I have a lionel 685 and I would like to know more about it! I know it was only made for one year, 1953, and looks almost identical to 2055. I would also like to know how many car it could possibly pull!
Thanks!
Mine pulls more cars than my layout can handle. It was made in 1953 only, but I believe it had a unique boilerfront. Either that or it was the one used for the 2046, 646, and 736. It was unique among the ATSF small hudsons, at any rate. The 2055 was an 027 version that was similar, had the same mechanism.
Ohh, Thanks for the info! Mine is really load and im not sure if this is normal, it sounds like a coffee grinder. Should I pay no attention to it or what?
There could be a problem. I picked up a 2055 at a train show about a week ago, the E-unit was nice and strong but the engine made a coffee grinder noise and wouldn't move. Long story short the motor was filthy plus the armature hole in the brush holder had enlarged causing the motor armature to wobble.
Cleaned the motor armature and brushes and replaced the brush holder with a spare I had. No more bad noise and it runs like a champ, pulls 13 cars with no trouble. I could probably add a few more cars and have it chasing its tail!
Wish I (and everyone else) could hear what your 685 sounds like. Bear in mind those old Lionels are going to be a lot noisier than the current generation of can motored products. Some noise is perfectly normal with those old units.
Any Lionel afficionados in your area or rail hobby shops? You might want to take it to same for an opinion.
According to the good book (Standard Catalog of Lionel Trains 1945-1969 by David Doyle):
"685: This 4-6-4 Hudson locomotive, which shared a boiler casting with the 655, 2055 and 2065 was styled along the lines of engines of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway. It was produced for 1953 only. The locomotive had a die-cast body, Magnetraction, smoke and operating headlight. Wire handrails, ornamental bell and ornamental whistle adorned the black-painted body. The boiler front of this engine was the same as that used on the 2046 and 646, which in turn was a non-opening version of the Berkshire boiler front. The trailing truck was of composite sheet metal and plastic construction, and the engine's direction was controlled by a three-position E-unit. In addition to main and side rods, the locomotive had a moving representation of valve gear to provide action as it moved along the track. The 685 was supplied with the 6026W Santa Fe-type tender lettered 'Lionel Lines'."
"685 Type 1: Slightly less than half of the locomotives produced seem to have had their numbers applied by rubber-stamping in white, which makes this version a little more desirable than the heat-stamped version."
"685 Type 2: Most of the production came with white heat-stamped numbering."
That's all I know about the 685.
Becky
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
That era of postwar steamer tend to have a similar "growl" to thier gear drive. The earlier engines like 224 and 675 tend to be almost silent. As long as everything spins smooth and not run real hot, I say she is good to go. Excellent engine, one on my eventual to be bought list as they are usualy affordable and have a centered headlight. Mike
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
Toy Trains FTW...looks almost identical to 2055.
The 685 is the "O" version of the "O-27" 2055. Except for the catalog number, they are identical. The modern era "685" type (with magnetraction) was first produced in 1979 as the 8900 FARR Santa Fe. The shell & mechanism was used on the earlier 8206 & 8603, but these featured Baldwin Disc style wheels and rubber tire traction.
Rob
Toy Trains FTWMine is really load and im not sure if this is normal, it sounds like a coffee grinder.
The aluminum parallel-plate motors used with Magnetraction steamers are notoriously loud, and can be substantially quieted with the use of modern synthetic lubricants. Especially on these, a thin coating of Lucas Red 'N' Tacky #2 grease on all gears where they ride/face the motor plates will interrupt the harmonics and gear rattling. This, in addition to all other recommended lubrication, will smooth out the operation very nicely. Pay particular attention to the gear axles/studs with oil or grease as these are a known wear concern.
I have aquired three 2055 in the last few months and love all 3 of them. also two 675 that some one else mentioned and love them also the 2055 I have had no problems with other than I need to replace a smoke unit in one. And one came with no trailing truck and tender hook but they all after cleaning run great.
thanks for the info all
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Thanks Firelock76! My 685 will run pretty good it can run at a reletivly slow speed. I think I will take it to my local train store and see what they say! Thanks again for the info!
Thanks for the info Pennystrains! Some of that info I have never heard of before! I will have to buy me one of those books! :-)
Ok thanks EmdMike! I would recommend the 685! I like mine for the reason it was only made in 1953. The 2055 is awesome too!
