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My Stud Rail track

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  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Monday, September 20, 2010 4:34 PM

I don't have any experience with Maerklin pukos, but I have read descriptions that have them rising level, as you say, with the turnout rails and ones that say they get above the rails.  In any case, it seems to me that the very slight additional rise that you would need to clear the rails could obviate a bunch of rail gapping and insulating.

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • 624 posts
Posted by fredswain on Monday, September 20, 2010 5:33 PM

The studs on mine mimic theirs in that the studs do rise. They have to as they are normally well below rail height just above tie level. When you get to a switch you need to raise the studs so that the slider can pass across the running rail. This doesn't mean that it has to rise above rail level. Just equal to it. That's how theirs and mine both work. The slider slides right across the running rail. Just like normal 3 rail switches, those rails are unpowered. There is no wiring complexity as it is still 3 rail and still works exactly like a 3 rail switch does. I have seen all 3 types of Marklin switches and I have yet to see one that has the studs rising above rail level. They all rise up to it.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: Southwest Georgia
  • 5,028 posts
Posted by dwiemer on Monday, September 20, 2010 6:37 PM

While most of my layout is done, I would be interested in a smaller area using such a system.  Of course, I 'd like to figure on motive power that fits into my style (something like a NYC hudson).  That would be great.  I will check on your site from time to time.

Dennis

TCA#09-63805

 

Charter BTTs.jpg

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