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Sound Activation

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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Saturday, October 29, 2011 5:21 PM

What was the problem when it didn't work?

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Posted by srguy on Saturday, October 29, 2011 12:00 PM

Got it working this morning!!!

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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Friday, October 7, 2011 2:10 PM

I used 5 diodes for each leg, and my push buttons short out four of them.  Works fine for both PW and modern whistles and bells.

 

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Posted by srguy on Friday, October 7, 2011 9:49 AM

I couldn't access those links ... I used the diagram from stienie's facebook link in this discussion however I only used 5 rectifiers not 7 ... could that be the problem?? I'll try to post a picture over the weekend.

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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Thursday, October 6, 2011 7:45 PM

Here's a picture of mine with the two buttons.

 

 

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Posted by lionelsoni on Thursday, October 6, 2011 6:31 PM

Here is a link to the original topic:  http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/p/185196/2030793.aspx#2030793

 

Bob Nelson

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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Thursday, October 6, 2011 2:39 PM

How about a wiring diagram for what you have?  I built one of these, worked fine.  I used this circuit, and I also added an additional switch across all but one of the diodes on the other side.  This makes it a universal horn/bell switch, it'll do either.

 

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Posted by srguy on Thursday, October 6, 2011 9:09 AM

Well, I finally got around to putting together a "homemade" sound activation assembly per steinie's instructions. In theory it should work but it doesn't!! Using the specified parts from Radio Shack I assembled according to instructions however I did not use the pushbutton but touched the two wires together instead (should work as well). I tried both the bell and horn function wiring  and all I got was brighter lights in the engine cab. I used 5 rectifiers per steinie ..... any thoughts on what's happening???

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Posted by Boxcar Bill on Friday, May 13, 2011 6:23 PM

They are $13.00 here http://www.mttponline.com/#!

 

Bill

Factory Trained Lionel Service Tech.
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Posted by steinie on Friday, May 13, 2011 10:59 AM
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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, May 13, 2011 8:56 AM

Bob Nelson

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Posted by srguy on Friday, May 13, 2011 8:36 AM

That's great info ... Will it work on a Williams Truebalst??? My Lionel button died.  I've never done anything like this.  I located the parts on RS website ... are the diodes soldered end to end?? Would you have a scketch or photo??

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Posted by steinie on Friday, May 13, 2011 8:33 AM
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Posted by steinie on Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:05 PM

I have built two of these, one for bell and one for whistle. You can use Radio Shack parts to make it. Diodes are 276-1661 and the switch, must be NC type, 275-1548. I did not make the protection part, so these are the only parts needed. You can use 4 diodes in series insted of the 6 called for, on modern trains. So the cost was about $3.50 for each. Not bad, I did not need a box, just put them under my control panel. No circuit board is needed. Just solder the diodes together and put the switch across the single diode and you are done.

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Posted by cjmeyers on Thursday, May 12, 2011 11:58 AM

You could try to build your own:

http://www.slsprr.net/features/SoundBlkProtect.htm

But the cost of parts and labor might come close to just buying one.

Regards,
CJ Meyers
Member TCA

 

 

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Sound Activation
Posted by srguy on Thursday, May 12, 2011 8:37 AM

Are there any inexpensive alternatives to the Lionel 6-5906 sound activation button??  It appears that $30 is the going price for these things.

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