Firelock76 If the engine runs fine under most circumstances but goes koo-koo when it passes over that operating track section I'd suspect the track section's to blame, but I'm just guessing here. I run my trains on plain closed loops with no accessories hooked up, I just prefer it that way.
If the engine runs fine under most circumstances but goes koo-koo when it passes over that operating track section I'd suspect the track section's to blame, but I'm just guessing here. I run my trains on plain closed loops with no accessories hooked up, I just prefer it that way.
Hello everyone,
Sorry for the inactiveness. I recently came up on a question about the 685 and operating track section. I was running my 685 and i decided to back it onto a siding with the operation track section (which I have never done before) and the engine started to do a rapid jerking motion back and forth like the E-unit thing while it was over the section and the track was hooked up right. So the question is what is everyones opinion or idea of what is happening? Thanks in advance.
P.S. the whistle started to blow too
Thank you for the recommendation!! I happen to have gotten that DVD this past Christmas but I have yet to get the manual. hopefully i can get it soon!
T-T-FTW, let me recommend a great DVD to you, TM Books and Videos "Maintenance and Repair Guide for Lionel Electric Trains and Accessories."
It's got just about everything in it you need to know to keep vintage Lionels alive. Quite entertaining and easy to follow. It's helped me a lot.
If you can't find it a your local train shop see if they can order it for you, or you can order direct at www.tmbv.com. Well worth the price.
Also, I'd strongly suggest you get a copy of "Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains", published by Kalmbach. For the parts breakdowns and nomenclature it's priceless.
Okay Thanks for the info!
I tighened e-unit levers by bending the little leg that actually contacts the terminal for many years. It certainly works. I do think sliding a horseshoe washer in the stack somewhere is a neater solution. If you ever have to do a complete rebuild of the e-unit, the washer can be removed and the rest of the e-unit parts will be reuseable.
If you bend the lever, and decide to rebuild the e-unit, most styles of replacement levers are available
tinplatacis If you are real careful about it, bending the bottom portion of the L shaped lever ought to tighten it. It's not the most permanent fix, but it works well for me.
If you are real careful about it, bending the bottom portion of the L shaped lever ought to tighten it. It's not the most permanent fix, but it works well for me.
cwburfle And here is another. Funny how they don't always aggree. I am familar with both. I prefer the Tandem Associates one. I think the owner of that site makes a good effort to be accurate. Don't know about the other.
And here is another. Funny how they don't always aggree.
I am familar with both. I prefer the Tandem Associates one. I think the owner of that site makes a good effort to be accurate. Don't know about the other.
Agree,
I have questioned Tandem Associates on things and they have made corrections. Good place for a lot of information.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Thanks I will give it a try!
Tightening the eyelet is tricky because you need something to back it up, and there is little clearance between the back of the eyelet and the e-unit coil.
Some folks slide a horsehoe washer behind the e-unit lever to create more tension. You can also slide it between the fiber plate and the metal e-unit frame. Just make certain the washer's legs straddle the mounting eyelet.
I have done this when I did not have the time to disassemble the e-unit to tighten the e-unit lever eyelet.
oh ok, Thanks!
Toy Trains FTWDoes anyone know why this could happen?
The 100-52 eyelet is working loose over time and should be re-peened.
Rob
Hello everybody! It's me again, yesterday I tried to run my 685 locked into forward only on the E-unit and it ran fine then it started to jerk back and forth rapidly like a mad man had gotten ahold of it so I turn off track power and went to inspect the loco and I found the engine some how threw the E-unit lever to the center of the slot! Does anyone know why this could happen?
The other was partially finished, somebody stopped working on it around 2004esque. I think that the holes, combined with new stuff, causes problems.
KRM Toy Trains FTW Thanks for the info and website CW! And here is another. Funny how they don't always aggree. http://www.postwarlionel.com/
Toy Trains FTW Thanks for the info and website CW!
Thanks for the info and website CW!
http://www.postwarlionel.com/
DANG that's a good website! Thanks for posting Mr. Burfle!
Oh, and the lack of Magne-Traction doesn't bother me, I run on nickle-silver track to avoid corrosion issues, the layout's in an outbuilding. That 2056 pulls like a Clydesdale anyway.
The 2056 is a one year only model (1952) that was made due to the Korean conflict. It lacks magnetraction. The 2046 is the same engine with magnetraction. It was made in 1950-51 and 1953.
Here is a link to a very good reference site: http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionelident.htm
Firelock76 You're very welcome T-T-FTW! Keep us posted, let us know how it all turns out. By the way, if you're getting into vintage Lionel, and this seems to be a good time to do it, they're pretty affordable now, keep your eyes peeled for the 2056 Hudson. It was made only in 1952, I've got one, it's slightly bigger than the 2055 models. It's a bruiser and can pull tree stumps out of the ground! My compliments, it's a pleasure to have someone acknowledge the advice given here. Many times the recipient drops out of sight leaving us to wonder about the "end of the story."
You're very welcome T-T-FTW! Keep us posted, let us know how it all turns out.
By the way, if you're getting into vintage Lionel, and this seems to be a good time to do it, they're pretty affordable now, keep your eyes peeled for the 2056 Hudson. It was made only in 1952, I've got one, it's slightly bigger than the 2055 models. It's a bruiser and can pull tree stumps out of the ground!
My compliments, it's a pleasure to have someone acknowledge the advice given here. Many times the recipient drops out of sight leaving us to wonder about the "end of the story."
ADCX Rob Toy Trains FTW Mine is really load and im not sure if this is normal, it sounds like a coffee grinder. The aluminum parallel-plate motors used with Magnetraction steamers are notoriously loud, and can be substantially quieted with the use of modern synthetic lubricants. Especially on these, a thin coating of Lucas Red 'N' Tacky #2 grease on all gears where they ride/face the motor plates will interrupt the harmonics and gear rattling. This, in addition to all other recommended lubrication, will smooth out the operation very nicely. Pay particular attention to the gear axles/studs with oil or grease as these are a known wear concern.
Toy Trains FTW Mine is really load and im not sure if this is normal, it sounds like a coffee grinder.
The aluminum parallel-plate motors used with Magnetraction steamers are notoriously loud, and can be substantially quieted with the use of modern synthetic lubricants. Especially on these, a thin coating of Lucas Red 'N' Tacky #2 grease on all gears where they ride/face the motor plates will interrupt the harmonics and gear rattling. This, in addition to all other recommended lubrication, will smooth out the operation very nicely. Pay particular attention to the gear axles/studs with oil or grease as these are a known wear concern.
Ok thanks EmdMike! I would recommend the 685! I like mine for the reason it was only made in 1953. The 2055 is awesome too!
Thanks for the info Pennystrains! Some of that info I have never heard of before! I will have to buy me one of those books! :-)
Thanks Firelock76! My 685 will run pretty good it can run at a reletivly slow speed. I think I will take it to my local train store and see what they say! Thanks again for the info!
I have aquired three 2055 in the last few months and love all 3 of them. also two 675 that some one else mentioned and love them also the 2055 I have had no problems with other than I need to replace a smoke unit in one. And one came with no trailing truck and tender hook but they all after cleaning run great.
thanks for the info all
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