getting started - using 027?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by lionelsoni

My thing is seeing how much I can get away with on O27. I run a Big Boy, a Trainmaster, and a 16-wheel flatcar, among other things. They all had to be modified, but surprisingly little; and for me that is part of the fun.

My objection to O31 is that the track profile is even more out of scale than O27. Although my tightest curves are O27, I do use O34, O42, O54, and O72 where there is room. They are all available in the O27 profile.

I have one main-line loop that is all O34; so any visiting O31 equipment can run there. For now, my 773 is confined to that track--until I figure how to get it through the O27 switches. If you are not familiar with O34, I suggest that you check it out. It was made by Marx and matches O27 track. You can find it without too much trouble at train shows and on the internet. You can recognize it in Ebay pictures by the 5 Marx-style ties in each 45-degree curved section. Marx made some very good switches for it.

I use almost exclusively K-Line 36-inch sections for tangents. This reduces the number of joints by a factor of 4.

[MacGowan]

I have a slightly different attitude about O27 track. I still have my original 1954 O27 set. Since 1988 I've gone into collecting and operating with a focus on only O27 engines and cars made between 1945 and 1959. On my layout, I strive for total retro, which means I use old O27 track., even with all of its problems. I carefully straighten it , clean it, and tighten up the pins (I do use many new pins). I've found the best way to clean old track is as has been suggested, using Scotch-Brite (TM) pads and sometimes Goo Gone. Another trick is a Dremel rotary tool with a stainless steel brush bit. It is fast and really cleans the aged gunk (wear eye protection and an apron because stuff - and bristles- really fly!). So there can be compelling reasons to use even old O27 track.

[MacGowan]

I have a slightly different attitude about O27 track. I still have my original 1954 O27 set. Since 1988 I've gone into collecting and operating with a focus on only O27 engines and cars made between 1945 and 1959. On my layout, I strive for total retro, which means I use old O27 track., even with all of its problems. I carefully straighten it , clean it, and tighten up the pins (I do use many new pins). I've found the best way to clean old track is as has been suggested, using Scotch-Brite (TM) pads and sometimes Goo Gone. Another trick is a Dremel rotary tool with a stainless steel brush bit. It is fast and really cleans the aged gunk (wear eye protection and an apron because stuff - and bristles- really fly!). So there can be compelling reasons to use even old O27 track.

[yellowducky]

Hi, I just got a free sample of a Scotch-Brite(TM) Never Rust Wool Soap Pad. Not suppose to rust or splinter and 3 times the cleaning power of traditional steel wool pads. Wonder how it would work on rusted track? I don't think I would wet the soap. I personally know about Never, no NEVER! use steel wool within 100 feet of model trains! My older brothers (at least one of them) did. I got them out of the attic and tried to run the old set when I was in high school. I remember I spent quite a while with tweezers and a magnet on my Lionel magna-trak steam engine.

TRAINing, a learning experience.

[yellowducky]

Hi, I just got a free sample of a Scotch-Brite(TM) Never Rust Wool Soap Pad. Not suppose to rust or splinter and 3 times the cleaning power of traditional steel wool pads. Wonder how it would work on rusted track? I don't think I would wet the soap. I personally know about Never, no NEVER! use steel wool within 100 feet of model trains! My older brothers (at least one of them) did. I got them out of the attic and tried to run the old set when I was in high school. I remember I spent quite a while with tweezers and a magnet on my Lionel magna-trak steam engine.

TRAINing, a learning experience.

[Kaufu2]

Jumping back to the original question, when you clean your O-27 track, make sure you clean the connecting pins as well, as these are what transmit the majority of the current from track section to track section. I also squirt electronic contact cleaner into the track sections where the pins go just to try to clean that up as well. And it can never be said enough ( maybe it should be put on a bumper sticker ) NEVER use steel wool to clean track. Depending upon the degree of corrosion and dirt, I use the Scotch Brite pot cleaners, ink erasers and denatured alcohol to wipe up after myself. Something like Goof Off, or Goo Gone also seems to work well. The cleaner the track, the better your trains will run.

