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Benchwork building how to's?

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Benchwork building how to's?
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 9, 2005 2:50 PM
Anyone have any good ideas, resources or plans on building your own benchwork? I've got some ideas but wanted to first pick your collective brains. Overall my layout bench is going to be 8' x 12'. The only kicker is that I can't fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood down my basement stairwell. I also want something that can be disassembled if I move in the next 5 years or something. So I'm thinking of ripping the 4x8 sheets into 2x8 sheets...or 4x4 sheets. What should my framework look like underneath? Considering that I want it to disassemble therefore I'll really have 6 different tabletops to fit together, how is best to connect them all underneath?

Thoughts? Designs? Ideas? Concerns? Jokes?

Thanks!

Matt
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Posted by csxt30 on Wednesday, March 9, 2005 4:13 PM
Hello, though I,m not the best at explaining it, I have used the L-girder type along with open grid over the years. There are, or should be regular books on building benchwork at your local hobby shop, if you have a hobby shop near you. The L- girder lets you change positions of your risers if you need to later, & that is for the different levels should you want more than 1level of track. Mine have always came out very sturdy, and I found it easy to diassemble when moving. I'm permanent now, moved many times in the past. It's always been easy to add onto, also. I think Kalmbach publishes the benchwork building books. Hope this helped a little, John
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Posted by willpick on Wednesday, March 9, 2005 5:13 PM
Matt, going with a 2x8 system is a good idea. I did that for my around the wall N scale layout. What you should do to make it modular is build the 2x8 modules, the clamp 2 of them together and drill holes for 1/4" bolts thru the clamped sides. A 2 1/2" bolt, a few washers and a wingnut will make a very secure connection. I'd also do the same for the legs, but I used two bolts per leg(2x2's). Built in this fashion, you can disassemble and take your tables with you if you move.
Hope this helps[:)]!

A Day Without Trains is a Day Wasted

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Posted by Roger Bielen on Wednesday, March 9, 2005 6:28 PM
Matt, when I did my benchwork I found "How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork" by Linn H. Wescott, Kalmback Books very helpful. Though it is aimed more at HO the techniques are the same. You might find it in the shopping area since Kalmback is the publisher of CTT.
Roger B.
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Posted by Buckeye Riveter on Wednesday, March 9, 2005 9:19 PM
For about the fifth time we dig into the CTT forum archives BTW, if you want the scanned plans just email me and I will send you the .bmp files showing the dimensions of the bench work.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter

[#welcome] to the CTT forum.
Here is an old posting that we just keep recirculating

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter

Last year, Chief Eagles stopped by when he was in Wheeling, WV at the grand opening of the Cabela's store. He wanted to see what I was doing and how it performed. One of the advantages and disadvantages that I have is the slope of the ceiling reflects the sound out to the operator and viewers.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ChiefEagles

Talk to Buckeye. He has his layout on foam only [yes foam only]. He uses deck screws pushed into the foam and they will hold the track in place. He says they will hold it fine and the track will settle into the foam some after running trains on it. I've seen his layout and it works fine.

Here are some of his photos: [he will not mind and can share more of construction]






QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter

Thank you Chief for those kind words. [:)][:)] I know it is hard for you to say such benevolent statements about a YANKEE from Buckeye Land. [:D]

And now on to the foam. Yes, my whole layout sits on foam. It is high-density 2" foam purchased at Home Depot, one of my favorite stores. The foam sits on joists at approximately 16" spacing. On top of the high density foam sits the 1" white foam.
Again, the Chief is correct, I do use deck screw or drywall screws to hold the track to the foam. If you really have a problem holding to the foam, I use a plastic "Molly" type connection and low heat glue and imbed it. I wished I had taken a photo of this.

The main reasons I used foam were; 1. The layout is designed to move and 2. after shelling out my hard earned money for Railsounds, I wanted to hear it. [:)] The foam accomplished both goals.


My layout extension under construction will not use the 1" white foam overlay, since the two inch meets all the goals stated above.