ADCX Rob Toy Trains FTW Mine is really load and im not sure if this is normal, it sounds like a coffee grinder. The aluminum parallel-plate motors used with Magnetraction steamers are notoriously loud, and can be substantially quieted with the use of modern synthetic lubricants. Especially on these, a thin coating of Lucas Red 'N' Tacky #2 grease on all gears where they ride/face the motor plates will interrupt the harmonics and gear rattling. This, in addition to all other recommended lubrication, will smooth out the operation very nicely. Pay particular attention to the gear axles/studs with oil or grease as these are a known wear concern.
Toy Trains FTW Mine is really load and im not sure if this is normal, it sounds like a coffee grinder.
You're very welcome T-T-FTW! Keep us posted, let us know how it all turns out.
By the way, if you're getting into vintage Lionel, and this seems to be a good time to do it, they're pretty affordable now, keep your eyes peeled for the 2056 Hudson. It was made only in 1952, I've got one, it's slightly bigger than the 2055 models. It's a bruiser and can pull tree stumps out of the ground!
My compliments, it's a pleasure to have someone acknowledge the advice given here. Many times the recipient drops out of sight leaving us to wonder about the "end of the story."
Firelock76 You're very welcome T-T-FTW! Keep us posted, let us know how it all turns out. By the way, if you're getting into vintage Lionel, and this seems to be a good time to do it, they're pretty affordable now, keep your eyes peeled for the 2056 Hudson. It was made only in 1952, I've got one, it's slightly bigger than the 2055 models. It's a bruiser and can pull tree stumps out of the ground! My compliments, it's a pleasure to have someone acknowledge the advice given here. Many times the recipient drops out of sight leaving us to wonder about the "end of the story."
The 2056 is a one year only model (1952) that was made due to the Korean conflict. It lacks magnetraction. The 2046 is the same engine with magnetraction. It was made in 1950-51 and 1953.
Here is a link to a very good reference site: http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionelident.htm
DANG that's a good website! Thanks for posting Mr. Burfle!
Oh, and the lack of Magne-Traction doesn't bother me, I run on nickle-silver track to avoid corrosion issues, the layout's in an outbuilding. That 2056 pulls like a Clydesdale anyway.
Thanks for the info and website CW!
Toy Trains FTW Thanks for the info and website CW!
And here is another. Funny how they don't always aggree.
http://www.postwarlionel.com/
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
KRM Toy Trains FTW Thanks for the info and website CW! And here is another. Funny how they don't always aggree. http://www.postwarlionel.com/
I am familar with both. I prefer the Tandem Associates one. I think the owner of that site makes a good effort to be accurate. Don't know about the other.
The other was partially finished, somebody stopped working on it around 2004esque. I think that the holes, combined with new stuff, causes problems.
Hello everybody! It's me again, yesterday I tried to run my 685 locked into forward only on the E-unit and it ran fine then it started to jerk back and forth rapidly like a mad man had gotten ahold of it so I turn off track power and went to inspect the loco and I found the engine some how threw the E-unit lever to the center of the slot! Does anyone know why this could happen?
Toy Trains FTWDoes anyone know why this could happen?
The 100-52 eyelet is working loose over time and should be re-peened.
oh ok, Thanks!
Tightening the eyelet is tricky because you need something to back it up, and there is little clearance between the back of the eyelet and the e-unit coil.
Some folks slide a horsehoe washer behind the e-unit lever to create more tension. You can also slide it between the fiber plate and the metal e-unit frame. Just make certain the washer's legs straddle the mounting eyelet.
I have done this when I did not have the time to disassemble the e-unit to tighten the e-unit lever eyelet.
Thanks I will give it a try!
If you are real careful about it, bending the bottom portion of the L shaped lever ought to tighten it. It's not the most permanent fix, but it works well for me.
cwburfle And here is another. Funny how they don't always aggree. I am familar with both. I prefer the Tandem Associates one. I think the owner of that site makes a good effort to be accurate. Don't know about the other.
Agree,
I have questioned Tandem Associates on things and they have made corrections. Good place for a lot of information.
tinplatacis If you are real careful about it, bending the bottom portion of the L shaped lever ought to tighten it. It's not the most permanent fix, but it works well for me.
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