Okay, you have probably done this already. But, use a dremel type tool & clean inside the female ends of the track. Make sure the pins are clean. Reassemble & use no less than 14 gauge wire to run to the slow spots.
I have used some pretty dirty 027 tubular from ebay & my old stuff from 50+ years ago and it works okay. I cleaned the outside of the track with my Dremel tool with wire brush - away from the layout to avoid the magnatraction picking up wires - & the inside with another attachment. It all works very well.
One thing about the fast track; it is easier, in my never to be humble opinion, to adapt it for isolated blocks. Other than that, I love my old 027 tubular.
Charlie
I've seen specialty 'track pliers' that have a contour to re-shape tubelar rails. I think it might have been in a Micro-Mark catalog. I haven't gotten one of these catalogs in a long time, so I don't know if they still carry them.
I've also read about people cleaning the inside of the tubular rails using an appropiately sized drill bit - one that is a slip fit into the rail.
Good luck.
The simplest thing to do may be to add locon's at the slow spots.
The wire is all ready going past correct?
You ran feeder wire parallel to the track didn't you? If you make it a complete loop you will reduce voltage drop in the wire.
Banks, Proud member of the OTTS TCA 12-67310
Than it worked cool... your sanity is saved, now install feeders at a minimum of 14 AWG every 3 to 4 feet and you will have one smooth running train.
Ok, here is a newbie question about adding feeders. I have my lockons installed every 6 feet around the track. My transformer doesn't have the ability to attach feeder wires directly to it. The way I'm doing it is by twisting a feeder wire to the transformer wires then attaching to the main lockon then run it to the second, then the third then fourth and so on. Like a daisy chain. Is that the correct way? Because the train still runs slow and fast in the same spots...
Maybe I need a little tutorial on wiring feeders....
I agree that it's a track problem, but mechanical, not electrical. If the problem were bad connections in the track, the voltage at the transformer would have risen when the train passed the slow spots, because the track resistance in series with the locomotive would have caused the train to draw less current. This fits in with the fact that your repeated efforts to improve the track conductivity by tightening, adding feeders, and swapping track sections around, have not affected where the slowdowns happen.
The most likely mechanical problem is curves, which are well known to slow toy trains down. It might be compounded by wheels that are out of gauge (too wide), which exacerbates the binding in curves. So it would be good to check locomotive and cars individually to see whether there is a particular troublemaker. But, failing to find such a culprit, you may just have to live with the situation.
I too have an around-the-walls loop, that I would like to run unattended; but it's tricky to find a setting that's not too fast in the tangents but doesn't stall in the curves.
As for feeders, if you still need them, run two 14-AWG-minimum wires in a complete loop around the room. At each lockon, make two connections of three wires each, the 14-AWG wires in each direction and a short piece of the heaviest wire that your lockon will accept, probably 16 or 18 AWG. Make another two connections at the transformer, but each of three 14-AWG wires, with the third wire going to the transformer. I recommend wire nuts for the connections.
Bob Nelson
Thanks for all the advice. I pretty much give up. Hahaha!
The train runs good enough to be left un-attended. On the one fast curve it almost de-rails, but I have the speed set just right. I just have to teach my son how to achieve that settting because he loves to de-rail. I built nice fences on the curves to keep the loco from hitting the walls.
I learned a lot from your tips though....
Thanks!!
I have the Fastrack and have the same issue. I used to run Super O without a problem. My layout is 6X12 so it isn't large. Very frustrating.
If you follow the directions I posted long ago on this thread, you will have good connections between track sections. If you do what you have been doing, squeezing the open end of the rails, you will never get good connections. I have been splaying the pins for several years, and for a layout the size of yours, I never have a problem with poor connections.
Bob (lionelsoni), Servoguy and all:
I have often said that I learn something new about trains everyday.
This particular discussion of practical and technical information has been a real pleasure to read.
It's a great hobby. Thanks for sharing.
lionelsoni As for feeders, if you still need them, run two 14-AWG-minimum wires in a complete loop around the room. At each lockon, make two connections of three wires each, the 14-AWG wires in each direction and a short piece of the heaviest wire that your lockon will accept, probably 16 or 18 AWG. Make another two connections at the transformer, but each of three 14-AWG wires, with the third wire going to the transformer. I recommend wire nuts for the connections.
While on the topic of feeders, a question I've always been curious about. I've always run feeders of power only - never extra grounds - and that seems to do the trick. With two ground rails interconnected hundreds of times by the ties, I've always assumed that the current would find its own very efficient way back to the transformer. I'm curious, though - does anyone also run ground feeders? Perhaps I'll try this afternoon and see if I can observe / measure a difference...
IT consultant by day, 3rd generation Lionel guy (raising a 3YO 4th generation Lionel Lil' Man) by night in the suburbs of the greatest city in the world - Chicago. Home of the ever-changing Illinois Concretus Ry.
Hi on the power bus feeders do you run a positive and a negative to section. Or just a positive?
Mazz
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