Approx. same view of layout as above

Q: How do you walk on the layout?
A: I don't. I designed it so I could reach everything. My new addition will have hidden hatches inside the exposed loops. The cat has been know to walk on the layout and hide in the tunnel.

Q: Does it make wiring easier?
A: Much easier. I use an extra long drill bit (10”) and punch through the foam. No drilling required, as you need to do with wood.

Q: Over time does it deflect or sag?
A: We have not seen any sag in the foam. On my previous HO layout the plywood sagged all the time with the changes of moisture in the air.

Q: Where are the transformer and controls located?
A: Under the layout on a small shelf

Q: How much will it hold?
A: I might try to calculate that someday. [:)]



One other thing, if you look near the end of the book, How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork , by Linn Westcott, published by Kalambach, he just starts to touch on the subject on the use of foam. This book is usually found in most decent hobby stores.


The MTH RealTrax is attached very securely to the foam with deck screws. If you want to make the attachment even more secure, paint the area beneath the track with a white glue-water mixture. This mixture just makes the foam a little stronger.

Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum. Smile, Wink & Grin

Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..

Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR

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Posted by CNJfan on Thursday, March 10, 2005 6:24 AM
I used the CTT book "Toy Train Layout From Start to finish" and the methods worked out perfectly. I can't seem to post pics on this forum so if you wi***o see a few photos of the benchwork I built just send me an email and I will reply with the photos.
Tim C.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:26 AM
I also have the Wescott book. I've yet to build anything from it, but I can recommend the book.

Tony
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Thursday, March 10, 2005 2:37 PM
You could take the ideas above and combine it with the concept forwarded by David Barrows in his Cat Mountain and Santa Fe model RR. He used a "domino" theory to build modules for his RR. Each 2x4 domino was something he could work on in front of the TV and then carry it to the train room for installation.

There were several articles in Model Railroader a couple of years ago on his domino concept.

Regards,
Roy

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Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, March 10, 2005 2:57 PM
The westcott book is a real classic!
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 14, 2005 11:50 AM
Many thanks to Buckeye Riveter for sending me 20 something diagrams and pictures of his layout plans! I will be re-doing my layout based on his great plans.
Mike
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Posted by FJ and G on Monday, March 14, 2005 12:11 PM
Now that I'm more experienced, I don't do benchwork anymore. Around the walls shelving is where it's happening!!!

I use Closet Maid, double fortified brackets up to 2 feet long and have made 3 layers of shelving on the wall (ignore the construction). I lay particle board on it and then 2 foot thick industrial foam.







Ruff, Ruff

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Posted by laz 57 on Monday, March 14, 2005 1:13 PM
MATT,
We just got done building my brothers layout and we cut the homosote that he used for his top to 4x4. We used the homosote cause we got it dirt cheap, I would use what BUCKEYE said if I were to do it again. Anyway you do it, one thing to consider is your height. I made mine at 34 inches which was ok for me cause I had scrounged lots of cabinets that our school was throwing out so I used them for my bases. This works ok but had to boost my love seat up 6 inches to see the layout. My brother made his at 18 inches and I must say it looks nice to sit in a chair and check out the whole layout without craning your neck. Just my thoughts.
laz57
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Posted by Dr. John on Monday, March 14, 2005 4:15 PM
Matt,

My previous layout was constructed from three 36" hollow core doors. I added 1x3 wood cross members to the undersides to attach folding banquet table legs. This gave me a layout a bit larger than 6x9. It worked very well for me. I completed the "benchwork" in about 2 hours. It's simple, semi-portable, and fairly inexpensive. The doors can cause a problem with noise if you don't cover it with foam or some other sound-deadening material.
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Posted by jonadel on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 7:58 AM
My benchwork started before I retired so I had no time to build from scratch if I ever wanted to see trains run. I opted for the Sievers benchwork and I'm really glad I did, it's perfect for my application. Plus, if we ever move I can easily adapt these modules to a new setting. I think in your situation it would be ideal.

