train bridge question-track breaks

[Anonymous]

Hi
I have a part on my layout on need some advice on. I have a swing bridge that spans the doorway to my train room. It is made of bar iron and hinged to my table, like a drawbridge. The hinge side will not allow a tight joint for the upward operation of the bridge. The joint would have to be about 1/2" to clear the bridge upward operation when I want to leave the train room. My solution is to have both sections drop in and have wood runners on both sides fastened to hold the track in line with the fastened track on the ends. This will eliminate the joint. Here is the theory-when I want to run trains, I swing the bridge down, insert the two 36" tubular tracks (two mainlines over bridge) and run the trains. HERE IS THE QUESTION-Do I need to make some sort of jumper wires on the removeable tracks or will a solder point and or lockon be sufficient it each end. I am afraid that the trains will stall on the bridge. HELP
Thanks
Tom

[Buckeye Riveter]

QUOTE: Originally posted by northernpikefish

Hi
HERE IS THE QUESTION-Do I need to make some sort of jumper wires on the removeable tracks or will a solder point and or lockon be sufficient it each end. I am afraid that the trains will stall on the bridge. HELP
Thanks
Tom

I would. Go to Radio Shack and get the RC Battery Charger hookup wires. This is a white plastic two pronged plug with a small snap lock and use it as a fast connection. I use this type of plug outside and not only does it make a great connection because it does not come apart, but when I take the transformer inside it is easy to disconnect.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062133&cp=&kw=rc&kwCatId=2032056&parentPage=search

[Anonymous]

On the jumpers, I conect the middle rail (hot) but do I need to connect both outside rails?
Thanks
Tom

[lionelsoni]

The ties of the tubular track will do a good job of connecting the outside rails together; so you need only two wires.

I sounds like the problem you're having is due to the axis of the hinge pin's being below the height of the railhead. If you can rearrange the hinge(s) to be at or above the top of the rails, you should be able to make a close rail gap and keep the track permanently on the bridge.

[daan]

Why do you need the bridge to stay in place when it's not in use? I would go for a loose bridge which can be dropped in place and held by some pins fitting in holes in the base of the bridge. Under the bridge you can make 2 plugs and wires to plug in for electrical connection. You don't need to put the tracks into place each time, which will loosen the railconnections after a few times, because the tracks are fitted on the bridge and inlines with the tracks on the table by the pins holding the bridge. The electrical connection is made by the plugs.

[Anonymous]

Bob is correct. The hing pin is belw the surface-I forgot about that. It is bolted into the bridge and table. The bridge is made of unistrut and plywood and weighs about 40-50lbs. I wanted it strong in case my kids decide to swing from it. I do not want to redo the hinges-they are really bolted down well. My plan was to anchor the track down on one side of the table. This is how it is supposed to work-
1-lower table in front of door
2-set long track (36" Lionel 031) with track pin into fastened track at hinge end.
(I have wood runners the height of the ties keeping the track in line with the other end so there is no side to side movement)
3-plug wires together at open end on track

Is this the best way, now that my bridge is built?

[lionelsoni]

Since you're going to put the track together on one end with track pins, you don't really need any wires to the track on the bridge. But you many need to make a connection between the permanent tracks from one side to the other of the opening. You can do that by running wires, for example, over the doorway or under a threshold. If your connections to the tracks on each side from whereever your transformer is are good enough, you don't even need that.

I have a liftout bridge in a similar situation, which I also plug it together with trackpins at one end. However, at the other end, I have spread the ends of the rails to make an inverted-V shape, which fits down over the protruding track pins from the permanent track. I don't depend on this for an electrical connection; but it guarantees that the rails will be in perfect alignment. I have no ties for the last couple of inches on the bridge; and the rails with the spread ends are very slightly bent down, so that, when they engage the track pins they are pushed up just a little to make a snug fit.

[Anonymous]

Bob, you are right. I am running a #12 bus over the door in conduit and around the layout. Off this buss, every 10' or so I am soldering jumpers for voltage drop. What do you think?
Thanks
Tom

[lionelsoni]

I think you'll be in great shape without any extra wiring to the bridge. Your bus should do the job.