay mold and pour epoxy to make my own, Lionels Troublesome Trucks are way over priced for what they are IMHO.

[JamesPH1966]

If/when I ever build my intended layout I'll be using tubular - mostly Marx O27 & O34 - track/switches mainly to match what will be running on the track (Marx, Pre/Post-War Lionel O27, some smaller K-Line - from Marx molds, and RMT of course - one of these days - hopefully). FastTrack, RealTrax or any of the moulded plastic stuff would look odd to my eye and more "realistic" track (like Gargraves) would also spoil the effect. 

In my opinion, FastTrack is great for a starter-set/floor layout/around the Christmas tree etc. - and especially great for kids - but it is either too new-ish looking for a tinplater/toy train guy like myself, and too plastic looking for a High-Railer - unless of course it's weathered etc. - and at that point wouldn't Gargraves/Ross look better anyway? 

[phillyreading]

There is one other thing to be considered when using Fastrac the diameter of the curve sections,  Fastrac has 36 inch curves verses 31 inch curves for regular O gauge track, 027 has 27 inch curves, GarGraves starts at 32.25 inches and goes up. Another thing is that Fastrac does not cut easy for electrical re-assembly to another piece of Fastrac, in plain english you can't custom fit Fastrac as well as other track systems.

I am happy with regular O gauge track and plastic tie inserts from 3R Plastics.

Lee F.

[EIS2]

Lee,

You stated:

"Another thing is that Fastrac does not cut easy for electrical re-assembly to another piece of Fastrac, in plain english you can't custom fit Fastrac as well as other track systems."

I do not like cutting custom pieces.  I would rather make slight modifications to my track plan rather then cut up a piece of FasTrack.

Earl

[LS1Heli]

It always amazes me that a BB that is so dedicated to the operation of Lionel Trains still has the majority of the people standing in the corner of a track system that was designed in 1915. I stated this time and time again, companies do not work backwards. Products designed in 2003 (FasTrack) can not be any worse than something made in 1915.

I am an operator and some like me choose to blend Lionel Trains with scale structures (like ALL Lionel showroom layouts of the past/present). I am not defending FasTrack, just trying to remove the blinders that a majority of the operators here have.

1) Off the shelf look. Look at the difference between tublar and FT! No comparison. FT is 10x more releastic. "Fixed" up tublar could never look as good as a piece of FT. Does FT have unsightly UTC lockons? Closely spaced ties on FT with balast, and no need for extra $$ and about a hundred hours sticking wooden ties unrealstically next to metal ties and adding 20lbs of balast and glue.

2) Every look at the tublar closely? The crest of the rails is rounded and thin! Ever look at FT? Its flat and wide! FT simply offers 10x better surface area for the rollers (all 3 rails). Check out a Lionel passenger car. Put it on FT and see the lights stop "flickering".

3) Radius and other options. Starts out at a much more realistic 36" curve. 5" doesn't sound like much but it is. Does tublar come in 60" or just awesome 84"? 1 3/4" sections? (the list goes on) NO. Does tublar have Wyes? The options are FAR greater and WILL be growing with every passing year.

4) The FT switches are the best part. NO light bulbs. It is so nice if fixed volatge is not being used on tubular switches. FT switches have LEDs. The truely BEST part is in almost 100 years, Lionel actually produced a switch that is the same height as the track it connects to! What a treat! Instead of seeing a 773 Hudson going over tublar/tublar switch connections and looking like a roller coaster at Disney World, you have a totally smooth system with FT. No unrealistic dipping!! I hate that!

5) Ease of assembly. After 20years I am so sick and tired of pins, fiber pins, pull that pin, stick that pin there, etc. Thats BS! FT simply snaps together and your done. I spent more time dickin around with pulling pins, insterting, retightening then I did worrying about my track plan. Also, no matter what you do, rails NEVER become completely tight/aligned on tublar. Maybe on straight sections it can but on curve sections you always have a gap. That gap = more wear, louder operation, poor realism and it just looks bad. I don't care to run my $2,000 engine over that. FT is also ease to connect when new. No more cut hands or gouges in my skin. Trying assmebling a new piece of curved tublar.

6) Also Lionel did not leave out the people stuck in 1955. If you have an existing layout or operate equipment that requires tublar there is a transition piece. Not too many people realize it but this $5 piece is a vital connection between the old and the new. It connects two generations- where Lionel was and where Lionel is going.

7) Ease of cleaning. FT when combined with delicately placed land scaping is easier to clean. Simply apply Goo Gone to a clean rag and wipe. No disturbing balast or other time consuming placed scenery.

I can go on and on about how much better this wonderful track has brought to the hobby and operators.

 

 

[lionelsoni]

Amazing.  I think I'll stick with "tublar".

[Frank53]

Amazing.  I think I'll stick with "tublar".

I think I'm with you.

[Blueberryhill RR]

Amazing.  I think I'll stick with "tublar".

I think I'm with you.

Me too. Tubular.

[csxt30]

Amazing.  I think I'll stick with "tublar".

I think I'm with you.

Me too. Tubular.

Not me !!  I want to get the Fastrack cause it costs a heck of a lot more & plus it's very loud !! On top of that, it's a lot more fun to try to make special sections & it just makes a whole lot more sense to me !!  Plus you won't find it in garbage cans either or see people throwing it away !! I really like it !!

Thanks, John 

[spankybird]

csxt30 - John, Can I have all of your GG track then???

[dgraham]

Couldn't agree more with LS1heli.  I haven't used ubular in 50 years so my memory may be weak on its benefits, but fastrack for me has been trouble free.  I have a large temporary floor layout ( over 200 feet of track and a dozen switches - both manual and remote) and nothing ever goes wrong.  I haven't even found it to be particularly difficult to make custom pieces and have even drilled small holes in the side of the ballast to install undertrack on/off switches to control power on sidings. 

[csxt30]

csxt30 - John, Can I have all of your GG track then???

Yes Tom, but wouldn't you rather switch to Fastrak ??!!  

Thanks, John

[msacco]

you know it's really all in the eye of the beholder. I'm glad some people feel so strongly about  Fasttrack because it's nice to have options. 

    Personally, I think when compared to tubular with additonal ties and ballast, Fasttrack looks even more toy like. That plastic fast track road bed is pretty bad. But then again so is Realtrax's.

Whatever floats your boat. I also stick with tubular until Super O comes back. (probably not in my lifetime unfortunately)!

 

Mike S.

[jimhaleyscomet]

Nothing beats Fastrak for floor layouts.  Noise is not an issue when it is on top of carpet, and multiple assembly / dissasembly does not ruin it.  The road bed protects the carpet from oil and the track stays together and electrical connections are always solid even on the 2nd or 3rd time it is reassembled. 

Jim H