[Kaufu2]

Jumping back to the original question, when you clean your O-27 track, make sure you clean the connecting pins as well, as these are what transmit the majority of the current from track section to track section. I also squirt electronic contact cleaner into the track sections where the pins go just to try to clean that up as well. And it can never be said enough ( maybe it should be put on a bumper sticker ) NEVER use steel wool to clean track. Depending upon the degree of corrosion and dirt, I use the Scotch Brite pot cleaners, ink erasers and denatured alcohol to wipe up after myself. Something like Goof Off, or Goo Gone also seems to work well. The cleaner the track, the better your trains will run.

[Anonymous]

thanks yellowducky and Kooljock1, and apologies to jjrva for horing in on his thread post. I think you've told me enought to try to hook things up. I'll let you know how that goes, and I'm thinking about the moving to a smaller size question.

Thanks again!

- Paul

[Anonymous]

thanks yellowducky and Kooljock1, and apologies to jjrva for horing in on his thread post. I think you've told me enought to try to hook things up. I'll let you know how that goes, and I'm thinking about the moving to a smaller size question.

Thanks again!

- Paul

[Kooljock1]

It's been a long time since I was a beginner, but I'll pass along what I've learned. One is that for me at least, O-27 track causes much weeping and gnashing of teeth. The track is flimsy, the rails slide off their ties, and the switches cause more problems than they're worth.

A long time ago I decided on using O-31 as the standard for my layout. Along with extra ties (from 3r Plastics in Nippersink, Ill.), ballast, and rust brown paint on the rails, it looks pretty darn good!

Having said that, I bought my six year old daughter the new New York Central Flyer set with FasTrack and the CW-80 transformer. I'd be sorely tempted to use FasTrack on my next layout. But this depends on the quality of the forth-coming automatic switches.

Jon [8D]

[Kooljock1]

It's been a long time since I was a beginner, but I'll pass along what I've learned. One is that for me at least, O-27 track causes much weeping and gnashing of teeth. The track is flimsy, the rails slide off their ties, and the switches cause more problems than they're worth.

A long time ago I decided on using O-31 as the standard for my layout. Along with extra ties (from 3r Plastics in Nippersink, Ill.), ballast, and rust brown paint on the rails, it looks pretty darn good!

Having said that, I bought my six year old daughter the new New York Central Flyer set with FasTrack and the CW-80 transformer. I'd be sorely tempted to use FasTrack on my next layout. But this depends on the quality of the forth-coming automatic switches.

Jon [8D]

[yellowducky]

Originally posted by paulstark
[ I've got a 1033 multicontrol transformer from 1950 or so. I found a picture of the thing on the net, but not how to hook it up. Wires are attached to the posts on top (why are there four?) and then those wires attach to what? Is there a picture of the whole setup somewhere, or an instruction manual?]
Hi Paul, welcome to the forum. I have 2 type 1033, 90watt tranformers. One came with the trains my mother bought for my 3 older brothers and me when I was a couple /three weeks old. She still has the receipt, dated Dec.19th,1950. All it says is: "one train-$19.95". Now to your inquiry. The top plate tells everything if it is legible and explained! The 1033 delivers AC current through any combination of the 4 posts. 2 wires from the transformer are usually fastened to a LOCKON, which is clipped to the center and either outside rail. For speed to be controled by the black(right) handle, use the left post (U-with the posts away from you) and the 2nd or 3rd from left post. If the 2nd (post A) is used, a minimum of 5 volts increases to 16 as the left handle is turned from hor. to vert. If the 3rd (post B) is used, voltage will be delivered starting at zero, to a max of 11volts as the handle is turned. U and C (right post) deliveres 16volts only, when handle turned part way (this one tapers to zero afer that on one of mine). Wires from posts A/B (5 volts) , B/C (11 volts), and A/C (16 volts ) can be used for accessaries that use constant voltage. The orange (left) handle is spring loaded, and when the pointer at the top (away from you) is turned to the left, the voltage the black handle is controling, is momentarily interrupted. Turning the orange the other way will activate an on board whistle if the train has one (older ones, I don't know about modern ones) by throwing a DC voltage out, I think. Happy TRAINing. Frank
PS: Hope this helps, feel free to e-mail me if you have any other questions.

FDM TRAIN up a child in the way he should go...Proverbs22:6 Garrett, home of The Garrett Railroaders, and other crazy people. The 5 basic food groups are: candy, poptarts, chocolate, pie, and filled donuts !

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