Thanks Jon. I would of never even thought of it if it had not been for Buckeye starting this thread.
I checked the size of the letters on a Lionel Girder bridge and they are 5/8" tall so that is the size of decals I will be looking for the EJ&E letters to be.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Nice work Kevin! If we ever build another layout we will use these ideas, really looks good from you and Buckeye
Jon
So many roads, so little time.
Better yet Buckeye, something you see on most train bridges and is easy to get on line. Graffiti
Another idea is advertising decals on the bridge.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Buckeye Riveter Kevin... Looks great! I was thinking of putting a railroad decal on mine at one time. Your thoughts?
Kevin... Looks great! I was thinking of putting a railroad decal on mine at one time. Your thoughts?
Yes me to Buckeye. I am looking for some EJ&E decals now, just for that.
Some notes Buckeye. For glue I used Elmers wood glue on the wood blocks and as long as I was going to use clamps I used Loctite Power Grab construction interior glue on the plastics to the wood. What I like about the Locktite glue is it gives you more time to adjust than the CA glues. Also you can run a bead and it fills in the gaps. I have had good luck with the Locktite glue on other projects as well
Thanks again for the idea. I will update if I find some deacls to install.
Well here is my almost finished project thanks to the idea from Buckeye. The before pictures are back a bit in the thread and here is where I am today.
I worked some more on the girder bridge today and it is shaping up nice. I just used what was there already to mount the girder support to. The girder is under the track and will work okay like that. The track is not in the dead center of the support but I don't care because if I ever get around to my pocket scene under it it will be replaced so it is a lot better than it was and will work for now.
Buckeye, I only need to cover 22" so I should have no problems. I plan to get with it next week. AT some point I want to make a pocket scene there but not till the youngest grandson get a bit older.
Brent, My saw is a 12" I will have to see how many teeth it has. I know when I got the last blade I went for more than the old one had. I have to get the 1x1 to glue it to yet also.
Update: 11:30 Brent I checked and the saw has a 44 tooth on it now but I also have a 100 tooth one I will use when I cut the girder. Tks,
Kev - when I was working on the kitchen my GC had me get 80 tooth blades for ripping the ply. I found them on that rain forest named site by doing a search for 80 tooth 10 inch saw blade. Since my mitre saw and table saw are both 10" I bought 3 (one for each and a spare).
https://brentsandsusanspicutures.shutterfly.com/
Thanks for the info Buckeye, They did show up today along with the General 8701 set. I wil need to look around for the birch for the back. I may not even need it. I won't have any piers for now but great idea on hiding the wood.
KRM Buckeye, My Girder is going to show up today and I have two questions for you. Where did you get your birch and how many teeth are on your saw? I am thinking it has small teeth.
Buckeye, My Girder is going to show up today and I have two questions for you. Where did you get your birch and how many teeth are on your saw? I am thinking it has small teeth.
DJSpanky Buckeye Riveter DJSpanky Buckeye, if there's a portal there, does that mean you're gonna have a mountain (or something similar) that the train will be running through? Short answer: Yes Brevity is the spice of life. Wait.............that's not it....... Anyway, just realized that that portal isn't at the end of the curved bridge, which is why I asked that question. It's on the other side of those two truss bridges, and I can see the styrofoam set up to make the eventual mountain.
Buckeye Riveter DJSpanky Buckeye, if there's a portal there, does that mean you're gonna have a mountain (or something similar) that the train will be running through? Short answer: Yes
DJSpanky Buckeye, if there's a portal there, does that mean you're gonna have a mountain (or something similar) that the train will be running through?
Buckeye, if there's a portal there, does that mean you're gonna have a mountain (or something similar) that the train will be running through?
Short answer: Yes
Now you got it! Starting on the left of the photo is the curved bridge, then the two trusses and finally the thru girder bridge which leads to the tunnel portal into Tiny Chief Mountain.
The backside didn't need paint.
Adding the tunnel portal
Kev..... I used wood glue when I was glueing wood to wood. The girders were glued to the wood using CA and clamped.
DJ.....Thanks. One of the things I have learned is that you can hide things with scenery such as the abutment that really is high as a pier.
Kev, If your gap is only 22 inches wide then the plate girder should be plenty long enough with the tappered ends cut off. I used this under one of my bridges, but I used scrap Azek (dimmension plastic lumber) from Home Depot or Lowes. I just used the regular PVC Pipe Cement to join everything together, then painted it all a flat black (left over spray from another project).
Buckeye Riveter KRM Buckeye, What do those Girder sections measure with the fillets cut off the ends?? I think I will copy your lead for something I have that connects the two tables. Thanks for the great idea! Kev, I cut off just about 1 1/4 inches from each end. Did you see that there are girders on only one side of the bridge? The other side is plain jane birch wood cut to be 1 3/4 inch deep, the same as the girder. Visitors cannot see the other side of the bridge.
KRM Buckeye, What do those Girder sections measure with the fillets cut off the ends?? I think I will copy your lead for something I have that connects the two tables. Thanks for the great idea!
Buckeye,
What do those Girder sections measure with the fillets cut off the ends??
I think I will copy your lead for something I have that connects the two tables.
Thanks for the great idea!
Thanks again Buckeye, Here is where I will use it. The gap is about 22” across measuring in the arch so I hope one section will cover it. At some point I want to build a pocket to bridge the gap with some sort of scene but for now it is in the target range of the 18 month old grand-son so I think I will hold off. But what you did will make the crossing look much better for now than it is. I was wondering why in the photo it looked like there was wood and I wondered if you used it to glue to but now I know that was the back side. I see on the site they say use CA glue but you said you used wood glue. Was that on the girder sections and the birch sections?
Buckeye I think it was Me that missed who you got them from. Thanks!! Sucks getting old.
stuartmit Just found this thread--what great work! Art I should say! Going way back, I gather you found the girders flexible enought to curve--is that correct? You commented about laying out the deck for the possibility that you whould have to use the girders straight, if needed, but I do see they were installed curved. Is that curving process at all tricky or just clamp 'em and glue 'em?
Just found this thread--what great work! Art I should say! Going way back, I gather you found the girders flexible enought to curve--is that correct? You commented about laying out the deck for the possibility that you whould have to use the girders straight, if needed, but I do see they were installed curved. Is that curving process at all tricky or just clamp 'em and glue 'em?
KRM Great work Buckeye. What part number are the Woodland Scenics girders????
Great work Buckeye. What part number are the Woodland Scenics girders????
stuartmit I gather you found the girders flexible enought to curve--is that correct? You commented about laying out the deck for the possibility that you whould have to use the girders straight, if needed, but I do see they were installed curved. Is that curving process at all tricky or just clamp 'em and glue 'em?
I gather you found the girders flexible enought to curve--is that correct? You commented about laying out the deck for the possibility that you whould have to use the girders straight, if needed, but I do see they were installed curved. Is that curving process at all tricky or just clamp 'em and glue 'em?
The bridge was installed and it was a tight fit.
I still need install a pier extension and paint the backside of the exisiting pier
on this end and do some touch up.
Now I will continue to work this corner for scenery. I am thinking of putting a bucket truck under the bridge so the bridge inspectors can get to the bearings and structural steel. I also need some birds to set on the bottom flange and poop all over the inspectors.
Yeah, I guess there is a difference! You really have a great looking layout! Should be in CTT magazine!
Don
Don....As the train leaves the truss bridge on the left end, there is a curve. The new bridge will be on that curve where those two Lionel girders are located in the photo below. Incidently this photo is really old.
You can see the corner of the station in the photo above and the same corner in the photo below. Just a tad of difference.
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