Regarding replacement parts, there are a ton of sources, but here are a couple to start with. When you do a search on each website under the replacemtnt parts option, type 2020 and you should get a whole list of what parts they have in stock.
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
I agree with Jim.. Go very light with the amount of dishwashing detergent and luke warm with the water. Don't soak the shell too long or you may lose paint. I used cotton Q-tips on the nooks and crannies..
If you are dissatisfied with the first pass at washing the shell, repeat.
Armor all for car interiors, exterior trim, or tires? This product is silicone based and should bring the shine up but tends to leave a greasy residue. You can get them in disposable wipes. So go light on that on the application and then wipe with a soft cotton t-shirt.
Just an update for those following along. I took the 2020 and tender to my LHS today and paid a modest 1 hr. labor fee for them to properly lube it and make sure it was in good running order. The tech and store owner were shocked at how well it seemed to run...the bulb still shone and even smoked when a little fluid was added! We placed it on the layout in the middle of the store (I don't currently have one set up at home) that is connected to a modern ZW transformer and had it pull a NYC Flyer passenger consist around the track a few times. Ran great...with one catch: the tender wouldn't stop whistling. The repairman (who shall from here on out be referred to as "Bob"...because that's his name) tinkered with it for awhile, then placed it back on the loop and couldn't get it to whistle at all. As soon as he took it back to his workshop-nook and placed it on his bench connected to a post-war KW, it worked just fine and whistled on demand. He thinks that the less sophisticated mechanisms might not like the electronically controlled transformers and suggested I get a used post-war variety. Anyone ever come across this?
The other issue we encountered is that the engine won't run in reverse. Seems to bind up as soon as it tries to roll backwards. Bob thought it was the cam on the front drive wheel that triggers the smoke flapper catching on something when it goes in reverse, but that didn't seem to be the case. As it was getting close to shop closing, I decided to take the set home and work on the cleanup. Bob suggested some penetrating oil to remove the mildew from the shell, but it didn't seem to work very well on the plastic of the tender when he showed me how to apply it. I'll take it slowly when I begin the cleanup as to not remove any paint that I can avoid removing, but it was really great seeing it run around a loop today with very few difficulties. The front trucks looked a little loose as it took the curves, but I guess they needed to have a lot of side-to-side leeway in order to negotiate O-27 track.
Anyhow, I'll continue to post updates. Thanks to all for your input and feedback.
I have used WD-40 to remove mildew from leather upholstery in cars. It might work for you.
I assume you set the E unit upright before you ran the train?
One way to find out where things are binding is to try to turn the drive wheels and back drive the motor. If the engine is binding in one direction, you will not be able to turn the drive wheels in the OPPOSITE direction. I believe the loco has a worm shaft driving the wheels. If one of the thrust bearings for this shaft is not lubed or is missing, you will not be able to turn the wheels in one direction.
Bruce Baker
That is a nice looking locomotive. I agree with the others - get it tuned up and running before deciding what else you want to do with it.
If you think you might repaint in the future, don't use products with silicone in them on it. The silicone will give you fits with the paint.
PhillyDuke He thinks that the less sophisticated mechanisms might not like the electronically controlled transformers and suggested I get a used post-war variety. Anyone ever come across this?
No. My Postwar ZW doesn't have a Bell button. To test bells, I had to use the 1033, also a "real" transformer, but was made with the horn diode in backwards. When I added a "TMCC" Powermaster (71-28867-250) and CAB1 remote, both bells and whistles work. That setup is a lot less sophisticated than the newer electronic controlers, and works great with Postwar engines. The name TMCC is very confusing to me. It is used to describe this unsophisticated setup, AND the system by the same name which does lots more IF you buy a "TMCC equipped engine, and leave the track voltage set at ~18vac continuously. (Light bulbs hate that).
As for the cleaning, I have heard of several methods. Dawn dish soap is suggested with a tooth brush and warm water....do NOT use over decals/numbers. Also, some have used lighter fluid. Check on a small area out of the way first. Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Bob.M PhillyDuke He thinks that the less sophisticated mechanisms might not like the electronically controlled transformers and suggested I get a used post-war variety. Anyone ever come across this? No. My Postwar ZW doesn't have a Bell button. To test bells, I had to use the 1033, also a "real" transformer, but was made with the horn diode in backwards. When I added a "TMCC" Powermaster (71-28867-250) and CAB1 remote, both bells and whistles work. That setup is a lot less sophisticated than the newer electronic controlers, and works great with Postwar engines. The name TMCC is very confusing to me. It is used to describe this unsophisticated setup, AND the system by the same name which does lots more IF you buy a "TMCC equipped engine, and leave the track voltage set at ~18vac continuously. (Light bulbs hate that).
Because I run strictly "conventional" I don't ordinarily respond to any post that discusses TMCC or any of the other modern systems or devices, but I may be able to clear up a couple of things.
The post-war ZW and the 1033 are both "real transformers," to use lionelsoni's terms, but they are wired/labeled differently. On the ZW, the A terminal should normally be connected to the center rail, and U to the outer one. With the 1033, the U terminal should normally be connected to the center rail, and the A terminal to an outer rail. But at the beginners' level it really doesn't matter. The whistle/horn should work no matter how you hook it up. There were no operating bells in those days.
With the advent of locos that have BOTH horn/whistles AND bells, the polarity (which wire you connect to the center rail) DOES make a difference. If you do it the above way you should get whistle or horn, if you do it the opposite way you will get bell. To get both (one or the other at a time, generally) you need to add something like a Lionel Sound Activation Button, 6-5906, or even TWO of them. I normally don't recommend running modern sound systems straight off of a post-war transformer., especially the PW ZW which can produce 25 volts or more when the whistle/horn lever is pressed.
As far as running anything off any transformer that will put out 18 -- 24* volts continuously, you should probably take out the original bulbs and replace them with ones rated for 24 volts, or power them by a separate transformer (or at least a different terminal) from the one that powers the track, and always keep the voltage down a bit. Bob "lionelsoni" Nelson has discussed this issue recently. Check "Search Community."
* The old Lionel type Z (not ZW) can do 24 volts easily do this.
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The best way I found out of getting mildew of i wipe it with a damp cotten cloth like a old t-shirt. Them I would just get black shoe polish (the paste kind) and use that on it. It would cover up small blemishes, and it seems to keep any more mildew from formng. I have used the polish on most of my cast engines.
PhillyDukeOK, any suggestions for cleaning the tender and boiler shell of the mildew? I spoke with Jim and he suggested dishwashing liquid, water, and a small paintbrush...perhaps some armor all if it was needed. Other ideas if that doesn't work?
After I clean an engine, I use Lemon Pledge furniture polish to shine up my old postwar trains. Works great, and doesn't leave a greasy residue, and I use cotton swabs in all the nooks and crannys. Takes time, but its worth the effort, and makes them look almost like new. You are one lucky dude, that engine is rare.
Give me steam locomotives or give me DEATH!
Berkshire Junction, bringing fourth the cry of the Iron Horse since 1900.
I've been using Pledge on my die cast locos and plastic diesel shells since about 1960. No greasy residue, brings the gloss up, and best of all.......the paints has held up.
Washing was with a very mild dish soap/lukewarm water solution. Midew is his problem, though.
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