Knowing what I know now I would have to echo David Vergun's thoughts, around the walls--shelving. I would come out 30-36"...... maybe 40" (I have a long reach). I just have to believe that's the way to go for ease of construction, being able to easily reach anything and no aisle problems.

Hope this helps.

Jon

Jon

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 11:10 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by FJ and G

... I lay particle board on it and then 2 foot thick industrial foam...


David:

Er, sorry to be a nit picker, but did you perhaps mean 2 INCH thick industrial foam? The foam in your pictures doesn't appear to be 2 feet thick. Then again, I do need to get my eyes examined & a new pair of glasses made ...

Tony
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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 11:35 AM
Tony,

I've got Marine styrofoam that's more than 2 feet thick; I believe it may be used for docks?

Got it from a dumpster in Alexandria so can't provide source. It's 8 feet long and about 4 feet wide and some pieces are well over 2 feet thick. My layout was a lot higher with the foam originally.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 16, 2005 7:50 PM
Re: Buckeye Riveter's Idea of Using Foam:
I went to Hobby Lobby today to find a small piece of extruded styrofoam. Hobby Lobby also sells the "Wonder Cutter" for cutting the foam. I paid $8.00 for it. I have used it once on a 2-inch thick piece of foam--the Wonder Cutter cut it instantly. So far I am impressed with this tool. I plan on changing my layout within the next month.

Update: I tried to use this tool on a 4 x 8 ft. (2 inch thick) piece. It did not work quite as well. The trailing end became stuck in the foam and the wire kept coming off.

Mike
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Posted by TurboOne on Sunday, March 20, 2005 9:36 AM
Here in CA the foam is $35 for a 4 x 8 x 2". The is more than plywood. Holy Moly Batman.
What does it cost where you are ?

Tim
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Posted by csxt30 on Sunday, March 20, 2005 9:45 AM
Tim, I think it was only 8 dollars to 18 dollars a sheet at Home Depot. Forgot which size was what now though! Thanks, John
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, March 20, 2005 10:44 AM
The 2 inch foam in 4 x 8 sheets (white) was about $9 at Menard's and Home Depot in central WI. The pink (Owens Corning) was about $18 at both places.
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Posted by Dr. John on Sunday, March 20, 2005 5:33 PM
It is difficult to find two inch thick foam down in the deep south. Most home impovement centers like Home Depot or Lowes only keep the 3/4" or 1" in stock. I've tried stacking the foam and gluing with liquid nails - a reasonable substitute. Last time I noticed the 1" foam was about $12 for a 4x8 sheet.
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Posted by Sturgeon-Phish on Monday, March 21, 2005 2:01 AM
There is a big price difference in which foamboard you buy. Some is hight density and other is not and the less dense tends to be cheaper but at the same time less rigid.
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Posted by TurboOne on Monday, March 21, 2005 2:05 AM
No pink or blue, just white here at HD and Lowe's. Also no 2 inch anywhere. White has 1 side with blue plastic on it. Might have to go with that. Plywood and 1 inch foam cheaper than 2" of foam. Just blew my mind on price.

Tim
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Posted by Buckeye Riveter on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:23 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by mickeyg

Re: Buckeye Riveter's Idea of Using Foam:
I went to Hobby Lobby today to find a small piece of extruded styrofoam. Hobby Lobby also sells the "Wonder Cutter" for cutting the foam. I paid $8.00 for it. I have used it once on a 2-inch thick piece of foam--the Wonder Cutter cut it instantly. So far I am impressed with this tool. I plan on changing my layout within the next month.

Update: I tried to use this tool on a 4 x 8 ft. (2 inch thick) piece. It did not work quite as well. The trailing end became stuck in the foam and the wire kept coming off.

Mike

Mike, I wondered what would happen to the "Wonder Cutter" when you tackled 2" foam. I also found Woodland Scenics cutter to be useless for big pieces of foam. I am been using a cutter called TIPPI from Premium Concepts and it cuts two inch foam and no breakage of wires. It is expensive but it works and doesn't break. Sometimes they are sold at train shows.

Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum. Smile, Wink & Grin

Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..

Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR

TCA 09-64284

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